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UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Controls and Electrical => Topic started by: komelika on January 26, 2013, 07:29:07 AM
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Ok, so I'm getting organized and labeling everything in my harness and I have a few questions to start with probably a few more to follow. I know most of you run the Busa, but I'm running the GSX-R 1000.
1. The 1000 runs the EXCVA valve in the mid pipe, which controls back pressure. This ties into, or shares power from the ECM with the AP sensor, the coolant temp sensor, the IAPETUS sensor, the IAT sensor. It would be easy enough to figure out a resistor value for wide open, but what do I lose in performance at cooler temps?
2. Is there a source for the plug on the back of the speedo cluster? I bought a 2003 headlamp harness assuming it would work with the 2004 since the schematic covers both years. No dice, it won't marry the main harness because the connectors are different. I'd rather resale it instead of scavenging the plug for $40.
3. Am I missing something? Did Suzuki just hard wire all lights without relays? Where should I use relays not included with the factory wiring?
4. Basic strategy question. Should I plug all applicable plugs in, strip the loom, reroute as necessary, lengthen, and re-tape the harness? Seems to be the easiest option, this way I can completely eliminate useless wires instead of dead ending them in the loom.
Thanks for any input!
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1. I don't know. I deleted that stuff with the turbo.
2. No source anywhere that I know of.Damn sure is not for the busa. bs1
3.Use relays for any higher amp devices. No need for low amp stuff.
4.IMO,yes.
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My Yamaha R1 motor had an exhaust valve. Looked in the repair manual for normal ohms at operating and picked up a resistor from radio shack. Ran great. There was some place online selling a valve delete kit for $75 but was just a neatly packaged resistor.
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It could be worse, you could have a Goldwing harness.........
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi55.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg122%2Fbdkw1%2Fbuggy%2FDSC00713-1.jpg&hash=6acbfdd97d238123bbab627dc36f67553a8b7ada)
But yes to #4, strip it and remove all non used wires.
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damn gold wing harness looks like a car harness!!! nuts.
When I was doing my 03 gsxr600 harness. I got a nice large full color digram. Tracked what i needed to use and extended those. re routed longer items to be shorter for the places i needed. And i didnt remove sections I didnt need, because I had done that with the previous engine & harness and it just took longer and really didnt clean it up much like I had hoped.
be careful and thoughtfull. recheck everything as your doing it. youll be ok!
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don't know about the gsxr 1k but on a 929rr honda i removed that valve and wound up putting it back in to run n/a, reason was it shaved 2k rpm off take off on bottom end. can't say i felt any power increase at higher rpm w/o it either but bottom end it really made a diff with the exup valve.
I like to clean the harness's but you do not have to. otherwise what fabbr said.
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It's going pretty good, just haven't had a ton of time. I got most of the wiring extended. I built my dash yesterday and it turned out pretty nice. I ran three on/off switches with indicator lights. One for main power, one for lights and one for spare.
Question: do you guys run a start button and a kill button or just use the main power switch to kill engine? I'm not sure if killing ECM power while running can be problematic. Thanks
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I run main power on a key, start button, and I run an engine/fuel pump kill switch very close to my left hand on the dash. Always have a backup IMO. Wired in just like factory, no problems. Lots of BS involved with trying to use an OFF/ON/Start keyswitch to fire the motor, at least with Suzuki..
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The 04 GSXR has 4 wires to ignition. On requires Red and Orange to be made for getting power to the fuse block and the O/Y and Brown to be made to power the ECM and rear combo light. I don't have a factory ignition switch/key with my harness since it didn't come with my kit. I have a handful of SPST toggles. Any issues with running two toggles to substitute the ignition switch? I can throw a battery cutoff switch in for "security". I don't know if a universal switch would do what I need and I don't want to spend $100 or more on a used Suzuki switch. Suggestions?
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Im looking at a Busa diagram, but is O/Y-Brown running power to the ECU or is it pulling to ground? Busa runs to ground which I think I remember soldering together and that was that. I don't see an issue running two switches if need be. I would have to dig back through my notes and the rats nest to know for sure what I did.
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The 1000 diagram shows O/Y to the ECM and Br splitting to go to positive on fuse block and then to rear combo light and license plate.
You're right. It looks like O/Y is pulling power from ECM. I assumed it was supplying power to the ECM, but that would mean the brake light and license plate would always be hot since the ground isn't switched.
So O/Y is switched to supply + to the fuse block. So that leads to another question. I think I know the answer, but I want to make sure.
Is the +/- on the fuse block only used for the flasher? It doesn't break down further than that in the diagram, but I assume it is since - supplies power to the signals. If + has no other function then I can just abandon O/Y and brown since I don't need the combo light or signals, right? I plan on using a fused circuit for my always on amber light.
Thanks!
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Hmmmm..Don't know about the flashers without seeing the diagram.. If you are going to use your own circuit you should be able to proceed without it if it is only powering the flasher/lights
Do you have a downloaded wiring diagram you are using or the GSXR service manual?
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This is the diagram I'm using:
http://www.factorypro.com/wire_diagrams/Suzuki,gsxr1000,,0304-pdf.pdf (http://www.factorypro.com/wire_diagrams/Suzuki,gsxr1000,,0304-pdf.pdf)
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Just bring it to LS Oklahoma in 5 wk. I'm a master of bringing untested unfinished ride across country to play. Well have you riden by sundown! Lol
I like to make it run before I cut the harness. Then Do away with wires and pin if you want for things I'm not running thru factory harness. Extend wires few at time and checking to make sure shell fire off occasionally. Not sure on year u have but they started imobilizer keys on some makes mid 2000's.
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Just bring it to LS Oklahoma in 5 wk. I'm a master of bringing untested unfinished ride across country to play. Well have you riden by sundown! Lol
I like to make it run before I cut the harness. Then Do away with wires and pin if you want for things I'm not running thru factory harness. Extend wires few at time and checking to make sure shell fire off occasionally. Not sure on year u have but they started imobilizer keys on some makes mid 2000's.
If I ever do this again I will follow your advice. It'll run! It better! LOL
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This is the diagram I'm using:
http://www.factorypro.com/wire_diagrams/Suzuki,gsxr1000,,0304-pdf.pdf (http://www.factorypro.com/wire_diagrams/Suzuki,gsxr1000,,0304-pdf.pdf)
I see it the way you do! "Park" on the ignition switch is the giveaway, ties back into main power wire to light up the tail light.
That's a fun PDF to try and follow zoomed in to trace the wires! thumb down
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A color diagram is worth every $$$. Print it off on a larger paper, 11"x17" or poster board. And soldier and heat shrink your connections!
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I have the diagram laminated on 11x17" in my garage. I just stare at the digital diagram when I'm slow at work.
All of my connections are soldered and heat shrunk. I'm dying to get the wiring done! I'll have Thursday and Friday afternoon in the garage so I should be able to get the oil and cooling lines ready so it is safe to turn the engine over. Then I'll concentrate on the remainder of the wiring. To do list is getting smaller! I wish I had a solid week in the garage to get it done before Cinco De Baja in May. Who knows, maybe the stars will line up!
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I have 2 busa schematics 24"x36". Laminated like you have. Gotta love Staples for something!!!!
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Yup! Just don't forget to move it away from welding area. thumb down
No holes, just a little slag. ;D
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TIG for me,no slag,no sparks. No problem.
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Showoff!
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Showoff!
LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO
So, is it running yet?
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Yep, it's running circles in my brain. Sounds good though!
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rofl rofl Just wait til the two voices start argueing with ea other over who drives first. Then you'll need a second rail so they can race. Looser buys!
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NOW you understand why I'm building the second car for the toybox.
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The good news is I hooked up the battery and it didn't let all the smoke out of the wiring harness! It cranks over so the motor isn't locked up. The bad news is I'm getting a fault indication. For some reason I can't get it into dealer mode to check the code, but I think I have it figured out.
I don't have a signal from the ECM to the fuel pump relay. I attached the diagram earlier in this thread if you can follow me. Everything else is there. I have 12v on the R/Bl and I have 12v on the O/W. I have nothing on the Y/B to trigger the relay. I have continuity on Y/B from the relay plug to the ECM plug. So my question is, is there any reason other than a bad ECM that would keep the fuel pump signal from being there? All the fuses are good.
Thanks
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Called dealer service department. They think its a bad ECM. When an ECM fails is it usually catastrophic resulting in total failure or is it possible that my fuel circuit is the only bad leg?
I can switch the signal wire to ground and trigger my fuel pump relay, which also powers my injectors. So assuming the injector timing isn't fubar in the ECM then it will run as normal, right?
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If you've not, I'd join up some of the GSXR forums. Theres usually couple good elec guys on those that know the wiring inside and out.
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It has a tip over switch and a kickstand switch? You defeated both of those? It will make it act just like you describe and throw a fault.
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The only thing that makes me wonder if it's the ECU is that you can't get the codes.
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Snap! To tip over sensor is hooked up. Kickstand switch is missing. Damnit! Why didn't I think of that? I'll look up the resistor needed to eliminate the kickstand switch.
Not sure on the dealer mode. I grounded the w/r wire from the ECM and nothing.
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Oh wait, TO sensor needs a resistor, kickstand just needs to be shorted, right?
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Jumped side stand... No dice. Still a possibility that my TO sensor is bad. I'll wire it with resistors and cross my fingers. If that doesn't do it then that leaves the ECM. Most likely the ECM since it won't go into dealer mode as Lance pointed out.
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KO should just hook together. TO senser if you have usually just mount level temp, and also clutch switch. Clutch usually wont let it turn over and not cut fuel. See if you can find a good ecm to try.
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Just ordered one on eBay. Fingers crossed.
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Curious, have you checked the Engine Stop switch wiring? That would kill the pump and the coils.
If not I would jump the fuel relay and fire it, try and eliminate the stuff in question. ECU usually have to take one hell of a whollop or electrocution to make em FUBAR
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Interesting progress. I figured out dealer mode. It helps to ground it with a ground wire that isn't open! One fault code is 46, which is the excva valve, no problem. The other one is 42, ignition switch signal, which means the ignition switch signall is not inputting to ECM. So I'm tracing my diagram to figure out where this signal could be coming from. Turns out there is a o/g signal wire to the ECM coming off the o/w wire going to the fuel pump relay. No problem, I'll check continuity from relay to ECM, problem, there is no o/g at the ECM!
I don't have any missing wires either. It just doesn't exist in this harness. WTF?
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Mother effer, this is frustrating. The wire is mislabeled in the diagram. It is o/w and it is there. Time to step away and drink a beer or ten! I need a fresh set of of eyes next weekend. I think I'm the problem and I'm not seeing a mistake I made somewhere.
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I tore my hair out the first couple of times . I'd like to help but I have very little hair left as it is. Can't handle the shear frustration at the moment. You guys are on the righjt track tho and enemy is right about the ecm. I bought 2 before i found the 64K resistor that is needed and NOT in the wiring diagram,anywhere. On a busa you need it if not using the bike ignition switch. Theft deterrent.Just connecting the wires will not work. The ecm has to see the resistance. I forget,are you running a busa?
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No, GSX-R1000. Interesting, wonder if it is the same. Nothing looks wrong in the wiring.
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Do you have a factory IGN switch? If so check resistance across appropriate terminals. See if any have more than a few ohms.
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On a busa ,I think anything in the range of 40K-100K is needed or approximately in that range. So there should be something like that if the 1000 is like a busa. I don't know if that is the case or not though. I used,I think,60K. Just a 15 cent radio shack item.
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My kit didn't come with handlebar switches or ignition. I'm subbing the ignition with a spst toggle for the 12v circuit and a spst toggle for the stop/start switch. I have a momentary push button for the clutch and another one for the start. I eliminated the lighting circuit from the ignition, but I'm wondering if that is somehow tripping me up.
The FI code key lists voltages needed for certain signals and it doesn't list anything as far as voltage for the ignition signal code I am getting.
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Post the question on some og the gsxr forums . I'm thinking www.hayabusa.org might be able to help you out.
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Cool, thanks. Soccer games and birthday parties are just what I need right now. I'll get a fresh set of eyes on it next week.
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What are the odds of having a bad ECM, ordering another ECM on eBay and it turning out bad and giving the same fault code? Pretty slim, right?
I just checked every wire from my ECM and there is no open wire anywhere.The ECM isn't sending an ignition signal. It won't even fire if I pour gas in the carbs. Both ECMs are missing 12v on the lighting circuit too. Both ECMs have damage in the same general area. The original ECM has a cracked plug housing and the eBay ECM has a hole in the box next to that same plug.
The bad news is there are no 03-04 ECMs on eBay so I can't even check that theory. Anyone happen to have a 2003-2004 GSX-R1000 ECM floating around? Fook, this is frustrating!
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You're lucky!!!! I didnt have a single problem when I did my wiring. lol. All I can say is make sure you're putting the right resistor on the theft deterant wires, and quadruple check every wire is going to the right spot. I hashed over every inch of wiring and where I was running them many many times before I tried to start it. When the time came, wiring was perfect. GOOD LUCK!!
PS- my first engine I had in my buggy it wasnt wanting to fire at first.. I found a bad ground to the coil packs, a wire was slightly loose in the connector.. crimped it tight and fired right up.
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Got it!!!! Running like a champ!
Turns out, Suzuki's diagram is misleading to hide a security feature. The O/Y that appears to power lights is actually hooked to 12v with a 100 ohm resistor. That is the ignition signal the ECM was missing.
Now, why isn't my fan coming on. It wouldn't be the same if I didn't have something to troubleshoot.
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Temp switch ordered. The fan works properly when I jump the leads at the switch. Have to find another IAP sensor as well. The tube is broken on the original one. I think it was bad anyway, the engine stalls and won't start when the tube is plugged into the sensor. I had ordered one on eBay for $18 and didn't notice they sent the wrong part (not the one pictured) until it was too late to do anything about it. Hoping they exchange it. We'll see. Need to get my mufflers finished before my neighbors toss me out of the neighborhood.