The yoke's on me....

[JimmieD]

Hi y'all!

Plans are for a small 3 wheeler, buggy type chassis. Going for 2 front/1 rear layout for stability, handling & traction. I have everything designed & drawn up, even several alternative plans. One thing I'm stuck on is the front axle yokes & u-joints.

I've checked everywhere I can imagine on the net for yokes & joints, generally of the agricultural implement variety. Of course I need hi-speed type, and something that can handle around 100 hp, possibly 150 ft lbs torque continuous, plus some shock loads.

Looking at 1-1/2" axles so that's the bore needed on yokes. I do not want to use automotive double-cardan CV joints on this project. I have posted on other boards but can't seem to break through a universal opinion that I MUST use CV joints & axles for any hope of success. Don't want to.

Off the top of my head I'm thinking 1,000-1,250 rpm joints? Figuring roughly 4:1 final drive ratio will give me the road speeds I want, and I'm building a gear splitter for a Hi-Lo range drive after a 6 speed close ratio box.

From the above: any suggestions for some known good yokes & joints?

So far I can't get any in depth descriptions of what's offered at the tractor shops I checked, so too iffy to toss out the money.

Thanks for any assist on this...

JimmieD

[Wyattboche]

Post some pics of the 3 wheel monster

[Dunebound69]

You need to talk to Dsrace or enemy, they have u-joints in the rear. Not real sure how they will like compound angles (steering and travel) in a buggy. This is going to be interesting to see. Dare to be different!

[JimmieD]

Thanks, guys!!

This thing hasn't even had the MIG plugged in yet, all on paper, plus some of the parts, but very soon. At least 100 drawings, want to get it right.

This design will have 2 wheels steering in front, 1 wheel in rear, so that where I need yokes & uni's.

There was a problem with cycle type 3 wheelers flipping over but that appears to be from the high center of gravity, rider upright, short wheelbase, narrow track width, huge baloon tires etc. etc.

If you look at the great old Morgan 3 wheelers you see a car that had phenomenal handling, a top winning rally & hill climb car of the times. Many groups & people tried to get them disqualified because not 4 wheels, just because they couldn't beat them. So such a design can handle, & very well.

This one will be a buggy type, barely 2 seater, for off-road but also street legal, to get to & from the wilderness. Should work, don't see why not, just need those joints. Thanks!

.

[fabr]

Just use non plunging cv's from a standard front wheel drive setup and problem solved.Simple.

[artie on edge]

Thanks, guys!!

This thing hasn't even had the MIG plugged in yet, all on paper, plus some of the parts, but very soon. At least 100 drawings, want to get it right.

This design will have 2 wheels steering in front, 1 wheel in rear, so that where I need yokes & uni's.

There was a problem with cycle type 3 wheelers flipping over but that appears to be from the high center of gravity, rider upright, short wheelbase, narrow track width, huge baloon tires etc. etc.

If you look at the great old Morgan 3 wheelers you see a car that had phenomenal handling, a top winning rally & hill climb car of the times. Many groups & people tried to get them disqualified because not 4 wheels, just because they couldn't beat them. So such a design can handle, & very well.

This one will be a buggy type, barely 2 seater, for off-road but also street legal, to get to & from the wilderness. Should work, don't see why not, just need those joints. Thanks!

.

G'day mate, the morgan worked well, due in part to its very low centre of gravity, which you correctly identify in your post. Thats where (IMO) you are going to run into trouble, a low centre of gravity and sufficient ground clearance for off road use would seem to be difficult to obtain.

If you're using front wheel drive, then shafts and uprights for this type of setup are located in every junkyard around so I think that will be the least of your issues.

If you are using rear wheel drive I will be very interested in how you set it up and get drive to the rear as I am thinking you will be locating the engine much like in the Morgan???

Good luck, for those here who dont know what a Morgan is.. old English 3 wheeler mostly using JAP engines (engine created by J. A. Prestwich in the early 30's).

[JimmieD]

Wow, WOW WOW! Thanks, Artie my friend, breakin my heart there! What an absolutely gorgeous little Morgy! Outstanding!

Yes, going front engine, just aft of the front axle, 6 speed close ratio syncho'd gearbox behind that, chained forward. Fabbing up a gear splitter for Hi-Lo range, shiftable on the fly. Independent front suspension [only because of difficulties of axle movement & chain/sprocket orientation with live axle]. Limited slip front, plus mechanical full-locker, shift on the fly. Rear wheel is driven too.

I've priced out the needs in junkyard front suspension, still kinda pricey here. Also I'm limited to using a complete factory setup mostly, so everybody plays together nice. Also seeing that later replacement might require buying parts store stuff, so prices go up there.

I live in a very remote area & the yards are like 100+ miles away. So can't just run back & forth 'til I get the right parts thrown together, if they have them?

Preferring to fab up everything here at home. Located axle shafting at good prices, then make up my hubs, bearing carriers, spindles, etc. Axle center bolted solid, with swing arms, plus locating links & coil-over shocks.

This thing will fall somewhere between go-kart & dune buggy, far more buggy though. If I can find good yokes & u-joints that can handle a little horspower, about 30+ and the rpms, I think the rest will be fairly easy.

I have a front wheel drive Dodge Omni here so I've checked out factory stuff. That one is going to get built into a full time road buggy, but this other is for 90% offroad. Not doing racing, dunes, big whoops & jumps, so I figure my 12"-14" of ground clearance should do fine.
 
That's about it for the plan, and it all looks good on paper hah! Just need those darned yokes & joints. I e-mailed Enemy, hopefully he will have a suggestion.

Thanks, guys!

.

[Engineer]

For U-joint yokes with dimensions try G & G.

http://www.ggmfg.com/

Type yoke in the search box.

Most any bearing store will sell these.  IBT, Motion Industries, Etc.

[JimmieD]

Thanks, Engineer!

Man, they've flat got the parts!! Can't imagine I couldn't pull them up in dozens of searches, strange how these search engines work...

DSRacer & Enemy referred me to Brian at B&S who called me yesterday. Tons of excellent info, a very helpful fella! Got this project pretty well figured out & your linked site is also great for some other stuff coming up.

THANKS!