first step of new build

[dsrace]

ya know i am going on 3 years with my latest build and the funny thing is i always try and check bolts and all systems as best i can. i have been fighting a few things on it power wise that i have high hopes i have gotten fixed over the winte,r but the trip will tell for sure. last week when i was cleaning up and setting up for my daughters college graduation party, i strapped the suspension together to load it in the toy hauler so it was out of the way and all the kids didn't climb all over it. when i went to stand up i grabbed a paddle on the tire and the wheel began to move a bit. now it has always had some drag on it and i have straightened axle and checked bearings looked over parts etc etc many many times to find the drag. always figured it was the higher angle on the cv's. hell i even spread the brake pads once to see if it was that of course looking back i did that while the axles were up, the higher angle does add drag at full droop btw. now when i put the axles up they do spin more free and the rail has always rolled down the drive on it's own if you let it. well when i went to get up i heard this quiet pop noise. i spun it again and found that all the bolts on the rear rotor were a little loose and the rotor is slightly warped. it was dragging a bit and i had forgot to put locktite on the bolts when i installed them. so i took it off and then added locktite and lock washers and tighten it all up again. i can now grab the wheel and spin it about 30 to 40% easier than before. the bolts never looked loose and the caliper has held onto the rotor all this time and it never felt loose hell you couldn't wiggle it in and out before either but it was slipping on the bolt holes and moving out of round. i set it pretty tight to it highest tolerance for the caliper housing and there is a slight mark in side the caliper from where it has rubbed on the housing from spinning egg shaped.        the little problems  can  have some pretty big effects.  and one really feels stupid when we find them especially when we have plenty of experiance 
all of the adjustments i have made to the motor thus far have made a diff as well rather small diff's but none the less noticeable ones.   

[fabr]

Don't feel bad. I found my  left wheel bearing loose by about 1 turn. It even has a pinch bolt adjuster on it! Between that and the steering uj splines that were loose and finally wore completely off the car feels like new again. LOL!!!

[dsrace]

so i have always had an issue with the 2001 busa engine or atleast it has never been as responsive as i believe it should be. now i know i have always run 1000 cc's before and on lighter rails with lighter smaller wheel combos. i understand rotating mass effects and gearing. this rail is geared the deepest out of all the rails i have ever built too, 13/70 vs 13/62. i have gone to 15" bead lock rims and 1100 paddles with 2.5" wheel spacers because i chose 28" axles and should've gone with 31" ers. now the solid block of aluminum that makes up the wheel spacer is not as heavy as a steel one but still some weight to it but the 15" rim vs a 12" rim is 20% heavier atleast. the paddle tires.....1100 vs sandblaster 26's are quite a bit heavier. with the 12" rim and blaster 26 i think that wheel combo weighed in at about 22 lbs or so but this 15 bead lock and 1100 weigh in at 43 lbs or so.  not sure how accurate the scale was that i used, stand up scale not a bathroom floor scale. so that will def need more gear reduction.

however, my 2001 busa was still a 16 bit ecu and i wanted to use the bazzaz system which they discontinued them for 99 to 2001 because they were inconsistent with the 16 bit systems where the  02 to 07's were 32 bit systems.  so i decided to convert mine to 32 bit.  now according to the busa forums the 2001 wire harness came wired correctly for this conversion so no wires needed to be swapped per what i read. i did check the first 4 wires in the list against my harness just to check and those were in the correct pins so i didn't go any farther. i purchased an ecu and flywheel off an '05 busa and changed them out. now enemy and carl and fast can attest to this, my engine has never run quite right and as fast put it " labors hard at or about 5k rpm and up" enemy " feels like your always towing a boat" carl ( my favorite) " should've bought a zx kawi engine" or such, lmao .   now i have checked everything on this motor and tested everything but a leak down test. i changed the complete throttle body assembly because it was worn badly and installed the 2005 set because it used a diff tps sensor, i changed the coils to 2005 coils because 2 of mine tested at the bottom of the scale so they were bad anyways. i even checked tappet gaps. so timing, valve lash, compr, timing gears and chain, spark, fuel delivery, inj's and intake boots are all good! well within spec and pretty much in the middle of the scale to the top side.  i even rebuilt my exhaust and opened it up larger and removed 2 90* bends thinking that was it. now each piece i changed or adjusted did make a diff on feel of power and accel but that flat spot has never gone away and my throttle response as far as how snappy it was sitting at idle and goosing it , was just never the same as when i first turned the motor on in the rail. now enemy was there back then and can attest to how tight that throttle snap was! i have always wondered if the after market air box i installed did that cause i changed it before i lost the throttle snap. i have tried setting the tps diff and syncing it with the bazzaz and diff stacks in the air box. 3 diff configurations in the air box to be exact and you can hear a diff in the exh with all 3 diff configs btw!    well i was searching the busa forum for some info related to this issue and came across the post i followed to convert the system and so i re-read it.

http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/166099-16-bit-ecu-32-bit-conversion-how.html

i read that the 2 wires i never checked were crank shaft position wires and that the 02 to 07 use a reverse polarity vs 99 to 01 so last weekend i checked and sure enough my 01 harness has them configured to the 99 to 01 so i re- pinned them in the connector. now i am surprised that the motor even ran with the crank sensor wires crossed and the wire diagram as well as every thing i can find does state 1 pos and 1 neg signal from the sensor. there are posts on the busa forum that they do run either way and a few that state they swapped them and felt no diff. now those posts are old and those people may have deleted there clutch switch's as well and many didn't know back then that you couldn't simply twist the wires together or it would lock you in a N map which is a flat spot from 5k to 8 k rpm as a few reported. this is where my flat spot has always seemed to be so i double check and test my switch for the clutch and it works perfectly so not the problem. i also re-installed the blocking diode back into my side stand switch when i wired the engine so i know that's not it either.  well yesterday i got back on the rail since i'm heading to LS soon and i also change the exh gaskets cause i thought i had a leak. that was a real joy lol     now that it's all back together i decided to syc the tb's again and of course turn it on to make sure it would even start after reversing the polarity from the crank sensor. it started right up faster than it ever does cold! idles better and my throttle snap is back, twitch the throttle and it is right now!   i won't know for sure until i can load it down in the sand if it makes the diff i am looking for but for now it's atleast looking pos and i pre-fer to look on the bright side lol       the only reason i meantioned the posts from the guys on the busa forum that may not have deleted there clutch switch's correctly ( don't know why you anyone would do that on a stock bike) is because and this is just a theory but if they didn't do it right and there ecu's were stuck in a N map then the diff would never be felt. there are companies that make little plug ins to delete the clutch switch so the engine only starts in N and also for the kickstand and tip over sensor and so on.   

[fabr]

You got the Cliff notes on that?

[dsrace]

You got the Cliff notes on that?

lol   check out the link i posted and it will make more sense.   in a nut shell the conversion is to step up to a faster processor so that the ecu can be flashed directly and/or a bazzaz can be used with auto tuner. i have the bazzaz and auto tuner. they don't make them for the 99 to 01 busa'a cause the ecu's are 16 bit systems. the link i posted shows how to re pin the ecu connectors to correct the 99 and 2000 harness to the 02 to 07 harness wiring. almost all articles state that the 2001 was a stand alone bastard so to speak and that the harness didn't or doesn't need to be altered for the conversion and that it is already wired correctly. well when you compare the wiring diagrams for 2001 and 2005 the crank wires are reversed compared to my harness. pos and neg 2 wire sensor. so in 02 , i guess, they reversed polarity on the crank sensor when they went to the diff flywheel. the newer fly wheels have more teeth to read and the cranks sensor sends almost double the pulse's ( close to double ) i wouldn't have even thought it would even start if wired wrong but it does start and rev both ways. i am hoping that with the wires reversed , my flat spot (which i believe feels like a timing issue) will be gone.  some agree and say it does make the diff and some say it made no diff for them.  the same flat spot is also described with a N fuel map which happens not only when in N but when you simply take the clutch switch wires and twist them together. the clutch switch wires have to be separated once in gear or you'll be stuck in a N map which is diff timing and keeps you from hitting rev limit in most cases. i wonder if those that said it made no diff were one's that just twisted the clutch wires together in which case they prob wouldn't have felt a diff. here's another one for you, i can't find the article again but it read that when the low fuel light is on then the ecu also defuels a bit to keep you from burning the engine up and to conserve fuel until fill up. now that article didn't provide proof of that but that is what he claimed.  my low fuel light has been on until the last trip due to an improperly mod'd sending float arm lol i fixed that before the last trip. didn't make a diff that i could tell as far as the flat spot.

[dsrace]

or

[dsrace]

pause the video at 1.00 and read the dyno. you'll have to expand the screen. 296 ft lbs tq at about 9300 rpm? 200 ft lbs tq at about 7600 rpm? kind of how I read it. look the lower afr gauge

[dsrace]

where I would like to get mine lol looks like peak tq is at 7k rpm? 239 ft lbs tq

[Enemy]

Look the lower afr gauge..

That is the 12.5 most busa guys seem to like and target under boost.. Personally I like it a tad fatter for heavy cars and safety - 12.0-12.3 for me @12 psi. Very happy motor 

That 553'r would be a friggin monster! Expensive to feed, but a friggin monster!

[fabr]

I usually run the turbo busa in the 4-8K rpm range. Plenty of grunt there. All higher rpm gives is a longer time between shifts.

[dsrace]

I usually run the turbo busa in the 4-8K rpm range. Plenty of grunt there. All higher rpm gives is a longer time between shifts.

hopefully I will be as well on the spring trip 

[dsrace]

well enemy I asked you what kind of tq they turbo'd busa's put out at the higher psi and it looks good!! I noticed in the one video that the guy rolls into the throttle a little bit then goes wot but the motor takes a little longer to go wot and I'm not talking split seconds.

[dsrace]

here you go enemy turbo busa on e85



garth2851 year ago
in reply to eamonnhayabusa069
Running about 7psi and stock pistons but .080 spacer plate. Stock timing as well.

[Enemy]

Damn, that was a nice run at the end!
  I miss that bike..

Would be nice to know what it did with the boost brought up to levels that we install the spacer plate for..
14 psi on a plate motor is considered "Safe" by most on 93 octane. I dont like the idea of doing that on stock rods for long though 


e85...
I need a bigger fuel tank....
Dammit DS.

[Enemy]

And rods..
And pistons..


And a spare Jeffco