Trailer rear ramp door boards coating question

[Nutz4sand]

Need some input here.

The rear ramp door of my big trailer needs the boards replaced.

I am also gonna put a new seal around the door as its Ok but not great.

Anyways. The boards are bought and cut to fit (except for a little cutout I will do today if it stops frigging snowing....) These are supposed to be the better pressure treated boards in my area (which might not be saying much!) Numbers on the boards below.

The treated lumber is HARD on screws so I have special coated screws to make them last longer. I have also bought two tubes of 100% silicone caulking to place on the metal rails of the door frame to isolate it from the wood as recommended by the largest local trailer place. This is supposed to help the boards not eat the door frame metal.

They also recommend painting the boards with Urethane paint. Which is $$ and hard to come by after looking around for it.

I am thinking of doing the final cut of the side notch so the boards are ready and even drilling the holes then asking if the trailer place will paint them for me as they seem to use the paint a lot anyways. A lot more than me at least.

But does anyone have any input on this? I considered painting them with truck bedliner too. But not sure if good idea on not. I do not want to leave them totally unpainted.

The boards have the various info on them.
 
Presure treated

Teco Tested

PSI-01

Exposure 1

Sheathing span 48/24

23/32 Catagory

Mill 276

Then in a a box by itself there is a large number 3.

In another large box below that it says GYD.

Below that in a large box it says Hudson.


So what would YOU do to the boards before screwing them to the door frame???

[Dunebound69]

I have been doing some work on my trailer as well. I have been putting in some diamond plate. Faber recomended Sonneborn NP-1. I am going to trust him on using this stuff. He been working with this stuff since the stone age . On the rest of my floor I put Rust-Oliem epoxe paint with the sand in it. Gave it a good grip on the surface. You don't slip on it. Only down side is where the wheels set during travel you get the black marks. I did prime the wood first. Go talk to your local supplier. I am betting they can give you some cost effective ideas. Or get Faber to chime in.

[fabr]

Need some input here.

The rear ramp door of my big trailer needs the boards replaced.

I am also gonna put a new seal around the door as its Ok but not great.

Anyways. The boards are bought and cut to fit (except for a little cutout I will do today if it stops frigging snowing....) These are supposed to be the better pressure treated boards in my area (which might not be saying much!) Numbers on the boards below.

The treated lumber is HARD on screws so I have special coated screws to make them last longer. I have also bought two tubes of 100% silicone caulking to place on the metal rails of the door frame to isolate it from the wood as recommended by the largest local trailer place. This is supposed to help the boards not eat the door frame metal.

They also recommend painting the boards with Urethane paint. Which is $$ and hard to come by after looking around for it.

I am thinking of doing the final cut of the side notch so the boards are ready and even drilling the holes then asking if the trailer place will paint them for me as they seem to use the paint a lot anyways. A lot more than me at least.

But does anyone have any input on this? I considered painting them with truck bedliner too. But not sure if good idea on not. I do not want to leave them totally unpainted.

The boards have the various info on them.
 
Presure treated

Teco Tested

PSI-01

Exposure 1

Sheathing span 48/24

23/32 Catagory

Mill 276

Then in a a box by itself there is a large number 3.

In another large box below that it says GYD.

Below that in a large box it says [coloever and not ever eat up you=red]Hudson[/color].


So what would YOU do to the boards before screwing them to the door frame???

I don't want to burst your bubble but I would not have used the pressure treated plywood at all. A far better choice would have been one called BB Plyform. I have used it for a very long time and have yet to have any rot. I just sold my first trailer and the door is over 25 years old with zero rot even tho it gets wet every time it rains. Stuff is made for concrete form work. Water repellent to the core,paint it with a standard oil base enamel ,no need for primer and it will last forever and not eat up the screws. I use galv trailer floor screws to attach. Get them at Grainger.

[Nutz4sand]

Not bursting my bubble at all. Looking for a good way to get it done.

I called your favorite place thats local to me (lowes) and of course they were clueless. Suggest marine plywood.

Isi t called anything else?

[Nutz4sand]

Well I been doing some searches and being Sunday the smaller local to me places are closed.

But I got transferred to first shift this next week and may be fired soon due to actually making people on third work (the jerk I am) so I might be able to check some local smaller palces tommorrow.

I need to get it finished. Might be moving to Iowa or Kansas REAL soon! Utah is still on the list!

[fabr]

Read this . This stuff should be readily available at any "real" lumber yard/building supply. Should be 28-40 bux a sheet.

http://www.royomartin.com/repository/sales/Plyform.pdf

[Carlriddle]

Holy hell, I'm in concrete business and I've never heard of it.      But Fabr right, local lumber place has in stock 3/4 "  $28.75.  Gonna pickup a few pieces as I'm also replacing my floor.



Fabr's the Man!

[fabr]

Holy hell, I'm in concrete business and I've never heard of it.      But Fabr right, local lumber place has in stock 3/4 "  $28.75.  Gonna pickup a few pieces as I'm also replacing my floor.



Fabr's the Man!

Make sure it's the plywood type and not the OSB crap.  That's a good price but you're closer to the mills there. I'm currently at $29.19 a sheet.

[Carlriddle]

Ended up tearing out whole floor and half up rear side walls.     New floor joist some new wall studs and the Fabr sugg floor.  And its the plywood.  Kinda oily smell when you cut it almost like crossties.  Rock solid and slip resist with epoxy w/vinyl chips.  Scary what little crap these things are made of and still roll down the road.

Sorry Nutz, didnt mean to rain on your topic.