DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Chassis and Suspension => Topic started by: Engineer on February 22, 2009, 05:11:30 PM
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Looking for some input here. I was reading the WASA rules and they specify that the floor pan extend to behind the seats. I have seen many buggies from jumping pictures etc, that run the floor pan only to the front of the seats. What do you think the pros and cons are? It seems to me the posibility of a stick or other foreign object coming in from the bottom is one good reason to run it all the way back. Other than that I don't know. Any input?
While we are talking about it...... Floor pan above or below the lower frame rail? Easier to put on below. Also may allow your feet to drop down to a more natural position below.
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IMO running the floorpan just to the seats is asking for a very unpleasant enema. Personally I'd never consider anything less than 1/8" 5053 or better pan under my ass. Mount it below the frame rails,make it at least the same size as the outside dimension of the frame rails and once mounted hammer form the pan to the frame rails. Stiffens the pan and makes a nice look IMO.
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when i built my last vw rail, and the gixxer car, i welded the tabs flush to the bottom of the tubes, "clamped a straight edge across the tubes, and put the tabs on top of the straight edge" I then cut the alum to fit inside the tubes, leaving a 1/2 gap all the way around the edge for debris removal "sand and dirt".. I also extended behind the seat...
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Actually, i spaced the tabs up on the straight edge the thickness of the floor pan, so the pan was flush with the bottom of the tubes... Its been a while, and with age goes the memory... ;D
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That's one way I've seen but I like my way. It's a personal choice thing but I feel safer with it wrapping the tubes. Either way it needs to be flush or below the frame rail and not on top.
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I like to roll fit the pan around the bottom tube of the cage, I think it aids in not snagging on stuff...and there's lots of stuff to get snagged on in the woods :o
I dont always go all the way to the rear of the seat altho it would be a good idea...I usually put the battery box right under the seat any thing looking to get at you has to go thru that first
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I put that last pic in there so you guys could see I'm not all big and bad :m :r :m
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Just goofy lookin.... ;D
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;D
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So everyone agree's with the 1/8"? Is that the Half-hard kind that your talking about Fabr?
Do you beat dents in the floor with your feet? Or pushing yourself up to get out? I'm not a feather weight like you boys! ;D
Were you riveting that on Spec?
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Yup,
I don't beat them up too bad...cept the batterybox...when I drive off the trailer without the ramps ;D
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I forgot to add that I put a bead of silicone between the chassis and pan , to keep the rattle out...I also cup the pan so mud and water run out under the seat
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So everyone agree's with the 1/8"? Is that the Half-hard kind that your talking about Fabr?
Do you beat dents in the floor with your feet? Or pushing yourself up to get out? I'm not a feather weight like you boys! ;D
Were you riveting that on Spec?
3003 h16 is a mid hard aluminum that is easily welded and formed.It will work harden and is easily annealed . 5053 is too stiff to hammer form neatly to the tubes. I use 3003 H16 myself. Many tho would say to use 6061 T6. If using flat sheets and not forming 6061 would be my choice also.
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I put that last pic in there so you guys could see I'm not all big and bad :m :r :m
BUT.... are you gonna wash yer hands afore you do my pickles????????????????
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BUT.... are you gonna wash yer hands afore you do my pickles????????????????
He wears gloves...... There is a video around here somewhere.
http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=597.0 (http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=597.0)
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1/8 is 3mm I think and thats what we have to use (regs) for floor and roof (if using ali). Makes sense to me.
On the larger cars we ran the sheet a half inch outside the lower rails and the fibreglass panels where cut to fit the floor edge. This reduced the amount of water that came inside tween the edge of the fibgl panel and the frame. We ran through a fair bit of water from time to time (see my avatar).
New regs specifically state that no edge shall protrude so I will do this again making sure that the edge is neatly flush with the side panel.
We wrecked the floor regularly and when siliconed on to prevent rattle, can be a bastarx to replace.
My thoughts are as long as your bits are covered front to rear do whatever works for you.
Bought a car once that had 1/16 steel floor WELDED in, didnt notice this lil fact til we tried to strip it during prep. Now that took some replacing.... :-\
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Artie and E-farmer
Yup and yup ;D
cept when I'm picking the goodies