Just picked up this new toy

[Nutz4sand]

ok. This is the kind of responce I'm looking for. If you had to guess how much would the machine shop work cost?

Also, if anyone else has a recommendation like this go ahead and post it. Im not looking to upgrade the crank tho. This is about what I can afford now. (with a little left over for the machine shop)

Add in the cost of upgrading the tranny too! All the HP in the world is useless if it don't go anywhere!

The new motor will likely take out the tranny pretty easy if its not already got goodies in it

[trans man]

OK. This is the kind of responce I'm looking for. If you had to guess how much would the machine shop work cost?

Also, if anyone else has a recommendation like this go ahead and post it. I'm not looking to upgrade the crank tho. This is about what I can afford now. (with a little left over for the machine shop)

There is only a few machine shop left around that know how to work over a VW engine block. For me it's 160 miles away. So you are going to have to do some digging around your area to find one. For me in the past it's been $80 to bore out the block, $80 to bore out the heads, $100 to line bore and thrust cut the block for the main bearings. 

[trans man]

Add in the cost of upgrading the tranny too! All the HP in the world is useless if it don't go anywhere!

The new motor will likely take out the tranny pretty easy if its not already got goodies in it

A car transaxle, in good shape, will take 100HP VW engine as long as you DON"T side step the clutch and/or go out catching air. AKA shock loading the transaxle.

[Nutz4sand]

A car transaxle, in good shape, will take 100HP VW engine as long as you DON"T side step the clutch and/or go out catching air. AKA shock loading the transaxle.

lol Yah I know that and Chaos may too but in the heat of fun it only takes a little to much "oops" to lead to "Hey buddy got a tow strap??"   

BTDT! 

[trans man]

lol Yah I know that and Chaos may too but in the heat of fun it only takes a little to much "oops" to lead to "Hey buddy got a tow strap??"   

BTDT!

I've been there myself years ago. LOL!!! THAT SUCKS!

[fastcorvairs]

       OK save some money you don't need these (Scat double O-ring spring loaded push rod tubes $65) I have seen very few of these that don't leak oil like a Siva.  a new set of stock push rod tubes is all you need at $2.00 each.  Be sure to start out with a AS 41 case.  They are the best. They have the 8MM studs and you will need to Spend the $65 that you save on the push rod tubes and have the case case saved with 10MM case studs. If the shop don't use Time- Serts then move on to a shop that dose.  The machine shop that bores your case should not bore straight Thur the cylinder spigots.  they should be step cut so there is some meat left at the root of the cylinder.  This keeps the case stronger.  There are a lot of 002 bus trans's out there for not much more then a bug.  Use only 3M yellow death to assemble the block. If you have any questions on assembling the engine feel free to PM me.  Plus I have a ton of VW stuff that is just collecting dust on the shelf in the buggy shop.  Mite even have a no minmum bid on here some time for all the stuff. 

[fabr]

       OK save some money you don't need these (Scat double O-ring spring loaded push rod tubes $65) I have seen very few of these that don't leak oil like a Siva.  a new set of stock push rod tubes is all you need at $2.00 each.  Be sure to start out with a AS 41 case.  They are the best. They have the 8MM studs and you will need to Spend the $65 that you save on the push rod tubes and have the case case saved with 10MM case studs. If the shop don't use Time- Serts then move on to a shop that dose.  The machine shop that bores your case should not bore straight Thur the cylinder spigots.  they should be step cut so there is some meat left at the root of the cylinder.  This keeps the case stronger.  There are a lot of 002 bus trans's out there for not much more then a bug.  Use only 3M yellow death to assemble the block. If you have any questions on assembling the engine feel free to PM me.  Plus I have a ton of VW stuff that is just collecting dust on the shelf in the buggy shop.  Mite even have a no minmum bid on here some time for all the stuff. 

Are you talking about 3M weatherstrip adhesive? Last time I had occasion many years ago I used Hylomar for the case and so far as I know it's still going without any major leaks. I'm not about to dispute your word on this as I know you have way more experience than me. My question is this though. Will Hylomar work as well as /not as good as/better than the 3M monkey snot on a very smooth machined mating surface?

[fastcorvairs]

Are you talking about 3M weatherstrip adhesive? Last time I had occasion many years ago I used Hylomar for the case and so far as I know it's still going without any major leaks. I'm not about to dispute your word on this as I know you have way more experience than me. My question is this though. Will Hylomar work as well as /not as good as/better than the 3M monkey snot on a very smooth machined mating surface?

Yes the 3M weather strip snot as you call is the all time best when it comes to sealing up a vw or corvair.  If used sparingly you can't blast the case or cylinders off.  I use a bead about 1/16th wide on all surfaces and bolt together.  When you have to take one apart after you do this it is a bitch. But it won't leak. 3M will not completely harden. It stays pliable and is like a anaerobic it will not screw with tolerances. Plus you have some working time to work with. 

[fabr]

Same properties as Hylomar. I bought a tube of the stuff about a year ago that had been opened and set up. I pried out a ball about the size of a big marble. I have been kneading/rolling/mashing flat/rolling back into a ball everyday since. NOTHING removes it's ability to stick back together and the amazing thing about it is that it absolutely will not trap any air in it no matter how you wad it up.  Totally oil insoluble. I'm going to use it on the adapter cases and if it doesn't work I'll try the monkey snot next. Hylomar is damn near as hard to separate as you describe the monkey snot being and every bit as much a PITA as monkey snot to remove for reassembly. When I worked at VW of America in the 70's we had a special sealant made by/for VW . I really don't know what it was but it also was a non hardening compound of some sort. 

[trans man]

       OK save some money you don't need these (Scat double O-ring spring loaded push rod tubes $65) I have seen very few of these that don't leak oil like a Siva.  a new set of stock push rod tubes is all you need at $2.00 each.  Be sure to start out with a AS 41 case.  They are the best. They have the 8MM studs and you will need to Spend the $65 that you save on the push rod tubes and have the case case saved with 10MM case studs. If the shop don't use Time- Serts then move on to a shop that dose.  The machine shop that bores your case should not bore straight Thur the cylinder spigots.  they should be step cut so there is some meat left at the root of the cylinder.  This keeps the case stronger.  There are a lot of 002 bus trans's out there for not much more then a bug.  Use only 3M yellow death to assemble the block. If you have any questions on assembling the engine feel free to PM me.  Plus I have a ton of VW stuff that is just collecting dust on the shelf in the buggy shop.  Mite even have a no minmum bid on here some time for all the stuff. 

An AS41 block is what he already has. That block already uses 10mm case savers with 8mm head studs.  That is $65 wasted to go to 10mm head studs, you don't need them for running standard compression, 8.5 to 1. The reason for the very good push rod tubes is those don't leak or seep oil. I have not seen a stock set yet that don't start leaking and/or seeping oil over time. Back in the 70's there was a reason way they said VW's were like Harley's, They leaked oil everywhere.

As for the sealant for the 2 block halves there is only one thing I will only use and that is Permatex aviation form a gasket. If you use that you will never have a leak on the block.

[chaos6.7]

Ok people. Tore down the block pulled out the crank and inspected everything. (Ill be posting pictures later) everything looks great other than the jugs and clutch which I'll be replacing. Sold my bike so I have a grand in my pocket. Any last words before I order the parts? Also, exactly what will I be telling the machine shop when I bring them the crank and block?

[fabr]

Ok people. Tore down the block pulled out the crank and inspected everything. (Ill be posting pictures later) everything looks great other than the jugs and clutch which I'll be replacing. Sold my bike so I have a grand in my pocket. Any last words before I order the parts? Also, exactly what will I be telling the machine shop when I bring them the crank and block?

Ummm,where do you want me to bend over? 

[chaos6.7]

Ummm,where do you want me to bend over? 

LOL NOOB!

[trans man]

OK people. Tore down the block pulled out the crank and inspected everything. (Ill be posting pictures later) everything looks great other than the jugs and clutch which I'll be replacing. Sold my bike so I have a grand in my pocket. Any last words before I order the parts? Also, exactly what will I be telling the machine shop when I bring them the crank and block?

What is the condition of the crank? Is there any ridges or grooves in the main or rod journals that you can catch your finger nail on? When you removed the waist pins out of the pistons did they slide out easily with finger pressure and a very light tap of a hammer or did you have to drive them out with a hammer? Are the four dowel pins in the end of the crankshaft, which hold the flywheel on good and tight? The four dowel pins holes on the flywheel look out of round any? The five dowel pins that hold the main bearings are they good and tight, any movement?  On the rear main bearing (the double shoulder bearing) is there any side (thrust) movement in the block or is it tight? How much sludge was in the bottom of the block and in the oil screen? These are all questions that we need to know and will tell us the condition of you engine.

[chaos6.7]

What is the condition of the crank? Is there any ridges or grooves in the main or rod journals that you can catch your finger nail on? When you removed the waist pins out of the pistons did they slide out easily with finger pressure and a very light tap of a hammer or did you have to drive them out with a hammer? Are the four dowel pins in the end of the crankshaft, which hold the flywheel on good and tight? The four dowel pins holes on the flywheel look out of round any? The five dowel pins that hold the main bearings are they good and tight, any movement?  On the rear main bearing (the double shoulder bearing) is there any side (thrust) movement in the block or is it tight? How much sludge was in the bottom of the block and in the oil screen? These are all questions that we need to know and will tell us the condition of you engine.

ok. Crank is good. No ridges. No sludge. Oil leaked out of the engine over time since it's been sitting. Had to tap the pins out of the pistons with a brass punch. Gonna need to get back to you about the rest tho...