My first mini...or any buggy for that matter!!

[Admin]

your going to find a ver very akward toe rate like that, you need the rear links to swing more than making thee t arm go in and out...

[Admin]

I hate to be a nit picker, but have you bolted a wheel on that hub yet, are you using minimal offset wheels?

[Whiplash]

Yeah, I am using the least I can get, but its gonna be close, keep in mind I still have to come up with a bolt pattern adapter for the rear. I guess I don't understand the toe idea, I have yet to cycle it to see what happens. Not even tacked up top or in front yet.

[Admin]

what will happen as it cycles up and down, the rear links will pull the hub inward and push it outward making the toe in change dramaticaly as it cyles, if the rear link are out behind the hub so the come forwar into the hub, it will use more of the swing action not effecting the toe as much, my drak has toe change but it is un noticeable...Ill see if i can find a picture...If not i will take one tomorrow...

[Punkur67]

Hey whiplash, I would recomend a couple more heims in the rear. If you heim the two forward links and seperate them and add one towards the car you will have a 5 link. A little more work but much more affective. And dont be fooled by light weight of the car and severial link mounts. There is a TON of load on your link mounts. I will try to put up a pic of what happens when your link mounts dont have enough gusseting. personal experience.

[Carlriddle]

What kinda travel you looking for out of the rear?  That has to be the longest trailing arm I've ever seen.

Glad to see some progress, Get back out there on Sunday and make that thing a roller.

Hey when I redid the front of my panther I "borrowed" the front end idea from what I saw you do to yours.  THANKS.

[Whiplash]

I thought that looked familiar!! Glad to have helped! The trailing arm is long to try to make the toe change as minimal as possible as the forward mount is further away from the end that is moving in and out thus a bigger arc and less toe change. I borrowed this design from the Redline revolt so it should work ok, they handle great I've been told. I am looking for 20"

[Admin]

they length isnt going to matter, unless you are moving the point inward or outward, you could move it all the way to the front hub and if it is in the same line as it would be on the rear it wont change the effect... You need the rear links to swing back, even the redline does that...

[Voodoochikin04]

hey whip, why didnt you go with the traditional style trailing arm? with the two tubes that come off the carrier, and attach to the frame like right behind the seat??  thats the usual style that i have seen.  pretty much like yoshis.

[Whiplash]

I was considering that, but with my limited experience with this stuff, I tried to make something that I understood and could adjust if I missed somewhere, this way I just build a trailing arm and I can adjust the length of the horizontals as needed without re-designing the whole thing. Next time I will try the trailing arm style as it seems the best compromise, or maybe a 5 link?

As for Bugpac's comment, the longer the arm really has to change the amount of toe in and out as it is a longer lever and therefore requires more change in the rear to make the same change up front, right? I don't see how it couldn't make it less if you really think about it, besides, it worked for the Redline Revolt it will work for me too. I am not driving on pavement, or hard pack --EVER-- I only do sand so it will be fine I think, I understand the toe will change a bit but that will likely help me corner as it will gain toe out in bump making it slide better when the body rolls.

[Admin]

I was considering that, but with my limited experience with this stuff, I tried to make something that I understood and could adjust if I missed somewhere, this way I just build a trailing arm and I can adjust the length of the horizontals as needed without re-designing the whole thing. Next time I will try the trailing arm style as it seems the best compromise, or maybe a 5 link?

As for Bugpac's comment, the longer the arm really has to change the amount of toe in and out as it is a longer lever and therefore requires more change in the rear to make the same change up front, right? I don't see how it couldn't make it less if you really think about it, besides, it worked for the Redline Revolt it will work for me too. I am not driving on pavement, or hard pack --EVER-- I only do sand so it will be fine I think, I understand the toe will change a bit but that will likely help me corner as it will gain toe out in bump making it slide better when the body rolls.

You got it all figured out, youll be fine, I did the same exact thing when i built mine, I ended up cutting it up and send that part to scrap...

[Whiplash]

I am not arguing, just trying to "reason it out" you understand. Hopefully it will work, I figure I am just copying another car that works.

[Admin]

you have to copy it exact tho, If you were shooting for 12" of travel, hell ya youd be fine, but 20 is a lot for the setup...Does a redline swing 20 in the rear?

[Punkur67]

To get 20" you will need some 24"+ axles and race cut 930cvs. And for your camber change the more inboard the froward link to the hub the less toe change you will see. So if you pushed your hub farther out and left the conection point the same on the forward links your camber would increase. Hope this makes sence. Think of your setup kind of like an I-beam setup on a ranger, The longer the beams are the less camber change you will get for the amount of travel. That is why they run the longest beams possible.

[Whiplash]

The axles I am using give almost 36* of angularity woth no clicking, so I thinkn I will be fine, they are plunge type as well.