DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => "AP" Member Project Logs => Topic started by: chaos6.7 on December 07, 2009, 10:11:04 PM
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Found it on Craigslist. Paid $500. Had it running, but my friend beat it like it owed him money, and now I have no idea whats wrong with it. I hope its just the distributor, and points.
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Best looking keg cart I seen yet!
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Piss cutter!! And just 500 bux, and it runs!! :o Man ya gotta be happy with that ;D ;D
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Hells yea.It also came with a fiberglass nose, thats not in the picture. Once its running strong, can anyone help me figure out how to make it street legal in NY?
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Do you have a title for it?
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Nah... No title. I only got a bill of sale. I have no numbers for it whatsoever.
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Nah... No title. I only got a bill of sale. I have no numbers for it whatsoever.
Might need a title to make it road worthy. No numbers wont help ya ether.
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buy a VW title or junker with papers call these guys, they can help
Drew's Offroad in Hamilton Ohio, phone number is
www.go-drews.com (http://www.go-drews.com)
2610 Bobmeyer Road
Hamilton, OH 45015-1306
(513) 868-9543
A guy at work built a rail buggy from scratch, bought a VW title and had it attatched to the rail( drews helped on the build and title work, they do it all or know how to - including making his street legal ) had to have it inspected at the DMV but I see the v dub engine in the back of yours so at least you got a head start , if that doesn't help I can give you Travis's phone number personally. He's the guy that built the rail.
ok, here's the number where you can get travis, 513-874-3848 his business # but try Drew's first. Get the milk straight from the cow if ya know what I mean great score for 500 bucks!
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The best thing you can do is RIP OUT those junk points and condenser and install a comp-u-fire ignition, if you have an 009 mechanical advance distributor ;D ;D ;D
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Thanks for the numbers and tips. I am trying to find a junker at the moment that still has the whole front control assembly including the brakes because I have no front breaks right now and I'll need them for the street. Tried the local scrAp yard and they want $150 per side....?
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IMO you'll want front brakes even if you change your mind and don't go street legal. My old rail had no front breaks and it was down right scary sometimes without them.
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I don't doubt it. Climed the mountain before putting the chains on. The ride back down was friggen scary.
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Did you ever get those tubes made for the rear end? I'm with komelika on the brakes. When I had my vw rail I ran spindle mounts too with rear drums and it didn't like to stop. At minimum I would upgrade to rear disc brakes. If you are running the cheap pedal box like below I would recommend to upgrade that as well. I used them in mine and they would bend or break from pushing to hard on the brakes.
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Thanks but I was just gonna reinforce the mounts I allready have for now. I'll see how it looks once I get the front breaks.
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There's two more parts you should install on the engine to make run trouble free. 1st is an Weber IDF carb, NOT an IMPE IDF carb. 2nd is an alternator to replace that OEM generator. Doing these along with a comp-u-fire ignition will get rid of 95% of your engine problems! 8) 8) 8)
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Somehow that last 5% always seems to like being MY 5%.LOL!!!
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I have a brand new carb that I picked up from appletreeauto.com and I'm not looking to fork over the money to pick up another. Is there a kit to swap the generator for an alternator or do I need to retrofit one?
Honestly I haven't had much time to work on it lately ( no garage and it's been cold and crappy lately in NY,) but... I've got more problems. Since I replaced the pushrod tubes they have been leaking even more, and I have oil coming out of my pre heater tubes into my exhaust on the passinger side. Is there an easy fix for it or am I going to need to tear everything apart?
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WHen I was at the VW dealership in the mid 70's we ALWAYS used NEW stock pushrod tubes and end seals if one was leaking and we replaced ALL of them at the same time. We rarely had a leaker. IMO all of the aftermarket adjustable ones are ,at best, a bandaid.Yes the head needs removed to use the stock tubes. We also put a film of hylomar on the tube seals.
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I have a brand new carb that I picked up from appletreeauto.com and I'm not looking to fork over the money to pick up another. Is there a kit to swap the generator for an alternator or do I need to retrofit one?
Honestly I haven't had much time to work on it lately ( no garage and it's been cold and crappy lately in NY,) but... I've got more problems. Since I replaced the pushrod tubes they have been leaking even more, and I have oil coming out of my pre heater tubes into my exhaust on the passinger side. Is there an easy fix for it or am I going to need to tear everything apart?
Did you use adjustable push rod tubes? If so lose them ASAP. If you just put new seals on your old tubes then you mite not have expanded them or one mite have a crack in the bellows. When you take the old push rod tubes off and reuse them you must first hold them in both hands and gently with your thumbs push the bellows back and forth to expand them some. If you use new stock tubes you will not have to do that. I know clear as mud. When I got out of the VW biz new tubes were like two bucks each. Check your valve cover gaskets real close to.
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ANd buy a tube of Hylomar! ;) ;D
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It's also very likely that the jug seals are bad.That can be mistaken easily for leaking tubes
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There is only one pushrod tubes to use IMO and that is SCAT's triple O-ring spring loaded pushrod tubes. They have an internal spring between in inter and outer aluminum halves that keeps constant pressure to the block and head seals. These babies don't leak,not even with offroad abuse! I've have running them for 5 years now, with no problems. The best part is you don't have to remove the cylinder heads to install them. ;D ;D ;D
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It's also very likely that the jug seals are bad.That can be mistaken easily for leaking tubes
That is very likely! If you find that is where they are leaking. After removing the jugs clean block and the jug skirts. Then apply Peratex aviation form a gasket to the jug skirt's then reinstall. That's the only thing that I have found so they don't ever leak. 8) 8) 8)
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I have a brand new carb that I picked up from appletreeauto.com and I'm not looking to fork over the money to pick up another. Is there a kit to swap the generator for an alternator or do I need to retrofit one?
Honestly I haven't had much time to work on it lately ( no garage and it's been cold and crappy lately in NY,) but... I've got more problems. Since I replaced the pushrod tubes they have been leaking even more, and I have oil coming out of my pre heater tubes into my exhaust on the passinger side. Is there an easy fix for it or am I going to need to tear everything apart?
There are alternator conversion kits, all you have to do is swap out the generator from the fan shroud and the stand from the block. If you have any other questions pm me anytime. 8) 8) 8)
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There is only one pushrod tubes to use IMO and that is SCAT's triple O-ring pushrod. They have an internal spring between in inter and outer aluminum halves that keeps constant pressure to the block and head seals. These babies don't leak,not even with offroad abuse! I've have running them for 5 years now, with no problems. The best part is you don't have to remove the cylinder heads to install them. ;D ;D ;D
Where can I order these?!?!
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It's also very likely that the jug seals are bad.That can be mistaken easily for leaking tubes
Are you talking about the seals at either end of the pushrod? I replaced them.
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Any answers for me about the oil coming out of my pre heaters? Honestly that's what is bothering me the most.
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Are you talking about the seals at either end of the pushrod? I replaced them.
No ,I'm talking about the thin paper seals at the bottom of the cylinder jugs where they mate to the crankcase. They are prone to leaking onto the pushrod tubes and looking like a pushrod tube leak.
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Where can I order these?!?!
You can order directly for Scat ,Moore Parts, or Pacific Customs in CA. 8) 8) 8)
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Any answers for me about the oil coming out of my pre heaters? Honestly that's what is bothering me the most.
Are you talking about the 2 pipes that go from the exhaust to the center intake section? If so the only way oil get there is from very badly worn pistion rings and/or worn valve guides! If that's the case the engine needs to be totally rebuilt. I wish I had better news for you. 8) 8) 8)
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Found it on Craigslist. Paid $500. Had it running, but my friend beat it like it owed him money, and now I have no idea whats wrong with it. I hope its just the distributor, and points.
In that first pic, I seen that heater ducts on your fan shroud are wide open. You need to block those off, so you get maximum air flow from the fan to the jugs, cylinderheads, and oil cooler.
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Yup.
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I have a brand new carb that I picked up from appletreeauto.com and I'm not looking to fork over the money to pick up another. Is there a kit to swap the generator for an alternator or do I need to retrofit one?
Honestly I haven't had much time to work on it lately ( no garage and it's been cold and crappy lately in NY,) but... I've got more problems. Since I replaced the pushrod tubes they have been leaking even more, and I have oil coming out of my pre heater tubes into my exhaust on the passinger side. Is there an easy fix for it or am I going to need to tear everything apart?
What did you get for a new carb 8) 8) 8)
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Are you talking about the 2 pipes that go from the exhaust to the center intake section? If so the only way oil get there is from very badly worn pistion rings and/or worn valve guides! If that's the case the engine needs to be totally rebuilt. I wish I had better news for you. 8) 8) 8)
you just made me a very sad man.... :-(
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Its just an old single port engine, Put a little bit of extra oil in it and go out and beat the hell out of it. If I was in your shoes that's what I would do!!! ;D ;D ;D ;
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You don't want to waste your money on rebuilding that engine anyway. You need to look from a 1600cc dual port, You will find them in 1971-79 bugs or 1971-72 Buses 8) 8) 8)
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OK Fellaz! found myself 2 beetles waisting away in a field. The first one I just tore apart was a 74, so I pulled the motor and trans from it. Once I get a look inside the block Ill give you the heads up on the condition and if I will be rebuilding that one for the buggy.
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Also I was curious how much i should ask for when selling all the glass in the vehicle? (No cracks. pretty good condition.)
Also I cut the roof off and it had what seems to be a factory moon roof. Any clue if it would be worth something to a restoration shop or auto body?
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Any moderators able to move this to the project logs? Didnt realize this was gonna be a project when I first posted...
Gonna need to be asking for advice on the rebuilding of this new Dual Port motor. limited money looking for an upgraded rebuild kit, willing to bore out the motor some. trying not to spend more than 1200 between machine shop and parts.
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Done.
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OK Fellas! found myself 2 beetles waisting away in a field. The first one I just tore apart was a 74, so I pulled the motor and trans from it. Once I get a look inside the block Ill give you the heads up on the condition and if I will be rebuilding that one for the buggy.
Cool!!! I see in that first picture that your 1600 DP already has an alternator, which is a big plus and will save you $200. That looks like a good find. ;D ;D ;D That alternator is externally regulated so make sure you get the regulator block out the the engine compartment before for you junk the car. 8) 8) 8) 8) Being it is a 1974 also means you have the AS41 block, that is the strongest OEM block that VW ever made. It's an excellent base for building a bigger cc engine! :D :D :D
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Gonna need to be asking for advice on the rebuilding of this new Dual Port motor. limited money looking for an upgraded rebuild kit, willing to bore out the motor some. trying not to spend more than 1200 between machine shop and parts.
Earlier you said you got a new carb, did you get a Pict 30 or 34? That will limit you on what size of engine you can build. 8) 8) 8)
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I wouldn't go any bigger than an 1835cc with an Engle 110 camshaft with one of those carbs. Just my .02 8) 8) 8)
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Also I was curious how much i should ask for when selling all the glass in the vehicle? (No cracks. pretty good condition.)
Also I cut the roof off and it had what seems to be a factory moon roof. Any clue if it would be worth something to a restoration shop or auto body?
Check with a local VW Club, some of there members might be interested. 8) 8) 8)
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Just checked the page. For some reason my email didnt mention any posts. Well as far as the carb, Im not gonna let the carb restrict how I build the block up. The guy I got the beetles from says he has a dual carb hes willing to sell me, so I will look at the condition and probably go with that.
Still havent pulled the motor apart. Havent had time. Last weekend I did drive out to the middle of no where to pick up an engine stand I found on Craigslist, hopefully it makes my life a little easier.
Back to the motor work. When I go to the machine shop, What Kind of bore should I be looking for? Trying not to break the bank, but I am looking to bring it up to like 150 HP. Also can anyone recommend a piston kit to go with the bore? I am trying to price everything out at the moment. Still need to sell my DR650 for the cash to finish the project... :/
But hopefully Ill have more info thursday night, Im trying to get the night off of work to tear it down.
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Just checked the page. For some reason my email didnt mention any posts. Well as far as the carb, Im not gonna let the carb restrict how I build the block up. The guy I got the beetles from says he has a dual carb hes willing to sell me, so I will look at the condition and probably go with that.
Still havent pulled the motor apart. Havent had time. Last weekend I did drive out to the middle of no where to pick up an engine stand I found on Craigslist, hopefully it makes my life a little easier.
Back to the motor work. When I go to the machine shop, What Kind of bore should I be looking for? Trying not to break the bank, but I am looking to bring it up to like 150 HP. Also can anyone recommend a piston kit to go with the bore? I am trying to price everything out at the moment. Still need to sell my DR650 for the cash to finish the project... :/
But hopefully Ill have more info thursday night, Im trying to get the night off of work to tear it down.
Don't want to spend to much but you want 150HP out of a VW kick LMAO You can't use them two words in same sentence. To get a VW up to 150HP your looking at a stroker crank for sure and them ain't cheap. You will need to buy pistons and cylinders as a set. You can't just bore out a VW cylinder and find a piston for it. Al tho they do sell just pistons buy them self's they will cost more then just buying a full set of Cimca's.
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Just checked the page. For some reason my email didn't mention any posts. Well as far as the carb, I'm not gonna let the carb restrict how I build the block up. The guy I got the beetles from says he has a dual carb hes willing to sell me, so I will look at the condition and probably go with that.
Still haven't pulled the motor apart. Haven't had time. Last weekend I did drive out to the middle of no where to pick up an engine stand I found on Craigslist, hopefully it makes my life a little easier.
Back to the motor work. When I go to the machine shop, What Kind of bore should I be looking for? Trying not to break the bank, but I am looking to bring it up to like 150 HP. Also can anyone recommend a piston kit to go with the bore? I am trying to price everything out at the moment. Still need to sell my DR650 for the cash to finish the project... :/
But hopefully Ill have more info Thursday night, I'm trying to get the night off of work to tear it down.
In my opinion I would not go any bigger than 92mm jugs and pistons. The reason for that is when you go 94mm, the case saves are exposed and cut into,which can weaken the block and the head stud can pull out.
If you want 150HP on pump gas you will have to build a stroker 2180cc (92mm bore X 82mm stroke) or 2234cc (92mm bore X 84mm stroke). In that case you can't reuse the stock crack (69mm stroke) or rods. 8) 8) 8)
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Fast is 100% right, a Stoker VW engine is not cheap thing to build. I have $4200 in my 2180cc engine, but it is setting at 220HP at the flywheel. It's built from 100% after market parts, no OEM parts at all. The compression ratio is setting at 13.5 to 1, NO PUMP GAS just 114 octane racing fuel! It looks like a VW, but it does not run like a VW. 8) 8) 8)
You can get 120HP out of a 1835cc on pump gas, if you use the right parts. But you will still have about $1500 to $2000 in that engine. :D :D :D
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If you put 150HP engine on the stock car transaxle, you will destroy it. You will need to do some expensive upgrades to it also. More money to spend. 8) 8) 8)
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Well aren't you a ray of sunshine! ;D ;D ;D
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Well aren't you a ray of sunshine! ;D ;D ;D
Just letting him know up front, so he can make the decision that's right for him. 8) 8) 8)
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I agree!
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I agree!
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Well if you guys where looking to burst my bubble you did a damn good job at it. Let me try to lower my standards a little.
How about if I keep the stock crank and upgrade my pistons? Maybe bore it out a little. Is it worth me not boreing and just picking up that 84 piston kit that I found on appletreeauto auto? And any cam/valve recomendations along with it?
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Boring is best accomplished buying new pistons and jugs.
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Well if you guys where looking to burst my bubble you did a damn good job at it. Let me try to lower my standards a little.
How about if I keep the stock crank and upgrade my pistons? Maybe bore it out a little. Is it worth me not boreing and just picking up that 84 piston kit that I found on appletreeauto auto? And any cam/valve recomendations along with it?
A piston kit from Appletree should intail new cyl&pistons. Very few machine shop out there know how to bore single cylinders like the VW and corvair with out crushing them out of round.
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+1. Motorcycle shops are/may be equipped to do single cylinder jugs but don't have a large enough capacity boring bar. For what a set of jugs/rings/pistons cost it's a far better deal anyway buying the set.
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if it is so exspensive to make these engines have power, and everything about the engine and transaxle needs upgraded, why the hell do people even use them? why not put that money into something better...??
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+1
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if it is so exspensive to make these engines have power, and everything about the engine and transaxle needs upgraded, why the hell do people even use them? why not put that money into something better...??
lol I think this is why and how motorcycle mini buggies got started!
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i remember thinking about how my dads old bike would be cool in a go kart, that was back in 2001 before i even knew what a mini buggy or bike powered buggy was..
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40 years before that I was putting a 2.5HP Clinton 2 stroke in an old pedal go-kart. I was literally 6 years old at the time. I never got it running but it was mounted and wired. There's definitely something wrong with me. This shit is truly in my genetic makeup I think. I have 2 uncles and a grandfather that are just like me in their earlier years also. Seems like we can build just about anything we want. I feel SOOOOOO lucky too. I love this shit.
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Boring is best accomplished buying new pistons and jugs.
Anyone have a specific kit to recommend?
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Also FYI, if I didn't pick up this vw I was looking into the r16 shotgun. It's a pretty badass looking motorcycle engined powered buggy.
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Anyone have a specific kit to recommend?
well,not me. It's been too long ago for me to suggest anyone in particular. I bet there's others here that can/will.
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Also FYI, if I didn't pick up this vw I was looking into the r16 shotgun. It's a pretty badass looking motorcycle engined powered buggy.
That's what mine is based on. I stretched and chopped it a bit tho.
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if it is so exspensive to make these engines have power, and everything about the engine and transaxle needs upgraded, why the hell do people even use them? why not put that money into something better...??
Well vodo back when before BETTER was here, the lowly old VW was all we had to work with. Super bikes were pan head Harley's and the 350 Chevy was to heavy to stuff into a buggy. So we made do. Most people that work with buggy's are proficient enough to tear down over haul and fix the little four banger. That's why VW and the after market people built all the stuff to rebuild one in kits. Some people just like working on them and seeing just how far it can be pushed before breaking. Then fix it and try again. It's the love of doing. Use to be you could blow up a vw trans and go out and buy another one for Penney's. Now days you can't do that. To few and far between. Thats why it's getting expensive. But if you know what your doing then it's not so bad.
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40 years before that I was putting a 2.5HP Clinton 2 stroke in an old pedal go-kart. I was literally 6 years old at the time. I never got it running but it was mounted and wired. There's definitely something wrong with me. This shit is truly in my genetic makeup I think. I have 2 uncles and a grandfather that are just like me in their earlier years also. Seems like we can build just about anything we want. I feel SOOOOOO lucky too. I love this shit.
You weren't the only one master. When I was 7 I built my first go-cart. I used the rear end off an old bulldog 3 wheeler and the frame and front end off an old junked out lawn mower. It had a 12HP briggs engine on it. I run the $hit out of it for 3 years before the engine blew up. Those were some good times!!! 8) 8) 8) 8) Lucky I didn't kill myself on that damn thing!!! ;D ;D ;D
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Well if you guys where looking to burst my bubble you did a damn good job at it. Let me try to lower my standards a little.
How about if I keep the stock crank and upgrade my pistons? Maybe bore it out a little. Is it worth me not boring and just picking up that 84 piston kit that I found on appletreeauto auto? And any cam/valve recommendations along with it?
I don't know how much money you have to spend on an engine. So I went to www.mooreparts.com to get you some prices. Here is a list of parts that I have used in the past, that will build a solid running 1835cc VW engine for you. This is not a kit, I like different parts from different companies, you get the better parts that way IMO 8) 8) 8)
92mm Mahle forged pistons and jugs set $290
W120 Engle camshaft $74
Scat performance lifter set $55
Gasket set with rear main seal $16
Engine main bearing set $30
Rod bearing set $12
Camshaft bearing set $12
Impe straight cut camshaft gears $50
Aluminum bolt on valve covers $25
Scat double O-ring spring loaded push rod tubes $65
Impe bolt on sand seal pulley with longer bolt $56
30mm HD oil pump for a flat cam $65
Scat chromoly gland nut with washer $28
Comp-u-fire 009 screamer kit $145
Rebuilding air cooled VW engine manual $19
Total parts $942
This is figuring on you reusing the stock crank, rods, push rods, cylinderheads, valves and rockerarms. With these parts you will be looking at 100HP 1835cc engine on pump gas. You will still have to get the block and cylinderheads bored out 8) 8) 8)
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If you can afford more there is better upgrades you can do, heads, 1.25 ratio rockerarms and counter weighed crankshaft. More power and a higher revving engine. 8) 8) 8) 8)
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You weren't the only one master. When I was 7 I built my first go-cart. I used the rear end off an old bulldog 3 wheeler and the frame and front end off an old junked out lawn mower. It had a 12HP briggs engine on it. I run the $hit out of it for 3 years before the engine blew up. Those were some good times!!! 8) 8) 8) 8) Lucky I didn't kill myself on that damn thing!!! ;D ;D ;D
LOL!! That's funny! Some of us just do this stuff for the love of building.When I'm dead SOMEONE is going to be very lucky. UNLESS Uncle Sam fooks us that is.
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LOL!! That's funny! Some of us just do this stuff for the love of building.When I'm dead SOMEONE is going to be very lucky. UNLESS Uncle Sam fooks us that is.
That's for damn sure!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Well vodo back when before BETTER was here, the lowly old VW was all we had to work with. Super bikes were pan head Harley's and the 350 Chevy was to heavy to stuff into a buggy. So we made do. Most people that work with buggy's are proficient enough to tear down over haul and fix the little four banger. That's why VW and the after market people built all the stuff to rebuild one in kits. Some people just like working on them and seeing just how far it can be pushed before breaking. Then fix it and try again. It's the love of doing. Use to be you could blow up a vw trans and go out and buy another one for Penney's. Now days you can't do that. To few and far between. Thats why it's getting expensive. But if you know what your doing then it's not so bad.
You got to love those little german made bastards. rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
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if it is so expensive to make these engines have power, and everything about the engine and transaxle needs upgraded, why the hell do people even use them? why not put that money into something better...??
Because there is just something about making an 60 HP at 4300 RPM motor go to 220HP at 8000 RPM and it's SCREAMING it's head off!!! Other wise known as pushing the envelop. AKA a fire cracker with a very short fuse.;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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I don't know how much money you have to spend on an engine. So I went to www.mooreparts.com to get you some prices. Here is a list of parts that I have used in the past, that will build a solid running 1835cc VW engine for you. This is not a kit, I like different parts from different companies, you get the better parts that way IMO 8) 8) 8)
92mm Mahle forged pistons and jugs set $290
W120 Engle camshaft $74
Scat performance lifter set $55
Gasket set with rear main seal $16
Engine main bearing set $30
Rod bearing set $12
Camshaft bearing set $12
Impe straight cut camshaft gears $50
Aluminum bolt on valve covers $25
Scat double O-ring spring loaded push rod tubes $65
Impe bolt on sand seal pulley with longer bolt $56
30mm HD oil pump for a flat cam $65
Scat chromoly gland nut with washer $28
Comp-u-fire 009 screamer kit $145
Rebuilding air cooled VW engine manual $19
Total parts $942
This is figuring on you reusing the stock crank, rods, push rods, cylinderheads, valves and rockerarms. With these parts you will be looking at 100HP 1835cc engine on pump gas. You will still have to get the block and cylinderheads bored out 8) 8) 8)
ok. This is the kind of responce I'm looking for. If you had to guess how much would the machine shop work cost?
Also, if anyone else has a recommendation like this go ahead and post it. Im not looking to upgrade the crank tho. This is about what I can afford now. (with a little left over for the machine shop)
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ok. This is the kind of responce I'm looking for. If you had to guess how much would the machine shop work cost?
Also, if anyone else has a recommendation like this go ahead and post it. Im not looking to upgrade the crank tho. This is about what I can afford now. (with a little left over for the machine shop)
Add in the cost of upgrading the tranny too! All the HP in the world is useless if it don't go anywhere!
The new motor will likely take out the tranny pretty easy if its not already got goodies in it
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OK. This is the kind of responce I'm looking for. If you had to guess how much would the machine shop work cost?
Also, if anyone else has a recommendation like this go ahead and post it. I'm not looking to upgrade the crank tho. This is about what I can afford now. (with a little left over for the machine shop)
There is only a few machine shop left around that know how to work over a VW engine block. For me it's 160 miles away. So you are going to have to do some digging around your area to find one. For me in the past it's been $80 to bore out the block, $80 to bore out the heads, $100 to line bore and thrust cut the block for the main bearings. 8) 8) 8) 8)
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Add in the cost of upgrading the tranny too! All the HP in the world is useless if it don't go anywhere!
The new motor will likely take out the tranny pretty easy if its not already got goodies in it
A car transaxle, in good shape, will take 100HP VW engine as long as you DON"T side step the clutch and/or go out catching air. AKA shock loading the transaxle. 8) 8) 8)
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A car transaxle, in good shape, will take 100HP VW engine as long as you DON"T side step the clutch and/or go out catching air. AKA shock loading the transaxle. 8) 8) 8)
lol Yah I know that and Chaos may too but in the heat of fun it only takes a little to much "oops" to lead to "Hey buddy got a tow strap??" :D
BTDT!
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lol Yah I know that and Chaos may too but in the heat of fun it only takes a little to much "oops" to lead to "Hey buddy got a tow strap??" :D
BTDT!
I've been there myself years ago. LOL!!! rofl rofl rofl THAT SUCKS!
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OK save some money you don't need these (Scat double O-ring spring loaded push rod tubes $65) I have seen very few of these that don't leak oil like a Siva. a new set of stock push rod tubes is all you need at $2.00 each. Be sure to start out with a AS 41 case. They are the best. They have the 8MM studs and you will need to Spend the $65 that you save on the push rod tubes and have the case case saved with 10MM case studs. If the shop don't use Time- Serts then move on to a shop that dose. The machine shop that bores your case should not bore straight Thur the cylinder spigots. they should be step cut so there is some meat left at the root of the cylinder. This keeps the case stronger. There are a lot of 002 bus trans's out there for not much more then a bug. Use only 3M yellow death to assemble the block. If you have any questions on assembling the engine feel free to PM me. Plus I have a ton of VW stuff that is just collecting dust on the shelf in the buggy shop. Mite even have a no minmum bid on here some time for all the stuff.
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OK save some money you don't need these (Scat double O-ring spring loaded push rod tubes $65) I have seen very few of these that don't leak oil like a Siva. a new set of stock push rod tubes is all you need at $2.00 each. Be sure to start out with a AS 41 case. They are the best. They have the 8MM studs and you will need to Spend the $65 that you save on the push rod tubes and have the case case saved with 10MM case studs. If the shop don't use Time- Serts then move on to a shop that dose. The machine shop that bores your case should not bore straight Thur the cylinder spigots. they should be step cut so there is some meat left at the root of the cylinder. This keeps the case stronger. There are a lot of 002 bus trans's out there for not much more then a bug. Use only 3M yellow death to assemble the block. If you have any questions on assembling the engine feel free to PM me. Plus I have a ton of VW stuff that is just collecting dust on the shelf in the buggy shop. Mite even have a no minmum bid on here some time for all the stuff.
Are you talking about 3M weatherstrip adhesive? Last time I had occasion many years ago I used Hylomar for the case and so far as I know it's still going without any major leaks. I'm not about to dispute your word on this as I know you have way more experience than me. My question is this though. Will Hylomar work as well as /not as good as/better than the 3M monkey snot on a very smooth machined mating surface?
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Are you talking about 3M weatherstrip adhesive? Last time I had occasion many years ago I used Hylomar for the case and so far as I know it's still going without any major leaks. I'm not about to dispute your word on this as I know you have way more experience than me. My question is this though. Will Hylomar work as well as /not as good as/better than the 3M monkey snot on a very smooth machined mating surface?
Yes the 3M weather strip snot as you call is the all time best when it comes to sealing up a vw or corvair. If used sparingly you can't blast the case or cylinders off. I use a bead about 1/16th wide on all surfaces and bolt together. When you have to take one apart after you do this it is a bitch. But it won't leak. 3M will not completely harden. It stays pliable and is like a anaerobic it will not screw with tolerances. Plus you have some working time to work with.
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Same properties as Hylomar. I bought a tube of the stuff about a year ago that had been opened and set up. I pried out a ball about the size of a big marble. I have been kneading/rolling/mashing flat/rolling back into a ball everyday since. NOTHING removes it's ability to stick back together and the amazing thing about it is that it absolutely will not trap any air in it no matter how you wad it up. Totally oil insoluble. I'm going to use it on the adapter cases and if it doesn't work I'll try the monkey snot next. Hylomar is damn near as hard to separate as you describe the monkey snot being and every bit as much a PITA as monkey snot to remove for reassembly. When I worked at VW of America in the 70's we had a special sealant made by/for VW . I really don't know what it was but it also was a non hardening compound of some sort.
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OK save some money you don't need these (Scat double O-ring spring loaded push rod tubes $65) I have seen very few of these that don't leak oil like a Siva. a new set of stock push rod tubes is all you need at $2.00 each. Be sure to start out with a AS 41 case. They are the best. They have the 8MM studs and you will need to Spend the $65 that you save on the push rod tubes and have the case case saved with 10MM case studs. If the shop don't use Time- Serts then move on to a shop that dose. The machine shop that bores your case should not bore straight Thur the cylinder spigots. they should be step cut so there is some meat left at the root of the cylinder. This keeps the case stronger. There are a lot of 002 bus trans's out there for not much more then a bug. Use only 3M yellow death to assemble the block. If you have any questions on assembling the engine feel free to PM me. Plus I have a ton of VW stuff that is just collecting dust on the shelf in the buggy shop. Mite even have a no minmum bid on here some time for all the stuff.
An AS41 block is what he already has. That block already uses 10mm case savers with 8mm head studs. That is $65 wasted to go to 10mm head studs, you don't need them for running standard compression, 8.5 to 1. The reason for the very good push rod tubes is those don't leak or seep oil. I have not seen a stock set yet that don't start leaking and/or seeping oil over time. Back in the 70's there was a reason way they said VW's were like Harley's, They leaked oil everywhere. 8) 8) 8) 8)
As for the sealant for the 2 block halves there is only one thing I will only use and that is Permatex aviation form a gasket. If you use that you will never have a leak on the block. 8) 8) 8) 8)
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Ok people. Tore down the block pulled out the crank and inspected everything. (Ill be posting pictures later) everything looks great other than the jugs and clutch which I'll be replacing. Sold my bike so I have a grand in my pocket. Any last words before I order the parts? Also, exactly what will I be telling the machine shop when I bring them the crank and block?
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Ok people. Tore down the block pulled out the crank and inspected everything. (Ill be posting pictures later) everything looks great other than the jugs and clutch which I'll be replacing. Sold my bike so I have a grand in my pocket. Any last words before I order the parts? Also, exactly what will I be telling the machine shop when I bring them the crank and block?
Ummm,where do you want me to bend over? ;D ;D ;D ;D rofl rofl
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Ummm,where do you want me to bend over? ;D ;D ;D ;D rofl rofl
LOL NOOB!
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OK people. Tore down the block pulled out the crank and inspected everything. (Ill be posting pictures later) everything looks great other than the jugs and clutch which I'll be replacing. Sold my bike so I have a grand in my pocket. Any last words before I order the parts? Also, exactly what will I be telling the machine shop when I bring them the crank and block?
What is the condition of the crank? Is there any ridges or grooves in the main or rod journals that you can catch your finger nail on? When you removed the waist pins out of the pistons did they slide out easily with finger pressure and a very light tap of a hammer or did you have to drive them out with a hammer? Are the four dowel pins in the end of the crankshaft, which hold the flywheel on good and tight? The four dowel pins holes on the flywheel look out of round any? The five dowel pins that hold the main bearings are they good and tight, any movement? On the rear main bearing (the double shoulder bearing) is there any side (thrust) movement in the block or is it tight? How much sludge was in the bottom of the block and in the oil screen? These are all questions that we need to know and will tell us the condition of you engine. 8) 8) 8)
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What is the condition of the crank? Is there any ridges or grooves in the main or rod journals that you can catch your finger nail on? When you removed the waist pins out of the pistons did they slide out easily with finger pressure and a very light tap of a hammer or did you have to drive them out with a hammer? Are the four dowel pins in the end of the crankshaft, which hold the flywheel on good and tight? The four dowel pins holes on the flywheel look out of round any? The five dowel pins that hold the main bearings are they good and tight, any movement? On the rear main bearing (the double shoulder bearing) is there any side (thrust) movement in the block or is it tight? How much sludge was in the bottom of the block and in the oil screen? These are all questions that we need to know and will tell us the condition of you engine. 8) 8) 8)
ok. Crank is good. No ridges. No sludge. Oil leaked out of the engine over time since it's been sitting. Had to tap the pins out of the pistons with a brass punch. Gonna need to get back to you about the rest tho...
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Sorry... I thaught my girl took better pics than this. Ill take more when i head back to clean the block up.
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In that first pic I see you still need to remove the camshaft and distributor drive gears to get the 1ST and 2ND main bearings off. To do this remove the half moon key at the end of the crankshaft. Next remove the oil slinger washer. Next slide the 1ST main bearing off. Next remove the snap ring off the crackshaft. Then use a gear puller and hook it between the 2ND main bearing and camshaft drive gear. As you pull, the distributor drive gear will slide off too. 8) 8) 8)
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Chaos6.7, have you gotten any farther on your engine? ??? ???
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Chaos6.7, have you gotten any farther on your engine? ??? ???
Sorry. Haven't had the time... I'm kinda torn guys... I also have a grand national with a blown motor and I just found a new block with an upgraded crank and forged pistons for $900... I don't know if I should continue with the buggy or get it back on the road.... It's stressing me out. drowning
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Do the one that you enjoy doing more. :D :D :D
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OK. Im over it. Just posted the Grand national on craigslist. Not worth the money and Im tired of tuneing that alky Kit. Im gonna finish taking that crank apart this weekend and by next week I will have chosen a machine shop. (I have been dragging my feet for too long...)
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COOL, sounds good! 8) 8) 8)
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gg: gg: gg:
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I know. I know. Went to the machine shop this morning. Told me to clean the inside of the block more and get the measurements for the new jugs. He has plenty of experience with these motors has all the bearings I'll need, and is highly reccommended. Anybody ever hear the name John gunn? I guess he's pretty big in drag racing.
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IAnybody ever hear the name John gunn? I guess he's pretty big in drag racing.
??? ??? ??? His name doesn't ring a bell for me. Where's he out of ? If he's an old VW drag racer, the machine work to your block will be done right.8) 8) 8)
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WHY do YOU have to clean out the case if he's so good? BS.
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WHY do YOU have to clean out the case if he's so good? BS.
uhhh.... Any work I do I don't have to pay him for...?
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5 minutes in a bead or soda blaster is going to save what? Hell ,when I was doing the auto machine shop I cleaned all blocks as part of the boring cost. I can't imagine a shop not doing so now. Oh well.
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You also need to remember that I'm in NY. You need to pay for Everything here...
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I see your point.I forgot I'm in Bumfook Kansas. ;D
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I'm not surprised, people don't do anything for free anymore. :( :( :(
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I didn't either. It was just part of the cost I charged for. Pretty foolish IMO of the shop owner to not want that profit.
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Are you waiting on the machine work? ??? ??? ???
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Sorry im taking so damn long. The machine shop is high quality and low price but he takes forever... i have been taking advantage of the free time away from the motor and i have been refinishing the frame. Any opinions on that spray on duplicolor or rustolium truck bed lining? Its cheaper than roll on rhinolining and its more uv friendly than pur15.
Also i need front brakes. I don't even have drums so i may just as well buy a caliper kit since the scrap yards around here want at the least $120 a side. Any kits to reccommend? The only ones i've checked out so far is mofoco. Tell me if you need to see pictures and ill go take some.
I know i haven't been posting but trust me that i am still keeping busy.
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I don't know anything about aftermarket front brakes, go to samba.com. There maybe some people on there that will know. 8) 8) 8)
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Its cool. I found a set of disc brakes for a kingpin front end for 250. Still waiting for the machine work but im about to clean up another motor as a quick fix.
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Sounds good. :) :) :)
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http://www.pacificcustoms.com/economy-front-disc-brake-kits.html (http://www.pacificcustoms.com/economy-front-disc-brake-kits.html)
http://www.jamarperformance.com/Store/Results1.asp?Category=3 (http://www.jamarperformance.com/Store/Results1.asp?Category=3)
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im about to clean up another motor as a quick fix.
Did you get it up and running? Are you still waiting your engine case?
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Second motor seems to be more trouble than it would be worth, (needs a complete rebuild...) so im just trying to light a fire under my machine shop guys ass. But on the bright side from that beetle i got a complete ball joint front end and from the torsion bar back is good too. So when i am so inclined i can build another. Or a manx or something like that's.
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Sound good, Hopefully you can have your new engine running before the snow starts flying. 8) 8) 8)
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I don't have my hopes up for that, but i guess that's why god invented snow chains.
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I don't have my hopes up for that, but i guess that's why god invented snow chains.
rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
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Are you still waiting? ??? ??? ??? The snow will be here snow.
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At this rate the snow will have melted by the time he gets it done. I am not gonna stress it. I can't afford anyone else.
I have been re doing the breaks and needed to know if a break balancer would be worth the money? I figured for this application it wouldn't be worth the cash.
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At this rate the snow will have melted by the time he gets it done. I am not gonna stress it. I can't afford anyone else.
I have been re doing the breaks and needed to know if a break balancer would be worth the money? I figured for this application it wouldn't be worth the cash.
Install a 10 psi brake residual valve at the master cylinder. It will make those drum brakes work a hole lot better. 8) 8) 8)
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At this rate the snow will have melted by the time he gets it done. I am not gonna stress it. I can't afford anyone else.
kick That SUCKS.
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You still running drum brakes on all 4 corners right?
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At the moment, only rear breaks but i have a pair on different spindles that i can swap for front brakes.
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Ok, a 10 psi residual valve is want you need. CNC makes them.
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I have installed them in the past on vw beetles and they made a night and day difference. 8) 8) 8)
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Any website i can order one from?
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Any website i can order one from?
Here ya go!
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=residual%20valve&dds=1 (http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=residual%20valve&dds=1)
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www.speedwaymotors.com (http://www.speedwaymotors.com) willwood stuff
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Or www.mooreparts.com ;D ;D ;D
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Will this fix my having to pump the pedal every time I have to stop? Disk in rear drum up front?? Everything else seems in good shape??
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Will this fix my having to pump the pedal every time I have to stop? Disk in rear drum up front?? Everything else seems in good shape??
The soft pedal is not related to type of brake. It is an issue with the system re: air or such would be my guess? The smart ones will chime in soon enough.
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Air OR MC volume. Mushy pedal after pumping is air. Pedal will try to raise under your foot from air pressure in line. Firm pedal after pumping is a volume issue.
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Air OR MC volume. Mushy pedal after pumping is air. Pedal will try to raise under your foot from air pressure in line. Firm pedal after pumping is a volume issue.
like my clutch pedal! LMAO rofl LMAO
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Yeah, its firm after pumping. I think it will be fine after I get rid of the front brakes....Oh wait I just did!
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Will this fix my having to pump the pedal every time I have to stop? Disk in rear drum up front?? Everything else seems in good shape??
It will help, but when you go to disc brakes you need a bigger brake master cylinder. Disc brakes take more fluid to operate, than drum brakes. 8) 8) 8)
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Not the case-usually. Disc brakes,unless massive,displace less fluid per application than drums . The piston volumes are larger with discs but the travel of a disc piston is much less than a drum piston,therefore in most cases less fluid is actually displaced with discs than drums.
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Yeah, its firm after pumping. I think it will be fine after I get rid of the front brakes....Oh wait I just did!
The reason it gets hard after 1 pump is because the first pump brings the shoes against the drum then the second actually applies the brakes, this is where the "10 pound residual pressure" valve comes in it keeps 10 psi in the brake line so the brake shoes don't retract all the way and the first brake application can apply the brakes instead of "taking up the slack"
Hope this helps...oh and don't ever use a residual psi valve in a disc brake set up in the standard configuration. You can use them if the master is below the calipers, this will keep the fluid from overflowing the master. But the system needs to be designed properly, they also make them in different psi ratings....
Joe
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Not the case-usually. Disc brakes,unless massive,displace less fluid per application than drums . The piston volumes are larger with discs but the travel of a disc piston is much less than a drum piston,therefore in most cases less fluid is actually displaced with discs than drums.
On any other application I will totally agree with you Fabr, but when it comes to VW and after market disc brake conversions, its the total opposite. 8) 8) 8)
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The reason it gets hard after 1 pump is because the first pump brings the shoes against the drum then the second actually applies the brakes, this is where the "10 pound residual pressure" valve comes in it keeps 10 psi in the brake line so the brake shoes don't retract all the way and the first brake application can apply the brakes instead of "taking up the slack"
Hope this helps...oh and don't ever use a residual psi valve in a disc brake set up in the standard configuration. You can use them if the master is below the calipers, this will keep the fluid from overflowing the master. But the system needs to be designed properly, they also make them in different psi ratings....
Joe
Ace's info is spot on, except for you can run a 2 psi residual valve on disc brakes. :) :) :)
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SO, chances are I will need these even without the front drums eh? Should I start with the 10psi? Where is a good place to get em? Or did I miss that already?
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What you NEED to do is calculate the displaced volume of the brakes on application and size the MC accordingly.
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Yeah, but for now, I just NEED to get it running again! To be honest, its not a problem at all and it stops GREAT, I just have to double pump...
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Yeah, but for now, I just NEED to get it running again! To be honest, its not a problem at all and it stops GREAT, I just have to double pump...
NOW THAT'S A STATEMENT rofl
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You won't think it stops great double pumping in a panic situation.
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Agreed its not the best, but I come from old school hot rod cars where everything is buggy, and I am used to it, I have actually had a few panic stops already and the double tap comes naturally. That being said, I WOULD like to get it resolved as long as I don't have to re do the entire brake system. Are there larger master cylinders in the std. VW configuration? I have not seen any. If you know where to get one, I would be all over it!
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Doesn't matter if there are other sizes available if you won't do the math first.
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(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpre.cloudfront.goodinc.com%2Fposts%2Fpost_full_1284761463math-class-is-tough-barbie.jpg&hash=ae930c6137c78c85881db9f1eb716e902f41878c)
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Not sure I understand? What math? If I need a bigger one can't I just get a bigger one??
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What Master's say'n is with the math you can size it the 1st time. Swappin parts till you get it right will work and would quallify you as a mechanic at most repair shops. bs1
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Yup!
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I see, so I just need to what, figure out the piston diameter of the master cyl, and, compare it to the rear caliper cylinders? I have an idea, why not just run both of my master cyl outputs to the rear now that I don't use the front brakes? that would double my volume for FREE! plus if one ever died, it would still allow me to stop the car!
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except it would brake unevenly rofl
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http://www.outlawdiscbrakes.com/faq.html (http://www.outlawdiscbrakes.com/faq.html)
http://www.markwilliams.com/braketech.aspx (http://www.markwilliams.com/braketech.aspx)
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except it would brake unevenly rofl
Good point!
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http://www.outlawdiscbrakes.com/faq.html (http://www.outlawdiscbrakes.com/faq.html)
http://www.markwilliams.com/braketech.aspx (http://www.markwilliams.com/braketech.aspx)
Thanks!
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Hey choas6.7, have you got your block back yet? ??? ???