For a lightweight buggy, I can do 4 shocks with triple rate springs, sliders and cross over collars for $999. They would be valved and sprung based on vehicle corner weights and your suspension geometry with a 30 day valving guarantee. If they are not setup they way you like, send them back. The 30 day clock resets.
This is an old picture. The new bodies are also satin black like other hardware. Main spring also available in blue. Tender springs also available in red and white.
The rule of thumb about 90 degrees that typically gets stated incorrectly is that you do not want to cross 90 degrees to the A-arm. If the shock crosses 90, the lever ratio increases from that point to full bump. The 90 degrees is measured from the top shock eye, bottom shock eye, A-arm pivot point that arm is attached to. It is not to the ground. It is not to the A-arm tube.
One approach is to pick your mounting point on the A-arm. I prefer as close to the ball joint as possible. Pick your travel, say 14". Pick your lever ratios, say 2:1. So you need a shock with 7" travel. Let's say that ends up being a 21" long extended shock, 14" compressed. Put the arm at full bump/where frame is an appropriate amount of clearance off the ground. With a piece of cardboard behind the shock mount on the arm, use a string and pencil to draw a 14" radius arc on the cardboard. Lower arm your 14" suspension travel. Draw another arc with 21" radius. Where the two arcs cross is your upper shock mounting point. With the lower point shoved out, you won't hit 90. Since everything was measured based on a pre-determined lever ratio, any remarks about leaning the shock is bad because it increases lever ratio would not be relevant.
