Author Topic: coilover questions  (Read 3513 times)

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beastybronco

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coilover questions
« on: August 22, 2011, 08:29:30 AM »
what kind of coilovers would you guys recommend?  I'm looking at sway-a-ways.  I'm just starting to do research on building my own mini but there is a lot of options out there and you guys sound like you know what your talking about most of the time lol and i want your opinion. Thanks

http://www.swayaway.com/OffRoadTrucks_2.php
« Last Edit: August 22, 2011, 08:51:21 AM by beastybronco »

Offline Carlriddle

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2011, 08:51:10 AM »
Thats like asking whats my favorite kid.  Probably need more info on what your building, but any of the coil-over air shock could be setup to work. 
You can keep your CHANGE, I'd like to keep my DOLLAR.

beastybronco

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2011, 08:52:50 AM »
a 2 seater with 95-100" wheelbase powered by cbr1000RR

beastybronco

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2011, 08:53:35 AM »
with bout 12-14 inches of travel.  Just getting into this project.  Been building a 4X4 but decided it will be too hard to make that street legal so i thought bout building a mini,  heard they were pretty easy to make legal on the street
« Last Edit: August 22, 2011, 08:57:20 AM by beastybronco »

Offline Dunebound69

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2011, 08:56:20 AM »
I have fox air's with coil assist. I have been very happy with them. You have nitrogen, spring rates (2 springs per shock), slip ring (black slid between the springs, and valve you can adjust. Big plus with the airs is you can play with pressure to dial in once the springs are even semi close. Or riding conditions change. Adding pressure is a lot quicker than changing springs. My 2 cents.

Have you thought about just running fox airs. Lot of bike powered cars don't use coils since they are a lot lighter. I had just airs on the front of my car for years. They worked great till I gained a lot of weight (me not the car). If you could I would run fox 2.5s and no coils. the 2.5s start with a 12 inch stroke. I was going to put them on my car but I had 10" shocks and could not make the 12's fit due to the 2.5 is 4 inches longer that the same stroke 2.0. +2 more cents at no extra charge.
 
« Last Edit: August 22, 2011, 09:01:52 AM by Dunebound69 »
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Offline Carlriddle

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2011, 09:01:12 AM »
Dont forget those prices do not include springs, 4 or 8 springs.
You can keep your CHANGE, I'd like to keep my DOLLAR.

beastybronco

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2011, 01:24:21 PM »
Thanks for the info. i will look into it

Online fabr

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #7 on: August 22, 2011, 04:18:39 PM »
I have fox air's with coil assist. I have been very happy with them. You have nitrogen, spring rates (2 springs per shock), slip ring (black slid between the springs, and valve you can adjust. Big plus with the airs is you can play with pressure to dial in once the springs are even semi close. Or riding conditions change. Adding pressure is a lot quicker than changing springs. My 2 cents.

Have you thought about just running fox airs. Lot of bike powered cars don't use coils since they are a lot lighter. I had just airs on the front of my car for years. They worked great till I gained a lot of weight (me not the car). If you could I would run fox 2.5s and no coils. the 2.5s start with a 12 inch stroke. I was going to put them on my car but I had 10" shocks and could not make the 12's fit due to the 2.5 is 4 inches longer that the same stroke 2.0. +2 more cents at no extra charge.
+1. I'll do that next time . This applies to a bit larger car tho. For your app I'd stay with Fox Airs.
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Offline Dunebound69

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #8 on: August 23, 2011, 08:08:37 AM »
Enemy is running 2.5 fox airs. DS has 2.0 airs on the front of his v6 car and they work dam good. If you run like the mad man Enemy dose the 2.5 may be in order to be able to run lower pressure so you build less heat. I would recommend going with the airs for MC powered rail. I would guess you will be 800 to a 1000 lbs for a 2 seat rail. Easily in the 2.0 work range of about 500 lbs a shock. 2.5 are about 1000 lbs a shock.

Placement of the shock mount out at the wheel is vital. The closer to the wheel the more control the shock has on it. As you move away from the wheel the wheel gains leverage on the shock. This requires more shock/spring pressure to control the wheel and hold up the car. Most people say to not go past 2:1 on the leverage.
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beastybronco

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #9 on: August 23, 2011, 08:53:56 AM »
. Most people say to not go past 2:1 on the leverage.

so if you have a 20 inch arm stay closer to the wheel then 10 inches?

Offline Carlriddle

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #10 on: August 23, 2011, 10:55:36 AM »
Yep, except arm length is not the ratio lenght.  Out to center of tire, thats the length for ratio.
You can keep your CHANGE, I'd like to keep my DOLLAR.

beastybronco

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #11 on: August 23, 2011, 11:35:19 AM »
that makes sense.  Another question is what angle degree do you prefer the shock to be at?  I read the closest to 90 is better then anything but i cant find out why you would want that.  I know this is a personal preference.

Spec

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #12 on: August 23, 2011, 01:00:50 PM »
shock angle is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT  when figuring the ratio...as the shock deviates from 90* the rate goes down exponentially

beastybronco

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #13 on: August 23, 2011, 01:31:45 PM »
So you'd just have to run more air pressure in the shock if you run say 80* instead of 90*?   Sorry bout all the stupid questions just dont know that much about them only worked with leaf springs before.  Don't  know that much but coilovers and shocks.

Offline Dunebound69

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Re: coilover questions
« Reply #14 on: August 23, 2011, 01:39:22 PM »
that makes sense.  Another question is what angle degree do you prefer the shock to be at?  I read the closest to 90 is better then anything but i cant find out why you would want that.  I know this is a personal preference.

Placement is more important than angle. On my car I redid them to stand them up and my pressure needed went through the roof! I have a 10" stroke shock and am getting 24" of wheel travel. The closer to the wheel the better. The math shows that at closer to 90 the shock put more force downward. But you are trying to push the wheel down and away from the car on most cars. So 90 degrees is not perfect. This has ALOT to do with your chassis.
« Last Edit: August 23, 2011, 01:43:49 PM by Dunebound69 »
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