DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Member Project Logs => Topic started by: Admin on January 08, 2009, 06:35:34 PM
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Ok as you can clearly see there is absolutely no room for a bike engine without major modifications... So what i dislike about the drakart...
1. The carburetors are junk Pieces of shit... Bad choice on the manufacturers part....
2. The air filter system Is completely Juryrigged... Again bad choice on the manufacturers part...
3. The engine mount sucks ass, wasn't a believer but i am now... Same bad choices...
4. the wiring is kinda jury rigged as well....Another bad choice...
So first off i pull a comp test, one cylinder is average, other is below average... Time for top end rebuild...
Now the objective is to move the engine so the stock ski doo carb can be installed, there is not enuff room between the engine and trans for this to happen....
Sorry older pics, should have took new ones before I started..
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi446.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fqq182%2Fbuggyfabber%2F039.jpg&hash=a26cc19365d979efba820989f62d5e4d99da1315)
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So what i am electing to do is raise the engine 1.25" up, and tilting it forward at 5-8 degrees....
Yesterday i pulled the engine out, I have found the stock engine mount is broke in 2...I wasnt a believer that the engine was mounted to rigid, I certainly am now....Also you will clearly see there is minimal room in the engine bay...
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I purchased a stock ski doo engine cradle from ebay, waiting for it to arrive now...The plan And no i am not the first to do this, Cant take credit for it being my idea either....Anyhow the plan is to set the stock engine cradle on top of the drak engine mount, after repairing the stock mount of course....and putting spacers between the 2 mounts and bolting it down tight, the holes i am using are were the engine studs go, so alignment should be precise....
Here is the mount... Stock rubber mounting to isolate vibration... Litespeed was the original pioneer of this i do believe...
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This is the goal.... Not mine, Thanks Bazz for letting me steel your pic....
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More to follow, working on this and other projects at the same time, Had to buy new carb boots to fit stock carbs, and but new unifilters to make sure everything fits, hope to have them on monday...Thanks to Aftershockmotorsports for them, Also thanks to Odypilots for coming over and helping me push it around to the heated shop, and borrow his compression tester....
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Ummmmm.........
Not to be critical, but these photos would have been relevant when your Bike motor stuffing wet dream first occured!!......... :-% b:1 :u :u :t
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When I first got my Drak the motor mount was also broken, it was where the tube has a big hole cut out of the bottom of it for one of the motor bolts.
Piss poor design to say the least.
Bragging rights, My Drak now (for 3 or 4 years, I forget!) vibrates less than the Geo Draks or a Pilot. Not bad for a Missouri Home builder huh?
Tom
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My pic is a bit blurry,like I am this morn.I'll look for some better ones for ya.Tom has some great pics in his gallery of FAME. ;D Ya shoulda powerwashed it all down before ya set upon it with your spanners Bug! Makes the operation a lot easier and FUN FUN FUN! ;D
I shoulda done the same thing with the extra height,but was worried about the pipe to firewall clearance/heat....maybe next time?
I also did'nt like the drop down from the 40's to 38 carbs,should be some power gain as well with this mod back to the future?
That 4 legged Donkey thing Motor Cradle is a real dolebludger,just does'nt go to work! :o For the sake of no more than 50 bucks,WHY did'nt Alain just use the tried and proven/tested OEM???
I also like the way the OEM's rubbers (can I say that here? ::))are angled on 45 front n back to create a self holding/positioning wedge.
When I removed my donkey cradle,I had to YANK it out,was very tight/jammed in there,and had moocho trouble to line it all back up.
This does nothing for the Drak rubbers to work,must have all shifted with the welding expansion? How was yours to remove Bug? Tom?
I'll watch this mod with interest,WHY? Cause interest rates are cheap at the moment! ;D
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My pic is a bit blurry,like I am this morn.I'll look for some better ones for ya.Tom has some great pics in his gallery of FAME. ;D Ya shoulda powerwashed it all down before ya set upon it with your spanners Bug! Makes the operation a lot easier and FUN FUN FUN! ;D
I shoulda done the same thing with the extra height,but was worried about the pipe to firewall clearance/heat....maybe next time?
I also did'nt like the drop down from the 40's to 38 carbs,should be some power gain as well with this mod back to the future?
That 4 legged Donkey thing Motor Cradle is a real dolebludger,just does'nt go to work! :o For the sake of no more than 50 bucks,WHY did'nt Alain just use the tried and proven/tested OEM???
I also like the way the OEM's rubbers (can I say that here? ::))are angled on 45 front n back to create a self holding/positioning wedge.
When I removed my donkey cradle,I had to YANK it out,was very tight/jammed in there,and had moocho trouble to line it all back up.
This does nothing for the Drak rubbers to work,must have all shifted with the welding expansion? How was yours to remove Bug? Tom?
I'll watch this mod with interest,WHY? Cause interest rates are cheap at the moment! ;D
That is as far as i have gone, It will be getting a bath before i do to much more work....
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Hey Bug,
Mine came right out. It was a bit tight in the clamps from them being torqued down from the bolts but still came out with little force.
Alain didn't use the stock motor mount because he thought it moved to much, I guess he didn't realize it had been proven for 20 something years. I think he just thought like a race car builder that solid mounts the engine to the frame or maybe he just didn't think at all!
Tom
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Hey Bug,
Mine came right out. It was a bit tight in the clamps from them being torqued down from the bolts but still came out with little force.
Alain didn't use the stock motor mount because he thought it moved to much, I guess he didn't realize it had been proven for 20 something years. I think he just thought like a race car builder that solid mounts the engine to the frame or maybe he just didn't think at all!
Tom
The more i hear and the more i find on my own, I do believe he cared, But it was only about getting the check.... ;D
Probably be a few days before i get back to it... I really wanna wash it, but i cant do it indoors, and to damn cold to do it outside.... ;D
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Bug, an off topic (and serious) question.... what sort of lifespan to the drive belts on these things give? And the variable pulley.... are they limited? I guess it depends upon what you are running IN.... sand would be a bitch I would imagine...
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Bug, an off topic (and serious) question.... what sort of lifespan to the drive belts on these things give? And the variable pulley.... are they limited? I guess it depends upon what you are running IN.... sand would be a bitch I would imagine...
I waisted 2 belt in the first month i had it, after which i added the torque strut to the engine "Keeping it from moving and loosening the belt, Not solid the engine only pushed against it", anyhow after that i had no problems besides smoking the edges at the drag strip, something about trying to hold the engine rpms 500 rpm lower than belt engagement "5500" waiting for the tree to go... A 2 step rev limiter would cure this... I seen a post once that litespeed is on his 3rd or 4th yr with the same belt... The cvt clutches in the snow last 6, 7, or 8000 miles, I expect dirt to last 1/2 of that, yet again just an assumption... there is many different grades of drive clutches just in the ski doo lineup oem...A good billet aftermarket clutch would likely outlast the machine itself...
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Hey Bazz, You might do some checking with all them people you know, the ski doo engines and clutches I believe are made in Australia... Maybe you can get one over there... Happened to think about that today....
Edit... My bad it is Austria...
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Well i finally got the parts i need, i have managed to get the engine mount all fabbed up, Little slower than i planned, but i have been doing battle with a cold, second time in 6 weeks.... Just need to source the airbox to carb rubber adapters, I plan to make a fiberglass airbox, use a paper filter in it, the pleated ones from newer cars, then hose up under the roof with 2 oiled uni or k and n filters, probbaly will use the k-n's to flow more air to my paper filter in the box....
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I got my airbox constructed out of foam, well almost, have a little more to do, My 69.00 el cheapo wood bandsaw broke on me, It cuts foam so sweet, anyhow i got that jury rigged today, so i should be able to finish foam building tomorrow... I am building a foam model as i am going to mold from it in fiberglass, the paper automotive filter will sit down inside the box, the top will give it a tight seal, the top will be ducted with 2 hoses up to the top of the car, were it will have some oil soaked prefilters, the paper filter should realisticly last for 2 years... I got a good pleated filter, should flow plenty of air... Also adding some brake pics for another member to see...
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Airbox in the rough...
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Nice work... thatis not fiber sheet is it?
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Nice work... thatis not fiber sheet is it?
No, its hand laid on a foam /bondo plug, odypilots and myself have been working on... Ill have more tomorrow, hard part is getting off the foam, I want to try and make another one on the foam plug... Thats what air pressure is for, blast it in there and hopefully it will seperate easily...
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Just got to put the car back together now... Trying to save to replace the rad and put a new drive clutch on it, dunno if it will happen this yr...
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Are you moving? Hehe, I can imagine moving with car all torn apart. Throw it all in a box, and hope it's all there when it comes time to go back together....
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Are you moving? Hehe, I can imagine moving with car all torn apart. Throw it all in a box, and hope it's all there when it comes time to go back together....
working on it now, not moving for another month, Ill likely have it all back together by mid next week or so...
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Gonna be a southern buggy now. Hey we can ride in winter here, 73 degrees today. Almost never snows. Hell when I lived in Daytona Beach we went surfing after opening Christmas gifts.
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Pictures
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Got to figure out a way of a functioning and form approved reinforcement to the top of my caliper bracket, the top is pushed out wards wearing the pads funky.... see pics above... Problem is there is about 2.5" mounted to the chassis, and its 6" tall, just wont take the leverage on the bottom....
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Hey that rotor looks like it's shot. ;D
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Hey that rotor looks like it's shot. ;D
actually, there is not any grooves in it to catch your fingernail on, I was thinking of just hitting it with the D/A, wife has pretty much shut me down on any buggy parts, so im selling off shit i dont need to fund the project.... ;D Radiators are on there way....1 for odypilots and 1 for myself, next is the drive clutch, 399.00....
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First step straighten the bracket. ::) ;D
The bracket is stronger fore and aft, so you might be able to just brace over to the frame, with a tab and tube around the front of the caliper. (Pic 1)
Another option would be to brace across to the opposite side of the lower frame rail. I think there may be a straight shot below the motor, and in front of the FNR. (Pic 2)
Another option, make a tube brace possibly removeable depending on room to get the FNR out, from the rear around to the front, and pick up the top caliper bolt with a tab. (Pic 3 & 4)
Or you could connect it to the motor cradle and wonder why its broke after the first ride! ;D
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Im was kinda thinking the same as the last two pics, I forgot to mention, it has to attach to tubes that are red only, all the other stuff you see is removable...And rubber mounted...
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There is absolutely no room to brace it towards the trans either, at the top or the bottom...
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I will straighten the bracket first... ;D It is actually cracked on the weld now anyhow...the front to back weld, not the side to side weld... ;D
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Biggest hurdle complete, Engine is back together.... ;D
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Well this is what i am going to do i think, it will be at about 45 degrees to the bracket and the tube... I have to extend the bracket upward first, then 1" tube forward to the bar, what ya think Engineer.... Basicly what you suggested....
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Damn im getting anxious!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_F-0WwqXPxc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_F-0WwqXPxc)
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trans...
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Bug, is that a tranny that Drak designed? Or do they 3rd party it?
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Bug, is that a tranny that Drak designed? Or do they 3rd party it?
Drak design, then imitated by a guy in Oregon... Not a real bad design, the final gear slides on the final shaft to engage reverse, the reverse gear, the little tiny one you see is very thin, and they do break easy tho, but the reason it is thin, is to allow enuff room to get the main drive gear in between the two, for neutral..., and maintain the case width... besides that i think they are pretty reliable, except for the misfortune of having max gear sizes at a 4.75:1 ratio... Im debating running mobil 1 synthetic non foaming atf in it, any thoughts? thing is always burping out gear lube, and makes a miserable mess of the rear end.... I split it in half today as it is machined surface, gasket and oring less, I used brown permatex last time, this time around i used loctie 518, I guess it is ideal for alum, see how it goes, it was leaking just a tad between the halves at the bottom...
Oh i forgot, the main gear is spring loaded, it keeps it in forward at all times, no detents, the shifter has locks in it itself, and in reverse the spring is at max compression....
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I think in that pic, the little gear is in upside down... i had it all apart and just stuck it in the hole to take a pic... the bigger gear on that small shaft is in contact with the secondary gear all the time, it goes in the other half with the big part going in first, then when you slide the final gear, it unengages the primary, and sets in between them two small gear for neutral, then slides more and engages that thin gear for reverse, I better double check that bitch tomorrow and make sure it goes in revers, DOH, lol...
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Hi Bug, can I hijack for a mo?
Why not expand on th eLoctite 518 Mastergasket? Im sure not everyone knows what makes it an exceptional sealant. ;)
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Hi Bug, can I hijack for a mo?
Why not expand on th eLoctite 518 Mastergasket? Im sure not everyone knows what makes it an exceptional sealant. ;)
I dont either, When i put the top end back together, it recommended loctite 518 on the base gasket, for the compatibility with alum i guess, I assume it is exceptionally flexible, non hardening,it is suppose to fill a .050 nick,etc... Besides that I really do not know that much about it... Its red, and its gooie, and is 6.00 per tube... Btw, feel free to hijack my threads at anytime... ;D
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Here is some interesting reading material on it....
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/116320.pdf (http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/116320.pdf)
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I think someone told me that the Drak tranny used stock "Ski-doo" gears...I guess from a reverse case? Maybe?
Tom
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In laymans term. ;D
This sealant is moderately gap filling and flexible, just like so many others on the market, BUT... what makes it brilliant is the fact that it is anearobic which means this stuff cures, or hardens (but not solid) in the ABSCENCE of air.
Think about this for a sec, what is the main issue with RTV sealants? Oozes and beads which can (and do) drop into places where they arent wanted like oil galleries.
Loctites 518 WONT harden outside the joint, only inside between the faces of it. This means that oozes NEVER become beads and it mixes with all oils so it simple washes off the inside of the joint where you cant normally get to to clean up.
Its not to do with its ali compatability, its the fact that this is a gasket eliminator between rigid surfaces with reasonable machining accuracy (like ali cases).
As you can guess I love the stuff and have used it (and its predecessor 515) for decades. 8)
p.s. yes it will be sealing my chain case ;D ;) ;D
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I think someone told me that the Drak tranny used stock "Ski-doo" gears...I guess from a reverse case? Maybe?
Tom
Hmm, ill check into that, but the gears look huge, most ski doo uses gear and chains i think...
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In laymans term. ;D
This sealant is moderately gap filling and flexible, just like so many others on the market, BUT... what makes it brilliant is the fact that it is anearobic which means this stuff cures, or hardens (but not solid) in the ABSCENCE of air.
Think about this for a sec, what is the main issue with RTV sealants? Oozes and beads which can (and do) drop into places where they arent wanted like oil galleries.
Loctites 518 WONT harden outside the joint, only inside between the faces of it. This means that oozes NEVER become beads and it mixes with all oils so it simple washes off the inside of the joint where you cant normally get to to clean up.
Its not to do with its ali compatability, its the fact that this is a gasket eliminator between rigid surfaces with reasonable machining accuracy (like ali cases).
As you can guess I love the stuff and have used it (and its predecessor 515) for decades. 8)
p.s. yes it will be sealing my chain case ;D ;) ;D
Excellent Artie... Maybe we need a sticky dedicated to loctite 518...
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In laymans term. ;D
anaerobic which means this stuff cures, or hardens (but not solid) in the ABSCENCE of air.
That said Anaerobic is the key word here. With any aluminum engine trans or cam tower you must maintain zero clearance between the case half's or you will mess with the bearing clearances. 518 will totally clear out from between two half's of a case that are smooth. It will only fill the cracks or scratches. Unlike some gasket sealers that can stand off two parts by .005 to .010 when cured.
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In laymans term. ;D
This sealant is moderately gap filling and flexible, just like so many others on the market, BUT... what makes it brilliant is the fact that it is anearobic which means this stuff cures, or hardens (but not solid) in the ABSCENCE of air.
Think about this for a sec, what is the main issue with RTV sealants? Oozes and beads which can (and do) drop into places where they arent wanted like oil galleries.
Loctites 518 WONT harden outside the joint, only inside between the faces of it. This means that oozes NEVER become beads and it mixes with all oils so it simple washes off the inside of the joint where you cant normally get to to clean up.
Its not to do with its ali compatability, its the fact that this is a gasket eliminator between rigid surfaces with reasonable machining accuracy (like ali cases).
As you can guess I love the stuff and have used it (and its predecessor 515) for decades. 8)
p.s. yes it will be sealing my chain case ;D ;) ;D
Dammit,guys! You spilled the bans on how I am sealing my cases! I've had several ask and now they know. Dammit!!!! Hehehe. VW used the same type of stuff to seal their cases.IMO when sealing 2 cases that carry bearings and need to maintain tolerances it's the only way to go.
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I have been using the stuff for years on FL350 cases, base gaskets and reed gaskets. I hate to get the whole thing together then find a leak so I add it to the gaskets to start with. I use it for the reason that it will all squeeze out except where there is a nick, etc.
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I actually havent bought any of this stuff for years. I have a limited use for it while I drive a desk! I bought a tube about 6 weeks ago and was presently surprised to find the price has dropped to hell.
When 515 was around I used to pay $45 (ausie) for a small tube, now its $15, gotta love that.....
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Got some goodies... Now i can rubber mount my rad! Odypilots as well... And the throttle cable is set, for about 2.00, And some of Rick S generous time... ;D Solder free...
Ya i know my pics kinda suck, I need a light box...
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First pic is some tabs I had Rick make for Odyilots and my car, He also made the alum blocks like on his car to mount the civic rads... Should be a sweet install when done on both cars... the funky looking bracket is for my fuel pump...
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Very nice looking parts!
How did you get that little solder ball formed so nicely? I see you must have consulted a real expert. ;D
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Little solder ball, the small end is the factory end... ;D
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Some more progress....
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Hey Bug,
What is the "grab" bar behind the seat for? Seat belts? I'm 6'4" and could never fit in the car with the seat moved that far forward. My memory is shot I guess but why are you changing out the radiator? Mine has never ever gotten hot. I guess the last picture is a solid mount for the rear light? Did you add a brake light also? I did so people would know when I was stopping since the Drak stops 3 times faster than all of the pilots I ride with.
Tom
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i Just dont like the plastic tank rad behind my head, the top mount is for the rad... Ill post pics of it mounted... The bar behind the seat supports the seat i tilted it upright so i dint feel like a wigger in his delta 88... ::) Im only about 5' 8 my arms tire easy, i have found with my arms bent more they fatigue far less... My car has ran about 180, hoping it will run around 170 now... Normal operating temp for a ski doo engine is around 158 degrees... I also have decide to use the 40 mm oem rack carbs... And i have been reworking the wiring, something about a 14 gauge wire from the battery to the dash operating the fan, and the starter,as well as the digitron didnt get it for me... I also added fuses that it did not have... Im hooking the fan directly to the battery with a fuse so it will continue to run after shut down if needed... rewired the entire car for that matter, soldered and shrinked all the ends, Hopefully it will be a trouble free system here on out...
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Oh, i did not add a brake light, i dont wanna add a fluid power switch as all the lines are one piece with banjo fittings, I may add a mechanical switch off the pedal, haven't decided yet...
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Hi Bug, you can buy a bolt for the banjo fitting which incorporates the brake light switch, nice and simple and no mods to your car, try your local brake parts specialist, they come in a variety of lengths and threads. ;)
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ill check it out, on the master there is 3 banjo fittings stacked already... I think i will just buy the mechanical switch for 3.00 tho and be done...
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Doug Heim can get you the banjo bolt switches.
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Doug Heim can get you the banjo bolt switches.
I can get them as well, but i cant find one long enough in the catalog... as i said i have 3 banjo fitting stacked on top of the master cylinder, bolt is about 2" long now...
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I was too lazy to have to bleed the whole system so I just used a motorcycle rear brake switch off of the brake peddle arm. Cost me like 4 bux off ebay.com It is/was a waterproof one and has a spring that connects the arm to the switch. Took like all of a whole hour to install and wire up.
Tom
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I was too lazy to have to bleed the whole system so I just used a motorcycle rear brake switch off of the brake peddle arm. Cost me like 4 bux off ebay.com It is/was a waterproof one and has a spring that connects the arm to the switch. Took like all of a whole hour to install and wire up.
Tom
pretty sure thats what i will do... then i to wont have to bleed brakes, My supplier has one for like 3.00... Not weather proof, but its under the hood, ill mpount it right to the pedal assemby, this has an arm so i can attach it to the pedal arm with a spring... ;D
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Anyone know of someone with a left lower Evolution 1 arm? Toyman maybe? I know he wrecked some arms and thought he replaced all of them. There is a guy in California that needs one. I only have the jigs for the longer Evolution 2 arms so he would have to replace them all.
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Few more
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Waiting for some pieces from Doug so i can weld new hose bibs on the rad... He had some 90 degree 1" he was saving for a rainy day...
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Hey that turned out great. I'm just finishing up 4 extra radiator mount sets with bushings.
I'll post them in the for sale section when I'm done.
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Hey that turned out great. I'm just finishing up 4 extra radiator mount sets with bushings.
I'll post them in the for sale section when I'm done.
It worked out perfectly, Both machines did as far as that goes, Lower oem rad hose dumps right on the right spark plug tho, so the 90 from Doug will cure that...
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It is amazing what this guy can do with alum, I took a tank to him when i built the gixxer car, round tank, put a round sump in the bottom for the fuel pump, i cut it way to big, fxxker had a 1/2 gap all the way around it, the material was about .060 thick, he mig welded it in one pass...looked like it was meant to fit as well, anyhow i took my rad back to him today, the inlet and outlet were 1.5" Doug Heim sent me some 1" 45 degree fittings he cut off his rad to replace with an fittings, with what we had to work with ths guy dd a great job, he even got the lower fitting exactly were i wanted it, just had to manipulate the 1.5 a little and fill the gap, It doesn't look manufactured, because it isnt a bent piece, but it will function damn fine, and i can use all 1" hose that fits like a glove...
I still have two 3/4" ones Doug sent, if anyone needs them just ask...
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I'm very glad it worked out. Sorry they were not true 90's but I figured the price was right up your range. I'm glad I was able to help out. I love seeing the stuff I have laying around put to good use. That's some good quality welding. I have a guy I deal with that's damn good as well. I was opening up a hole for welding on AN fittings to my rads and I slipped with my barbed bur with the dremel and hit one of the veins. He welded that up too without even disturbing the fins. Ill have to take a pic one day. I swear he could weld an aluminum soda can back together!
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Like this?
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No cut it in half where it is thinist! But thats damn good! I know I cant do that!
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Dam that is some nice welding..
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After 1700 miles this weekend, i managed to get back to the shop today, fired up the car, need to source one bearing for my trans shaft and put a few things back together and its good to go, Oem mount sure absorbs a lot of the engine vibration.. ;D Hope to have it ready to go southbound by the end of the weekend at the latest..Then off to durhamtown in April..
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That would be a good thing...
Figure out how to get them hauled on the trailer yet?
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car is ready to go, support bearing be here tomorrow or weds for trans, and when Rick S gets time hes goona work on my fan mount, will bolt directly to the 4 rad bungs, And i here these will also be available to purchase for future civic rad guys...
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Dam!!!!!!!! A 20 wheeler. Mite be a little hard to turn in the rough ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Cool idea Bug for pushing it around in the shop.
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Dam!!!!!!!! A 20 wheeler. Mite be a little hard to turn in the rough ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Cool idea Bug for pushing it around in the shop.
OIh i picked them up at menards 2 years ago for 7.99 each.. cant beat them with a stick... I was gonna cut them down so the tire fit snugly between the ends...
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Those shelves are getting bare! :o Does that mean you're bout packed? Glad to see the Drak will be able to make the trip under her own power. ;D
BTW winters over, 78 today 83 tomm.
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hell thats the second garage, i got lots of packing to do, I got the 30' motorhome sitting in maysville ga right now packed front to rear and to the ceiling, lol.... I am sending the money and signing the lease tomorrow, man i feel like i won the damn lottery lol... Anyhow we are going to be about 7 minutes south of winder, in proximaty of the winder barrow airport, so when ever your ready come on down... ;D
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Good to see ya virtually all done there Bug. Comp PSI?
Can't wait to see,hear the results...ya not gonna be floggin' Davo now then are ya??? ::) ;D
We race again this Sat at Northam Speedway,so should have some more race/heelcam vids for yas after the weekend!
Cheers Baz.
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Good to see ya virtually all done there Bug. Comp PSI?
Can't wait to see,hear the results...ya not gonna be floggin' Davo now then are ya??? ::) ;D
We race again this Sat at Northam Speedway,so should have some more race/heelcam vids for yas after the weekend!
Cheers Baz.
without break in both machines were 143 lbs...
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Did ya get the house you wanted?
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Did ya get the house you wanted?
Lease is getting emailed as we speak... So yes to answer your question... ;D
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Need an update...are we there yet? ;)
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We are there, For anyone Who doesnt know or whatever My Family and I have just moved to Georgia, We are getting settled in, and still have a bunch of shit to do, Bazz, I have all the parts in a spot, just need to know what ya want and were ya want it... Hope to head to durhamtown in the next few weeks and check it out... Far to much shit to do when moving, I absolutely hate that part of it...
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Georgia?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FRtkek-Et4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FRtkek-Et4)
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I am glad you and your family all made there safe an sound.
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send me some peaches will ya? Ill trade for your next batch of parts!
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send me some peaches will ya? Ill trade for your next batch of parts!
Ill have to find some... ;D
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Thanks Bug,pretty much what we've already talked about Mate.
Maybe send me another list email of what you don't want?
I think I already sent ya my addy? Tell me if not.
How far is it from where you've left to gone now?
Shifting!....What a way of testing out the marriage ay? :o
Mangoes! Mmmmm,I just aquired some ::) from one of my mowing customers trees,it's parked RIGHT next to my Car. ;) Bliss. ;D
Forgot to add...Good luck at your new Home. :)
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Well even tho i said i would not do it, I took it for a spin around the yard today, The 40mm rack carbs feel extremly different, Hell i was running 500 mains in the 38's, i put 560's in the 40's thought it would be fat, It is way lean, Im gonna start with 720's now and work my way down... Better fat than lean to start... The throttle response is unbelievably different, I think i will be very impressed with the new carbs, and engine reconfiguration... Be a few weeks before i can get to durhamtown to find out tho...
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Well i guess i am gonna go check out durhamtown tomorrow, Going solo but i need to tune the car and get the rings seated anyway...
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Good luck with the tunng, take some pic curiou as to what the place looks like
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What size jets did you end up putting in? What range do you have? Have fun! Wish I was there!
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What size jets did you end up putting in? What range do you have? Have fun! Wish I was there!
Have not changed them, i have everything to 720... I am guessing i will be in the 640-660 range... Just a guess tho... Im going solo tomorrow, I likely will play on the 1/4 mile oval until i get it jetted and get a few laps "50" on her and broke in a bit... Then i may head to something that has some jumps, the utv track doesnt look to bad, well see when i get there... One of the mx tracks looks pretty fun to, probbaly wont go trail riding by myself, to far to walk if it breaks...
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Well , how'd it go hillbilly?
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Well , how'd it go hillbilly?
How did it go, I didnt go yet, tomorrow...
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Ah....shouldn't you be out looking for a job? ;D
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Ah....shouldn't you be out looking for a job? ;D
I should, but then i wouldnt have time to spend my lottery winnings...
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Seems to me the priorities are straight. Whats the rub? Buggy first, then work....
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Truth be known, I been working 65-70 hrs per week since i was 18 yrs old, Always have had a demanding job, Until about 2 yrs ago I began working 45 hrs a week, I am enjoying my wife and kids, Another week and i will be gray and divorced, so i will start looking harder this week, lol....
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looking harder for what? A new wife or a new job? ;D
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Just the job, lol...
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Well i did indeed go to Durhamtown today, That place is frigen Sweet, I didnt even ride the trails kept it to the 1/4 mile flat track and the utv race track and still had a blast for being by myself, I got about 8 gallons of gas ran thru the engine and did some carb tuning... I need to source some new needles but all in all she ran well... No pictures, was to busy riding and didnt have no one to operate the camera...
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Hell i may go tomorrow, LMAO... You free, Id chat via the phone a few minutes, Pm me your number... If you want...
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You got to get a job Bug, all this free time is killing me. About 3 hrs to Durhamtown for you?
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You got to get a job Bug, all this free time is killing me. About 3 hrs to Durhamtown for you?
3 hrs, More like 1hr and 10... ;D
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Prob 2 1/2 for me. Have to deal with Altanta traffic. 285 is the place to break in that buggy. ;D :police:
Ya screw that 285, lol...