600 2 seat not really a panther

[Carlriddle]

Ok got sprocket mounted, which ment I had to move the motor, rear carrier, seats, steering wheel, bla bla bla.  Now have a 55 custome rear (thanks to Ricks, member) and I think she will pull wheelies now.  Also came up with a new chain adjuster, really just keep the damn carrier from moving from dropping the clutch.  Hope all is well, probably not, but should have a good weekend to test.

[Boostinjdm]

I am so dissapointed in everyone.  Nobody mentioned tying in that motor mount.  No offense intended, but that rear mount isn't doing shit.  add some braceing to make the area where the engine and "spool" are a more solid unit.

Here is my thoughts on how to do it, you can do it however you want, but you need to do something...

[Carlriddle]

I did have the motor braced w/1 bar, and I agree it needs more.  I like the two bars, think it would be stronger.  I need some more flat stock as I wanted to make tabs for where it mount to the frame so it can be removed. 
The braces for the spool are to keep it from being able to slide.  Even when torqued to 150lb it would slide forward and allow the chain to slack.

This is why I like this site, people will chime in with and idea for a solution, instead of telling you your a stupid fook.  Lots of trial and error mostly error, nothing takes the place of a good design to start with.  That's my biggest complaint with the Panther design, too much left out for you to try to interpret.

[Carlriddle]

Ok bike all together and ready to go, but wait damn thing barly runs.  Thought I had mixed up the wires to the coils as the are aftermarket ND coils.  Mess with for 3 hrs check, recheck, double recheck and still the same.  Wants to idle rough w/occasional sputter backfire in I think cyl 3 or 4.  Thought boot loose>air leak, so sprayed some PB around to see if it would seal and I could find leak. Nothing.  Funny thing, when I swap the wires going to coils for cyl 2 and 3 thing runs the same. 
Problem is I can tell which wire going into these coils feeds which plug wire.  It has no power when you drive, will barley climb up driveway it used to go up sideways throwing shit everywhere.  Acts like its running on 3 cyl.

Any other ideas to check, I'm think wiring something loose cause it was running purdy before pulling the motor out to move it 4" forward. 

Really wanted to give her a good riden tom, going to be 70!!!

[Voodoochikin04]

these bike motors.. the number 1 and 4 cylinders move the same and fire the same time.. and the 2 and 3 move and fire at the same time.. thats why swapping the 2 and 3 wires doesnt matter. try changing your spark plugs..  in both of my motorcycles they run crappy when they need new plugs. on my suzuki the number 3 carb leaks into the cylinder and causes it to fowl and it runs crappy and has no power and revs slow as hell.

[Engineer]

Finally got a chance to paint, see if anyone is up from eating turkey.

I like the V on the back and roof, is one stronger than other??

Carl,

I know it has been a while, and I don't know if you have finished your bracing, but here is my $.02.  I like what you drew on the front, I just added one more bar up to the shock mount.  All the tubes that hold the upper shock mount are in a single plane, and it would not hurt to brace that back down to the main frame.

On the bracing for the top and rear,  I don't like the V because it braces to a dead or unimportant, non-strong point.  You would be better with the X, or even a single brace cross brace does a lot of good.  On the brace going down, depending on where your seats are, and the back of your head, I would brace down to the corner I have shown.  If there is a chance of hitting your head on it I would move it back, but otherwise that is the strongest point on your frame, and the best point to brace to.  The next joint back, that is covered by the radiator would be the next best place to hit with the bottom of the X brace.  On your picture with the V brace, it is not good to brace to the middle of the down tube because it really doesn't accomplish much.

I agree with Boostin on the bracing to the rear carrier.  A brace from the upper rear motor mount to right above your new adjuster attachment points should really help.

Hope you get it running better.

[Voodoochikin04]

hey carl. can you post the site.. or the info where you got the ball joints and whatnot for your front arms?

[plkracer]

1and 4 and 2 and 3 do no fire at the same time. One is firing, the other is exhausting. Both pistons are TDC though. If you can switch 2 and 3 and no difference, I'd say you have no power from 2 and 3. Take the caps off and it will most likely run the same, proving that you either have no spark, or a fuel problem.

[Carlriddle]

hey carl. can you post the site.. or the info where you got the ball joints and whatnot for your front arms?

Bought em at Advance Auto, just a lot of looking at what he had.  Guy was real helpful and spent prob 1 hr w/me.  Dont go when busy, they dont have time for bull.  I'll see if they have a marking ##, but I'm sure I threw out the receipt in one of my cleanups. 

I would probably use good heims with miss spacer if needed.  I'm only get about18-20 degree movement.  Threaded heim with bungs will give you ability to adjust wheel also.  Gave about $40-$50 for a pair of em'. 

[Carlriddle]

Will pick up set of plugs today.  When I first started I noticed some unburned fuel from 2 & 3 exhaust port.   Also had water around the 3 & 4 spark plugs. Prbably came from draining or filling cooling system.  That could have caused a misfire and fouled plugs too.  Damn things are 4-5" down so hard to see, stupid overhead cam.

Was told motor was a 94 and wired the coils that was before, but noticed in mauel 2-3 were swaped in 87-90.  Cant figure out year by serial ## by compairing to book, need to do some more internet work. 

Did get all the bracing done, hopfully.  Ran 2 tubes from top of rear motor mount back to frame and the rear seems solid now.   Couple diagonal in front V brace roof and X brace on back.  Have to lower my seats down as not enough head clearance. 

[Punkur67]

Just a tip if you have a thermal gun or just try this as soon as you fire the motor. You can see if any of the exhaust tubes are cool. If a cylinder is not firing the exhaust tube will be signifagantly cooler. If you start the motor for a few seconds and shut it off you can tap each tube with your finger and see if any are still cool. Use caution with this redneck method, more of a stuck in the desert method. I prefer a thermal gun. You can just shoot at eack tube with the gun and see.

[Voodoochikin04]

shoot... that what i meant!!!!!  they are at tdc at the same time.. i dont know what the heck i was thinking when i said they fired the same.. sorry for the wrong info!!!

[Carlriddle]

#3 exhaust you could touch after about 15 sec, the others no way in hell.  Bought a set of NGK plugs but not put in yet, had to go out riden bicycles today, to pretty to sit around.

Anyway of checking motor ### for year??? Still concerned about coil wireing for 2&3. 
ZX600AE095354

[Voodoochikin04]

ok well if you got the coil wiring screwed up then it would run shitty due to the wrong firing times. but... if you had them wrong, both exhausts would be cool, not just one. so you must have them right. either the plug is bad and fouling out. or you have a carb problem..

[Punkur67]

Not a bad way to find a dead cylinder huh.