I haven't kept up with all that is available but I would consider Holley EFI. Not the base units though. I forget the name right now.I agree with DS about using a tuner that is very familiar with whatever you decide to use. That or learn to tune/log/tune/log/tune etc. yourself. I personally recommend that. If you understand tune basics ,and I think you do,it is not all that difficult. The bonus is that you KNOW your system when it tells you to pound sand.

I called Wichita dyno and they only work on domestic engines.  Maybe I didn't think this all the way thru.  I think I will just bolt a holley carb to it

Where is that can of worms? Oh there it is ,we already opened it..................

It doesn't need to be permanent. Use a slip on extension,sealed up well for the tune session. Remove it after the tune session,run in open loop. The drawback to not running an O2 is no compensation for varying air conditions/altitude. It will only consider throttle position and  and airflow or mass. It will not be able to hit target AFR's via the O2.

I believe that Wichita Dyno and most shops as well tune mostly for idle and WOT such as is seen drag racing.That is pretty easy and quick to do. The attention to tuning part throttle and at various loads is very time consuming and therefore not much attention is given . All that is needed is smoothing of the cells to a nice 3d shape and it will run -OK. When the engine is usually at varying throttle and loads like we are then it becomes a bit more necessary to tune across the board so to speak.   Got home and went for a ride. Ran poorly part throttle.When I opened the tune up I found Chris had left a cell empty in the middle of the grid. It created a big funnel shape that covered the center of the grid.How/why that happened is anybodys guess but it damn sure should not have left the dyno like that. He only spent about 2 hours on the dyno. He did give me a discounted price since it usually takes 4-6 hours or so.  It was nice to see what the wheel HP was though.