TOTAL LOW BUDGET BUILD

[BDKW1]

You should be able to get more than that. I was getting 20" out of a stock length Bronco drive shaft and their short!

[Engineer]

I myself do not see a drawback to the IRS rear in the sand rockets really.

Even if you use a Jaugier Diff like they often do its not much wider than a Mendeola so travel can be similair. Since the motors weight is being carried a bit more by the front the rear should have no trouble dealing with odd terrain with as much or nearly as much travel. Just my thoughts on it.

Same for the Ford diffs and any others you might run acorss.

The only Issue that I have with the Jag is it's a Jag and I don't have any idea how available it would be or if the yoke would adapt easily etc.  A 9 inch or chevy 10 bolt truck is already gonna have a common U-joint, and a wheel pattern that will be easy to find wheels to bolt right on.  The trophy trucks all use live rears so I know it will work well.  I just think the live rear will work better within the budget, and really have no drawbacks.

On a side note, I don't think a Mendi and Jag would be comparable on travel because the Jag center seems quite a bit wider to me.  It also uses U-joint axles and uses the drive shaft as a stressed member like a Vette.  So its gonna be expensive to modify in any way, and if it breaks a U-joint, you cant even tow it.  :P  I see Sand Rocket is converting them to CV's and trailing arms but once again. $$

[BDKW1]

Can the Jag for IRS. An 8.8 out of a newer Mustang is light and easy to come by. Not to mention the amount of aftermarket parts.......

[Nutz4sand]

The Jag rear end is tough and I forget right now but its a common rear end from Dana I think. Plus its got inboard brakes fro mthe factory.

The v-12's all had Posi's while the straight 6's had open diffs. In case a person wanted cutting brakes.

But yah the IRS out of the Fords is really taking off in the Sandrockets. 

[Nutz4sand]

The Jag rear end uses a Dana 44 ring and pinion. It can supposrt a gearset ratio from 2.72 to 4.54.

Anyone got any dirt on the newer CV setups in the T-birds?

Is the new Mustang an IRS? 

[Whiplash]

Whip,
I know what your saying...Roundy roundin for almost 30 years...Hanging out in Dick Trickles pit as a 6 year old...
My 327 will be running A 2 barrel, It's already got a race prepped cast iron intake on it...1997 second in season overall points.. set up...On a 305 cranked 350
I have access to a flow bench At Superior head service  :P
I know there is alot of power to be had...And it's cheap for me to do the machine work...Since I have to drive to visit Fabr anyway...Juice delivery
I'm not too worried about more power
You forget I'm a gimp I don't need to get my eyeballs flattened, or the g-force on my body,
This is more of a no dollar build...
But really I'm just looking to building a totally NO BUDGET Buggy...Because so many people have no money but want to play...
You are really putting out good feedback,
I'll worry about swiping Fabr's drag motor after I get the travel numbers and get enough seat time in it to see If it's even feasible to have the damn thing

AH, I did not know you were in the BIZ... Cool, I used to compete with superior in the LS1 market if its the same one! Cool to hear! I can't wait to see some metal sticking together! Lets see some of the ideas! I always thought a 4WD silverado 4 linked front and rear on coil overs would be killer in the dunes with a SHAG NASTY lil small block!

[Islander]

I always got a out of how everyone seems to get all worked up when you say anything about a straight axle, no budget build!!  Everyone says just sell something and then you can drop a grand into blah blah blah.  For some of us its not that easy.  I love the idea of this build.  Instead of spending this thread talking about the merits of independent rears and bike motors, lets talk about what SPEC is building.  There are some of us who are in this exact same boat, and would like to see this happen EXACTLY how he's planning it.  The drive train layout and components are picked.  Lets see some help with how to make them work.

Sorry if that came out like a rant, but to see 3 pages on a topic I'm excited to see happen go on about everything this build is not about is kinda irritating.

As for the build, I would go with the Jeep rear, TH350 trans for the better ratio's and light weight, and the 350 for the better low end torque, as more time will be spent cruising along. 

I'd love to see a double triangulated 4 link rear built, they have excellent travel with no binding when set up properly.  Plus, if you do it I can see it built!!  I don't know how to build one personally (proper angles and such) and would love to see it done.  For the driveshaft, to keep it EXTREMELY low buck, I've seen square driveshafts work, and they have the ability to extend to almost double their length.  If driveshaft speed is kept relatively low, vibration should be kept at a minimum.  If nothing else it'll get it moving until a proper driveshaft can be afforded!!

Have you figured your steering?  I would likely use the S10 steering box (I seen the S10 rear end suggestion, so I'm assuming you have the truck!)  The reason behind that is that you can use the power steering pump and everything will hook up to the 350.  Use a modified Pitman arm with 2 tie-rod holes and extenders to get the proper steering geometry.

Wow, first post in a while!  Guess I made up for missed time, lol

[SPEC]

You guys all have good points
Islander summed it up...No money and all Junk yard parts
I was going to rob the Jeep box and Do as Islander said...I was contimplating the sq. drive shaft...Only one problem...I tossed them all In the last load of srap...SILLY FOOKING ME But I do have a couple of slip yolks off of  long box pick ups and off the jeep drive train

I do have some monsterous uni-balls for the front as well...
I should just post up pix here of the donor parts :P

[SPEC]

The bottom picture is just of a BIG ICKY SPIDER...
The skidder has a couple of Hi angle UJ's on it Now that there is snow on the ground and the BIG ICKY SPIDER is elsewhere I'll crawl under it and rob them off of it...I didn't want to run into the rest of that fookers family
Even tho I spent a few hours at LS poking all the holes in giant Taranchula mounds
Anyways
With the latest changes around here another truck to replace the S-10 isn't going to happen...So I have to learn to live with that gutless hunk O' poo...New tractor...or new truck... :P
I have heard the weak jeep rear end...Now is there a no dollar fix for that? Beefing up the case for less flex?
Or are they just all around weak in the center section?
I know we quit blowing up the metrics in the roundy's when I welded up a top and bottom truss to prevent torsional flex...I went from 2 rears per season to I ran the last one till I sold the car and retired from asphault
Engineer,
 I googled the shit out of trophy trucks
Looked and read till my were bleeding :-[
Here's what I'm kinda leaning towards...Really wide control arms...Enough room to accomodate at least a bank of 3 shocks maybe 4
With several mounting points so I can play with the rake/camber/castor
I feel...well ...er sorta...semi confident I can get cheapo atv shocks to work pretty well and support the rig

[Islander]

What about trying the coils from the Jeep?  Or using the shocks with over-load springs?  I have a set here that I got for 35 bucks a Princess Auto that are rated for 1000lbs each that I was going to use on another project way back when.  I know that they are no air shock, but they may work better that multiple atv shocks and not cost much more than 50 bucks!!  Could run them on the front and use the coils with the shocks mounted inside them with a cantilevered rear suspension with adjustable mounts....or am I getting way off base?

[SPEC]

Here's somrthing I've been kicking around in my head for awhile...but I haven't figured out how to get the articulation I need for the rear...This set up is on my 750

[fabr]

I always got a out of how everyone seems to get all worked up when you say anything about a straight axle, no budget build!!  Everyone says just sell something and then you can drop a grand into blah blah blah.  For some of us its not that easy.  I love the idea of this build.  Instead of spending this thread talking about the merits of independent rears and bike motors, lets talk about what SPEC is building.  There are some of us who are in this exact same boat, and would like to see this happen EXACTLY how he's planning it.  The drive train layout and components are picked.  Lets see some help with how to make them work.

Sorry if that came out like a rant, but to see 3 pages on a topic I'm excited to see happen go on about everything this build is not about is kinda irritating.

As for the build, I would go with the Jeep rear, TH350 trans for the better ratio's and light weight, and the 350 for the better low end torque, as more time will be spent cruising along. 

I'd love to see a double triangulated 4 link rear built, they have excellent travel with no binding when set up properly.  Plus, if you do it I can see it built!!  I don't know how to build one personally (proper angles and such) and would love to see it done.  For the driveshaft, to keep it EXTREMELY low buck, I've seen square driveshafts work, and they have the ability to extend to almost double their length.  If driveshaft speed is kept relatively low, vibration should be kept at a minimum.  If nothing else it'll get it moving until a proper driveshaft can be afforded!!

Have you figured your steering?  I would likely use the S10 steering box (I seen the S10 rear end suggestion, so I'm assuming you have the truck!)  The reason behind that is that you can use the power steering pump and everything will hook up to the 350.  Use a modified Pitman arm with 2 tie-rod holes and extenders to get the proper steering geometry.

Wow, first post in a while!  Guess I made up for missed time, lol

You're not on a rant Islander.  You are correct BUT we toss ideas around in all threads since that is how NEW ideas come about. There's plenty of room for thinking . We SHOULD stay on track and start new topics BUT it rarely happens. Hint,hint,hint.

[SPEC]

Yup It's all good
Here's why I'm kinda stuck on using the ATV shocks...This is just 1 drawer of them...I have another with works and sled Fox shox...Plus what's on my 750 :-\

[SPEC]

I was looking to maybe sell them all off on Fleapay...but with their new rating and charging fees they can kiss my sorry little gimpy ass... I thought about the bilstein coil overs...I can pick the 9" stroke ones with spring for 200 Bux a pair...But that's 800 plus of a less than 1000 dollar budget

[Islander]

I hear ya, a bargain may be a bargain, but if you only have so much....my S10 that I'm starting mine with only has $600 into it so far, and that includes buying BOTH trucks