DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => "AP" Member Project Logs => Topic started by: dsrace on March 20, 2022, 03:16:16 PM
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well i got scotts red rail home. time to start some modifications and quite a few repairs.
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going to cut the front end off to swap out to my newer version. i need to think long and hard on the multi link rear end. i like them and know them well but that damn 091 side starter is just in the way. on my blue v6 rail i ran u joints that stuck out 1.5" farther then the cv's. the rail currently has a 105" wheel base and is just under 13' long. scott left me this rail in his will when he passed. he started modifying a few things after he got sick. he wasnt in the right frame of mind when he started and not a huge surprise when your faced with an inoperable brain tumor.
so i need to strip parts of the frame back down and redo and i will just cut the entire nose off and build new with my a arm front end kit.
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Scott is smiling down on you.
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Scott is smiling down on you.
thanks fabr
i believe he is too
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Nice DS. It doesn't look to be in too bad of shape. I think the last time I saw this was when Glenn was pulling it backwards
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Nice DS. It doesn't look to be in too bad of shape. I think the last time I saw this was when Glenn was pulling it backwards
i remember that trip well. so that rail sat in his trailer for a few months before we rolled back into his garage. that was the last time i ever heard the engine start. he decide to add a 6th link at that time. the tabs are not lined up down the center of the cv. he modified the carriers as well for 5/8" heims and started making an eps system for the front. he also blew the head off the shock and i have the new shaft and oil in rt. so the front end on the rail has never been right since it was slammed into the earth to avoid a grain bin during a wheelie. it needs my new front end, scott new it but he didnt want to cut through his powdercoating. where the tabs were added for a 6th link is in a spot not easy to cut out. so i'll just pull the engine and cut those entire tube sections out and bend new. infact i have a few ideas to reconstruct better. still debating 5 link vs a arm........real tough choice. need to pull the shock and check clearences for an inboard mount.
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There is a devine reason your trans is delayed you know.
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could be for sure.
speaking of trans.....i called and spoke with sean at weddle yesterday. i just like to keep in touch for updates. he said at this point we are now looking at 6 to 8 weeks before they have the parts they need to finish. interesting enough he said mendi 2d parts are 8 months out.
budlight, dont break your trans again :m
so it sounds like the out of country place they had making r&p's has had issues due to covid. so apperantly there are only 3 machines they can make the r&p sets out of that material in the world?? so they have diversified to a german company as well as the 3rd place. will get them from all 3 now. same goes for some vw style parts needed for the medi's and hv series. they are being made in house or by 2 or 3 outsourced companies now.
there is more info on that subject but i didnt listen that well ;) not after i heard 6 to 8 weeks :nw
fabr ,like you said theres a reason. so i have some real plans for scotts rail. it needs to be a safe and functional rail as my daughter and grandson will be in it as well as my son in law.
i do not have enough room to start on it in a serious manner until my truck is complete and now another week out on the brand new (not remanned) injectors.
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really debating a arm rear end or 5 link. i say 5 link because there simply isnt room for a 6th link with that starter there......not with cv's anyway. i do not want to space the cv's off 1" or more to make room either. i do have 2-1.25" cv spacers on hand though. thought about the 7/16" cv grease plates, because that would space the cv in toward the axle and away from the pivots . 7/16" at the wheel bearing carriers. by doing that, ( at the trans side) the inner cv would not only be spaced 7/16" out but the pivot would need to be an addition 7/16" out farther yet to match the pivots at the carriers. that would be an easy 1" spacing and might work.
i pretty much have decided to cut the cage off and build new. there is only like 4" over my head to the roll bar. my son in law is taller and the cage is to close to my head while sitting in the seats.
i will need to remove the uprights between the upper and lower frame sections to spread the front of the rail up 3 " more. that is for my new a arm design. need atleast 13" between upper and lower frame tubes so the upper a arm doesnt hit the frame during the up stroke.
spent sun cleaning the roof of his GN trailer as the roof sealant had begun to fail. so i resealed the entire roof just to be safe. my rail is currently residing inside of that trailer as well. went from sat and sun to 1" of slushy snow today!!
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running into some clearence issues. can anyone think of any reasons this shock configuration wont work/shouldn't be done??
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i know the sunlight blows out the cell camera but nothing i can do about it.
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I keep thinking that it will introduce a larger "Out of plane" load on the bearing carrier, thus getting more load transmitted to the upper and lower links. But it would work. :nw
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it would definitely apply more load to the upper link. there i no good way to make this one a 6 link with the starter where it is located. so i considered using a 3/4" heim and tie rod , in steel, for the upper link to handle the increased load . even mapped out how to get that rod under the shock location centered over the stub axle. these are type 1 to 930 stubs and the cv's are rcv's high angle or so they claimed. cannot rotate beyond 26* as i discovered when i bought them with the turbo busa build. they advertise 28* and sent me a video showing they rotate at 28* on a lathe but that's one cv on that axle not a pair. for some reason they will not operate at that angle as a pair. i have tried clocking them 4 diff ways. so the cv's are directional in the sens of a snap ring on the end of the axle. i use fill circle spiral clips so that would matter so i wonder if they both have to be facing the same direction vs facing each other? i doubt that it matters but they dam sure don't operate at 28*.
so with the current 23" axles there is only 13" of wheel travel. that is because the rear link scott added hits his coolant line. with the rod back in its original location it doesn't hit it. i have the cv's at 25* currently and at full droop the frame would have 21" of ground clearance in the rear. with the 10" wide rims on at full droop the bfg at tires are an 80" track width. so it does fit between wheel wells on a standard car trailer or a wide utility trailer with side rails. i have to take these things into consideration as this will be residing with my daughter and son in law. well after i field test it a few times until my hv 24 shows up ;D ;D ;)
i do like the look of the inboard shock mount. i also have a spare set of 28" axles i am going to try ( thanks for the donation brian N ) to see how much wider that will make it with dirt tires on. they may just have to buy a deck over to haul it on. i do need to mod the carriers a bit to repair some mod work scott started. the rail went many years on 1/2" heims on the rods and failed on his last trip. of course they were in need of chromoly replacements long before the last trip as they were worn out and low carbon steel hiems not self lubing sealed ones even.
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he had bottomed the rail out quite a few times and tweaked the frame a tiny bit. trying to set this up so the shock bottoms out first or at the very least so they both bottom out at the same time rather then the frame hitting with 4" of shock stroke left.
i am thinking 18" to 20" of usable wheel travel would be enough for a good ride.
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only a tiny 5" diff in length :m :nw
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in the pic you can see the new shock shaft and misc parts to replace the parts that got lost and the bent shaft from that mis hap in the gate . got those thurs and need to rebuild that shock so i have so more room on my bench lol
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so with the 28" axles ( at 25* ) it now has 20" useable wheel travel with 4" gc at full bump and of course 24' gc at full dropp with 31" tall tires. 14" stroke fox coil assist air shocks. with bfg at's on 10" wide rims, 3" back spaceing ( at full droop ) its 91" wide. that will fit on a deck over no problem. with paddles on.....it will be 5 or 6" narrower then my old blue v6 rail.
so the longer axles also fix my shock clearance issue to the frame and bfg tires. it was tight and had rubbed in one spot on the coils a couple time.
i can make a 6 link work but it comes at a cost. the wheel leans out 1 to 1.5* at full bump. thats the wrong direction but the only spot on can clear the starter. i'll have to think on that a while longer.
at 25* i believe i can still use the cv boots like budlight69 uses. easier to check bolts with those.
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running into some clearence issues. can anyone think of any reasons this shock configuration wont work/shouldn't be done??
Works for me. Clearance is clearance.
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That laid over shock will take a lot more spring and valving though.
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That laid over shock will take a lot more spring and valving though.
correct but it solved clearence issues with the 23m axles.
now the 28" axles solved the clearence issues and added gc in a way i can now acheaive 20" of useable wheel travel. i can still mount the shock on the side as well and use the existing lower mounts.
i still really like the looks of the inboard shock mounting position. i did get the other shock rebuilt. it was damaged and dissasembled 8 ish years ago. parts came up missing but all were in stock amazingly enough.
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running into some clearence issues. can anyone think of any reasons this shock configuration wont work/shouldn't be done??
Works for me. Clearance is clearance.
dan neilsen text me asking about the cv assembly write up glenn had posted way back when. do you know if that is still on dts ? if so can you post a link?
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SFAIK every topic ever posted is here. You'll need to find it.
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Found it as a sticky in Automotive Powered section under Motor and Drivetrain.
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Found it as a sticky in Automotive Powered section under Motor and Drivetrain.
thanks and i sent it on to dan.
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my brand new injectors finally showed for my truck. the rail will have to be put on paause while i fix my truck. learned a valuable lesson as to why we dont buy remanufactured injectors! didnt know and now i do, best part is that lesson only cost me $1800 lol
so i bolted the shock back on the one side to move it. it will actually mount farther in for more tire clearence. it was so close with the dirt tires it just about rubbed the paint off the coils. interesting part is the wider stance matches up with the front tires a lot better. i have a 1.25" tie rod in place of the left side coil over. you can really see the diff with the 5" longer axles.
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for reference
https://dtsfab.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=23954e81f665bfa3a5aa42349abf52f1&topic=1959.0
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had to move for now to start on the truck. scott did a nice job on the side panels. thehy look waaaay better in person then a pic but in the sun they really look good. once i change the front end the panel will not fit any longer.
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Glad to see that you’re working on this brian. I think that fabr is right, Scott is looking down on ya and smiling.
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the 2 of you could be correct or he's shaking his fist at me for cutting through his powder coat ;D :nw
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He'll get over it.
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i agree
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pulled the fuel tank cap and looked inside with a flash light. it looked like a block of brown cheese that split and dried out. must have been half a gallon in there the last 8 years.
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pic of scott at my 40th b day party
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no updates on the red rail. got put on hold due to some household priorities and then hail damage. took adjusters 2 weeks to show up and still waiting for their results. so in the mean time i am replacing windows and odds and ends myself. i do have a game plan set for the back end and the front end may just get put on hold as my rail needs to be repaired too.
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haven't gotten any more done on the red rail but.......
my new hv24 showed up !! dd:
redrail may have to take a back seat and go back in the trailer for some more hibernation!
sorry don't have any pics yet and it's 50 lbs heavier then my megasand.
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Cool!!!! 50 pounds heavier=a hell of a lot more reliable. Worth every ounce.
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keep us posted with some new fab pictures and side by side of the old tranny and new!
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We had almost a week break from the triple digit heat index's. Haven't done nothing to the rails , haven't even unloaded the trans. I have a few home projects I need to finish and that requires early morning out door work.
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You going to be ready for this fall @LS?
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So the entire fuel system needs to be replaced on Scott rail. Ordered. New 1t gal fuel cell, pre filter, pump, post filter and fuel injectors. I will have to clean the fuel rail somehow. Could not find a new one of those for this older 1994 Bonneville 3.8. The old fuel dried up in the bottom of the tank and looks like hard and cracked epoxy. The radiator was 80 to 90% empty as well. Saw a few drop on the corner after I tilted the back end jacking it up. I'm hoping its the radiator and not a bad intake or head gasket and the motor filled up Nd rusted the cyl walls . We will see but after a recommendation from big Dave from a while ago, I bought one of the aluminum 2000 Cherokee radiators with triple fans. Low profile so easy to mount and says 3 core.
(https://i.postimg.cc/tZqm8QvL/20220927-203334.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZqm8QvL)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dDSSNf2x/20220927-210104.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dDSSNf2x)
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15 gal fuel cell , deciding on which direction to aim the sump. Imca legal speedway tank.
(https://i.postimg.cc/VdZ5B3MD/20220928-213759.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VdZ5B3MD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KRWvgtSW/20220928-213854.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KRWvgtSW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tYs9y7ZN/20220928-213910.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tYs9y7ZN)
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The radiator in the above pics is brand new and no good :m damaged in shipping. Ebay purchase and seller shows he has more but chose to refund my money instead. Ordered another and it showed yesterday. Its less damaged then the first rofl
(https://i.postimg.cc/VJSc2kGS/20220926-101329.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VJSc2kGS)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KKBhvsyx/20220926-101342.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKBhvsyx)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0r81PfX1/20220926-101500.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0r81PfX1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BXVr5GSJ/20220926-101518.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BXVr5GSJ)
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The new less bent. Hit on the corner on the filler neck and jacked the threads on the cap. No problem on the cap but bent the core a bit
(https://i.postimg.cc/4n8qZThp/20220929-125437.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4n8qZThp)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5Ys7xwjf/20220929-125738.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5Ys7xwjf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YLjXjhmY/20220929-125919.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YLjXjhmY)
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Speedway no longer sells the fans post fuel filter system i use on my rail. So I went with a 100 micron pre filter and all they had was a 45 micron post filter. The fass screw on filter Is 10 micron. Oh well I guess.
On another note......I and Scott used these fuel pumps on both 3800 engines. Great long lasting 12v pumps that claim 125 psi. Lasted many many years frame mounted.
(https://i.postimg.cc/N5WWP9F5/20220928-210926.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N5WWP9F5)
(https://i.postimg.cc/WFbKJ0Wf/20220928-210935.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WFbKJ0Wf)
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https://youtube.com/shorts/Y_vi8VZTt6o?feature=share
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https://youtube.com/shorts/aF5um8sILvc?feature=share
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https://youtube.com/shorts/F1pJYDmYKG8?feature=share
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Good to see that you are making some progress. Did the UPS truck run over the box? Damn
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It always happens when time is short.
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Do we assume you are trying to get Scotts rail ready to bring to LS? What about yours and the new HV-1?
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Good to see that you are making some progress. Did the UPS truck run over the box? Damn
Pretty sure they air dropped it w/o a parachute :nw going to work on it all weekend as well or right after I mow.
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Do we assume you are trying to get Scotts rail ready to bring to LS? What about yours and the new HV-1?
Your assumption is correct, key word is trying. Lots of surprises around every corner.
My rail and the hv 24 haven't met yet ;D I need scott mobile before I start on mine. Mine is parked in his trailer currently as thats a full winter project. I have some other. Hanves in mind for it as well.
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i made some progress on the red rail last this weekend. i have to constantly remind myself to just get it done and stop trying to improve the design. i spent the majority of the day building a fuel cell mount. i wanted it as low as possible and detachable. the tank bolts to the mount and the mount bolts to the frame. i wanted both easy to unbolt as i am getting older and my knees don't bend like they used to. i guess i need more hemp oil ;D ;D if both come out then removing the trans is a lot easier. i also wanted the 15 gal fuel cell to hold the fuel pump/pre filter combo i will be running on his rail. so a 2 in 1 mount and i had to tach it in place piece by piece with the tank leveled with the frame. i know i know , 15 gals is a lot of weight but this rail is already a tank. stock 3800 v6 so pump fuel and and 15 gals should last a couple days and can be driven to the pump!! ;) ;) lol
going to stop at speedway motors tonight to get some more AN fittings. i would like to say the rest of the AN fittings but i seem to need a couple trips to get it right :m i don't have any pics of anything yet and i need to cut 2 upright tubes off that go from the rear engine bay to the top of the cage. need to relocate them and want to add a bend at each end to give them a slightly diff look. now that the tank is mounted the new twisted radiator need them moved to be easier to remove and install. i want everything easily accessable with rails as its going to my children. i still need to finish grinding off the a couple radius rod tabs and weld new in. one spot on the frame to re inforce. need to go through the wiring and didnt re locate the shocks as i have another idea so we don't widen the track width. also need to weld up the bearing carriers and pick up some more radius rods.
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Made some progress on the red rail last couple nights. Been a real struggle to find time and even more of a struggle not putting it back in hibernation to work on mine!!! Giving this one to the kids so it needs to be finished and done in a way I won't need to walk anyone though lots of repairs! I have to continually stop myself working on this rail. I have a nasty habit of designing things to be shoe horned in and that won't work for this one. Everything needs to be easily accessible and easy to work on.
I do have a fair Mount to finish but if I get the radiator housing built tonight a d the last 2- 6 link link tabs made and welded in then its all downhill from there. Have to make coolant lines i. The bender and all the fuel lines but the rest is bolt on ........for the most part :nw
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I know the feeling. I hate thrashing to get stuff done but sometimes a deadline is a good thing for making progress happen.
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the rail is going to the kids. i will be driving it for a while as they don't yet have a solution for storage or transportation. as i will be driving it while i fix/build a new rail i will expect some comfort and performance ;D ;) :m
still not done with the house repairs from that hail storm. its just crazy how slow that work force is or i should say how understaffed and in demand they are.
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the older you get , the busier you get.
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Sneak peak.
Going to try my spin on the older 3 link design using the semi trailing arms off a 2021 kawasaki krx 1000. I am planning on utilizing 4 inboard links ( radius rods) rather then 3. I chose the krx for a few reasons but has the main arm I was looking for. So the arm is 49" long and only $340 each new. It pivots at the bearing carrier front edge.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bGtYRm2d/20221024-144344.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bGtYRm2d)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/9R92G0K9/20221024-144359.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9R92G0K9)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VdWYGS6B/20221024-144420.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VdWYGS6B)
This design is not going on the red rail i am working on. This will be something I play with refining for my rails winter project. I have designed, built and ran many 4 link, 5 link and 6 link systems. Then went to a arm and they all have pros and cons but shock placement is so limited on the multi link systems and very touch as to location over the axles. My hopes is refine this style to fit my use. Kawi has 21.5" travel with 4" gc at full bump. Anything between 20" to 22" wheel travel with a min 4" gc at full bump with my idea of min toe change will be perfect. I have ran 18" wheel travel, 20",22, 24 and even 26" on my v6 rail. All on fox air except the v6 which was coil assist air. With a properly tuned shock 18 or 20 is more then enough. The diff in ride in 20" vs 26" isn't noticeable imo.
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I see what you were telling me now. I also think the design is legit. What i don't like especially since I tend to overbuild is the material thickness at the hub attachment point. IMO only I think they were designed to be minimally strong enough for the weight of the kawasaki krx 1000 rear but should be perhaps beefed up in that area. Along that line of thought the rest of the arm may also fall into that enough but not overly so. I understand and agree with your thoughts about ready availability and economical if needing replacement but......... Anyway ,yes,I think your idea is valid in concept.
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this is what the stock rear knuckle looks like for those semi trailing arms.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zL7mLTbP/s-l1600.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zL7mLTbP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KKxSv0zM/s-l1600-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKxSv0zM)
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Very very interesting...
So interesting that I think it deserves its own thread and a plead to DS and all..
From experience I have found that image hosting sites can hold ransom and literally destroy tech forums threads if they get greedy and/ or shut down. (photophuckit comes to mind..) If we upload our visual candy to DTS, it stays with the forum...
Carry on..
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Yes and YES!
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I agree and I would except my phone creates pi ture files that exceed dts limits. I haven't completed. Deep dive but a quick scan didn't provide me with an option to resize. I will have to look closer or send everything to my email to be resized and uploaded.
When I get into the actual testing I will create a dedicated thread. On that note I would not use the stock carriers. I did not buy them. I pre fer the automotive wheel beating/hub combos with 930 cv/axle combos with the option for 934 components. That pic was off ebay to simply illustrate what stock is.
So for those that have half way paid attention and/or seen any of my 4 link, 5 link or 6 link builds in the past can guesstimate the forward rods were shorter then 3'. I still have the rods from the turbo busa build.......35" and Scott's rail are 33". I say this because 49" is substantially longer which will create less of an arc. The arc lengthens the wheel base but does not rotate the carrier. In the case of this krx arc will be less especially if I reduce from 23.75" of wheel travel to 20 to 22". I'm thinking strongly about 22" front and 20" rear. That would reduce the arc even further possibly allow me to develop -2* camber vs the krx -1*. Not sure that actually matters on the rear end in the sand especially with paddle tire with a more round top crown.
If you look at the arms you can see the factory sway bar links. One could set up a sway bar if one desired. My track width will be 10" plus wider then the krx so not worried about roll overs. There is another mounting spot for something. I don't actually know what it is but I'm thinking. Bolt on bracket for external bypass shocks, prob 4" shorter stroke then the c/o based on. Location. Bolt on would keep them easy to replace. Would still add some bracing to the side
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just noticed the price increase.
base price on the weddle hv24 i bought was $8k. i added the internal pump with a few extra's and it was $9k shipped. a dealer and sean at weddle warned me that there would be a 25% price increase first of the year......across the board. well i just saw the price increase and it's not 25%! it doubled in less then 1 year like cost of living has.
https://weddleindustries.com/products/HV24-TRANS/HV24-TRANS
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i see the mendi 2d's are up from $7k to a base price of $11k now !!!!
wonder what a new fortin or albins cost now!!
https://weddleindustries.com/products/MD2D-TRANS/MD2D-TRANS
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fabr...... this is what i was trying to explain about the improved shift assembly in the hv 24
https://weddleindustries.com/products/new-products/new-precision-weddle-hv2-shift-linkage
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i see the mendi 2d's are up from $7k to a base price of $11k now !!!!
wonder what a new fortin or albins cost now!!
https://weddleindustries.com/products/MD2D-TRANS/MD2D-TRANS
I'm too scared to even think about it.
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I assume you got the hv24?
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I assume you got the hv24?
Yes I did, ordered end of Nov '21, took about 6 months to get it. Is still sitting in the crate looking good.. Enemy looked at it once lol. Looks good and am excited to get it installed. I have to fab my own mid engine shifter for it as they don't offer one yet.
With the rising prices they will push a huge portion of duners into sxs's imo. I looked to see if they had a price for the 5 speed 2d budlight runs but couldn't find one. The seq Glenn put in laces rail is way up as well.
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I paid 20K for my used Fortin with torque converter and a box of spare parts way back. Haven't regretted it yet. BTW,I did spend a couple hours on the dunes today. Beautiful weather.
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I paid 20K for my used Fortin with torque converter and a box of spare parts way back. Haven't regretted it yet. BTW,I did spend a couple hours on the dunes today. Beautiful weather.
I'm a bit jealous on the dune time.
So your used fortin was close to what the new hv24 cost :m cannot imagine what the new forties run!
I had heard Mike has an issue with his trans. I hope its a cheap fix!! I'm sure bud light knows.
I do like my turbo 4 cyl but an N/A very isn't off the table either. No matter the frame I have room Nd the trans will handle clean 5.3 like v8. Pump fuel, plenty of tq, a stock ecu with tons of aftermarket support and waddle makes an ls bell housing so I think I could use stock sized clutches. I would pre fer the 5.0 coyote motor but are they proud of thos used. Just. Thought not decision. Kids don't he room for Scott's rail so I will be running it While.
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The sand was powdery as I've ever seen. The powder covered the entire south face of each dune with a big ,tall pile of it at the bottom. The pile was so deep/high that my exhaust tips would dip into the pile and muffle it for a brief bit.
Your HV24 is only about 40 pounds lighter than a Fortin FRS5 like mine. The HV should be the last trans you will ever need buy.
As for engine,wellll, turbos/superchargers are miracle workers but you can't discount the reality of KISS. Bigger,badder N/A and the much broader torque band,and the simplicity that goes with it is hard to beat for all around dune use.
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Sounds very soft and deep. Definitely don't want to slow down in it! I have been in that deep soft blow sand and was an interesting experience. Not sure if its the same as what you just ran through or not.
Taylor is the one that got me thinking about the 5.3 v8. He said the aluminum version was only 400 lbs. My iron turbo 4 cyl with turbo is 400lbs. Mine is an inline 4 so plenty of room for a v8. I was speaking with a person earlier today that buys the Chevy's to part them out. He has 12 -5.3 like engines currently, no aluminum versions. He thinks those are 2010 ish and up. He suggested the 4.8 v8 as I guess with some head work they can turn 9k rpm? Would need to look into that deeper to verify the other stock components can survive. So the iron 5.3 crate engine supposedly weighs 525 lbs. I say supposedly as thats what the Chevy dealer states the crate motor weighs. I could see an all aluminum saving 125 lbs hell the esslinger aluminum head for the 2.3 shaves 30 lbs off the head itself.
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Of course the v8 is just myself tossing around an idea. I also like the idea of thecoboost 2.7. My engine hasn't run correctly since day one. If not a poor cam choi e then a poor turbo choice. It is what it is and the 5.3 v8's are a dime a dozen . On a stock ecu running pump fuel they'll last as long as they last. Same can be said for the 2.7 or 3.5 ecoboost. Not sure about the stock manifolds holding to offloading with the weight of the turbo but one could always try.
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You have some torque/hp numbers for those engines? Be nice to see some dyno charts. what's the reliability of each running higher rpms?
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Sounds very soft and deep. Definitely don't want to slow down in it! I have been in that deep soft blow sand and was an interesting experience. Not sure if its the same as what you just ran through or not.
Taylor is the one that got me thinking about the 5.3 v8. He said the aluminum version was only 400 lbs. My iron turbo 4 cyl with turbo is 400lbs. Mine is an inline 4 so plenty of room for a v8.with that comparision it would seem like ditching the 4 banger anchor would seem a no brainer I was speaking with a person earlier today that buys the Chevy's to part them out. He has 12 -5.3 like engines currently, no aluminum versions. He thinks those are 2010 ish and up. He suggested the 4.8 v8 as I guess with some head work they can turn 9k rpm? Would need to look into that deeper to verify the other stock components can survive. So the iron 5.3 crate engine supposedly weighs 525 lbs. I say supposedly as thats what the Chevy dealer states the crate motor weighs. I could see an all aluminum saving 125 lbs hell the esslinger aluminum head for the 2.3 shaves 30 lbs off the head itself. Go aluminum,don't compromise. Only reason I went with a cast iron block is for the needed extra strength. Most aluminum blocks aren't rated as high hp capable as the iron versions. In your case you won't be adding much,if any,hp so the weight saving is a great trade off to any possible extra strength the iron block may have. My .02
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You have some torque/hp numbers for those engines? Be nice to see some dyno charts. what's the reliability of each running higher rpms?
Interesting enough there are many videos on YouTube with a base line on the stock engine. With a header, and simpl3 bolt on parts, 303 rwhp and like 325 rwtq. Not a power house but that tq is there off idle basically. These are just ideas bouncing around in my pinball game thought process :m :nw the 5.3s are a dime a dozen but they don't seem to last a long time. The general statement seeks to be 150,000 to 200,000 miles. Sounds like they start using oil at or before 150k. Just what I read, not my statement so all gm lovers don't jump on me :m. Upon further reading, the 4.8 is out of the equation. Limited production with a shorter life span then the 5.3. How i would run that 5.3, need to find a 50k mile engine to start ;)
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Ample torque from idle up is a plus,IMO. Pretty much the reason I'm building more inches/longer stroke. The short stroke nascar relic has more than enough tq/hp for hard pack. Usually enough for sand. The extra 3/4 inch stroke should make me happier in the sand.
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makes perfect sense to me!
so first and foremost i am going to set this turbo 2.3's cam timing to the correct point. true the exh manifold one more time and see what it does. if it still doesn't perform stumbles as it has been then it will be up for sale on turbo ford forum and FB. at that time i will be deciding between the stock 2.7 eco boost or a 3.5 if it can be found for a decent price. if not then then either the 5.3 aluminum or the 6.0 aluminum. it needs to be a common v8 so that it is easily replaceable at the junk yards. i don't mind installing an aftermarket ecu to clean up the tunes and/or a dyno tune to set a base for the ecu but i want pump fuel and a dime a dozen like the 3800 series II and III were or are still. the bottom end of the 5.3 or 6.0 will be plenty at st a or at LS for the way i dune. boosted would be nice to offset the alltitude but honestly a decent tune on 91 octane will still perform well.
on a diff note, the only diff between my 2.3 and the ford 2.5 is the stroke. its not cheap but i think one can build a 2.8 in this block as well. prob with doing so is that it gets expensive in a hurry! the yellow/purple rail douggy bought from scott smith has/had a stock turbo 2.3 turbo in it. that motor out performed mine in spool time and bottom end, prob a touch more mid range as well. it damn sure didn't make as much power but with the hot pinto cam mine went all on top. with the stock ranger roller cam in it did a lot better but still that turbonetics turbo was a poor choice for dunes. that custom hybrid holset turbo was a bad choice as well and that was with the hot pinto cam. the current bo port stage 3 head with 2.1 cam is a huge step up in all 3 ranges until the manifold warps. that happens on the first run on every trip for 3 years now. the busa never ran like it should've and i am 99.999999 % sure why , after the fact and now the 2.3 has never run as it should or perfromed as well as douggy's wore out stock 2.3. not speaking about top hp .....i'm speaking up bottom end and mid range spool up and accel.
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i was just surfing again looking for an aftermarket set of trailing arms off the krx1000 and cannot find them. i did run across some interesting pics as i have wondered how long the axles are on the krx1000. so based on a 930 non plunge joint i know that the housing is less then 1.5" thick. if there radius rods pivot at the center of the cv's as they should on non plunge then 25.5" front center of heim to center of heim joint would put that krx axle at 28" imo.
i dont have a non plunge in front of myself at the moment. if i remember correctly, .62" is half the thickness. you still would want atleast .5" sticking out the back side so call it 1.125" per side or 2.25" total. so that 25.5 plus 2.25 founded up is 28". now that cv's they use are a tad bit different so i have no idea how much excess protrudes from each cv. i'm guessing extremely little at the stub axle .
of you look at the pic of the hub/trailing arm with the blue radius rod on it, you'll notice the knuckle slants back from bottom to top. that is because the rear frame does. they seem to have matched the pivot point dead on with that design.
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Got one axle ready for install, then align, fill coolant and fire off. 9* today and snow on the ground so no test runs anytime soon.
(https://i.postimg.cc/k6MyXzJQ/20230129-203157.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k6MyXzJQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HrQ00dj0/20230129-203147.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HrQ00dj0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QFr1dwSF/20230129-203135.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFr1dwSF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FkLk9VLb/20230129-203121.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FkLk9VLb)
(https://i.postimg.cc/v4Mxs9H9/20230129-203112.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4Mxs9H9)
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Rear coils seem a Bit heavy at 325 primary and 400 secondary. The left rear wheel bearing carrier ( knuckle) was damaged in the accident and no parts available currently to build a new one. I cut a portion apart and rebuilt what i could to use it for next year. It will be safe but creates a camber glitch that shouldn't effect it too much. I hate cv grease! Just in case no one knew that rofl I would really like to convert it to micro stub axles. Who knows if those parts are available either. I did repack the wheel bearings while I had both carriers off.
Went from , 1/2" low carbon non lined heims to 5/8" chromoly lined heims . Scott started to add the for a 4th link so I finished that. Cut the down tubes off the back of the roll cage and moved them to make room for that new aluminum radiator. Pre filter, post filter and fuel pump all in one spot. All an fuel lines and converted to series II coil packs, ign module and wires. Easy bracket to convert that part. Rewired half the harness and pulled the square spot lights and replaced with an led light bar. I have a 20" curved bar for the nose too.
Also added a tube into the roll cage between the seats. Not only adds support but needed a place for tank vent tube. Added a concave rear view mirror and an additional tube in the roof of the roll cage. Added 3 led dome lights as well.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NKfTXmqt/20230129-203102.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKfTXmqt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RJL66Vgq/20230129-203049.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RJL66Vgq)
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Axles are in, tq'd to 45 ft lbs. Need to find tq spec for type 1 930 axle nut. Tried to post pics direct but file size is too large.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SXLCvPF3/20230129-230725.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SXLCvPF3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rRs4zF02/20230129-230718.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rRs4zF02)
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Looks good as always with you! I assume you will make it to LS this spring? BTW,what's the status of your buggy?
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Looks good as always with you! I assume you will make it to LS this spring? BTW,what's the status of your buggy?
I have not gone above and beyond with this rail. I have improved upon several parts but there is some damage that I'm not willing to repair. Its not unsafe by any means but nothing i do will ever truly fix it. I have spent many hrs testing ideas but the ripple effect is just to wide spread. It truly needs a new frame and a new rear cradle with micro stub set up. That type 1 to 930 is limited at 25* on the cv's , remaining narrow enough, on dirt tires, to load in a trailer. Im not spending $1300 for 4 non plunge cvs on this one. When the back was bottomed out ,multiple times, before the upper motor mounts were added, it ripped 2 trans mounts and lower motor mount. That all got rolled back and welded but it had all moved and stretched. So the trans is rocked 1.5* and all things considered thats not bad......if your just looking at the trans. The frame is twisted almost 1.5* itself. Again, unto itself thats not bad. With the trans leveled, the left front wheel is 3" off the ground while the rt it touching. So I could cut the trans mounts out and start over. I would need to cut the lower cradle out and build new. Chassis is still twisted but I could adjust for some in the rear cradle. I don't like the narrow frame for elbow room nor the narrow roll cage for vision either. I could cut the upper cage off and change that. It would be easier to build a new frame altogether and better off imo. I don't want to, this will make a great starter rail for my daughter and won in law.
My rail....... :m....... my poor rail hasnt seen direct sunlight since the fall trip of '21. Been in scotts trailer hibernating, awaiting repairs. If I can wrap scotts up this weekend, once the snow is gone, it will trad places with mine.
At this point I plan on making the spring trip. I have a site reserved as well.
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Sounds like a plan!
I've decided I will not likely take on any more major projects. Just too much BS with all the delays and such to make it fun anymore. I have several upgrades I will do ans such though. FWIW,I have nothing more to do to prove to myself I can do anything if I want. The challenge is welllll,gone. Time to just enjoy.
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Making good progress DS, hard to imagine that the frame is twisted that much.
Sounds like you got the winter blues there fabr. You will have more big projects someday, you just can't rest THAT much! ;D
I was lucky again this trip with no big repairs needed besides CV's. They were really loud the last trip. But I am really behind on several other big items here, and then I need to take care of my dad's house. It's going to be a busy spring, I am hoping to make the trip
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Making good progress DS, hard to imagine that the frame is twisted that much.
Sounds like you got the winter blues there fabr. You will have more big projects someday, you just can't rest THAT much! ;D
I was lucky again this trip with no big repairs needed besides CV's. They were really loud the last trip. But I am really behind on several other big items here, and then I need to take care of my dad's house. It's going to be a busy spring, I am hoping to make the trip
truly am sorry to hear you lost your father! that sucks no matter what age!
cv grease sucks especially swepco 101 :m it's so stringy but that's a good thing too.
when he lost the heims he waded the left rear corner up and hit the fence post at the dunes. when the heims let go, it rolled the knuckle and bent it a bit. bent the shock shaft, ripped the lower shock head off, actully left dents in the tube frame and wasted a limit strap. that was on his last dune trip.
there was an incident at his grandfathers farm ;D riding a wheelie across the drive and thought he was going to hit the grain bins so he hit the brakes, slammed the front end into the earth and bottomed the nose out hard. never could get the front end correct after that.
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Sounds like a plan!
I've decided I will not likely take on any more major projects. Just too much BS with all the delays and such to make it fun anymore. I have several upgrades I will do ans such though. FWIW,I have nothing more to do to prove to myself I can do anything if I want. The challenge is welllll,gone. Time to just enjoy.
I completely understand!!
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Yes.Mitch,sorry for your loss.
As for no more big projects I guess it all depends on how big big is defined as. :m :nw
Actually,I know of a certain toterhome that is due for a remodel............. Drowning
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So toter home remodels are fun projects! ;D
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: :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m :m
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budlight, did you get your back up trans back yet? did the r&p brian N sourced for mike make it to the trans shop?
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budlight, did you get your back up trans back yet? did the r&p brian N sourced for mike make it to the trans shop?
I got it back just last week. They could not find anything wrong, had it laying around for 7 months, but I didn't really bug them about it. They finally found that a part that used to be only for the 5 speed was installed, but Weddle changed it a few years back to be common with the 4 speed, so the part had wrong splines and would work, just not very good. He said mine was the very last 5 speed built.
Mike had the R&P delivered to the tranny shop, no word yet on when he might get it back. He is working on electric power steering now before he sends the frame to powder coat.
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budlight, did you get your back up trans back yet? did the r&p brian N sourced for mike make it to the trans shop?
I got it back just last week. They could not find anything wrong, had it laying around for 7 months, but I didn't really bug them about it. They finally found that a part that used to be only for the 5 speed was installed, but Weddle changed it a few years back to be common with the 4 speed, so the part had wrong splines and would work, just not very good. He said mine was the very last 5 speed built.
Mike had the R&P delivered to the tranny shop, no word yet on when he might get it back. He is working on electric power steering now before he sends the frame to powder coat.
Glad to hear its all sorted out.
Mike will enjoy the eps for sure. The way you two run those trails i bet that will be anoticeable difference.
How long should we wait before convincing him he needs car to car?? :m
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Contacted translation, he has years of experience with the t1 to 930 stubs. He said 225 ft lbs and tighten until the cotter pin hole lines up. The repair book for 1970 beetle says 217 ft lbs tq.
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Rear end is aligned and back on its wheels. Coolant is vac filled, I really like that tool! Just poured 5 gallons of fuel in and looking for the batt tie down before I try and start it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MMKB5d5N/20230205-133243.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMKB5d5N)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bSZtcrKR/20230205-142657.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bSZtcrKR)
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Vacuum filling cooling system is great.Only way I do it anymore.
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so she fired up and idles really good for not having started for 8 years. the wiring schematic looked like the pcm was sending a neg signal to energize the fuel pump and cooling fan relays.....i guess i read it wrong :m turns out its sending positive voltage. re wired the fuel pump and need to re wire the cooling fan relay. i installed a bypass switch for the fans but wired it as a grounding circuit. so i need to pull the center console apart and re wire that too. scott wired 2 leds into the console ,1 of which is to see when the fans turn on. i will wire that back in. i meant to but forgot and didn't want to open it back up. well i get too now and not the end of the world if this is the only issues i have after building a new harness! jacked it up and ran it through the gears to get the oil coating everything again. new gen 2 coil packs, wires and ngk plugs stopped the black smoke and woke it back up! will be fun to drive once the snow and ice has melted. the fuel pump leaks out of the positive terminal post. i bought it a year ago so there is no warranty. i ordered a replacement tonight and should probably order a 2nd for a spare. no other fuel leaks other then that and no coolant leaks. i left it on vac for 10 mins and never saw a loss before i filled it.
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jj: jj:
Red rail will ride again!! Awesome
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supposed to be in the upper 40's to low 50's until thursday....then snow again. as soon as possible i will be running it down the road! was great to hear it run after all these years. no sure on the rear coil rates. but it will make a dune trip with the 325/400 to get a base line. he went that heavy so that he and his father could ride in it.
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https://youtube.com/shorts/ea6hkYiUkho?feature=share
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so she fired up and idles really good for not having started for 8 years. the wiring schematic looked like the pcm was sending a neg signal to energize the fuel pump and cooling fan relays.....i guess i read it wrong :m turns out its sending positive voltage. re wired the fuel pump and need to re wire the cooling fan relay. i installed a bypass switch for the fans but wired it as a grounding circuit. so i need to pull the center console apart and re wire that too. scott wired 2 leds into the console ,1 of which is to see when the fans turn on. i will wire that back in. i meant to but forgot and didn't want to open it back up. well i get too now and not the end of the world if this is the only issues i have after building a new harness! jacked it up and ran it through the gears to get the oil coating everything again. new gen 2 coil packs, wires and ngk plugs stopped the black smoke and woke it back up! will be fun to drive once the snow and ice has melted. the fuel pump leaks out of the positive terminal post. i bought it a year ago so there is no warranty. i ordered a replacement tonight and should probably order a 2nd for a spare. no other fuel leaks other then that and no coolant leaks. i left it on vac for 10 mins and never saw a loss before i filled it.
I wired all my big buggy negative switched. Switches carry fewer amps that way and should last longer as well.
I let mine sit under vac for a few hours. A few minutes bit me in the ass a couple times.
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so she fired up and idles really good for not having started for 8 years. the wiring schematic looked like the pcm was sending a neg signal to energize the fuel pump and cooling fan relays.....i guess i read it wrong :m turns out its sending positive voltage. re wired the fuel pump and need to re wire the cooling fan relay. i installed a bypass switch for the fans but wired it as a grounding circuit. so i need to pull the center console apart and re wire that too. scott wired 2 leds into the console ,1 of which is to see when the fans turn on. i will wire that back in. i meant to but forgot and didn't want to open it back up. well i get too now and not the end of the world if this is the only issues i have after building a new harness! jacked it up and ran it through the gears to get the oil coating everything again. new gen 2 coil packs, wires and ngk plugs stopped the black smoke and woke it back up! will be fun to drive once the snow and ice has melted. the fuel pump leaks out of the positive terminal post. i bought it a year ago so there is no warranty. i ordered a replacement tonight and should probably order a 2nd for a spare. no other fuel leaks other then that and no coolant leaks. i left it on vac for 10 mins and never saw a loss before i filled it.
I wired all my big buggy negative switched. Switches carry fewer amps that way and should last longer as well.
I let mine sit under vac for a few hours. A few minutes bit me in the ass a couple times.
i too always try my best to use the switches as ground circuits when possible. in this case, for a bypass for the cooling fans and fuel pump, the pcm is sending power vs a ground. my fuel pump didnt show yesterday as originally scheduled and now it's looking like monday....what a surprise :m i am trying to use the pcm to control the fans based on the factory temp sensor rather then a stand alone unit. the stand alone is nice and i have never had issues with them but already spent plenty to revive this one and the low and high fan leads are there and un used. i left the check vavle in the fuel pump just because it may provide quicker restarts but i think i will delete it while installing the new pump. doesnt actually need to be there imo.
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So I got the fuel pump swapped out. Replacement isn't leaking so thats a hug plus. Fired right up and idles smooth. Found the issue with the fan control wire and the fans turn on and off. Let it run until the fans cycled twice. It started blowing gray smoke out the left tail pipe. Only after sits a solid 1 to 2 mins at idle and you goose it. If you ease the throttle in it doesn't blow gray smoke. It does not smell like oil or raw fuel. My first thought was the brand new fuel reg wasnt working correctly. If that were the case it would be blowing gray smoke from both sides. If it were valve guide seals it should smell like oil especially with this short exh. I got a gut feeling its coolant and these intake manifold gaskets are known for leaking coolant past the intake gaskets. It looks like its been changed before but no way to know for sure anymore. Really need to work on the front too. Technically il the front end could make a trip but wouldn't be great.
My old blue 3.8 v6 neverbhad that issue but the intake manifold was bypassed on it. No need to heat the manifold up if I am only running it in the summer, unlike a car. Scott plumbed the temp sensor into the intake so no matter what the coolant has to be drained again.
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Could also be valve guid seals i suppose. Its weird cause its only when you goose it. If you ease into the throttle it doesn't smoke. Idles smooth and throttle response is dead on just goosing it. It started doing this 8 years on Scott's last trip but I thought it was black smoke.
Doesn't do it on cold start up, not until there is some heat as in 90* is heat. Does not do it on hot restart. Only when you let it idle for a min or two and goose it.
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Pull the plugs and post pics if you wish. Pull them after idling for a bit as you said but do not goose it.
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Cyl order for left side, crank pulley to bell housing, is 2, 4, 6.
so what i see is one plug looks shiny brand new white. either it's sucking coolant and getting a steam bath or the other two are burning a touch of oil. the one looks like some oil but smells like varnish. all of them smell like varnish except the bright white one. the only thing i couldn't replace was the fuel rail and i cleaned it out as best as i could. fuel was still liquid in it but smelt very bad. new inj's as well and supposed to be a matched set...... i say supposed to be as who actually knows. no 02 sensor so it runs in open loop and a tad on the rich side. i unplugged each inj, one at a time and each cyl is firing.
#2 drivers side
(https://i.postimg.cc/fkv0X3d3/20230220-182140.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fkv0X3d3)
#4
(https://i.postimg.cc/tYCnzXdB/20230220-182307.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tYCnzXdB)
#6
(https://i.postimg.cc/jWNDjCKS/20230220-182425.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jWNDjCKS)
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All new plugs, cooling fan has cycled 5 times with them in. Let it idle for 5 min at temp before I pulled them. Only smokes after its got some heat in the motor. Does not on cold start or primary warm up.
the Side that isn't smoking.
Cyl order crank pulley to bell housing #1, #3, #5
#1
(https://i.postimg.cc/LqMHNDKm/20230220-183247.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LqMHNDKm)
#3
(https://i.postimg.cc/f3Kh5hfv/20230220-183634.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f3Kh5hfv)
#5
(https://i.postimg.cc/VJg7Vs25/20230220-183812.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VJg7Vs25)
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https://youtu.be/5PEm6fV9NRk
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Dead give away on #4 burning water or coolant. If you had a bore scope to see inside of cylinder the combustion chamber/valves will be quite clean as well.
Are the new plugs ran only at idle?
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Dead give away on #4 burning water or coolant. If you had a bore scope to see inside of cylinder the combustion chamber/valves will be quite clean as well.
Are the new plugs ran only at idle?
I have an inspection cam that will fit down the plug hole. #4 is steam bath white alright lol
So the oem paper lower intake manifold gaskets are. Known fIlure point. Felpro makes a metal replacement version and I picked one up. This issue was starting when Scott made his last run 8 years ago but I thought it was black smoke.
Briefly, Spoke with enemy about it last night. It does need to be run as there is def crud built from sitting and possibly a sticky ring or 2. It fires off in 4 to 5 cranks, no pulsation or surging during cranking like a weak cyl. Idl3s smoother then my 2005 lesabre commuter car :m
#2 looks like it a touch on the dark side to me. That cyl was one that had a bad coil so not sure how much build up is in the cyl either. A lot of unknowns when engines sit too long.
I have not driven the rail yet. I have only started it, let it idle and rev'd it as seen/heard in the video. It has hit operating temp 5 times before last night. The 3 plugs on the pass side were interesting with tan coloring on only half the ceramic, front to back and not top to bottom.
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Dead give away on #4 burning water or coolant. If you had a bore scope to see inside of cylinder the combustion chamber/valves will be quite clean as well.
Are the new plugs ran only at idle?
I have an inspection cam that will fit down the plug hole. #4 is steam bath white alright lol
So the oem paper lower intake manifold gaskets are. Known fIlure point. Felpro makes a metal replacement version and I picked one up.I would use a thin coat of either permatex ultra gray or hylomar on both sides of it. This issue was starting when Scott made his last run 8 years ago but I thought it was black smoke.
Briefly, Spoke with enemy about it last night. It does need to be run as there is def crud built from sitting and possibly a sticky ring or 2. Many years ago a Chevy service procedure was to run a fully warmed up engine at a high idle around 1800 IIRC and use a spray bottle of water to put a heavy mist into the carb/throttle body for something like 15 minutes to clean out crud like that/carbon and free up stuck rings from bad fuel or whatever. It fires off in 4 to 5 cranks, no pulsation or surging during cranking like a weak cyl. Idl3s smoother then my 2005 lesabre commuter car :m
#2 looks like it a touch on the dark side to me. That cyl was one that had a bad coil so not sure how much build up is in the cyl either. A lot of unknowns when engines sit too long.
I have not driven the rail yet. I have only started it, let it idle and rev'd it as seen/heard in the video. It has hit operating temp 5 times before last night. The 3 plugs on the pass side were interesting with tan coloring on only half the ceramic, front to back and not top to bottom. Seen that lots of times. Not out of the ordinary with likely injectors that are fouled from sitting. Mix some ethanol into the gas to maybe around 20 percent and run it for a while. It will be a bit lean but should run OK and clean some of that old fuel deposits.Drain fuel and refill with fresh. Might likely make a big difference.
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inj's are brand new.
i like the idea of a mist of water in the intake to clean it! i bought a can of sea foam i that basically does the same thing.
i started working on the front end last night and a decision has be made by friday night! keep it or cut it off and install the updated version. frame is a lot narrower then i want to work with. up and down frame section not width wise. width wise is the issue with the current front end. that's 100% my fault and i learned a lot since i designed and built it. it has suffered some damage since then but the core design is an issue and was the 3rd i built. swapping to my latest proven front end will change the look of this rail and add 8 to 10" of length. there is no way around that unless i swap the foot pedal to hanging with remote reservoirs. i don't think i can tame down the current front ends bump steer issue to a tolerable or what i consider a tolerable level. already bad enough i will be losing eps but $hit steering too rofl no :m
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How much bump steer are you seeing and why are you losing ps ?
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Scott never eps , mine does.
So back when we built the last set of a arms for his rail, I thought the bump was all toe in. I stated back then that we just need to cut the frame and install the new a arm cradle. His frame is narrow from top to bottom and would have to cut a lot of supports out as to not change the overall look. I stopped caring about the overall look last night :m
I really don't know if I want to answer the question of bump steer rofl I don't know how he managed , especially w/o eps ! ;) 1" of toe out to 1.5" toe in. Thats worst case scenario imo. 2 days work to swap front ends, 1 days if its not mine LMAO
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That much bump steer total or each side?
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That much bump steer total or each side?
combined
i have not set anything straight lines to measure per side.
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So I really messed that answer up. So each side has 3" of bump steer. It goes from toe in to toe out. I spent the entire day Sunday working on the right front only. Made small changes and even set up a straight edge to measure it for sure. 20" wheel travel with 4" ground clearance at full bump. 1st 1nch of stroke and last inch are major jumps. So if I could reduce stroke by those 2 inches i could keep it straight on the payment with a finger. Thats not going to happen :m The absolute best I can adjust out is down to 1.75" toe in and no toe out. I can reduce that to 1.25" toe in but I wind up .5" toe out and again this is just one side. I have an extra eps on the shelf so cutting his bump steer roughly in half and adding the eps should be fine in the sand.
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I will spend the next couple nights testing/adjusting the left front individually. One might be worse then the other. Or if I get lucky for once on this project it will be better then the rt side.
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Is it just the location of the steering arms or is the issue the inner pivot points /rack location relationship causing the issue?
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Hard to explain. Its a combination of angles. In this case the a arms are pivoting on a rake that creates an arc. Normally if your toeing in you would raise the tie rod but this is opposite. The rack pivot points are in the wrong location. Basically if I could make longer arms and use the center travel it would be fine but at its extremes it goes wild. Currently a 10" stroke shock, an 8.5 would be great but not going to happen.
(https://i.postimg.cc/hh8zbVGQ/20230226-153616.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hh8zbVGQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qNqNTYx2/20230227-175758.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qNqNTYx2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5HFjHCG0/20230227-175857.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5HFjHCG0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HcwxzCT1/20230227-175901.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HcwxzCT1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FkGKtgfP/20230227-175919.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FkGKtgfP)
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I see the rack ends are not in line with the a arm mounts. Would adding a spacer to lengthen the rack width cure the issue? I wouldn't want to do it that way with that style of rack though.
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When I first built this I had it controllable on the pavement. Once he set it down at the farm and bent something it has never been right, not even after building 2 new sets of a arms and diff spindles. I have never figured it out and longer a arms would simply make the track width too wide imo. So pushing the front end to 20" of travel from 18" was a mistake. Thats what the 10" stroke coil overs are from. Originally had 2.0 fox Air in the 8.5" stroke.
So, about your idea on basically a rack spreader, not a bad idea ;D installed longer clevis, for Scott's last 2 trips. He had them made locally out of 4130 chromolly or atleast special them that way. Didnt fix the problem completely and he bent the clevis. In the pic, I cut the shank in half to get past the bent section. Basically with an 1/8" of original length.
The issue is the a arms are pivoting in a multi directional motion that the rack isn't happy with to the extreme angles. I modified both tie rods last night and put the wheels back on. Going to stroke the front end as a whole tonight and see where it is at. I was going to adjust the left side separately as I did the right but, my gut says, I'm simply wasting too much time on a lost cause.
I'll know for sure tonight.
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It toes out at full droop and inat full bump? Is that correct?
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no. i assembled the front end w/o shocks using just the limit straps. the c/o shocks are listed as 10" stroke but with the coil carrier on they are actually only 9.5" usable stroke. i always forget that about coil overs. the limit straps suck the front end down or the wheel up 1". i know they can stretch but over time but these are old and eat 1". with wheel one and front end aligned to properly map the front end but with loose bolts and jamb nuts. i mapped the front end to know for sure. the drivers wheel is the worst of it for some reason. cannot figure out why and don't care at this point. i know from experience with this style front end that even with 1" total toe in, on the pavement ( if you gun it and then let off the throttle ) is barely felt and no issues keeping it straight. not saying that is the correct design and the reason i completely re designed them. with a 9.5" usable stroke you truly only get 19" of wheel travel. i moved one 1/8" washer from the bottom to top of the stack before the below measurements. as many know, 1/8" tie rod location change makes a bigger diff then most think!
i mapped a true 20" wheel stroke, not accounting for the limit straps with 4" gc left. i know it won't see the last inch of the 20" of wheel travel but i was there so i mapped it anyway.
instantly goes toe in. ;D note- using the Stanley alignment checker thing a ma bober :m
1"- 7/8"
2"- 1 1/8"
3"-1 3/8"
4"- 1.5"
5"- 1.75"
6"- 1.75"
7"- 1.75"
8"- 2"
9"- 2"
10"- 1.75"
11"- 1.5"
12"- 1.5"
13"- 1 3/8"
14"-1"
15"- 5/8"
16"- 1/4"
17"- 0
18"- 0
19"- toe out- 1/4"
20"- toe out- 7/8"
technically, i could align it with .5" to .75" of toe out reducing total toe in but adding .5"/.75"to total toe out at 19" of wheel stoke. i don't ever want to see this front end bottom the front shocks out, but, it is always possible in a bad situation. toe out is no good at all imo! have a saturn vue eps, just need a controller. i think i can add it to the front end which would lighten the feel of the bump steer. honestly i don't think 2" of toe in will be horrible in the sand. its damn sure not good! but still controllable imo.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8f6xkCg0/20230228-213217.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8f6xkCg0)
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I know you don't wish to spend any more $$ than needed but I found this https://www.performancetrends.com/SuspAnzr.htm was the best $299(now) I ever spent many years ago. What you did in hours and hours can be done in minutes once familiar with the software which is very easy and intuitive. I found it invaluable. The time you spent mapping it out could have been better spent with the learning curve of the suspension analyzer.I will never ever again do a front geometry design or analysis without it.
As a side note you are ,IMO,cycling the front end ,as you are, with a jack (or a cherry picker, etc.)is the correct way with the tires resting on the ground thereby taking into account the slop in heims. I've seen a lot of people raise the car to full droop and place it on stands and then using a cherry picker or whatever to cycle the suspension. That will definitely not work.
On the big buggy I found that I had to mount the rack within .050 of what the analyzer said or the results were a geometry disaster. Yes,very small changes in position of all mounting points make massive toe change results. The point I am making is that it is very difficult ,as you know,to get a proper working suspension.
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Have you toyed yet with the rack position? I'm betting you can improve the toe change by either raising/lowering or moving it fore/aft or a combination of both . There again I find the suspension analyzer program very,very useful and time saving.
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We actually have discussed the analyzer before. I had intended to purchase a set..
I abandoned this suspension design for these very reasons. I refined it and eventually got it down to 1" total toe in and 0 toe out. However, I was not able to ( in good conscience) tell anyone my front end had 0 bump steer with that design. That is what spawned the new design and ita a solid design that is easy to tune with out bump. That analyzer would be very handy once all the measurements were added to it.
I have approx 20 hrs in this front end now. That includes removing corroded shock bolts. Absolutely no idea how that happen but those zink plated grade 8 bolts were oxidized enough it took a 3 lb hammer to get them out. To complicate that, some how some way, one lower shock bolt (grade 8 -1/2" ) bolt was ever so slightly bent. Had to drill out the 1/2" shock mount passages to clean that all up. I didn't think I was going to get that corroded bent bolt out. All but 1 heim were low carbon steel , w/o liners so all of those were wore out 10 years ago. 75% of them sounded like baby rattles they were so shot. Now, all chromoly , all lined self lhbricationg heims. Once removing the extended clevises for the rack ends, I measured and cut them down past the bent spots to standard length. Had to clean the threads a tiny bit on the ends. Once I got all that replaced I clamped a straight edge to the side of the frame,, for a fixed point, to test 1 side to get a direction.
So Scott opted for 3/4" heims on one end of the tie rods at the steering arm. With that size mis alignment spacer, that leaves room for 2-1/8" washers for adjustment purposes. . Once I cut the clevis down I had to cut the steel tie rods in half and add adjustable splices.
So tie rods heims, were adjusted up and down, rack was moved forward and back 1.5". Caster set at 10* and -1* camber, 1/4" up on tie rod spindle side and 1" back or inwards on rack. Also noticed the front a arm heims ( at the frame) were to tight of and angle and digging into the mis spacers. That wears heims very fast etc etc. So rocked the back of the a arms out to lighten the angle and now didnt need a 1" rack spacer. That worked out quite well.
The rest of the issue can only been seen in person.
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We actually have discussed the analyzer before. I had intended to purchase a set..
I abandoned this suspension design for these very reasons. I refined it and eventually got it down to 1" total toe in and 0 toe out. However, I was not able to ( in good conscience) tell anyone my front end had 0 bump steer with that design. That is what spawned the new design and ita a solid design that is easy to tune with out bump. That analyzer would be very handy once all the measurements were added to it.
I have approx 20 hrs in this front end now. That includes removing corroded shock bolts. Absolutely no idea how that happen but those zink plated grade 8 bolts were oxidized enough it took a 3 lb hammer to get them out. To complicate that, some how some way, one lower shock bolt (grade 8 -1/2" ) bolt was ever so slightly bent. Had to drill out the 1/2" shock mount passages to clean that all up. I didn't think I was going to get that corroded bent bolt out. All but 1 heim were low carbon steel , w/o liners so all of those were wore out 10 years ago. 75% of them sounded like baby rattles they were so shot. Now, all chromoly , all lined self lhbricationg heims. Once removing the extended clevises for the rack ends, I measured and cut them down past the bent spots to standard length. Had to clean the threads a tiny bit on the ends. Once I got all that replaced I clamped a straight edge to the side of the frame,, for a fixed point, to test 1 side to get a direction.
So Scott opted for 3/4" heims on one end of the tie rods at the steering arm. With that size mis alignment spacer, that leaves room for 2-1/8" washers for adjustment purposes. . Once I cut the clevis down I had to cut the steel tie rods in half and add adjustable splices.
So tie rods heims, were adjusted up and down, rack was moved forward and back 1.5" Did you raise/lower rack as well?. Caster set at 10* and -1* camber, 1/4" up on tie rod spindle side and 1" back or inwards on rack. Also noticed the front a arm heims ( at the frame) were to tight of and angle and digging into the mis spacers. That wears heims very fast etc etc. So rocked the back of the a arms out to lighten the angle and now didnt need a 1" rack spacer. That worked out quite well.
The rest of the issue can only been seen in person.
I would think there is a mount point that will get it better yet. This is why I love the analyzer. In the time it takes to test physically you can test a hundred in the software.
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You are correct, there is a better location ! I found it rather quickly but its more time consuming and not sure I can swing that right now. That location would be in in the 2 yard dumpster outside rofl for now I will zip it up and go for a drive down the pavement to see how bad it feels.
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:m :nw
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The rack does need to move back. I moved the spindles forward to accomplish that plus I needed to lighten the angle on the a arms forward heims. However, by doing it that way , it leaves me even more clearance to move the rack back. Making. Spacer plate for the rack isn't a big deal at all. Only takes 5 mins to test by mounting the tire rod outside the clevis.
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So am at an end with the front end. I made new tie rods and painted them yesterday. I will run it as is for the summer as I have run out of want , to work on this any longer. I held the power steering in a couple places but it just isn't going to happen right now. Wound up taking the rack apart to clean and grease it too. The rack was mounted a touch crooked so I adjusted that as well. Hope to have the front end buttoned up tonight.
Then I will drain the coolant Nd swap out the intake gaskets. I bought a head gasket in case I don't see the point of the leak. As that doesn't start until there is some heat in the coolant, I'm better its a tiny spot or maybe a crack in the manifold, who knows. I hope to be driving it next weekend........ then it goes in the trailer and mine comes in for tear down!!!!!!!!
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8) 8) 8) 8)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/xq6JtqLY/20230313-175923.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xq6JtqLY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jwZ5gkwv/20230313-220318.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jwZ5gkwv)
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I pulled one of the front coil orders apart last night. I had noticed that there is a longer primary spring vs the secondary. Seemed backwards to myself but there are lots of combos for dialing in shocks. I don't like that at full droop the slider is off the shock body .75" either. So the longer/taller primary coil is 12" 200 and the secondary is a 10" 350........ on a 10" stroke coil assist air shock. The 2.0 coil assist air shock has a taller/longer body then a standard c/o does and a 1.25" shaft vs 7/8. A lot heavier coil rates then i would've chose but I know he swapped out to them as there were plans of his father joing him on more trips.
Front end is back together so no I'm changing the intake gasket and she should be ready for a run this weekend if we don't get the snow they are forecasting tomorrow. 70* today, snow tomorrow :m
(https://i.postimg.cc/tsfCXqsQ/20230314-222750.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tsfCXqsQ)
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Forecast was for 70 @ LS today ----------------------with 23-55 mph winds. I was going to go down but eff that with the wind. Would be smooth sailing though.
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So is little Sahara dumping grounds for the hazardous waste disposal company?
https://www.koco.com/article/oklahoma-stitt-toxic-waste-ohio-shipment/43283276
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LOL,I don't think so but......................... The facility has a waynoka address but it is located south to hwy 412 and then east a bit. I doubt it should be a concern. We had a Clean Harbors here in Coffeyville for many years and they burned a LOT of haz materials, there. Never a problem. I'm pretty confident that Clean Harbors operate the Lone Mountain facility responsibility. Of course my kids have 6 fingers on each hand and webbed toes so what do I know? :nw :m :m
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Good to know
And
LMAO LMAO rofl rofl
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Been enjoying a very giving cold! So I pulled the upper and lower intake on the 3800 last night. Could not find signs of a leak i to #4 cyl. Infact, cannot see how coolant would ever vet past those gaskets to the center 2 cyl intake tracts. #4 is a middle cyl. So I went o line and searched for common issues with upper and lower intakes. I assumed I was looking at a cracked aluminum lower intake or worst case the head. Turns out that just under the throttle body , on the plastic upper intake, there is an egg port with coolant flow. If that o ring goes out or the plastic upper manifold warps from heat, that can leak into the intake and manifest as smoke out of the tail pipe. Found out last night that 1995 and up isn't the same as 1995 ;) so title read 1995 but build date is 7/94 so damn split year model with last years parts. New gasket sets just showed so we will see.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ygwJpFgT/20230321-222554.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ygwJpFgT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/v4N66FYj/20230321-223610.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4N66FYj)
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Nice and easy fix!!!!!! 8) 8) 8) 8)
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I hope it is and expect it to be. Had a bun h of arronds to run last night so didn't get back to it.
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The way gm ported the coolant passages to the egr and civil are Very intersting. I used a blow gun to trace the passages on upper and lower intakes. There is a hose that comes off the water pump that is a direct passage, through the lower intake that feed up into the egr port through the upper and back down to the lower, ported back into a y intersection . So I tapped the lower and silicone plugs. Permanently blocking the egr coolant port. That way if there is a crack in or around the ear itself coolant cannot even get to it. The plastic upper , ear coolant ports, have degraded and the inners had broke down not applying enough pressure to the o ring but can't be where it was actually leaking. The odd part is that its only in cyl #4 and still suspect the head. We will see.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vc4nFBxB/20230325-110644.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vc4nFBxB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5HSYqQTP/20230325-110649.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5HSYqQTP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qgRhyRLL/20230325-110654.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qgRhyRLL)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1gs4t5XD/20230325-110658.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1gs4t5XD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8sM8ydtP/20230325-111916.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8sM8ydtP)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/WhTyXBdX/20230325-111921.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WhTyXBdX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vds8drWf/20230325-113118.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Vds8drWf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8f1qJ9WK/20230325-113317.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8f1qJ9WK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gLkTkRF1/20230325-113824.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gLkTkRF1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/S2Vg5s2d/20230325-121025.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2Vg5s2d)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dkQB8YHy/20230325-121121.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dkQB8YHy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0YSxtRB/20230325-121126.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0YSxtRB)
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I'll let it sit overnight and fill the coolant tomorrow and fire it off. The gasket set did not come with a throttle body gasket but I pulled it anyway. Gm really missed the mark on cooling the egr port! I see why the plastic warps there and had they ported that into the aluminum tb that wouldn't happen. The plastic upper did start distorting at the tb edge where the coolant is ported in and enough the sand actually started to wick in. Cleaned all and added black rtv and re assembled. All back together now so we will see. Still wouldn't think that would only show up in cyl #4 but stranger things have happened. Going to run it either way until it gets worse or blows I guess. Short of all that its got to be a cracked lower internally or a cracked head or head gasket. No pressure seen in the radiator though and its weird it only beginning once its 100* or better. Time will tell and those motors are cheap to replace. Didnt the any pics of the tb and cleaned the butterfly plated and housing while it was apart. Starting to form a slight ridge where the butterfly sits while closed.
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And of course it snowed again last night.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Yv35Zs8z/20230326-074524.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yv35Zs8z)
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Gave all the silicone and adhesives 1.5 days of cure time. 47* ish yesterday and 95% of that snow was gone. A little wet still but not bad overall. After I got home I changed the oil, vacuum filled the coolant, hit the lug nuts with the impact to be safe lol and fired it off . The very minor intermittent miss is completely gone and the motor idles quieter. Smoked for quite a while with the coolant that went down the intakes. Took it for a maiden voyage, a few 1st gear runs in the drive just to get it to temp and hear the fans cycle once. Glad i did as i had forgotten to replace a missing bolt in one of the steering u joints. Steering wheel pulled out but not bad as it was in the drive. Then ran it down the county road and struck 5k rpm in 3rd a few times.
I have a 3" larger od steering wheel i will install as the lack of eps is noticeable ;D brakes are a 2 pump just to slow down so need to bleed them, clutch slave needs. Led to as it had a few moments as well. Not used to those shifters but getting better. Doesnt have the power I remember my old blue one did but that had a series II 3.8 v6 which stock , had another 30 hp and 24 lbs lighter I think. Either that or the punch of the turbo 4 has just been superior even though it has never been right due to mechanical cam timing.
Very happy to drive it after all these years. I do need to check the alternator again. The engine died a couple times during missed shifts and I wonder if the alt is glitches or the iac needs replaced. I know when I checked the alt output a couple weeks ago it was only 13.5 to 13.8 , fluctuating, at idle. Rev it up to 1500 to 2k rpm and it was only 14v but that is a fully charged brand new optima battery. I question it because my series II 3.8 in my commuter car is 14.1 to 14. 4 consistently at idle. The alt wire to the battery was burnt off of this alt as well. I took a horrible video trying to hold my cell while driving it and cannot upload to YouTube off my phone for some reason.
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Took it for a another "test run" last night since the sun was out and it was low 40's again, Heat wave lol. So topped off the coolant and only needed half a qt. That vac fill system works sooooo well. Tighted a few bolts that I knew I forgot. Bled the clutch and brakes. Brakes are 10x better but not great and may not be by design. The clutch slave cyl got worse and may need to be replaced. I only needed one gear so I took off anyway. Turns out if you pu.p the clutch 5 or 6 times quick you can shift lol I will dig into that tonight. Luckily the slave and master cyl are both available and speedway is on my way home. This rail def needs a small lift to pull a wheelie but I got it. Didnt expect it to launch like that so caught 1' of air and was trying to as that better left for 4 or 5 test run. :m
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Sounds like you will have it whipped soon. Do I assume you will get the new tranny into your rail for next spring run?
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Sounds like you will have it whipped soon. Do I assume you will get the new tranny into your rail for next spring run?
Short of some catastrophe, definitely spring 2024. If everything goes well and I don't change my mind or second guess myself to much, then possibly fall trip 2023.
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The 3800 series III has 25 to 30 hp over the series II and 26lbs lighter then series II. Now series II has 25 to 30 hp over series I ( which is in scotts rail with series II coils on it now) and 22 lbs lighter then series I. Series II and III have more sensors but series III is drive by wire. I am not a fan of that for off road. Thats my opinion and I would swap throttle bodies back to series II but then you would need to have a dyno with hp tuner software tune the oem ecu if one is running oem. I am in this case and did on my blue v6 with 3800 series II.
I say all that as this series I has 3x more bottom end tq then my turbo 2300 but .......... thats all it has over it !!!. This v6 lacks the punch and top end of the turbo 2300. Now the series II has more top end then series I or atleast in this case as rev limiter hits at 5600 rpm vs 6450 with the series II. Yes I have hit the rev limiter several times in the test runs. Need to know if its going to window the block or not while there's time to swap it out.
My turbo 2300 has never run to its potential for damn sure but what a difference that punch makes even with a leaking exh manifold the last 3 years!
I've taken this one as far as I will. I will run it until mine is back on its wheels and then I'm giving it to my daughter and son in law to enjoy and maintain. May not be top of the line but....
A far cry nicer then a beam /swing axle combo with a slightly warmed up air called engine.
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https://youtube.com/shorts/pYy01anmn0U?feature=share
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https://youtube.com/shorts/RH5_OwHUtlk?feature=share
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Took my dad for a run
https://rumble.com/v2fj7d8-testing-a-sand-rail-march-272023-father-and-son.html?mref=22lbp&mrefc=4
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8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) Turn that cam around next time. I wanna see his expression!
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8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) Turn that cam around next time. I wanna see his expression!
:m he was filming with his cell phone or I would. If I get him to go to the dunes for a trip I will definitely turn the go pro around.
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South end of my drive has an small uphill run. I was stabbing it in 1st up that portion and starting to pull small wheelies before tire broke traction or bounced off the rev limiter. FYI, the rev limiter on the series I is almost 1000 rpm lower then series II or this oem pcm wasnt calibrated properly for. Manual trans when Scott sent it in to 3800 performance to have it flashed.
So , last wheelie I tried to pull through a rock off the rear tire and took out the drivers side mirror :D
(https://i.postimg.cc/gX5w7Mp7/20230330-181649.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gX5w7Mp7)
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Also installed a larger dia steering wheel thinking it would help better control the little bit of bump the front end has......... sure feels like more feedback. I have simply gotten used to eps and am spoiled for sure.
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Also installed a larger dia steering wheel thinking it would help better control the little bit of bump the front end has......... sure feels like more feedback. I have simply gotten used to eps and am spoiled for sure.
Ummmm,yup. I'd never go back to manual labor steering. :m
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Also installed a larger dia steering wheel thinking it would help better control the little bit of bump the front end has......... sure feels like more feedback. I have simply gotten used to eps and am spoiled for sure.
Ummmm,y
up. I'd never go back to manual labor steering. :m
Hopefully I only have to endure it 1 trip maybe 2 ;D
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I changed the oil again last night for the 3rd time since I fired it off. Pulled the dipstick sun and noticed that the oil was on inch above the full hot mark on the dipstick. Worried that I was making oil as in fuel or coolant some how, I dropped it to look, smell and make sure. 5 qts came out and 5 qts went back in. Book says 4.9 with filter so scott must have grabbed a dipstick from one of the other motors and used that. Thats the only thing I can come up with.
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Gotta have wtf moments .
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Going to be an interesting trip for sure. Sooooooo many unknowns with this rail, even after putting a wrench on every nut and bolt and rebuilding rear and front. Been bouncing off the rev limiter and not clutch pushes with 12" tall lift offs just to check the cv bolts, clutch and trans. That only goes so far compared to the abuse of the dunes trying to keep up with everyone.
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You'll be just fine.
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You'll be just fine.
i'd like to think so and ill be even happier once mine is back up and running.
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Got the base and tie downs welded and painted for the red rail. No pics of them done yet. Waiting on some fittings from earls that speedway doesn't stock. Bought a 10 an bulk head fitting for the tank vent.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BX8qvKKn/20230501-212611.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BX8qvKKn)
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I like it!
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Much better! I feel safer just looking at the picture. Good on Speedway to acknowledge there is a defect on those tanks, but Speedway should send out something like a voluntary refund/replace to anyone that has purchased these tanks.. Fireball waiting to happen, not cool.
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Much better! I feel safer just looking at the picture. Good on Speedway to acknowledge there is a defect on those tanks, but Speedway should send out something like a voluntary refund/replace to anyone that has purchased these tanks.. Fireball waiting to happen, not cool.
They don't really give a damn.
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It would appear their business moto is ......send it out and let's see what comes back.
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There has been far too many burned using those type of "fuel cells". They are not safe and should be removed from the market.
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There has been far too many burned using those type of "fuel cells". They are not safe and should be removed from the market.
I can see why. They should not be labeled offroad in any shape form or fashion. I don't feel they are safe for any application having seen them split down the center of the weld
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Off road is code for not safe where people are present.
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Getting ready to add fuel and fire it off. I had 10 an feed and return at the tank on the bad one. 8 an feed and return on this 1 with 10 an vent. Same routing , to the top, down to the frame, across the frame past the tank then down below the tank.
(https://i.postimg.cc/JHr8wjwf/20230506-143403.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JHr8wjwf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/67CxyMBs/20230506-143331.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/67CxyMBs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yg7tWBf9/20230506-143320.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yg7tWBf9)
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+1 on the vent routing.
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Just need to wire in the eps controller on Scott's rail and pain the areas I tabbed for the eps and its ready to go.
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cool. Counting the days now.
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Didn't want to work on Scott's anymore but, since I'll be running the red rail for this next trip, it needs a bit more work. First on the list is re seal the left trans cv cup. It was leaking gear lube into the cv on the last trip. Brakes, they kept fading on the last trip and the rears suck by design. Thought I had a bad master cyl on The front but after some checking, it looks like the front wheel bearings are too loose. I repacked the old bearings and thought I had them re assembled correctly. I was rocking the wheel and there is more move.ent then should be. I will have to shim if I cannot move one cotter pin hole.
Rear end, ordered new springs as it is bad. Many saw how bad it pogo sticker on the dunes. It was set up for a lot more weight then I'm putting to it so thats one factor. Comp rate is 60 and rebound is 90. Going to slow rebound to 2-1 , if I have the shims and I ordered 225/325lbs springs. It is coil assist air shock so I would rather go light and add psi. It currently has 325/400 lb springs. Setting ride height with only .5" of pre load now. I know I can go as much as 2" of pre load. The cross over collar is set just about as high as it can go to avoid coil bind now. That is a massive drop in spring rate and coils aren't cheap. Ill bring the old 325 upper with me and if nessacary ill swap the 225 out. Don't have room or time to calculate it out the right way at this time. The pogo sticking is dangerous imo as it makes it very un predictable.
Would also like to install the other seats but thats low on the do to list.
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I hope I got the cv flanges sealed. The gear lube washed 90% of the grease out of that cv. New springs should be here today. Made mounts for the used seats i got from brian n. Children wanted seat sliders so they bought one. I don't like sliders but on them. Will probably be fine
(https://i.postimg.cc/R3LhpNYk/20240421-172158.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R3LhpNYk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/w3vMFxQr/20240421-172203.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w3vMFxQr)