DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => "AP" Member Project Logs => Topic started by: SPEC on December 17, 2009, 04:34:07 PM
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I've been dinking around for the last year trying to gey my gimp ass back into something I can drive...
Gotta have power steering/powerbrakes/reverse/long travel/and prolly a heater too....Meds make me get sick easy...
Here's the dilemma so many of us have....NO MONEY
BUT I GOT STUFF TO PIRATE OFF OF
Lockedup got me started a year ago...DS race refired me up...not too long ago....and Fabr well Fabr's been bugging me to get this done before the picnic table
So here's the deal
The no money build will be powered by a small block chevy, trans will prolly be turbo 350, it will be 2 wheel drive...Hopefully paddles for LS...depending if I can trade for them or not
Jeep rear end...air bagged with an adaption of atv shocks (I got tons of em') The seats I already got
I don't/won't have any cash to put into this rig so ABSOLUTELY NO BLING RIG
Hell be lucky if it even gets painted
So here's the stating point...
Motor choices...
63 Vette 327...High winding fair torque motor...Rated at 325 HP...(getting rare..worth $$$$)
305 smogger rated at 225 hp out of a truck...Dime a dozen
350 out of a truck 4 bolt main rated around 275 horse...Good torque for the hauler
These are the motor choices
Tranny
I got
Th 350
th 400
Fooken hunk O' shit 700r4
Rear ends
S-10 unknown gears...
Jeep cherokee Dana 30 unknown gears.....
old 3/4 ton chev...to lazy to crawl under the truck and check
I have a few rads to choose from...
CUZ DON'T FORGET...I HAVE THE SKIDDER FOR A PARTS DONOR
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Spec, if I were you, I would sell the 327 for working capital. Talk to circle track guys for used cams and carbs for the 350. If you use the Jeep rearend, don't use paddles that will hook up to good. You will have a truggy that won't break you. Tim
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I would also say sell the vette motor. That would give you some money for the project. For the motor i would say go with the 350, Its the same weight as the 305 and more power and you can find all the parts you want for it almost anywhere, and they cheap to work on. For the tranny eithier the TH350 or the 400 would be great options, the TH350 would probably be easier because its most likely cable kick down rather than vaccum, and the jeep rear end is most likely a dana 35 and i wouldnt put paddles on that because they have a hard time holding up to 35's with the factory inline 6. So i would go with S-10 rear end. I also might have some extras i could through your way to ;D
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;D
Kinda what I was thinking...
But nothing like puttin your foot in an LS-7 or that old 327...just a different power delivery
Both make your eyeballs kinda flat just at different wavelengths ::) ;D
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Both make your eyeballs kinda flat just at different wavelengths ::) ;D
I LOVE that ! TOOOO funny!
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Spec, if you can sell the 327, I am sure you could find an LS1 engine to use, WAAY lighter, and WAYY more power, I have seen them with a few miles on them for under $1000 and you just swap on a carb intake and use the MSD Ignition box and you have over 400HP!! This is the ONLY engine in my opinion to use if you are going V8 dollar per HP its by far the cheapest! You can even find a decent used cam for it and with NO other mods it will do over 500HP!!! Trust me I have done it and dyno'd it!
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Also, if you don't mind the extra weight, the truck 6.0 engine is exactly the same, only diffrence is the intake mani.....
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Money got alot tighter over the last week with the minni taking the big shit and having to buy a new tractor...
I was considering your input Whip...But with The Boss signing the papers on the new Kubota... I'm stuck with what I got
I was out in the shop this morning Kicking around some idea's about the suspension...Any body got some good pix of an unlimited 2 wheel drive trophy trucks?
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Too Bad, you can always do it later, they bolt right up to the older tranny's...The Trophy truck Idea is cool, just keep the chassis as light as possible and use the 327, scounge around for some parts and you can get that baby up to 450+ easy! When you are ready to get a cam for it, let me know and I will find a good one for you, cams and heads were my specialty when I was doing engines, you wouldn't believe the stuff they put in the world of outlaws and NASCAR stuff, even a flat tappet cam can make power, you just gotta spin em up a bit..
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Also see if you can scrounge up a victor Jr manifold or maybe even an older tunnel ram, (longer runners is better for low end) but make sure you don't get one of those big runner style and you just need some 400's or 600's carbs, no bigger than that... If you have the ability, get a set of the fel pro gaskets that fit the heads well (they can be a bit bigger than the heads but not smaller) and set the gasket on the head and scribe the port opening onto the head then port it to match and blend it nice and smooth, then do the same thing on the mani. If you want to try to port the heads, use a ball or oval shaped carbide cutter for your die grinder and pull the heads down and open up the bowl area just under the valve, just do your best to smooth everything out and if you put your finger in the port, with the head sitting like it does on the engine, feel the bottom of the floor of the runner, that "hump" is really where the power is, just lay it back into a more gradual curve, but be careful the castings are not that thick there, no more than 30-40 thousandths removed ok? If you do these things nicely and smoothly transitioning, I can guarantee you will FEEL the difference, and likely have to re jet the carbs! When done right a good bowl blend on the old heads can yield an EASY 50 HP! So give it a go, then clean em up REAL good, cuz there will be filings all over the place! Another trick you can do to the oldies, is run the piston to TDC then measure the deck height of the piston, if its in the hole more than .060" then you can run the thinnest gasket for that engine, the steel shim type, they are about .018" thick and this will tighten up the quench height or piston to head distance, this increases the burn rate and compression giving a good bit more power, just make sure you measure the piston in the hole correctly, if you decide to do this, let me know and I will go into it in detail, its VERY worth while! These things plus a decent cam could get you over 450 and possibly 500 depending on what exact 327 it is, and what heads it has...
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;D Whip,
I know what your saying...Roundy roundin for almost 30 years...Hanging out in Dick Trickles pit as a 6 year old...
My 327 will be running A 2 barrel, It's already got a race prepped cast iron intake on it...1997 second in season overall points.. set up...On a 305 cranked 350 ;D
I have access to a flow bench ;D At Superior head service :P
I know there is alot of power to be had...And it's cheap for me to do the machine work...Since I have to drive to visit Fabr anyway...Juice delivery
I'm not too worried about more power eyes ??? eyes
You forget I'm a gimp I don't need to get my eyeballs flattened, or the g-force on my body,
This is more of a no dollar build...
But really I'm just looking to building a totally NO BUDGET Buggy...Because so many people have no money but want to play...
You are really putting out good feedback,
I'll worry about swiping Fabr's drag motor after I get the travel numbers and get enough seat time in it to see If it's even feasible to have the damn thing
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Those Skidder donnor parts are gonna be be HEAVY. ;D ;D ;D
Those Trophy trucks are good inspiration for ideas. I don't have any links but google will find em! How about that V-8 monster from the Sand Sports Super Show that we were kicking ideas around about. We had a thread where we discussed that and the SandRocket V-8 buggies. SandRocket page has lots for inspiration!
http://www.sandrocket.com/ (http://www.sandrocket.com/)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sandrocket.com%2Fimg%2Fpix_main%2FrevOct08%2Fmp01-2-full.jpg&hash=d70389afa3771397f900b780f931771e32ec864d)
Kinda like this only in Flat Black......
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I couldn't remember sand rocket :-[
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EVERYONE seems to think that rear or mid engine is the only way to go on a car and I see the advantages and disadvantages of both. At least with front engine you can have a killer duty trans and rear diff/spool/whatever in the rear for a small fraction of the cost of a mendi or fortin or albins. Keeps cost WAYYYY down.
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That's my point ;D
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There was a NICE SandRocket at Silver Lake this year near the end of the summer and the thing would turn and steer awesome. It also jumped quite well. The idea that a a vehicle HAS to be rear engine to jump well is a myth and I have seen more rear engines kick the back end UP if it was a kicker jump. With a smooth jump it seems to make little to no differance!
Plus the guy was dragging all the "California" cars with rear engines and kicking their asses at dragging. Most of the rear engines with enough power to run with him could not keep the front end down and would drag the rear while he walked away across the sand from them.
Wheelies are kinda cool but I would prefer to win the race myself.
Hell I think even a mini rail with a bike motor sideways and a dwarf car adaptor feeding a tiny car IRS would be a great way to go. An Inline reverser is the only real $$$ part. An electric starter reverse near the motor could be added cheap enough. Just my .00002 sense...
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Take a torque monster shaft drive MC like ,for example, a Honda Goldwing or something similar. Front engine it .
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Take a torque monster shaft drive MC like ,for example, a Honda Goldwing or something similar. Front engine it .
Good idea! If you score a Honda goldwing with reverse it takes care of that issue too!
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My point exactly.
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The only drawback I see on the SandRocket is the IRS rear. I think they have the motor mounted pretty far back for balance. It probably makes the driveshaft very short, which would make much travel difficult with a live rear. Of course with the IRS each side has an axle no more than 24" long, so I don't see how the tranny to rear driveshaft could be much shorter.
Here is the picture I was thinking of:
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi277.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fkk74%2Fantiblinghenri%2Ffunny%2Ffunnyrail.jpg&hash=6b82fb14dce1ce16e141cf9f74d67f42e8ec5b5e)
Oops.... Try this one instead:
(https://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=619.0;attach=5111;image)
Here is the thread with more pictures.
http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=619.30 (http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=619.30)
It would probably be light enough that you could use the Shocks that Hemi43 did and leverage them up for more travel. Or double them up, cause you can't beat the price.
http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=2203.60 (http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=2203.60)
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I LOVE the steering on that top one! LOL!
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I myself do not see a drawback to the IRS rear in the sand rockets really.
Even if you use a Jaugier Diff like they often do its not much wider than a Mendeola so travel can be similair. Since the motors weight is being carried a bit more by the front the rear should have no trouble dealing with odd terrain with as much or nearly as much travel. Just my thoughts on it.
Same for the Ford diffs and any others you might run acorss.
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FOr drag racing the independent is a poor choice is what I THINK engineer was meaning but maybe not.
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I think you guys are missing the point here
I'm so not interested in building a MC powered unit...If I wanted to stay with a mini mc or sled powered unit...I'D KEEP MY 750... or stuff the cbr 1000 in it
I don't .... So why would I fook around with a goldwing motor?
When I got 3X the power and torque, reverse, powersteering and did I say reliable reverse in a simple, durable, and lowbuck package?
The only problem I see with an IRS rear end is this...I don't want one.......How many seasons are guys getting out of cv"s or UJ Indy rears?
I'm thinking straight axle for the sheer reliability of it and total lack of maintenance...Plus I have 3 on hand
If I wanted IRS I'd have kept the subi ,Jag, and Datsun units I had in stock...
The point of this build is to spend almost no money with the kind of stuff most rednecks like me have laying around...
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Ok yah we got a lil off the topic... :-[
I can see what you wish to do. Seen it done and they are a lot of fun and work great on the budget and low main.
I guess the real question is how much travel? With a solid axlerear -v-8 front travel is determined by length of driveshaft. To short you limit travel. To long traction becomes an issue if only 2wd.
As for the IRS jag rear ends I have found them for $150.00 at junkyards before so its not that much IF you got a good repoor with them unless there is a kilelr demand for siad item.
The amount of travel of course decides the CV's life. I know you need AMAP.
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I think you guys are missing the point. You don't have to have long travel to have fun in the sand. I believe Spec has mentioned his back cannot take hitting the whoops at speed. We all get caught up in the latest trend[long travel everything]. It cost a lot less to do 10 to 12" of travel. I'm with you Spec, I don't need long to have fun. Tim
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Yeah,I don't need long....... shit!Off topic again...................................
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I agree you don't need long travel but Specs mentioned before the softer the ride the better and the longer it is (relatively speaking) the softer it could be made to be easier on him.
Even an IRS rear end can be made to go more than 10-12 pretty easy. Specs got most of the rest it sounds like.
The straight axle's only down fall is it will torque the chassis some. IRS may ride a tad better BUT dollar for dollar I can see why he might want the straight axle.
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Ya,spec, I know what you're trying to do and feel it can be done. Keep your eye on the objective. Don't let us deter you! LOL!!!Solid rear with good articulation can go a lot of places especially if it has a locker or spool in it. As said , you limit travel with the angle the driveshaft can live at..
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I was doing some math and geometry Points stuff this morning
With a 48" drive shaft I can get almost 24" of travel with out over angling th UJ's on the drive shaft
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You should be able to get more than that. I was getting 20" out of a stock length Bronco drive shaft and their short!
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I myself do not see a drawback to the IRS rear in the sand rockets really.
Even if you use a Jaugier Diff like they often do its not much wider than a Mendeola so travel can be similair. Since the motors weight is being carried a bit more by the front the rear should have no trouble dealing with odd terrain with as much or nearly as much travel. Just my thoughts on it.
Same for the Ford diffs and any others you might run acorss.
The only Issue that I have with the Jag is it's a Jag and I don't have any idea how available it would be or if the yoke would adapt easily etc. A 9 inch or chevy 10 bolt truck is already gonna have a common U-joint, and a wheel pattern that will be easy to find wheels to bolt right on. The trophy trucks all use live rears so I know it will work well. I just think the live rear will work better within the budget, and really have no drawbacks.
On a side note, I don't think a Mendi and Jag would be comparable on travel because the Jag center seems quite a bit wider to me. It also uses U-joint axles and uses the drive shaft as a stressed member like a Vette. So its gonna be expensive to modify in any way, and if it breaks a U-joint, you cant even tow it. :P I see Sand Rocket is converting them to CV's and trailing arms but once again. $$
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Can the Jag for IRS. An 8.8 out of a newer Mustang is light and easy to come by. Not to mention the amount of aftermarket parts.......
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The Jag rear end is tough and I forget right now but its a common rear end from Dana I think. Plus its got inboard brakes fro mthe factory.
The v-12's all had Posi's while the straight 6's had open diffs. In case a person wanted cutting brakes.
But yah the IRS out of the Fords is really taking off in the Sandrockets.
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The Jag rear end uses a Dana 44 ring and pinion. It can supposrt a gearset ratio from 2.72 to 4.54.
Anyone got any dirt on the newer CV setups in the T-birds?
Is the new Mustang an IRS?
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;D Whip,
I know what your saying...Roundy roundin for almost 30 years...Hanging out in Dick Trickles pit as a 6 year old...
My 327 will be running A 2 barrel, It's already got a race prepped cast iron intake on it...1997 second in season overall points.. set up...On a 305 cranked 350 ;D
I have access to a flow bench ;D At Superior head service :P
I know there is alot of power to be had...And it's cheap for me to do the machine work...Since I have to drive to visit Fabr anyway...Juice delivery
I'm not too worried about more power eyes ??? eyes
You forget I'm a gimp I don't need to get my eyeballs flattened, or the g-force on my body,
This is more of a no dollar build...
But really I'm just looking to building a totally NO BUDGET Buggy...Because so many people have no money but want to play...
You are really putting out good feedback,
I'll worry about swiping Fabr's drag motor after I get the travel numbers and get enough seat time in it to see If it's even feasible to have the damn thing
AH, I did not know you were in the BIZ... Cool, I used to compete with superior in the LS1 market if its the same one! Cool to hear! I can't wait to see some metal sticking together! Lets see some of the ideas! I always thought a 4WD silverado 4 linked front and rear on coil overs would be killer in the dunes with a SHAG NASTY lil small block!
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I always got a kick out of how everyone seems to get all worked up when you say anything about a straight axle, no budget build!! Everyone says just sell something and then you can drop a grand into blah blah blah. For some of us its not that easy. I love the idea of this build. Instead of spending this thread talking about the merits of independent rears and bike motors, lets talk about what SPEC is building. There are some of us who are in this exact same boat, and would like to see this happen EXACTLY how he's planning it. The drive train layout and components are picked. Lets see some help with how to make them work.
Sorry if that came out like a rant, but to see 3 pages on a topic I'm excited to see happen go on about everything this build is not about is kinda irritating.
As for the build, I would go with the Jeep rear, TH350 trans for the better ratio's and light weight, and the 350 for the better low end torque, as more time will be spent cruising along.
I'd love to see a double triangulated 4 link rear built, they have excellent travel with no binding when set up properly. Plus, if you do it I can see it built!! I don't know how to build one personally (proper angles and such) and would love to see it done. For the driveshaft, to keep it EXTREMELY low buck, I've seen square driveshafts work, and they have the ability to extend to almost double their length. If driveshaft speed is kept relatively low, vibration should be kept at a minimum. If nothing else it'll get it moving until a proper driveshaft can be afforded!!
Have you figured your steering? I would likely use the S10 steering box (I seen the S10 rear end suggestion, so I'm assuming you have the truck!) The reason behind that is that you can use the power steering pump and everything will hook up to the 350. Use a modified Pitman arm with 2 tie-rod holes and extenders to get the proper steering geometry.
Wow, first post in a while! Guess I made up for missed time, lol
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You guys all have good points ;D
Islander summed it up...No money and all Junk yard parts ;D
I was going to rob the Jeep box and Do as Islander said...I was contimplating the sq. drive shaft...Only one problem...I tossed them all In the last load of srap...SILLY FOOKING ME But I do have a couple of slip yolks off of long box pick ups ;D and off the jeep drive train
I do have some monsterous uni-balls for the front as well...
I should just post up pix here of the donor parts :P
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The bottom picture is just of a BIG ICKY SPIDER...
The skidder has a couple of Hi angle UJ's on it Now that there is snow on the ground and the BIG ICKY SPIDER is elsewhere I'll crawl under it and rob them off of it...I didn't want to run into the rest of that fookers family
Even tho I spent a few hours at LS poking all the holes in giant Taranchula mounds
Anyways
With the latest changes around here another truck to replace the S-10 isn't going to happen...So I have to learn to live with that gutless hunk O' poo...New tractor...or new truck... :P
I have heard the weak jeep rear end...Now is there a no dollar fix for that? Beefing up the case for less flex?
Or are they just all around weak in the center section?
I know we quit blowing up the metrics in the roundy's when I welded up a top and bottom truss to prevent torsional flex...I went from 2 rears per season to I ran the last one till I sold the car and retired from asphault
Engineer,
I googled the shit out of trophy trucks ;D
Looked and read till my eyes were bleeding :-[
Here's what I'm kinda leaning towards...Really wide control arms...Enough room to accomodate at least a bank of 3 shocks maybe 4
With several mounting points so I can play with the rake/camber/castor
I feel...well ...er sorta...semi confident I can get cheapo atv shocks to work pretty well and support the rig :o
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What about trying the coils from the Jeep? Or using the shocks with over-load springs? I have a set here that I got for 35 bucks a Princess Auto that are rated for 1000lbs each that I was going to use on another project way back when. I know that they are no air shock, but they may work better that multiple atv shocks and not cost much more than 50 bucks!! Could run them on the front and use the coils with the shocks mounted inside them with a cantilevered rear suspension with adjustable mounts....or am I getting way off base?
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Here's somrthing I've been kicking around in my head for awhile...but I haven't figured out how to get the articulation I need for the rear...This set up is on my 750
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I always got a kick out of how everyone seems to get all worked up when you say anything about a straight axle, no budget build!! Everyone says just sell something and then you can drop a grand into blah blah blah. For some of us its not that easy. I love the idea of this build. Instead of spending this thread talking about the merits of independent rears and bike motors, lets talk about what SPEC is building. There are some of us who are in this exact same boat, and would like to see this happen EXACTLY how he's planning it. The drive train layout and components are picked. Lets see some help with how to make them work.
Sorry if that came out like a rant, but to see 3 pages on a topic I'm excited to see happen go on about everything this build is not about is kinda irritating.
As for the build, I would go with the Jeep rear, TH350 trans for the better ratio's and light weight, and the 350 for the better low end torque, as more time will be spent cruising along.
I'd love to see a double triangulated 4 link rear built, they have excellent travel with no binding when set up properly. Plus, if you do it I can see it built!! I don't know how to build one personally (proper angles and such) and would love to see it done. For the driveshaft, to keep it EXTREMELY low buck, I've seen square driveshafts work, and they have the ability to extend to almost double their length. If driveshaft speed is kept relatively low, vibration should be kept at a minimum. If nothing else it'll get it moving until a proper driveshaft can be afforded!!
Have you figured your steering? I would likely use the S10 steering box (I seen the S10 rear end suggestion, so I'm assuming you have the truck!) The reason behind that is that you can use the power steering pump and everything will hook up to the 350. Use a modified Pitman arm with 2 tie-rod holes and extenders to get the proper steering geometry.
Wow, first post in a while! Guess I made up for missed time, lol
You're not on a rant Islander. 8) You are correct BUT we toss ideas around in all threads since that is how NEW ideas come about. There's plenty of room for thinking . We SHOULD stay on track and start new topics BUT it rarely happens. Hint,hint,hint. ;D
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Yup It's all good 8)
Here's why I'm kinda stuck on using the ATV shocks...This is just 1 drawer of them...I have another with works and sled Fox shox...Plus what's on my 750 :-\
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I was looking to maybe sell them all off on Fleapay...but with their new rating and charging fees they can kiss my sorry little gimpy ass... I thought about the bilstein coil overs...I can pick the 9" stroke ones with spring for 200 Bux a pair...But that's 800 plus of a less than 1000 dollar budget :'(
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I hear ya, a bargain may be a bargain, but if you only have so much....my S10 that I'm starting mine with only has $600 into it so far, and that includes buying BOTH trucks ;D
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So whataya thinking of for chassis??
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Check out this build i found on pirate4x4, It has an amazing cantilever suspension on it.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=804177 (http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=804177)
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WOW, what the hell keeps the axles from twisting up? I don't see any 4 link bars or anything? There is no way one ball joint can keep it all together, what am I missing? Unreal truck though!
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The Jag rear end uses a Dana 44 ring and pinion. It can supposrt a gearset ratio from 2.72 to 4.54.
D44 gear sets change at 4.10. Getting anything taller than 4.10 in a Jag diff requires a lot of work. 8.8's are stronger and have way more parts availability.
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Look on page six. The front u-joint looks like the third mount point.
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I always got a kick out of how everyone seems to get all worked up when you say anything about a straight axle, no budget build!! Everyone says just sell something and then you can drop a grand into blah blah blah. For some of us its not that easy. I love the idea of this build. Instead of spending this thread talking about the merits of independent rears and bike motors, lets talk about what SPEC is building. There are some of us who are in this exact same boat, and would like to see this happen EXACTLY how he's planning it. The drive train layout and components are picked. Lets see some help with how to make them work.
Sorry if that came out like a rant, but to see 3 pages on a topic I'm excited to see happen go on about everything this build is not about is kinda irritating.
As for the build, I would go with the Jeep rear, TH350 trans for the better ratio's and light weight, and the 350 for the better low end torque, as more time will be spent cruising along.
I'd love to see a double triangulated 4 link rear built, they have excellent travel with no binding when set up properly. Plus, if you do it I can see it built!! I don't know how to build one personally (proper angles and such) and would love to see it done. For the driveshaft, to keep it EXTREMELY low buck, I've seen square driveshafts work, and they have the ability to extend to almost double their length. If driveshaft speed is kept relatively low, vibration should be kept at a minimum. If nothing else it'll get it moving until a proper driveshaft can be afforded!!
Have you figured your steering? I would likely use the S10 steering box (I seen the S10 rear end suggestion, so I'm assuming you have the truck!) The reason behind that is that you can use the power steering pump and everything will hook up to the 350. Use a modified Pitman arm with 2 tie-rod holes and extenders to get the proper steering geometry.
Wow, first post in a while! Guess I made up for missed time, lol
Agreed its not really a rant so much but like Fabr siad this is how someone hits a far better idea on the head sometimes.
With todays world you can get a whole IRS rear for pretty cheap IF a person wnated to go that way and found a sutiable one.
If they wanted a straight axle like mentioned the jeep axles leave a lot to be desired and the only good thing about them is the bolt pattern IF you had a set of the Ford/Dodge/Jeep rims with the tires already on them but the jeep axles are not know for durability. Just easy to toss and upgrade.
The S-10 axle will take a good bit more snot but a ford 9inch out of any old van or truck would be better yet (and CHEAP) if the extra width of it over the Jeep and s-10 axles was not a problem fitting it on a trailer etc. The width might be welcome in Specs case?
D44 gear sets change at 4.10. Getting anything taller than 4.10 in a Jag diff requires a lot of work. 8.8's are stronger and have way more parts availability.
The Jag rear ends will take the ratios I posted as bolt ins from what I have seen but the stock ratios is what most use and with a v-8 on tap and light weight it will be "close enough" for a budget build if that way was taken lol.
To be honest spec if that Blue Jeep s what you are looking at taking parts off I would sell it? Unless its got something wrong with it you cannot find one that looks anywhere near that nice around here (Michigan rust) for under 4000 (yah four grand) Unless the pics not showing rust?? It looks nice for just a daily driver.
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I don't have any experience with Jeep rear ends, but the 7.5 inch 10 bolt that comes in most S10's is very weak also. I good rear to look for if you want cheap strength is the Ford Exploder 8.8. It's similar in strength to the GM 12 bolt, and can be bought cheap, if you look, you can even get them with up to a 4.11 gear, factory limited slip and disk brakes. I paid 50 bucks for the one I have, but it's only drum brakes. It does have 3.73 gears and a limited slip though. The 9 inch would be nice, but they tend to go for a higher price.
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You know, I think I still have a 9" in my dad's yard...Want me to take a look? I think the center is there and all..
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Good points...
And I'm not bitchen that we're off topic some...I just have no use for rear indy
I can prolly find a Metric diff cheap enough But I'd like to stay fairly narrow
I think the last years of the metrics before they all went 4wd were about the same as the S-10...My problem.......Is around here DEMO DERBY IS KING.......Shit thats in the junk yard is junk or the derby heads have it...What about ford ranger diffs...I might have a swap for one of those
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Where you at whip?
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Cali....but maybe somebody is going to Glamis for new years, I could bring it with me? Or ship it truck freight, but it would be a hundred bucks or so to ship...
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DDDDDUUUUUUUHHHHHHH
I knew that eyes
:j
So you guys really hate the jeep diffs huh?
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Spec have you looked at the axle in your jeep. It could possibly be a d44 or a chrysler 8.25 which are both fairly strong. I have a 92 xj with a welded 8.25 with 33 inch boggers and have never had a problem, but the 8.25 are c-clip which a lot of people avoid.
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tHE YEAR THAT IT IS IT COULD GO EITHER WAY effen caps loc
It's got that chrysler V-6 in it
I'll crawl under it and look
Oh yeah Nutz, the body is actually not too bad but the motor is stuck and no title...And 3 broken windows
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And 3 broken windows
Its gonna need good heat then................ rofl
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Whats wrong with the skidder? Looks like that could be put to use.
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Whats wrong with the skidder? Looks like that could be put to use.
Hey Dune ,
Good to hear from you...How you feeling?
The Skidder has over 35,000 hours on it...Motor is tired...Mice chewed up the wiring when I was trying to sell it ...I just loved driving that fooker...But I play hell trying to climb up in it...Now it's parts and iron...
The pix don't show it but that fooker is HUGE
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Cali....but maybe somebody is going to Glamis for new years, I could bring it with me? Or ship it truck freight, but it would be a hundred bucks or so to ship...
You MIGHT ask fast about that.That's get it 1/2 way there.
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A 9" is the cheapest best way to go. The problems with D44's and 8.8's and some of the Cheby housings is the pressed in axle tubes. The plug welds break and the start to sag when you beat on them. Also, anything with C-clip axles is a liability.
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Ditto-9" all the way.
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9" = easy as hell to beef/box the housing and add skid plates on the cheap.
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A 9" is the cheapest best way to go. The problems with D44's and 8.8's and some of the Cheby housings is the pressed in axle tubes. The plug welds break and the start to sag when you beat on them. Also, anything with C-clip axles is a liability.
Some one looking for a postal run from Glamis? I'm leaving Kansas 12/26 and returning 01/08. Will need tellie #'s and such.
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I will check it out tonight, hey Spec, how's 75 bucks sound since you have to figure out how to get it home? Assuming I still have it there...
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Hey fast, where are you camping? I am hoping to be somewhere off Gecko road, but it depends on how busy it is....If Spec Decides he wants it I will PM you ok? Otherwise I will just look out for you, and say hey, look for the green monster likely going slow till the last day! LOL! Just to make sure it makes it through! Lol..
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Hey Whip is the 9 inch just a regular axle?
I am just asking cause if its not something real unique its likey be less hassle to find one local out of any older full size Ford.
I know Spec said a lot of shit is taken by demo derby guys but still there is likey five rearends he could get out of vans or pickups within five miles for a song. I know I can score them around here all day long. Hell I just sent a van to the scrap yard with one
Don't get me wrong. The gesture was nice. But to haul it that far is its not a special unit just doesn't make sense to me.
EDIT I am not sure why that pic is there. It should not be. I posted it earlier in a different thread.
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Yeah I am sure its just a run of the mill 9er let me know spec I need to figure out how to get it packed up and cleaned a bit to go in the hauler!
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As far as the housing there are 2 varieties. Large and small bearing. The small came out of smaller cars. All pickups were large. One thing about a 9" is how easy it is to narrow and respling the axles is done at many places.
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Just how huge is it. Semi flat bed or 12k flat bed. Looks like that would be blast to play with.
Finally back home. Going back to work Jan 11 th. Got to place the disability insurane claims stuff. I feel pretty good. Got some good news this am my tumor has a chrom-a- zone deletion that makes it respond to treatment better. So bottom line is I am treatable not cureable. It will still progress but should be much less with the deletion and treatment. I will be around for a few more years. God only knows that answer for any of us anyhow.
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Well it beats the alternative at least. God to hear the "good" news but you're quite right. We all have only a microsecond to count on. We wish you all the best. Live long and prosper. WTF said that? LOL!!!!!!
Well I started to correct that to good but maybe it was just meant to be. ;) 8)
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NOt sure if you are talking to me but if you are the axle is just a regular truck axle I believe, not gigantic but big enough..
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That'd be the standard big bearing housing. The small bearing housings are kind of a rarety. Only reason I even know of them is that when i bought a bunch of stuff including a 9" narrowed ,with Mark Williams axles and spool with nodular iron case,to just what i needed for a song long ago. I never knew till I went to get new axles while narrowing it further a few years later and bought a set of Summers axles and they wouldn't fit. Not only smaller bearings but smaller diameter shafts too. Same R&P tho! Never broke it in over 15 years and ranging from 500 HP early to over 900 for the last 5. The 9" for it's size is a real bullet proof unit(when using a nodular case that is ).
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Did I mention ratios of 2ish to over 6.14:1?
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Oh yeah they are solid, especially the ones like in my 67' Camaro, Chromo fab 9 with ALL the goodies 35 spline axles Nodular center, Etc. That dam thing cost me a pretty penny! Never did finish the stinking car though! got it to a roller and then ran out of cash, once I got some more, I was into the dirt stuff and now it sits! LOL! Someday!
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Sounds like a future pre runner use. Not the car but the goodies like that rear end.
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LOL! Nah, it just needs a lil sheetmetal flooring and paint and then install the engine so, I have WAYY too much in that car, the best of the best, top gun 4 link, Koni double adjustable Coil overs, aerospace components disk brakes front and rear, full mild DOM cage bumper to bumper, should pass 7.50 specs, chute on the back, totally re welded front camaro clip, yada, yada, like 30 grand worth of crap! I'll probably just sell it, even though its the car I met my wife in!
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WOW YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN BUSY
Appreciate the offer Whip...I can prolly find one local IF I look
I know some derby heads :-\
Dune,
12 K flatbed might hold it...Tipped the scales at 12,500 pounds...but some parts have come off it since
Lemme let this all sink in...new tractor got here...with only 1/2 hour on the meter...It's shiney and has some BLING
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X-mas came and went :P
You guys hate the jeep diffs,
Unfortuneately Whith that Shiney new Boda came a payment book...Sorta looks like the 71 is going to have to get sold off to pay for a dumptruck :-[
and a couple of Boda payments...So the 327 will be leaving, in the truck
This leaves me with the 305...I know it's a sickly motor...But racing them in the stock,bomber and run what ya brung classes has taught me there is some power to be had reliably and on the cheap ;D
The 350 will stay in the dumptruck...305 in a 1 ton pulling the Boda..... rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
with that being said...
Now I wish I had some no torque converter power glides still laying around...
So as many NO BUDGET BUILDS.....THE COMPROMISES HAVE ALREADY STARTED
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Those old bad mouthed powerglides are one tough unit! To think a trans that was thought to be about as big a POS there was at the time they came out has now been for 20 years or so one of the most used and preferred trannies in drag racing is almost unbelievable. All they take is a good set of kevlar clutches and a kevlar band along with a good front pump and you almost have to run the things without fluid to hurt them.
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Oops ,forgot to mention replacing the stock cast iron clutch hub with a steel one. The only truly weak point in a glide was that clutch hub and shitty frictions.
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Yup
Direct drive with a "GO valve"
weighs half as much as a turbo 350...Just as durable if not more...Plus you get to rev the hell out of the engine in 1st and be doing 60 mph no problem ;D
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Only problem with a circleglide is that you lose the torque multiplication that the converter provides. Of course you get rid of the heat issue in return.
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Remember the old clutchflites?
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i got a nice set of rams horn exhaust manifolds that would go good on this build.... ;D
and boxes of exhaust clamps that could easily be parted with.
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;D
I'll have to go digging...Cuz the ones on the 327 will prolly go with the truck...What kinda trade you thinking Voods?
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i dont care.. whatever you wanna trade for them...
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Speaking of axles ;D
Another option is a toyota 8" you can find them for cheap and they are pretty dang strong. If i remember right i think most are 30 spline. You can truss and box them the same as a 9" also.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fim1.shutterfly.com%2Fmedia%2F47b9d806b3127ccec72292e7d91100000040O00QbtmLZm2csQe3nw8%2FcC%2Ff%253D0%2Fps%253D50%2Fr%253D0%2Frx%253D550%2Fry%253D400%2F&hash=5106fa1a8a0dfd0c38a4bdb774f9e807fe0aa275)
Also heres the reason im not a big fan of factory jeep axles ;D
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fim1.shutterfly.com%2Fmedia%2F47b8d928b3127ccec4c679b825b800000040O00QbtmLZm2csQe3nw8%2FcC%2Ff%253D0%2Fps%253D50%2Fr%253D0%2Frx%253D550%2Fry%253D400%2F&hash=452198083248add75fc48ef189029e6e7687827e)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fim1.shutterfly.com%2Fmedia%2F47b8d928b3127ccec4c701c805b800000040O00QbtmLZm2csQe3nw8%2FcC%2Ff%253D0%2Fps%253D50%2Fr%253D0%2Frx%253D550%2Fry%253D400%2F&hash=13d803613d63547dda2ed84f1fa163361e71bf97)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fim1.shutterfly.com%2Fmedia%2F47b8d928b3127ccec4c7dcac452a00000040O00QbtmLZm2csQe3nw8%2FcC%2Ff%253D0%2Fps%253D50%2Fr%253D0%2Frx%253D550%2Fry%253D400%2F&hash=d12fc75f1c6106058d41308654c631c5d87197a8)
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Speaking of axles ;D
Another option is a toyota 8" you can find them for cheap and they are pretty dang strong. If i remember right i think most are 30 spline. You can truss and box them the same as a 9" also.
Also heres the reason im not a big fan of factory jeep axles ;D
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fim1.shutterfly.com%2Fmedia%2F47b8d928b3127ccec4c7dcac452a00000040O00QbtmLZm2csQe3nw8%2FcC%2Ff%253D0%2Fps%253D50%2Fr%253D0%2Frx%253D550%2Fry%253D400%2F&hash=d12fc75f1c6106058d41308654c631c5d87197a8)
Ouch!! That sucks. And I'm sure you weren't mistreating it! ;D
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That kinda looks like it happened .5 of a second after your avatar pic was taken, lol
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LOL, my thoughts exactly! Bet that made a hell of a racket!
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Ouch that's gotta hurt!! :o
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ff:
Wow point taken
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That kinda looks like it happened .5 of a second after your avatar pic was taken, lol
Actually 10 Min. ;D It made a hell of a racket especially when the air bag went off :u luckely ( spelling ) it wasnt mine it was a friend of mine. I told him it wasnt a good idea ;D I felt really good when i told him " I told you so" haha
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Also this just shows what was mentioned earlier about some axle tubes being pressed in and plug welded. This was one of them. So be sure and weld the tube if thats the case.
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Actually 10 Min. ;D It made a hell of a racket especially when the air bag went off :u luckely ( spelling ) it wasnt mine it was a friend of mine. I told him it wasnt a good idea ;D I felt really good when i told him " I told you so" haha
don't you love that moment? lol
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As long as it's an "I told you so" with their own equipment!!
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Any news on where this project is headed Spec? Or are you in the same boat as me and went from one of the low dollar boys to one of the no dollar boys!?!?
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Any news on where this project is headed Spec? Or are you in the same boat as me and went from one of the low dollar boys to one of the no dollar boys!?!?
:'(
With THE GREAT PUNKIN payment...It's gone to a negative budget build
But hoping to get on it as soon as the woodgas gennie is up and running drowning kick Altho the reactor is still out in a snowbank nono
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spec just saw this thread! I don't know how I miss so many threads. those pics I posted a while back say it all down to the tractor exhaust caps. keep it cheap, functional, reliable as best as possible (or really light so us sand rail guy can pull you back ;) ;) ;) and UGLY! that way you'll feel good about personality dents ;) ;D. that is what I like most about those pics of that truggy, had a little style but simple through and through! just go with what you got in the yard bolt it together, build the frame and do you best to make the atv shocks work for now until you can afford air bags like we talked about. that truggy will be a blast no matter what! I was thinking about using the axle off the '85 southwind motorhome we have been parting out! it's a dully but what the hell! I would blend in real well at syrahole party's right LMAO rofl what is really sad is I gave away a 3/4 ton 87 chevy frame with both axles a little over a year ago because I didn't want to stack more crap out in my feild! wish I would've kept them now.
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ok spec! I know you like to open specs trading post from time to time and no I don't have any chickens or goats on the table ;D what I have is a set of air springs that I believe would do the trick more than enough! you have a motor we talked about in exchange! what do you think? I took pics of the part #'s so you can look them up and yes they are brand new never been bolted down! the big plates go with them. I believe these with your shocks should make for a smooth ride or at least as smooth as you back will let you get. ;) the little bags pn# is AS 4509
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Awwwww,heck spec,I think he likes you!
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I thought it was a fair offer? ;D
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I'm still kicking this thing around in my head...
Getting ready to move...
S-10 got blown up and scrapped :P
I'm trying to decide what parts to keep and haul or if I should just sell it all off here and buy stuff when I get to where I'm going...
I whacked up all the rear ends for scrap, except the s-10...that went under the splitter...
I stole all the brake stuff off the dana 60 when the brakes went on the 71...So I whacked that too :-[
The skidder has been 4 loads of Iron and 1 load to go 8)
I still got the 305 and the turbo 350...you think I should sell that off here or crate it up and drag it with me, the shocks don't take up much room so I'll prolly leave them in their drawers and bring them unless I get a bug up my ass and sell the welding table too...
Or you guys think I should just find a hunk O' crap down there?
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First thing is how big of tractor trailer you moving in, second how many trips you want to make? Moving sucks, but making extra trips to haul crap you should have sold is worse. Just get rid of the stuff in house and take the shop stuff. And for God's sake dont leave the stuff to make the goddies!
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Don't forget smog.
I am moving myself soon and trying to get things wrapped up here and am selling off all I do not think I wish to keep and my old POS AWD winterbeater minivan as even if it would make the trip I could only keep it for a bit till I had to replate the license plate with the new states plate it as it will NEVER clear smog laws anywhere else (Michigan has NO smog laws)
So those motors (305 and 350) might not be good for anything but off road toys if you gotta put them in a vehicle and take it in for smog.
Unless you get a 1969 or older car/truck to put them in!
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It'll be my 71 and trailer :-[
Multi trips are surely in order...
Been tossing around the idea of renting a U-haul truck and trailer...Beat the hell out of they're new stuff VS. beating the hell out of my antique...
Depending on the happenings in the next week Might be hauling a load of shop stuff down 1st ;D
Fabr will have a new roll to play with rofl
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I thought smog was 76 and older exempt? I don't know for sure at all, as we have no smog laws up here.