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Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => Chassis and Suspension => Topic started by: dre on April 08, 2009, 07:34:05 AM
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I have been looking around at part suppliers and see most hubs are aluminium. Is there any issue with thermal expansion and bearing preload using an aluminium hub with a steel (4140?) stub axle.
Also I have seen aluminium uprights around, how are the steel stub axles located/bonded to these generally?
Cheers
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I have been looking around at part suppliers and see most hubs are aluminium. Is there any issue with thermal expansion and bearing preload using an aluminium hub with a steel (4140?) stub axle.
Also I have seen aluminium uprights around, how are the steel stub axles located/bonded to these generally?
Cheers
Pressed and secured with a bolt via the backside...
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Yup,
and no there isn't any probls with steel snoutrs and Alum hubs...I dinked around with a rebuildable snout/spindle...Aluminum didn't fair well as a snout
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Many are just shrink fitted.Heat the aluminum to 400*. Chill the steel with dry ice for 10 minutes or so. slip the parts together and you have a fit that is too tight to loosen or move.You have to precision fit the parts for a shrink fit very accurately.It will be closer tolerance than a press fit.
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The old hot and cold trick is amazing. I relined a cast alum brake drum once using that method. Made a steel ring that was like .015" oversized. Threw the drum in the oven (yes the one in the kitchen, I live alone) and the ring in the freezer. Half an hour later the ring dropped in and rattled around and poof it was stuck. I also secured it with bolts and turned it true. I swear there had to be a 1/16" gap when I dropped it in. Anyways, saved me a small fortune on an old atv.
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Easiest and only method in the world for replacing the starter gear on a flywheel also.