DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => "AP" General Discusion => Topic started by: SPEC on October 16, 2009, 02:43:22 PM
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I'm officially hanging up my Micro builders cap...
I got to have reverse and power steering...sux to get old...
So here's the deal I got a few SBC's laying around, some auto trannies...a jeep, and a 3/4 ford 4x4...
I need to build for next to nothing a woods hauler that I can get in and out of Haul ass and back up If I need to...and steer around obsticals ;D
Plus it has to have a really soft ride...so a lifted truck isn't gonna cut it
So what do you guys think I should build a 2 wheel drive truggy or a 4 wheel drive?...
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If it were me I would look at the 4 by since you have the 3/4 ton system there. Good chance you all ready have some good gear ratios. Make your big investment in the shocks I would think fox 2.5 and a light chassis and 4 link on front and rear. Could get good travel thus better ride. I picked the 3/4 ton stuff cause I have broke the crap out of 1/2 stuff and my 3/4 just keeps taking it. My 2 cents
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I say follow the KISS rule...Keep It Simple, Stupid. I think for something small, I would go with the Jeep stuff (unless you have an easy way to mate the SBC and the Ford (?) 3/4t axles) get yourself a set of Jeep YJ springs (nice and soft and super flexy) tube it up, and go wheelin!
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an easy way to mate the SBC and the Ford (?) 3/4t axles
Just use Chevy gearbox and transfer case, and make up tailshafts with one end Chevy and one end Ford?
And get yourself a nice set of parabolic springs to help soak up the ruts and bumps - http://www.westraliasprings.com.au/category/4wd_parabolic_suspension/23
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Chevy tcase is passenger drop...ford is driver drop. No easy way to mate the 2 unless you buy an expensive adaptor or build a 'doubler'.
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Chevy tcase is passenger drop...ford is driver drop. No easy way to mate the 2 unless you buy an expensive adaptor or build a 'doubler'.
Whassat mean? One comes off one side of the back of the gearbox, and the other one comes off the other side? So the tailshafts would just need an extra uni or two in them to let them flex more? Or is it worse than that?
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:r :l :)
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The output for the rear is in the same place unless you get an old tcase...always centered. The front output is on one side or the other. Chevy is always passenger and Ford is always driver. Late model Jeep is driver and older Jeep (up to late 80s, I think) is passenger. I know the adaptors are out there, they are pricey...unless, of course you could find what you need on the black market (craigslist or ???).
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Not all Chevy is pass. side drop. All S trucks are drivers side.
As for the question, I would definitely go 4WD. To completely avoid the transfer case, if you want to, you could just build a direct full time set-up using a transfer case chain. The best example I can think of using that is the episode of Monster Garage where they build the stingray Corvette mudder.
Out of all your options listed, I'd go with a Jeep based buggy. Parts are available to do anything you want, and it's nice sometimes to be able to just run down to the parts store and pick up what you need, instead of having to make it every time you break it. What to run for axles is more of a choice made from how tight your trails are, how much tire, weight and how much power. A light, tube frame Jeep buggy running up to 35's will be fine on stock axles. My Uncle's 83 CJ7 is running a 350 Chevy, TH350 trans, NP203/205 doubler T-case, and 35" BF Mud Terrains, and the stock axles are still holding strong. That being said, he is still getting me to swap in a built 9" Ford and Dana 44 front from a 79 Bronco, which are a major upgrade from what he is running.
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Agreed on the S truck stuff but I think Spec is looking to use what he has...Spec, what exactly do you have for choices? I also agree the Jeep set up would be best for the tight trails, I ran my TJ with a 44 in the rear (spooled) and the 30 in the front with a lunchbox locker and never broke a thing...we do have some rough assed trails around here! I was amazed at what it would do.
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RC is 100% on the money...
I have to use what I got or can trade the micro parts for...
The jeep is a late 80's wagoneer with a stuck motor...
the ford is a late early 90's F-250 with a junk 302
I've got turbo 400 and 350 trannies
305,327, and a vortec 350 for engines
I don't want a lifted truck...I need to be able to get in and out of it by myself...and It has to have a smooth ride so long travel is in order...
I need to stay narrow Cuz I like the tight trails
so I'm leaning towards the jeep diff(s)
To keep the wight down I was also kinda leaning towards 2wd but you guys are right 4 would be nice if I got in trouble I'm not into mudding that was long ago ;D
I really like lock'dups build and Baloo has inspired me too I'M KINDA THINKING SORTA TROPHY TRUCK-ISH effen caps lock
only with a more gimp freindly means to get in and out on the drivers side...A buddy took me for a spin in his rhino a couple of weeks ago...that's why I decided to go with a longer wheel base we went a bout 1/4 mile at 15 to 20 mph where I ride at 60 with the buggy and we had to turn around too much porporsing I saw some front engined rails a while back and the poor reveiws they got But it did spark my interest ;D
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Spec, I have been taking the kids out in an old S10 blazer. It is nice to have a heater this time of year. How about taking the jeep and putting one of your motors in it. You could work out an airbag suspension so you could have it low to get in and air it up for clearance. Put a cage in for safety and cut both ends back for aproach angle. Or trade for an Olds Toronado trans, install it backwards like trophy truck to run a driveshaft back to a long travel rearend. You could use the Ford truck for axle and a arm design,etc. Tim
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Spec the only problem I see is the Jeep axles are ALMOST full width. Maybe 4 inches difference between the 2.
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The Wagoneer axles are not as wide as you would think. They are only a few inches wider then Toy axles.
If you wanted to run 2WD, you could run any of the rear axles you have with the best running engine/trans combo. (I'd go with the 327 and a TH350 myself, I love the 327, sweet little screamers!) The reason for the Th350 is I like the ratio's better and it's much lighter. Either weld the rear if you don't have a limited slip or locker, or run turning brakes and an open diff. I know I got questioned on that one when I mentioned it earlier, but as anyone that has run a tractor, it pretty impressive what you can go through just by applying the brakes to the spinning wheel, and doughnuts are fun as hell too ;D
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Waggy axles measure out to 60.5 inches...maybe you are thinking Cherokee? Most of the Toy axles are in the 55 inch range. Still not a lot of difference just depends on what is laying around.
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It's a compact one ;D
I think I'll go with the 4 wheel drive using the jeep stuff
I looked over alot of Sammies, but the wheelbase is just too short...I already knew this since I have a geo tracker as a daily driver that hurts my back on rouph roads
So I'm thinking of a vortec 350, carbed
Cuz I don't have the harness for it...
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Spec, Good choice on the jeep, there are tons of parts to use for them. You should be able to find anything you need used. I found the picture of the poorman's trophy truck rear drive system I described. It may be of interest to someone. It is a 425[toronado] transmission with driveshaft back to dana 44 pozi. It has 18" of rear travel. Front end is mm. Tim
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Cool thing about the Cherokee front is that it's all ready 4 linked. The reat is leaf sprung but that is easily remedied. I would look for a front wheel drive engine and auto trans (picking up mine for my next project) and sell/trade some of your other stuff for it. Weld up the dif in the trans and put a disco on the input of the Dana 30 so you can have 2 wheel when you want it. They make a disco for the sammy...might work on the 30? There isn't any other way to disconnect the front end except a tcase.
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Thanks doc, RC
I do have 1 more "donor" I forgot to mention...
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:o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
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If you can make a long travel suspension on that rig, you'll be my hero ;D
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This would be cool as hell.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRPHT9wm5cI&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRPHT9wm5cI&feature=related)
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hellyeah!!
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Heck useing and old zero turn mower and you build one of these things in a weekend.
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Needs about 500 HP tho!
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This been around a while, but I still drool........
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUWf0XFqsiE&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUWf0XFqsiE&feature=related)
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That 1st tracked unit my my spine shrivel just watching it...That rip saw.....
Now if I had a million bux.....
But ya I keep looking at my old skidder...thats all hydrostatic ;D
plus 2 hard trannies and a killer transfer case ;D
and the 5 foot tall tires.....
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But IF it ever gets stuck youll just have to leave it.
Notice the big if.
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There was a D8 Cat bulldozer stuck on the last jobsite I was on. Lesson learned? Always send in you 2ND biggest rig into the mudhole ;D
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;D
Honestly...
I've never had it stuck where I couldn't winch it out or use the bucket to lever me out 8)
altho I have had to ruin some saw chains cutting up my load so I could winch my dumb ass back out of where I was ::)
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if you've never been stuck, you've never really been offroad!
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;D
When I was young we had a Timberjack...I had that buried all the time :( when I got older I worked smarter not harder...When you own the equipment and pay for repairs...The whole attitude for heading across that swamp for a few trees changes, they'll be there in January when the swamp is 1 big frozen hi-way....Now I did accidentally drive my tracker into a rut from the skidder...that poor little fooker sat with all 4 off the ground :P
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if you've never been stuck, you've never really been offroad!
I guesss I've been off road quite a bit then.