Panel shaping newbie question

[sandycrack]

OK started work on my panels and need some advice.  I need to make the last 4 or 5 inches of a pannel have a radius or curve to it say a 4 in radius.  I am using 3003 .050 alum.  Not sure how to start.  I do not have a wheel or slip roll and do not really want to buy one just for a couple of curves on the  buggy.  Any help would be appreciated.

[trans man]

Start by bolting that end first to your frame and then slowly bent it around by pushing the panel by hand and keep on putting in bolts as you go. That's how I've done it in the past. 

[sandycrack]

I am using Dzus fastners and there is atleast 8 inches to the next one.  I am thinking the pannel will retain too much of the original shape and after powder or paint it mught crack being rebent to put back on.

[fabr]

OK started work on my panels and need some advice.  I need to make the last 4 or 5 inches of a pannel have a radius or curve to it say a 4 in radius.  I am using 3003 .050 alum.  Not sure how to start.  I do not have a wheel or slip roll and do not really want to buy one just for a couple of curves on the  buggy.  Any help would be appreciated.

Simple as pie. Just find a piece of pipe or anything rigid of a slightly smaller radius as desired. Clamp in vice. Take a wooden mallet about 2.5 inches diameter or 2# polyurethane deadblow(my preference)mallet and just start smacking the overhanging end just slightly over center and you will see the radius form as you work your way to the end. The wood mallet or poly will slightly conform to the pipes radius each time it is struck bending the all only ever so slightly each time making a nice smooth radius. You will only need a very small amount of finish sanding if at all to remove any blemishes. If you need a tighter radius go over it again. Remember that 3003 will work harden each time it is struck. If it gets too stiff after repeated reshaping you can anneal it with a propane or acety torch easily.

[sandycrack]

Cool thanks for the help!

[fabr]

Just backyard,learned the hard way due to no money practical method. The "die" needs to be about 1/2-1" smaller than you want to develop. Strike across the face of the "die" in parallel lines as described about 1/8" apart too start with full length of part/area being radiused.  Give it a good moderately firm smack. You know,not too hard but not too soft. Sort of a Goldilocks thing. You'll get the feel quickly. I suggest you cut a scrap piece approx the same  shape and do a test run on it. you'll know when you will want to do the real part.   That might not make sense now but will when you get started...............I hpoe. LOL!!!

[Double D]

I have a piece of 3" Tubing and welded angle iron on the ends so I can clamp it to a table; you just stick the Aluminum under it clamp it down and bend it with your hands, no hammer marks to remove or sanding or polishing.  That material should be pretty soft and easy to bend.

[Engineer]

Simple as pie. Just find a piece of pipe or anything rigid of a slightly smaller radius as desired. Clamp in vice. Take a wooden mallet about 2.5 inches diameter or 2# polyurethane deadblow(my preference)mallet and just start smacking the overhanging end just slightly over center and you will see the radius form as you work your way to the end. The wood mallet or poly will slightly conform to the pipes radius each time it is struck bending the all only ever so slightly each time making a nice smooth radius. You will only need a very small amount of finish sanding if at all to remove any blemishes. If you need a tighter radius go over it again. Remember that 3003 will work harden each time it is struck. If it gets too stiff after repeated reshaping you can anneal it with a propane or acety torch easily.

I hate to disagree, but I would not use a hammer as you will never get the marks out.  That thin of sheet can easily be bent around a pipe by hand.  It does help to clamp a piece of backing to the end of the straight section to make it start bending where the pipe you are forming around is.

Also the acetylene trick will make the aluminum very soft and maleable but at the same time it will turn it into a potato chip, so unless you plan to completely form it later I wouldn't suggest it.

YMMV

[fabr]

You haven't worked with 3003 much have you. I have formed many 3003 pieces as I described. WHat you guys say about just bending around a radius works fine till you need to do something other than a simple straight  line radius. WHat you gonna do where there isn't a straight line to follow. Say a sweeping curve with a radiused edge??? Read up on hammerforming metals my friends.Read up. WHat I described is a well known and followed technique.

[fabr]

I hate to disagree, but I would not use a hammer as you will never get the marks out.  That thin of sheet can easily be bent around a pipe by hand.  It does help to clamp a piece of backing to the end of the straight section to make it start bending where the pipe you are forming around is.

Also the acetylene trick will make the aluminum very soft and maleable but at the same time it will turn it into a potato chip, so unless you plan to completely form it later I wouldn't suggest it.

YMMV

That's the beauty of 3003. It can be easily annealled AND rehardened easily with a torch and water OR by cold forming.

[sandycrack]

I am having success with a sweeping bend with my hands and clamps as described.  I rolled the edges of the panels with a softblow hammer.  For creases in a panel I clamped between a couple of 2x4's and that worked as described.  I have the panels pretty much done with just some final attention to detail.  I have put the panels aside and removed the engine and performing the final welding to prepare to send the frame to powder.

[Engineer]

You haven't worked with 3003 much have you. I have formed many 3003 pieces as I described. WHat you guys say about just bending around a radius works fine till you need to do something other than a simple straight  line radius. WHat you gonna do where there isn't a straight line to follow. Say a sweeping curve with a radiused edge??? Read up on hammerforming metals my friends.Read up. WHat I described is a well known and followed technique.

If it was more complex than a straight line I would just give up.

[sandycrack]

So if it were a sweeping curve with a radius edge couldn't you make a buck to form it around?  Just curious.

[sandycrack]

Another newby question here:  so when tigging AL you have to be careful to not contaminate with other metals like carbon steel.  So I hve 2 pieces to tig together and I have a steel welding table to work on.  Will the steel from the table not contribute some contamination to the weld since it is a butt joint and will be touching the table? 

[fabr]

Not an issue at all unless you're melting the steel also. Don't worry about it.