DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => Motor and Drivetrain => Topic started by: fabr on January 25, 2021, 08:43:07 AM
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Started up buggy just to keep it all ready to go this spring. Well,actually just to hear ir rumble. :m As it came up to temp there began to be an almost too light to be heard click. Not rhythmical but a constant click so light I thought I must have been tripping. rofl Anyway,I gave it little thought. I did a couple warm ups and short drives the next couple days and the clicking just kept getting more noticeable to the point it was easily heard over the engine. Soooo,out comes the listening hose trick and then the stethoscope. The click was only detectable at the belt tensioner. It was loud in the stethoscope and definitely no other place on the engine(I probed every last component ) had the noise. Like any reasonable person would do I replaced the tensioner. Did it fix it? Wellllll,of course NOT! WTH?? I'm thinking it is a non rhythemical noise so that would rule out anything internal but,in desperation,I decided to run the valves on the off chance I would find something. So,off come the valve covers and as I remove the one with the crankcase pressure release valve it rattles. The thing shouldn't rattle. I take the Peterson valve apart on lo and behold it had came apart internally and the piston was free to just bounce around.Put it back together and the noise was gone. My ,never to be answered,question is why did the noise only come through in the tensioner since the source was in the valve on the valve cover? Weird,glad it was a simple ,no real issue,fix. Had me pissed for a few days though.
On a side note the SB2.2 repurposed Cup Car engine dry sump pump easily pulls 14 + inches crankcase vacumn when running at a bit over idle to max rpm and I use a vacumn regulator in one valve cover to keep it around 10 inches. At idle however,due to the extremely light ring tension used for sustained high rpm with high crankcase vacumn usage normally seen by these engines it will have a fair enough amount of blowby at idle to lose all the vacumn in the pan and actually build crankcase pressure,hence,the pressure regulator that came apart being in the other valve cover. Regulating both vac and pressure helps keep the oil in and dirt out.
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those issues drive me crazy. even if you repair it, you still need to know why. some of us do anyway.
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There's more to this story. It has to do with MLS gaskets. I'm beginning to think I'm cursed. bs1
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or has mls dropped the quality of product?
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btw, tony stanger or whatever his last name is........ he recently informed me that a ring gear is a flywheel and a flywheel is actually call a ring gear. basically we all have it backwards and our measuring system is pre-historic LMAO i saw this morning he has made another comment. i didnt have time to read it ..... but i will tomorrow LMAO its times like these that i no longer care whats right and whats wrong....... i just like to see how mad he'll get LMAO he talks down to people with no reason to and most of those kids take it. he butted in and did so to me. i responded in same like kind. he didnt take it well so i responded again LMAO i'm like the brother in the back seat holding his finger .25" off the other brothers face saying " i'm not touching your face" rofl
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so what's the fix?
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Well,here's the story. I am just fricking cursed apparently. Most of us know I have an SB2.2 small block Chevy in the big buggy. I have been quite happy with it,now around 1000 miles on it plus dune time. No problems at all. Well,all that changed about a month ago. Decicded it was time to run the valves and get all ready for our spring get together. Pulled the plugs to do a leak down test and WTH?????? WATER!?!?!!!! Did I mention I seem to be cursed? Extremely small but it is leaking about a teaspoon a day into it. Leak down sux as well. Sooooo,it is tear down and freshen time. Probably do a piston swap to use a more robust/durable ring package also.
The question is why the water after all this time. Only one cylinder. I;ll do a magnaflux on the block,pressure test on head and see what's up.
I can't see how the gasket can be at fault.
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I'M JUST GOING TO SAY WOW...... WHAT A RUN OF BAD LUCK. Good luck on the repairs. 5: 5: 5: 5:
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I'm going to start a water well drilling service. I seem to find water a lot................................... Here's a bit more to the story. I have taken heads off and replaced head gaskets and that did no good . Still had water in cylinder. I can only surmise that there has been a crack occur or porosity open up. With 100 psi on the leak down tester it takes several minutes to begin to show water level rise extremely slowly in radiator neck. It is obvious that there is a path from water jackets to cyl/combustion chamber and vice versa.There is only 3 ways for that to occur. Blown gasket/cracked cyl or crack/porosity in head.
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lets hope its a shitty gasket and not a chracked block or head! if it is a gasket then brand will you try next time? out of curiosity, have you put a wrench on the head bolts just to see? i know you are very maticulous about such things but one never knows.
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When this started it was a felpro that made it about the thousand miles before it started leaking. Retorqued heads but no fixxy . Then I pulled heads and replaced head gaskets with more felpros. Mm Still leaking and in same cylinder. I have learned to distrust torque wrench settings and now use a strain guage to verify torque wrench setting is accurate.
SOB still runs like a raped ape though!!!!!
I just can't see the gasket being the issue but it will ,of course, be closely inspected again.
The bitch of all this is that I was going to freshen it up anyway but thought I'd wait till fall. :m