DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => Chassis and Suspension => Topic started by: fabr on April 14, 2015, 09:07:54 PM
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Few pics showing the shaft repair sleeves from SKF (and others) First and third are of the sleeves with flange that allows the thin walled sleeve to be easily driven on with the correct press fit. Last one shows how the flange is designed to allow it to just be peeled off easily. Second shows sleeve with flange removed.
Soooooo,everything went as planned,repairs made,torquing the cv through bolts and guess what. THREE OF THE EFFERS WERE STRIPPED OUT. Likely from the accident a couple years ago. DAMN!!!!! 5 days till dune trip. Figures. ANOTHER next day air charge IF I can get G-1 to answer their freaking phone. Freaking unbelievable.
Gear -One continues to be on my CRAP list. There is absolutely no reason for these repairs being needed .The repairs needed should be part of the design from the beginning considering the use of these things.
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4 seals,4 repair sleeves = $700.00
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I will never order anything from them again.... 8 months to get a simple part...
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4 seals,4 repair sleeves = $700.00
Damn; did they buy your diner, give you a cig and use lube!! bs1 bs1
Just doing maintenance on cv's?
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Yup. $700 bux. The large repair sleeves are $134 each alone!!!!! The 4 sleeves and 2 of the seals are SKF ,off the shelf items. The large seals are G-1 available only. Custom size things. I was amazed though that the 2 large seals from G-1 were the least expensive items!!! $35 bux each.
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gear one has been like this as long as i can remember. my first taste of a one of there products was the reverse box unit they were building for sand bullet!! expensive pos that never held oil and never stayed in forward gear from day one and with a return trip to be rebuilt still brand new!!
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Well,guess what. They have upgraded (seems like a common BS theme in the offroad components world)the aluminum parts that should have made from steel all along. Only a $750 upgrade! Oh ,the killer part,THEY HAVE NONE !!!!! Soooo,it's helicoils for now. bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 The lady was very nice though. eyes eyes
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Well,guess what. They have upgraded (seems like a common BS theme in the offroad components world)the aluminum parts that should have made from steel all along. Only a $750 upgrade! Oh ,the killer part,THEY HAVE NONE !!!!! Soooo,it's helicoils for now. bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 bs1 The lady was very nice though. eyes eyes
Atleast you got that. Usually when a problem comes up, they dont have parts, and they're dicks cause you broke it. rofl
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i just have to ask......so what size and hp rail are these rated for by gear1???? and a 2000 lb rail with a 280 hp motor did what to them again??????
ff:
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i know there could be a few that disagree with me about that having anything to do with stripped holes etc etc but still ;D
does kartek ( or another competiter) offer a set like these or are these based on there design? if so what do they make there's out of?
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It appears that all brands of midboard hubs used aluminum originally. All apparently found out that was a bad idea. GEEEE,YA THINK !!!!???!!!?????? SFAIK know,all either have changed to steel for all components but for the hub itself or offer it as an option today. Just my luck. Hopefully the helicoils and steel repair sleeves will hold up and I will skip the $750 for upgrading to steel components. I feel pretty confident it will work. The helicoils can be a full .750 long instead of just 3/8ths or 1/2 inch long as most are. The cv bolts will engage the full helicoil length. I would use a solid thread insert but ,no room or at least I feel too much material would be lost and strength would be definitely compromised.
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Bad luck with the parts mate. Any chance you can tell us the bearing part numbers just out of curiosity?
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I'll try to remember to look later today when I get to reassembly.
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Thanks. Just another thought, you could have drilled and tapped a new set of holes between the old ones if you wanted.
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Crap,I forgot,in the rush , to get the numbers. I still have the other side to do. I'll do that side when I get back from this trip,didn't want to chance further issues with only 3 days to go.
Drilling another set of holes wasn't an option I wished to use. Best option was the long length helicoils. Did the repairs on the mill.Came out perfect. I'm not likely going to spend the money to upgrade the components with steel. The sleeves should stop further excessive wear and the heli's will prevent more stripped threads for a lot less $$$$.
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sounds good to me. and i hear ya on tearing stuff down with only 3 days to go lol lol i have never been there lol
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Got the HRT back together last night. All new cv's and billet boot retainers. Put it on the scales. It's a pig 2085lbs. 2480 with me and the wife in it. 70/30 balance.
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Got the HRT back together last night. All new cv's and billet boot retainers. Put it on the scales. It's a pig 2085lbs. 2480 with me and the wife in it. 70/30 balance.
that is heavy and i know mrs fast is only 100 lbs of that 2480 so what does that say LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO
is the balance with you and mrs or empty?
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Got the HRT back together last night. All new cv's and billet boot retainers. Put it on the scales. It's a pig 2085lbs. 2480 with me and the wife in it. 70/30 balance.
I'm not listening to any of that pig stuff. My car is around 1800 with sand tires,a bit more with dirt tires/wheels.
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Front to back empty is about 25/75 With me and wife in the car then it go's to 30/70 so not much change. interesting to know is with just me in the car the balance stays the same at 25/75. I am going to run the rear spring pressure up to nigh because the car is sagging some in the rear. Plus I had 300 psi in the shocks before I started the over haul of the them and I only put 250 psi back in. I am going to run them back up to 300 psi. Getting the oil level right mite be a problem all so. All the information I have on Fox shocks say to fill the shocks to 6.5 inch down from the top of the barrel and that is with no shim in them. So with about 2.5 inches of shims to keep my droop in line at 22* I put the oil level down to 8.750 from the top of the barrel. My spring pre load was 2.0 inches down from to top of the shock but wen I put them back together with the new spacers I had more spring then shock. I had to use a spring compressor to get them to gather. With that I only run the adjusting nuts down and inch. Mite have to run them down some more. I'll be kingmaker some finial adjusting while at the dunes.
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I'm not listening to any of that pig stuff. My car is around 1800 with sand tires,a bit more with dirt tires/wheels.
Are you talking about your new car Fabr?
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My fat ass tipped the scales at 1100, rofl.
I'll be loaded tomm and ready to roll out Tue after lunch.
Hoping the new bellowed uppipes on the truck, and the water/meth inj are gonna pay off.
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kick
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My fat ass tipped the scales at 1100, rofl.
I'll be loaded tomm and ready to roll out Tue after lunch.
Hoping the new bellowed uppipes on the truck, and the water/meth inj are gonna pay off.
Save your self some money and mix the water with e85 instead of the meth. Jerry and I are running it now and it works as good as the meth. Keep the mix at 40 percent e85 to 60 percent water and your good to go at around 2.25 a gallon compared to better thee dollars a gallon.
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Save your self some money and mix the water with e85 instead of the meth. Jerry and I are running it now and it works as good as the meth. Keep the mix at 40 percent e85 to 60 percent water and your good to go at around 2.25 a gallon compared to better thee dollars a gallon.
Did some diggin after I read that you were running that, and not 100% sure pump insides are compatable with the 15% gas. Granted it be dilluted down, but? Running 30% meth washer fluid.
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I'm not likely going to spend the money to upgrade the components with steel. The sleeves should stop further excessive wear and the heli's will prevent more stripped threads for a lot less $$$$.
You do still have a CNC mill right? Those would be pretty easy to whip out in steel if you have any more issues.
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You do still have a CNC mill right? Those would be pretty easy to whip out in steel if you have any more issues.
True,very true. The 2 seal surfaces should be ground though as opposed to milled/turned.I'd have to farm that operation out. On second thought though,my spindle speed is 10,000 rpm. Hmmmmmmm,I'd hate to eff up and explode a wheel but it would be doable. Honestly,I thinkthere will be no more issues other than wear in the seal area but the sleeves are a simple service item now.
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High helix EM will give a good enough surface for a seal to run on.
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Good advice,thanks!!!
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Are you talking about your new car Fabr?
No,new car will likely be around 2800-3000.