DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Member Project Logs => Topic started by: phelpsracing1 on November 04, 2008, 08:43:29 PM
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Here are some of the build pics of my last buggy build. It has a Yamaha FZ1 1000cc engine, Fox 2.0 Air Shocks, 930 CVs, 27" ITP Tires and 14" ITP SS112 Wheels. Most of the components were fabbed in my shop with the CNC Plasma cutter. I used 1.25" tubing for the main frame and 1" for some of the intermediate bracing. I am using a 12 tooth counter sprocket and a 60 tooth rear sprocket.
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Some more
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Almost finished frame
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A Arms, Trailing arms, and rolling chassis
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Nice buggy, keep us updated.
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Nice buggy, keep us updated.
Love that avatar David M!
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Good looking build!!! I wish i would have that of the bent bars for the seat mounts. I just welded mine solid 3 days ago. Great idea and good looking so far. Keep us updated. mm:
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Yea they were straight to begin with. After I mounted the seats and sat down in them, I just didnt like the room or the head clearance. So I cut them out and put something else in. I welded and changed all kinds of things several times on the whole frame before I got everything the way it needed to be.
Just cut out your seat mounts 405dentech, and put in what you want. Your welder is kinda like a time machine. You can go back and change anything!
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Frame and engine mounted
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Yea they were straight to begin with. After I mounted the seats and sat down in them, I just didnt like the room or the head clearance. So I cut them out and put something else in. I welded and changed all kinds of things several times on the whole frame before I got everything the way it needed to be.
Just cut out your seat mounts 405dentech, and put in what you want. Your welder is kinda like a time machine. You can go back and change anything!
I just ran taller tabs for the front of the seats. But I really like the way you did yours. Plus have you checked the price of metal lately? 3:
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True, It has almost doubled in cost here where I live from about this same time last year. I hear the price should be coming back down now that gas is dropping. I hope that is true because I'm ready to start another build
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The scrap market has had the bottom fallout I hear.
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I just ran taller tabs for the front of the seats. But I really like the way you did yours. Plus have you checked the price of metal lately? 3:
DO you have a skid plate under those seats to stop a tree limb enema from possibly occurring?
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:r
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DO you have a skid plate under those seats to stop a tree limb enema from possibly occurring?
Not yet but I was going to do a full floor.
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BAD NEWS!!! Went riding down at the river today on the sand bar. The car handled GREAT!!! Got it wound out and all the way to 6th gear. Drove around for about an hour up and down, back and forth down the river. Suspension was pretty much tuned in, hardly felt any bumps and super smooth in the straightaways. Excellent power all through the gears. Tons of people were there watching and then it happenned.... the chain came off the sprocket doing about 75mph. Knocked a hole in the case right in front of the countersprocket. Riding was finished.
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wow that sucks.. people dont run chain gaurds? ??? that should be fixable huh? weld a piece over the hole?
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Did the master link break, or was the chain too loose?
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Love that avatar David M!
I chose it because the women at work think that's what im there for. That's the luck i would have with chain coming off.
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Yea Im gonna try to weld a patch over the hole. Got to clean the oil off the case and around the hole, that will be the hardest part. The original guard didnt fit over the new chain location. I was going to fab one up later. The chain never broke, but I checked it before I started riding and it was tight. I really dont know what made it come off. Anyone have this happen before or any ideas?
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You could have stretched your chain. Mine stretched a lot when I first started runnign it hard, then it stopped stretching. Are you sure that you have no flex? I would place my bet that the chain now fits loose, or your sprockets aren't lined up right.
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I've been looking at your pictures pretty close, and it looks like your sprocket may be too small and the chain may not be seating in the sprocket fully. Your countershaft is huge, and with the sprocket being that small, the plates on the chain may be hitting the countershaft before the rollers fully seat in the teeth. You might want to check that and make sure the plates are not hitting the CS.
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Great looking buggy. It is a shame about the chain some lessons are learned the hard way I am sure your posting that may save someone else from the same problem. Thanks for posting all the pictures. I plan to build a buggy and I will pay special attention to my chain after seeing this. I hope you can get it fixed soon.
Mike
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OK got it fixed! Welded up the hole...started this morning and just got through. A spinning chain can really do some damage. It also cut up some radiator hoses and mangled up a few wires in the harness. Yes, let that be a lesson to everybody building a buggy...run a chain guard!!
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I have been trying to replay it in my mind on what happened. I was in 4th coming up on a small jump with a sloped landing so I let off the gas and when I went over the hill and hit the slope I got back into the gas. That's when it happened. I am assuming on decel the chain got just enough slack that when I got back on the gas it jumped a tooth and spun off. I thought the chain tension was set but maybe loosened as I rode.
What kind of tension does anybody else run? I had about a 1/2" on approx 18" sprocket centers.
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Since nothing really moves around, I've been running it to where it was just slightly loose, not motorcycle loose. I can move it up about 3/8-1/2 inch from where it normally rests. It's not taunt though.
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Looks like you found the pieces that broke out?? If so that was good.
Off to the work bench to build a chain gaurd, since I cant seem to keep my chain tight.
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The top half of the case was still there but was cracked in several places. The lower half was completely gone. I found bits and pieces along the ground but they were all too small to fit back together. I cut a 2"x2" piece of 6061 T6 Aluminum and used a grinder to make it fit the contour of the existing hole. TIG welded the patch to the case.
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Here are some of the painted frame
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where did you get your sprocket and what kind of hub did you use to mount it?
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Oh I also run a 12 front and a 64 rear sprocket
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Hey Voodoo, I got my sprocket from www.SprocketSpecialists.com
They have just about any kind of sprocket that you would need. I made the hub from 3/16" plate and a weldable hub from Tractor Supply. I cut the plate with the plasma machine to cover the sprocket bolt holes, drilled the holes out in the plate, and welded it directly to the hub.
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so what short axle are you using? splined? are the hubs splined?
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The center shaft is a 1" shaft with 1/4" keyway. The hubs are 1" bore with 1/4 keyway also. The shaft itself is starting to deform around the keyway causing slack in the sprocket hub to the axle hubs. I have TIG welded the sprocket hub directly to the shaft. This is holding for now but you can not give it a wide open throttle from a standstill or it will spin the key right out of the keyway and break the weld. I am going to change the center shaft to a splined one very soon.
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I have built a few rails with Kawasaki's, Yamaha's, Suzuki's and and one Honda. it has been my experience that smaller than a 13 tooth countershaft sprocket will wear very very fast. on the rail I built with an '03 R1, I used 13/62 tooth with a 12" tall rim 10" wide with the blaster 26's. also I always ran RK brand O ring chain, the standard RK roller chain would get hot and stretch alot and then cool and shrink back most of the way. when this happened the chain would try and throw as I was cornering, again were talking about a lot of stretch. the O ring chain never did this.
just thought I would throw this out there in case it helps.
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Thanks dsrace for the help, but I'm using an o-ring chain. I kinda think it was a combination of a lot of different things that made it come off. The chain got looser as the day went on. Also when I jumped the hill, letting off the gas caused slack in the chain and then getting right back into the gas it spun off. Also I read somewhere that when jumping its better to put the clutch in on the landing to ease the pressure on the driveline. That makes sense to me when the engine countershaft is turning a certain RPM and then when the wheels hit the ground they come to a slower speed abruptly, that put a serious load on everything. Is this right to assume?
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I believe that's the general consensus.
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Thanks dsrace for the help, but I'm using an o-ring chain. I kinda think it was a combination of a lot of different things that made it come off. The chain got looser as the day went on. Also when I jumped the hill, letting off the gas caused slack in the chain and then getting right back into the gas it spun off. Also I read somewhere that when jumping its better to put the clutch in on the landing to ease the pressure on the driveline. That makes sense to me when the engine countershaft is turning a certain RPM and then when the wheels hit the ground they come to a slower speed abruptly, that put a serious load on everything. Is this right to assume?
what size chain are you using? I have always run #530 with is the same as standard 50.
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I believe that's the general consensus.
yep.
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here is a pic of one of the last chain drives I built.
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Yea I run a 530 chain too.
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