DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV General Discussion => Topic started by: P.hunt on August 25, 2017, 06:57:50 PM
-
Just got a King Sand Car with a Hayabusa engine and I'm having trouble taking off from a dead stop. Some times it all goes well and seems normal and other times it seems like I have to really rev it and super feather the clutch?? I stall it on take off about 30-50% of the time. rofl Don't feel bad,I do it all the time. ;)
I also feel it's too high geared I spend most of my time in the dunes in second gear third seems to either be way too fast or bogs out real easy. Is this normal for the busa cars? I'd love to be able to take off easier and use more of the gears is there a way to lower the gears down somehow?
I have a 14 tooth front sprocket and I don't have any room in the rear to go bigger on the rear sprocket. There us a 13 tooth front available. What is your rear count?
I'm looking at doing a Tom Pro reverse (unless there is a better option) which has a 1.38 to one gear reduction built in. I'm not sure what that means or how much of a difference it will make??? It will reduce your overall ratio by approximately 1/3.
nyone have any recommendations for me? I love this car but I'd like to make it more useable!!!
-
what size tires are you running? what does the rail weigh? what is the rear sprocket tooth count? a 13 tooth counter shaft sprocket does work fine on those engines.
-
Ok first one I'm working on is a gen 2 engine it has a 14 tooth front sprocket and the biggest rear sprocket I can possibly fit!
Rail weighs about 1600-1800 with passengers I'm told - not completely sure
Tires measure about 30-31" tall including paddles
Are there secrets to these clutches I've read that even the street bike guys complain that they feel different every launch!
What do I need to build the best possible sand rail clutch for this engine?
-
I'm still running the same clutch since I built my busa car several years ago. Lots and lots of miles on it. Mine weighs over 1800#'s with dune tires. Stock frictions are ,IMO and many others,the best out there. Add HD clutch springs,possibly modify or replace back torque limiter(I still have the back torque limiter in mine). Some feel a billet ckutch basket is mandatory yet I'm still running the stock basket.It may fail tomorrow but............... Clutch should be the least of your worries.
-
http://www.hayabusazone.com/clutch.html (http://www.hayabusazone.com/clutch.html)
Trac king clutch plates/discs
super heavy clutch spring kit
clutch cover support (must do this with the springs)
This is what I run in mine and the only thing that has lasted.
-
Stupid question but you're sure your starting out in first gear? It is a bike and first gear is in a different direction than all the other gears.....
We need a tooth count on the rear sprocket.
-
Yah I'm sure I'm in first. I'll try to get a sprocket count soon.
-
We assume you are using a 530 chain. Is that correct?
-
We assume you are using a 530 chain. Is that correct?
this is an excellent question.....many in the past believed the 630 chain was the strongest however several 530 chain manufacturers like ek zzz 530 x ring or o ring chains have are as strong if not a tad stronger than 630. going 530 allows you to go a few teeth larger on rear as well. i ran a 14/70 ratio on my turbo busa rail with 30" sand viper paddles 1100's. my rail was 1300 lbs ....absolutely need a clutch slave saver and order a back tq eliminator from schnitz racing along with there good clutch and stronger clutch springs. i know fabr still has his but he has a gear box. on my sprocket drive rail that back tq limiter made dead stop take offs jerky in mine. cheap and easy to replace while changing clutch.
-
i do believe a stock clutch would be just fine as well with stronger springs and a slave saver is a must. make sure you use the proper oil for the bike engine as well as it is a wet clutch so a friction modifier is required in the oil. that back tq limiter makes the take off choppy or shaky and can diminish the take off. my rule of thumb always was 13/62 or 64 at around 800 lb to 900 lb using blaster 26 paddles. the 15" rims with 1100 paddles require a deeper gearing. stu makes a blaster 28 paddle but only fits 14" rim. much better tire than the 1100 and prob 8 to 10 lbs lighter per tire. if your running the 1100 paddles then you'll prob want to be 13/70 or 14/70 min. counter shaft sprocket/rear sprocket.
-
i USE MOBIL1 20-50 v-TWIN IN MINE.
-
i was using the mobil as well on mine. enemy does too if i'm not mistaken but after looking on the back there is a specification for the additive.
-
IF you need a custom rear sprocket made that'll last a few years not a few rides let me know.
-
What kind of buggy rider makes posts about his car with out sharing at least 5 pics of his car!! ??
-
What kind of buggy rider makes posts about his car with out sharing at least 5 pics of his car!! ??
Yeah! We love pics.
And he makes a fantastic sprocket.
-
yes where are the pics!
i can attest to jersdunz sprockets! turbo busa and no real where after 2 years!
-
Here's one
-
Here's the other one
-
Had it out over the weekend to test the shock revalve.
I went to a 15 stack with a flutter and it doesn't bottom out any more but it rides too rough in the chop.going to drop down to a 12 stack no flutter or a 12/15 combo and see how that goes. I was able to take the woops in second flored and it handled great!
I really practiced my take offs and the car doesn't start to move till the very last bit of the pedal and it's still very touchy!
Had a great time but broke a stud off of the heim joint on passenger lower spindle. Had to use a few ratchet straps to limp back to the trailer!
-
could you post a pic of your spindles or just one of them?
-
nice looking rails btw
-
Yes.nice cars for sure. Post a few pics as ds said. We learn stuff sometimes.
-
i ask, as i`m wondering if king sand cars continued using the same spindles as short sand cars did. the spindles king has used as long as i've seen their rails. if so, and if your going to continue running them, then there are good and bad studded heims. of course, a more widely used design with double shear ends on the spindle uprights is, imo, the better way to go. this is why i asked, if you replace those studded heims with ones that are steel on steel ( especially the low carbon steel ones) or with the ones with the white nylon liners this issue will happen again and must faster. those are weak and the white nylon lined ones will lose the liner, the stud will separate, then your spindles separates from the a arm and well you can imagine the rest! only use chromolloy with kevlar teflon lined, i speak from experience.
-
LMAOi ask as i`m wondering if king sand cars continued using the same spindles as short sand cars did as king has as long as iave seen there rails. if so, and if your going to continue running them, then there are good and bad studded heims. of course a more widely used design with double shear ends on the spindle uprights is, imo, the better way to go. this is why i asked as if you replace those studded heims with ones that are steel on steel ( especially the low carbon steel ones) or with the ones with the white nylon liners this issue will happen and again and must faster. those are weak and the white nylon lined will lose the liner and the stud will seperate then you spindles seperates and well you can imagine the rest! only use chromolloy with kevlar teflon lined, i speak from experiance.
+1! (I use QA-1)
-
fabr can you post a link?
also on those studded heims, it's important to pull you limit strap, drop the arms and find the point where they bind. you want to stay atleast 1 to 2" above this point and remember ....even the best limit strap stretch's 1" per foot!
-
http://www.qa1.net/rod-ends-and-related/rod-ends/endura-series/xm-series-chromoly-steel (http://www.qa1.net/rod-ends-and-related/rod-ends/endura-series/xm-series-chromoly-steel) The X series is what I use exclusively. Never had a failure yet but you know I don't undersize anything either. ;) ;D ;D Lots of places to buy with varying pricing but much less than FK or Aurora.
Here's just one example. https://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/11560/QA1_High_Strength_Alloy_Rod_Ends
Jegs/Summit and I think Speedway as well.
-
i have always been amazed the radiators mounted on the side like that never overheat! i must work though