Check out this guys work. WOW

[fabr]

Use a gas lens,and a thumb button.
Weld the joint with plenty of filler.
Go back over it with no filler pulsing and positioning using the thumb button for heat only.
 If Boostinjdm does this on the weld he posted a pic of it will look just as good.

+1.   boosts welds look like MOST of mine. I agree that you MUST use enough filler to make a good fillet AFTER good penetration.

[BDKW1]

You guys make Me laugh. Paul "ZT fab" Has built more cars than most of you combined. If anybody knows what will hold up in an off-road crash, he would be one of the top ones.
 
Carry on........

[Carlriddle]

   I am not a big fan about going back over the weld to make it look like stacked dime's.  I have seen good welds crack doing that.

Artie check this weld out.  This weld is MiG.  I have watched this guy work and he is and artist's with a MiG.  He works for a buggy shop out of Garden City Kansas called Jackson's Motor Sports.  This one will get you all wet.  I have tried my best to replicate this and can not do it.

Looks like one spot at a time, little black/brown spot in middle.  I'm no pro but from what I read not the strongest weld.  Damn pretty though.

[fabr]

You guys make Me laugh. Paul "ZT fab" Has built more cars than most of you combined. If anybody knows what will hold up in an off-road crash, he would be one of the top ones.
 
Carry on........

That may well be and that in itself may be why the welds are not as full as many do them. I mean a RZR isn't likely to be going a hundred miles an hour. Soooo pretty is COOL.

[fabr]

I need to add that they are damn nice looking.

[artie on edge]

   I am not a big fan about going back over the weld to make it look like stacked dime's.  I have seen good welds crack doing that.

Artie check this weld out.  This weld is MiG.  I have watched this guy work and he is and artist's with a MiG.  He works for a buggy shop out of Garden City Kansas called Jackson's Motor Sports.  This one will get you all wet.  I have tried my best to replicate this and can not do it.

yeah, thats the stuff. Love it. Seriuosly,I could look at stuff like this (which Icant get close to) for ages. I do appreciate a good tradesmans work.

Thanks Fast, if I was a girl..........

[fabr]

There was something in the thread that made me sit up and say WHAT to tho. He (Ztfab)said he cleaned the tubes after bending ,as we all do, and then said he scotchbrited or something the birdmouthed tubes but not the intersecting tube.  I have to admit that I never scotchbrite/sand/grind moly tube before welding. It seems like others are fanatical about it.Seriously I've never had a weld break,not that there isn't a first time waiting for me, but I just don't see the importance of it.

[Nutz4sand]

You guys make Me laugh. Paul "ZT fab" Has built more cars than most of you combined. If anybody knows what will hold up in an off-road crash, he would be one of the top ones.
 
Carry on........

Maybe so. But he either admits this is for a show rig or he gets in in it an hits a abrupt jump with a kicker to perform a crash test to PROVE ITS a solid job. Till then its a show rig. Not much stress pulling on or off a ramped trailer at 2 mph. 

I might take into consideration other buggies he has built (scince hes done a lot as you say I sure there are wrecked ones) with a crash on it worthy of testing his joints and I want to see those joints up close on the crashed buggy. See if they are done any differently.

Pretty is pretty but can be pretty dangerous.

I aint Gods gift to welding but those welds look weak. Proof is needed just like for anything. Just cause someones done something a hundred times does not make them right.

Don't get bent out of shape. I just wish to know  (like so many others would too). Bill 

[Boostinjdm]

There was something in the thread that made me sit up and say WHAT to tho. He (Ztfab)said he cleaned the tubes after bending ,as we all do, and then said he scotchbrited or something the birdmouthed tubes but not the intersecting tube.  I have to admit that I never scotchbrite/sand/grind moly tube before welding. It seems like others are fanatical about it.Seriously I've never had a weld break,not that there isn't a first time waiting for me, but I just don't see the importance of it.

Removing the mill scale or whatever the coating is allows the weld to flow out better preventing cold lap and contamination.  It is especially helpful with stuff like angle and channel that has a thick coating.  When tig welding the bead will have a brighter shine and mig welding you will have a noticably more stable arc.  Hot rolled materials tend to have a much thicker layer than cold rolled or formed. 

[fabr]

Removing the mill scale or whatever the coating is allows the weld to flow out better preventing cold lap and contamination.  It is especially helpful with stuff like angle and channel that has a thick coating.  When tig welding the bead will have a brighter shine and mig welding you will have a noticably more stable arc.  Hot rolled materials tend to have a much thicker layer than cold rolled or formed. 

I understand that. I said I don't do it on moly.

[BDKW1]

I understand that. I said I don't do it on moly.

Try if sometime, you'll like it. Welds come out much more consistant and cleaner. Some people even like to wipe down with accetone post sand, pre weld.

[Yoshi]

I clean my tubing with paint thinner, and usually call it good to weld.  Although if I want a really nice weld, I will tack the tube in place, then grind the groove with a wire wheel and they come out effin sweet. 36 grit on an angle grinder works really nice too, but the wire wheel only takes off the area you need to weld, so it's quicker to prep for the weld IMO.  I grind all the sharp edges down after I notch, which gives you more meat to weld........

[fabr]

Paint thinner contaminates the weld. You'll regret doing that on aluminum.

[Boostinjdm]

Paint thinner contaminates the weld. You'll regret doing that on aluminum.

+1

And Brake kleen, avoid that shit like the plague for cleaning anything that will ever be welded.  Stainless brush and or flap wheel are the best.  I don't use liquids cuz the whole flamable can of shit near welding thing kinda bugs me.  The reason I brought up BrakeKleen is cuz it's toxic anywhere near an arc.  At work the guys at the other end of the shop (300 feet away)  would be using it while I was welding or it would get used to clean grease off parts before welding.  First comes the tears and burning , then the gut ache, and some people get sick or pass out from it.

[SPEC]

Yup...
I touch up the area to be welded...36 grit flap wheel, or the belt sander when deburring...and wipe all the pickling and die juice down with Laquer thinner...no residue...but makes a interesting fire when you forget to toss the rag in the steel bucket