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91
Chassis and Suspension / Re: Now I have gone and done it.
« Last post by Stickflipper on January 17, 2024, 07:36:01 PM »
Time will tell  ;D




Thanks for the ride invite, a bit far to Little Shara  :D
I summer in Idaho and winter in Yuma.
92
UTV General Discussion / Re: can am defender
« Last post by fabr on January 16, 2024, 02:42:48 PM »
Worst case of brain freeze ever. That is one stupid SOB!!
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UTV General Discussion / Re: can am defender
« Last post by dsrace on January 16, 2024, 07:12:25 AM »
-9* ambient this morning so a little warmer then the last week. Saw a hard-core bicyclist this morning on my way in. I say hard core because its -9*  ;D





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UTV General Discussion / Re: can am defender
« Last post by fabr on January 13, 2024, 04:20:01 PM »
 :m
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UTV General Discussion / Re: can am defender
« Last post by dsrace on January 13, 2024, 02:33:35 PM »
My wife shoveling the front steps while I high centered the utv pushing snow. Turns out 3 ' it too deep lol



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UTV General Discussion / Re: can am defender
« Last post by fabr on January 13, 2024, 10:15:12 AM »
LOL!!!!! You can keep that snow up there. Don't need/want it here.
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UTV General Discussion / Re: can am defender
« Last post by dsrace on January 12, 2024, 11:07:28 AM »
One of 3 reasons i bought the defender for was to plow snow at my place. Have now used it 4 times and works surprisingly well. Not so great on white rock but def usable. Got to use it on Christmas day while the kids were still here. Grandson rode along but fell asleep in 20 mins lol

Got 9" of new snow tues and another 4" overnight. Still blowing 40 mph gusts and another 4 to 6" today. Possible additional 4 to 6" sat. The heater makes all the difference in the world! Found the limits of the snow blade and utv in the deeper snow drifts lol I drive a lesabre for a commuter car. Its not going anywhere anytime soon as seen in the pic. I don't feel like shoveling the drift and we have an awd acadia suv for snow travel.









98
The reason I don't hVe room for 2 shocks per corner is because I don't want to cut back farther into the frame as well as where my exh is routed.  I need to get this done and enjoy it. I did make some good progress yesterday before my eye injection. Yes I had to get another one. Only made it 4 months since the last one. Looking like they will become a life long routine. Not happy about that either. Took a lot of adjustment ,trials and scrap pieces but I am getting slightly better at welding right handed with only a left eye.  Didnt the any pics of the progress yesterday either. All the mounts are in place to mock up the left a arms so I can make some jig fixtures off of them. The upper a arm is wider at the frame than anticipated but I have my reasons for it.   

I like air shocks and always will. Price, weight and ease of tuning is un matched imo. You are correct, there are limitations. For Oklahoma they work just fine but I'm out of the weight class in the 2.5' on my rear. You cannot leverage an air shock as much as you can a coil over. That depends on the weight too. On the front I wouldn't hesitate on a 2/1 factor and would prob try 2.5 /1. In the rear, 1.5/ 1 might be the better ratio. 

Thats not why I want these as close to the wheels as I can. Thats dues to a spacing thing that ill know more about once I get the a arm made. Its a guess at this point but a guess based on where my shock will have to mount.
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I like the way you built that back end. Always have and thought I would look through the pics. It looked welded but not easy to view on my phone for some reason. I have 2 tabs left to tack weld and drivers side is all mocked up on mine. I had to make a fixture to extend my crude fixture to find a arm pivots that match that of the wheel bearing carriers. I know you have plunging axles , so less critical then in my case.No,I do not have plunging axles.the only plunge with these 934 non plunging cv's is the spline in the star. I designed it with zero theoretical plunge.Ended up with approx 1/8" real world.Busa buggy had the plunging axles but were not needed and haven;t ever slipped.Was a waste of money/time.Hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you matched your carriers well. I cadded up the pivot points for both inner and outer to align with center of star.

Yes I like a little higher stance. Yes I like a little more travel. Yes external by pass coupled with a coil over are best.   I have internal bypass 2.5' for the front and am looking for the same for the rear. I have the 2.5 c/o set off the krx, they are not internally bypassed. Did learn that a 2.5 internally bypassed shock is actually only a 2.0 inside. I am looking at 3.0 internally bypassed as a result but thats on a back burner at this time.   

As far as wheel travel goes, I want the front end level to 2" higher then the rear. So my plan is to set the rear 2" lower and mount shock as close to the wheel as I can. 15" stroke shock and the 3.0 I find will be 15" as well. 15" because of a rubber bump stop on the shaft.  For this reason , I am aiming for only 20" travel in the rear. I do not have room for external bypass and a coil over on the front or rear.Somehow,I knew you would say something like that................. ;D ;D ;D FWIW I think that preference is due to your experience with the airshox that probably necessitated that much travel due to their limitations.
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Got a couple ideas to connect the top with a removable cross brace. Just not sure how I want to do that yet as I ran into fabricators block lol  thats what prompted the visit to your build pics. My fuel tank has to sit on top of the trans so my cross bars have to incorporate the fuel tank tray as well.
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