DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => Motor and Drivetrain => Topic started by: dsrace on May 06, 2023, 08:33:15 PM
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Got the new tank in scotts rail, fired it and drove it. Was going to install eps and re valve rear shocks but......... decided thats for chris to tackle on his next visit. Its time to come out of the trailer for revival.........before you say it mitch, not out of the closet , I don't drink budlight LMAO LMAO rofl
(https://i.postimg.cc/sQhmqMKP/20230506-203843.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQhmqMKP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Fkvy6DYm/20230506-203854.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Fkvy6DYm)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jCYBKTNq/20230506-204642.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCYBKTNq)
Enemy you can stop looking..... I found my other 18" limit strap rofl
(https://i.postimg.cc/sQY61BSj/20230506-203918.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQY61BSj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9DsJpPYX/20230506-210603.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9DsJpPYX)
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8) 8) 8) 8)
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Hey, enough of the queer budlight jokes, I don't know that guy LMAO 5: :m
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budlight69 has gone to the closet and re-emerged as DeepBusch69? :m ;D ;D SorryMitch,I couldn't help myself. rofl rofl
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Hey, enough of the queer budlight jokes, I don't know that guy LMAO 5: :m
Soooooo new username and I like where your mind was at when you came up with it . The exact opposite of the all new budlight business model :m
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Thoughts on a ss fuel tank with no liner or I would have to send off for lining. This one might fit behind my seats , sitting on the floor. I have a full aluminum floor. Would get the weight lower in frame and allow me to merge my inner cooler and radiator and relocate my ump air filter.
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=82/category_id=133/mode=prod/prd82.htm
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Or
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=166/category_id=133/mode=prod/prd166.htm
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Or
https://www.westmarine.com/moeller-20-gallon-permanent-below-deck-fuel-tank-58inchl-x-6inchw-x-14.75inchh-8978611.html?msclkid=3f624a0f10781ced82d82e58f27cd39f
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(https://i.postimg.cc/nXW79D64/20230507-133643.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nXW79D64)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8FrvRCSq/20230507-133653.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8FrvRCSq)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nM1DY5yc/20230507-133703.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nM1DY5yc)
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Two shift shafts
(https://i.postimg.cc/2Vsrqj0q/20230507-133943.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2Vsrqj0q)
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Mounting points
(https://i.postimg.cc/JtHFsNvq/20230507-134355.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JtHFsNvq)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yggLSKQd/20230507-134359.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yggLSKQd)
Cv flange width is 9 1/8" wide on the hv24
Over all length is 30"
Megasand trans is 22.5" over all length (oal)
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Fabr, i Understand why you don't like bottom feed fuel tanks.
(https://i.postimg.cc/nC01fQjv/20230507-175816.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nC01fQjv)
I won't know until I stretch the rear cradle for the additional 8" of transaxle length but this one might be doable but only over the trans.
https://rcionline.myshopify.com/products/15-gallon-rci-rock-crawler-fuel-cell-red-30x10x14-5-2161j
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Those are poison pellets from tractor supply company. Wont buy any more for sure. The mice are not only immune out here but there taunting me buy transporting them and using them in there nests! They carried them up my tail pipe and hung out in my turbo!
(https://i.postimg.cc/wyk1RZmn/20230507-195509.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wyk1RZmn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9wFrdbP0/20230507-195524.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9wFrdbP0)
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Fabr, i Understand why you don't like bottom feed fuel tanks.
(https://i.postimg.cc/nC01fQjv/20230507-175816.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nC01fQjv)
I won't know until I stretch the rear cradle for the additional 8" of transaxle length but this one might be doable but only over the trans.
https://rcionline.myshopify.com/products/15-gallon-rci-rock-crawler-fuel-cell-red-30x10x14-5-2161j
There's more than that why I will not use a bottom outlet tank. What range/run time would you expect from a 15 gallon tank?
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Those are poison pellets from tractor supply company. Wont buy any more for sure. The mice are not only immune out here but there taunting me buy transporting them and using them in there nests! They carried them up my tail pipe and hung out in my turbo!
(https://i.postimg.cc/wyk1RZmn/20230507-195509.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wyk1RZmn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9wFrdbP0/20230507-195524.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9wFrdbP0)
I sell this stuff. I use it myself. I have had no mice for many years. I guarantee you this stuff works. https://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=ee2ab972-97ad-4344-87b3-139363a41e3e&itemguid=043d1156-c1f6-4972-995f-d5c99193475f&sfb=1&grp=6000&grpc=6100&grpsc=6110&sp=f&utm_content=20878&ccd=IFF003&gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItJPmocXk_gIVIP_jBx0NXwf9EAQYASABEgLJRvD_BwE
I was using those pellets for a few years and never had any luck with it. I added on to the shop and had to remove the steel siding. What do you think I found? The damn mice had been carrying those pellets back to their nests they had burrowed into the fiberglass insulation. I removed almost a 5 gallon bucket of those worthless pellets and began mice control with the Just One Bite bars, NO mice since. Probably 25 years now.
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So far, one days run at LS is 5 gals out of my current 11 gal spun aluminum tank. The tank works just fine and never had issues but in order to move the radiator back and the intercooler down, the tank needs to relocate. So my thought was 15 gal for when I go back to st a. Also had one good long hard run at ls and used 5 gals in one run.
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Ran out of time last night, but hoping to finish pulling the radiator and then the megasand tonight.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gnWMtCtR/20230507-200312.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gnWMtCtR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YhrPCcN7/20230507-200306.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YhrPCcN7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZBPfJjC0/20230507-213348.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZBPfJjC0)
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Got the rest stripped and cut a section of the cradle out to make it easier to pull the trans. Have to change the whole suspension cradle anyway.
Interesting site on the flywheel. Every now and then the starter would hit, sound like a short grinding noise and just spin. Wasnt often just once and a while. Always thought it needed to sit deeper into the bellowing. There are 14 teeth on the flywheel with some scaring . I think I could file the edges to clean it up? I know the tolerances on the hv24 are far better then the megasand. The megasand had known issues with starter mounts.
(https://i.postimg.cc/T58RJQh6/20230508-210511.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/T58RJQh6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hJfcFNdn/20230508-210521.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJfcFNdn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8sHp6dDq/20230508-211101.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8sHp6dDq)
(https://i.postimg.cc/w7yrpHW0/20230508-210619.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w7yrpHW0)
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Easy peasy cheap fix of the flywheel. Just take a drift and hammer to the ring gear. It will come off much easier than you would think. Just work your way around it sort of like driving a bearing race out. To replace the ring gear,put flywheel in freezer for a couple hours. Heat the new,deburred ring gear in the oven to 400 for 20-30 minutes.Have the flywheel on the floor,take ring gear from oven and then quickly slip it into place on the flywheel. It should drop onto the flywheel easily. Wear heavy gloves,work quickly. As it cools it will shrink to a press fit with no damage. I've done many that way when I was working on industrial engines.
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Good to see you finally working on your rail. What is the second shift shaft for, reverse?
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Good to see you finally working on your rail. What is the second shift shaft for, reverse?
that is an excellent question. according to sean at weddle they went to 2 shift shafts for the racers of baja. he said it creates much more positive shifting. thats really all i know on the subject and took his word for it.
after looking at the throw of my PBS mid engine shifter, it looks like a straight forward mounting. i will have to double check but i think reverse is opposite of the pic he sent but will verify that tonight.
either rotate and plunge , infact if you plunge one shaft the other rotates. you can use one shaft to shift it but sean recommends using two for the best shifting.
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Easy peasy cheap fix of the flywheel. Just take a drift and hammer to the ring gear. It will come off much easier than you would think. Just work your way around it sort of like driving a bearing race out. To replace the ring gear,put flywheel in freezer for a couple hours. Heat the new,deburred ring gear in the oven to 400 for 20-30 minutes.Have the flywheel on the floor,take ring gear from oven and then quickly slip it into place on the flywheel. It should drop onto the flywheel easily. Wear heavy gloves,work quickly. As it cools it will shrink to a press fit with no damage. I've done many that way when I was working on industrial engines.
as luck would have it, the shop across the alley from work machines flywheels. i asked him if i bring it in could he flip it and he said no problem. i know the owner and the guy in the shop so one last thing to do. thanks for the info and definately would try that before shipping it off !!
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Everyone has their own opinion but I would put a new gear on as opposed to flipping it. New gear is not that much &&
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Everyone has their own opinion but I would put a new gear on as opposed to flipping it. New gear is not that much &&
I will check on a price from kep . I have been considering shipping it back to have them machine it/open it for a 9" clutch vs the 8" twin disc i have now. The megasand wouldn't fit a 9" which is why I went twin disc stage 2 8". I say this as my end goal might be a 3.5 or 2.7 ltre ford ecoboost .
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The ring gear is just a standard part. No need to pay$$$$ to Kennedy.
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Going to have to cut the back section off the frame.. i will have to extend it 8 plus a bumper to aid in protecting the tail of the trans. That will add 1' to back end including the bumper.
So apperantly .25" thick 2.5" tall plare isn't strong enough for the base mount on my trans. Ill have to build the base mount better for the hv. The megasand has a cast flat base that bolted flat to that. 4 bolts, 2 on each side, It still bent. It bent forward too.
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0BPTzcR/20230512-182832.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0BPTzcR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TpX4HyCZ/20230512-182835.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TpX4HyCZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hX2Zj2cB/20230512-182846.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hX2Zj2cB)
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How is your engine mounted? If it is mounted such as front solid mount and back of block mounted solid you do not want a 3rd(front/center/rear) solid mount. You never want 3 solid mounting points . I have a solid single mount at the front/center of engine and a back of engine/mid plate. I put a standard rubber transmission mount at the back.
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So the motor mount in the center of the engine on both side are tubes ran up to factor plates. The bottom of the tubes have a poly bushing inside of them used on a arms. The rear top of the motor is mounted solid. The bottom of the tran under the bell housing also mounted solid. The tail of the trans also mounted solid.
(https://i.postimg.cc/nsMVWS0S/20230512-203300.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nsMVWS0S)
(https://i.postimg.cc/xNG9mw18/20230512-203307.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xNG9mw18)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5HZJR4Hj/20230512-203822.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5HZJR4Hj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/w1rY1qQF/20230512-203324.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w1rY1qQF)
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So was talking to Mike Harkins about why that bent and ideas on how to solid mount the trans aluminum case. If I'm following what your saying ( especially as my block and head are iron ) that solid mounting the engine , skip the aluminum trans mount under the bell housing and then rbuuer mount the tail of the trans?
(https://i.postimg.cc/w1RsrkFV/20230512-205030.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w1RsrkFV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kVxRJX0R/20230512-195917.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kVxRJX0R)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MfGnm0v1/20230512-195859.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MfGnm0v1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TpFKnDGW/20230512-195644.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TpFKnDGW)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/HjjW3k60/20230507-134359.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HjjW3k60)
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How is your engine mounted? If it is mounted such as front solid mount and back of block mounted solid you do not want a 3rd(front/center/rear) solid mount. You never want 3 solid mounting points . I have a solid single mount at the front/center of engine and a back of engine/mid plate. I put a standard rubber transmission mount at the back.
Never heard this before fabr. Mine is hard mounted at all 3 spots, no issues so far. I do not have a removable rear cage, it is all solid. Is the idea to allow for some flex in the frame?
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Almost all frames flex/twist,some more than others. With more than 2 solid mounting points the tendency to break frame rails/mounts or even bell housings is possible. The idea is not to allow some flex so much as accommodating it without breaking something.
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Megasand flange width is 9 1/8". 2" wider then the hv24.
While visiting Chris and Mark at the Jackson compound, I noticed their 800 and 1100 hp rails had flexible trans mounts. Don't remember if they were rubber or poly. I asked Chris about his and he said Justin at revenge racing said the trans needed to be flex mounted. I thought maybe it was vibration dampening. I never thought anything about it and this megasand is the only trans I rigid mounted it front and rear. The v6 had a lower front solid mount ( factory location ) i had a bolt on solid mount to the top ears of the 091 trans and a solid mount at the lower nose cone. Never had any issues and it was a 6 link rear. I wonder if an a arm rear adds to deformation/flex ? Chris and marks are trailing arm cars but the tq still adds a flex moment.
So let me ask this.....is there only and up/down moment on the trans from the r&p and the twisting /trying to roll over moment on the engine? Lost of vibration through my chassis from my engine and that has never bothered me. I could leave the engine solid mounted and see if a stock type 1 rubber bellowing mount would work on the tail of this one. They look similar in spacing but would have to get one to know for sure.
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How is your engine mounted? If it is mounted such as front solid mount and back of block mounted solid you do not want a 3rd(front/center/rear) solid mount. You never want 3 solid mounting points . I have a solid single mount at the front/center of engine and a back of engine/mid plate. I put a standard rubber transmission mount at the back.
Never heard this before fabr. Mine is hard mounted at all 3 spots, no issues so far. I do not have a removable rear cage, it is all solid. Is the idea to allow for some flex in the frame?
Is your trans mounted front and rear and only one mount on the motor? Or is the motor mounted in two spots and the trans in 1 spot? Can you post a pic or two?
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Fabr, which standard trans mount are you using on the trans? Got a link?
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Was playing around with some tape. Custome cover will no longer fit due to frame extension for new trans. So if I have to have it altered then I thought hmmmm I've liked the look of the new funcos
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0WY61DW/20230513-104658.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0WY61DW)
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Mine is mounted at 2 locations on the transaxle, 1 on the engine.
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Fabr, which standard trans mount are you using on the trans? Got a link?
It's just a standard manual trans mount like was used on almost all GM cars/trucks back in the 60/70/80's etc. I think this is it. https://www.amazon.com/DEA-Products-A2268-Transmission-Mount/dp/B0067UC89I/ref=asc_df_B0067UC89I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=316747946823&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5635300168012924412&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1024352&hvtargid=pla-816507886032&psc=1
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Unless the engine and/or trans is designed to be a structural member there should not be 3 or more solid mounting points to the frame. This is to allow the frame to move ,as it will,without putting the stresses into the engine block or trans. Most tube frames leave a lot to be desired when it comes to structural rigidity. That is not to say there are not lots of cars out there with 3 or more solid mounts that get away it without issue but it is not good practice. You have seen how much things deflect as evidenced by the bent mounts.
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Was playing around with some tape. Custome cover will no longer fit due to frame extension for new trans. So if I have to have it altered then I thought hmmmm I've liked the look of the new funcos
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0WY61DW/20230513-104658.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0WY61DW)
Ummmmm,nope. It's your car though.
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Mine is mounted at 2 locations on the transaxle, 1 on the engine.
Thanks for the pic. I like it!
I'm going to pull that megasand out and put a straight edge across that bottom mount, to be sure. It looks straight/flat and is 1" thick section.
I like the idea of solid mounted trans and a flex mount on the motor for vibration. The rear hv24 mounts are .75" thick but the fronts are only .38" thick. I'm sure it strong quality cast aluminum but the motor is iron.
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Was playing around with some tape. Custome cover will no longer fit due to frame extension for new trans. So if I have to have it altered then I thought hmmmm I've liked the look of the new funcos
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0WY61DW/20230513-104658.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0WY61DW)
Ummmmm,nope. It's your car though.
:m :m
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Couldn't wait, had to see, can't seem to push hard enough to make it fit ;D :m
(https://i.postimg.cc/94W08VNd/20230513-185501.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/94W08VNd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MMLGpBZ5/20230513-184933.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMLGpBZ5)
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Well feel a bit foolish. That meagasand trans base mount looks flat but is not. There is a hump in the middle.
(https://i.postimg.cc/tYGsZLHH/20230513-174113.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tYGsZLHH)
Looks like a new clutch too.
(https://i.postimg.cc/K1qcNWCj/20230513-202514.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K1qcNWCj)
And the hv24 has a larger input shaft.
(https://i.postimg.cc/CBDFwx5n/20230513-202507.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CBDFwx5n)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jD5tLXCb/20230513-202535.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jD5tLXCb)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PLvHM5mV/20230513-202529.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PLvHM5mV)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/rzjpszg5/20230513-202454.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzjpszg5)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1nYY7Gsp/20230513-202459.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1nYY7Gsp)
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ordered twin clutch discs, floater plate, pressure plate, pilot bearing and longer stud hardware kit as the hv24 bellhousing require 1.5" longer studs then the megasand did. the price of the clutch has almost doubled since i bought that one. didnt think i needed a pressure plate but know the trans locked and killed my engine while trying to make it over the dune and again when i revv'd the motor and side stepped the clutch thinking maybe i could break the whatever loose inside the trans . all that did was stall the motor! i am surprised the input shaft to the trans didn't snap as small as that is. not quite $200 for the pressure plate, $350 for discs and floater plate! all from kep of course. i probably could've re used the floater plate but it had a number of purple spots on it as well as the face of the pressure plate. flywheel side looks fine.
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So I dropped the flywheel off today for a light surfacing job and a new ring gear. Looked like the clutch may have spun a bit when the trans locked up climbing that dune.
Didn't realize how much sand was packing up under the pbs shifter/ center console.
(https://i.postimg.cc/4YcQYg7S/20230516-204039.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4YcQYg7S)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wtHL3sd1/20230516-204047.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wtHL3sd1)
Decided the simplest way to install the new trans was to cut the entire rear end off and start over. There was just no saving it the way I had hoped plus this significantly reduces the amount of grinding !
(https://i.postimg.cc/68QNKM8q/20230517-220650.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/68QNKM8q)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZCsJWktp/20230517-220657.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCsJWktp)
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I have my doubts that the trans locking up had anything to do with the evidence of slipping. IMO,it was slipping before that . Most likely durin g engagement. Do you rest your foot momentarily on the pedal at times such as anticipating the next shift?
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I have my doubts that the trans locking up had anything to do with the evidence of slipping. IMO,it was slipping before that . Most likely durin g engagement. Do you rest your foot momentarily on the pedal at times such as anticipating the next shift?
Going to say no on that one.
Loading it on the trailer for that last trip.....slipped the ever living $hit out of it to get it up the launch pad this my ramp gate ! ;D
Does that count rofl LMAO
All cleaned up now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t7q3FP0j/20230518-104117.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t7q3FP0j)
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Uhhhhhhh,you have something called a winch........................try it,you will like it.
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Uhhhhhhh,you have something called a winch........................try it,you will like it.
The first time I loaded it, I wanted to see if I could w/o the winch. Spund the paddles on the ramp gate twice, slipped the clutch a lot but got it in. The return trip, locked the trans up , pulled axles and thought ......no problem, thats why I optioned in a 3500 lb winch ;) so while witching it up the gate, the winch went into thermal over load 3/4 of the way in. Luckily Allan a a couple others were there to help push it in.
I reached into feel the winch, wondering what happened and grabbed one of the main batt cable lugs on the winch. Burned my finger it was so hot. They had for to tighten the cable to the winch lugs and they were arcing. 30 mins later it cooled down and worked again but sounded bad. I replaced it with a 4500 lb winch with a better lower amp draw motor. Ya know, since they only used 8g wire to run 12' per cable with an 80 amp draw! That when I noticed they used 1/4" lag screws to mount the winch. I made steel plates to back the winch under the floor as well as to bolt the winch too. Was only able to catch the frame on the front ends of the plates but thats far better then lag screws into 3/4" plywood! Now I have a winch to winch it in. Dune sport is a such a quality custom toyhauler manufacturer. Customer satisfaction is job one there! kick
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That's why a winch needs to be vehicle mounted. My 3500# Warn on the busa buggy is just right. Pulled me out of the bottom of a deep bowl in Glamis. I can't say enough positive about the synthetic cable either. No more wire rope for me. I really have no good place to mount a bigger one on the big buggy though. Damn!! Didn't plan that too well.
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No room on the front end to permanently mount one. I agree,Synthetic rope is def the best way to go.
Hung the trans last night to get an idea of which direction to go. Going to have to get creative bending the lower cradle tubes. The r&p section dips lower then the case. The case on the megasand was narrower even thought the drive flange width was wider then the hv24. I was considering returning to a 6 link rear end as I can set those up quickly. That and I still have the forward steel rods and mounts. I have the old 6 link carriers still as well.
Well with the way the drive flanges are recessed into the side cover slightly.....well that makes an a arm rear simpler now. That statement has everything to do with tab placement and shock will have to mounted to the wheel bearing carrier irregardless. Not enough room inside this frame for coil overs.
So I had decided to leave the center motor ( bushing mounted at frame) and mount the trans in 2 spots. I would cut the upper rear motor mount and make that a bolt on in case I ever need to pull the trans out. A section of the rear cradle needs to be removable as well for that same reason. Didnt with the megasand as I thought, I won't have to pull this more then once down the road. Well here we are for the 3rd time and swapping out to a better one. :m
(https://i.postimg.cc/jLrCPjRy/20230518-200534.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jLrCPjRy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Lq78X9yY/20230518-200405.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Lq78X9yY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PPhrNFM4/20230518-200339.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PPhrNFM4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/WdY2WpcW/20230518-195143.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WdY2WpcW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4HGZ7mpd/20230518-195432.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4HGZ7mpd)
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Sounds like a good plan. I like the mounting idea. Just in time for the next 20 revisions................ ;D ;D
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So my children were back over the long weekend as we had a funeral to attend. Didnt get much done on my rail even with good help. Got everything ground down and cleaned. Sleeves were beat in to the lower cradle. More then a tap fit ;D had to use a sledge hammer to tap them in. Slipped and folded a bolt in the adaptor plate , went to un thread it and it broke. So 10 steps back, hoping the left hand drill bit set will back it out..... hoping ;)
Son in law and I got the eps installed and steerable in the red rail. It needs a controller and wired.
(https://i.postimg.cc/JGXXr1ZV/20230529-181132.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JGXXr1ZV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bSkvhwMm/20230529-180844.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bSkvhwMm)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LnFXVjYw/Resized-20230529-125025.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LnFXVjYw)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vDN78qK9/Resized-20230529-124130.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vDN78qK9)
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Progress is progress no matter which way it goes. Looks like you have it under control as usual.
I've been fighting alternator issues the last 2 years. I believe I finally have found a cure. I'll get some pics and post them up when it gets here. I have the pics of the mid board hub maintenance and will get that done as well. Been a bit busy of late.
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Due to differences in case width i had to come up with a drop around the side cases. Not as tight as I would like to have achieved but as tight as my bender would do. 4 back to back bends and it works.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t7VjyxXt/20230531-220244.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t7VjyxXt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KKY6WKqT/20230531-220310.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKY6WKqT)
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Progress is progress no matter which way it goes. Looks like you have it under control as usual.
I've been fighting alternator issues the last 2 years. I believe I finally have found a cure. I'll get some pics and post them up when it gets here. I have the pics of the mid board hub maintenance and will get that done as well. Been a bit busy of late.
Look forward to reading that.
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So I was inserting my interference fit sleeve tubes into the lower cradle , with a 10 lb sledge ;D then the worst happened.... I missed and bent a bolt on the adaptor plate. Thank goodness for left hand drill bits and easy outs. Didn't try and bend the bolt back. I tried to un thread it but it snapped off flush the second I tried. I know better then to make those tight fits but I got impatient.
(https://i.postimg.cc/68ZcpB8P/20230531-211117.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/68ZcpB8P)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QBsQN1GB/20230531-211112.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBsQN1GB)
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Looks good especially that very tight 4 bends. difficult to do let alone duplicating it for the other side. Well done. Yep those LH bits solve a lot of issues.
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Looks good especially that very tight 4 bends. difficult to do let alone duplicating it for the other side. Well done. Yep those LH bits solve a lot of issues.
Thanks, I did get both sides bent up. It was time consuming but I got it. Hoping to finish fitting all of it this weekend. Have a couple other things I need to work on this weekend as well.
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haven't gotten back to working on my rail since about a week after my last post. had a lot of family events along the way. my latest hold up is the day after my birthday , i woke up with basically a bleed in my right eye. where the retina attaches, the center layer of tissue had a bleed or more so was seeping blood into the back of my eye ball. woke up and almost couldn't see out of my right eye. some of that has cleared but the main focal point is blurred pretty bad. i have seen an eye surgeon and was told this is most likely permanent. so my welding days are pretty much over or atleast on hold for a while. my eye has cleared up some. i can sort of balance them out if i wear a light gray pair of sun glasses and pull the lens out of the right side. cannot focus clearly on anything in that right side so its def a blind side now. don't want to over stress my one remaining good eye by welding. only time will tell if it clears up any better. waiting another two weeks to see how it progress's before they try injecting fluid into the center layer of tissue into the back of that right eye. don't like the possible risks of that be it low risk or not but i think ill roll the dice if thats the only option. for now i am wearing a pirate patch over that eye off and on through the day to give it a break when it starts bugging me. its like waking up in the morning with sleep in your eye and you cannot blink it away clear. really weird to just wake up this way and the morning after my b day. really mess's with ones depth perception and balance! starting wearing my contacts as that is far less strain on the eyes vs eye glass's. cannot read shit up close with contacts in so i have to wear reading glass's with contacts in rofl i think the prescription is off as it clears up my vision a lot farther away then my glass's do.
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Well that sucks. Hope ALL goes well. If I wasn't so far away I'd offer to do the welding. Sure as hell hope it doesn't interfere with your duning .
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BTW contacts suck in a lot of ways. I have a love/hate relationship with mine. My optometrist runs and hides when I visit.
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Contacts should be easier but I honestly think they guess more then we know.
If it doesn't heal up, I won't be able to lead for sure. Nasty blind spot on the rt side.
Enemy graciously volunteered to weld the back end up. Still will be a bit before I can get it ready for that.
Today I have noticed a slight improvement. With polarized lenses in my sunglasses, in direct sunlight, my rt eye does focus slightly better with less haze. Its like a haze or a shaded lens covering the eye. Will have to buy 2 pair of sunglasses to swap lenses.
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I have almost daily painless migraines that last for 30-60 minutes that start out as a small spot that looks like a pixelated picture that slowly grows till it covers the entire view.Then it just disappears. I wish you well with the retina getting pushed back into position. I know a couple people with that issue that have done well. One had to lay on his stomach 24 hours a day though for IIRC a month. He did have a total recovery as a bonus.
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its not the retina per say. the retina attaches to the rear, attaches to 3 layers at the rear. the eye muscle has strained long and hard enough it has stretched the center layer of tissue like stretching spandex short until you can see through them like window screen. those large stretched sections filled full of blood. that blood isn't going away fast but seems to be subsiding very very slowly. hopefully continues but there isnt really anything they can do other then monitor for now. the needle back into that center layer to inj fluid may lighten the haze but carries risks like everything else. the retina is attached, they said the pressure on my eyeball is as it should be. they don't know why it happened and said usually its more gradual, not an overnight thing....normally. one of the risks of the needle back there is detaching the retina. they say low risk but still a risk. i guess normally when this happens to people, it does so in the perifial vision area, not dead center like mine. they don't want me straining my eyes for some time to be safe though. also , they discussed adding die to my blood via an iv so they could check to see if there is blood seeping out of a vein in the back of the eye ball.
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If in doubt don't hesitate to get another opinion. Don't take any chances with the eyes. I know you won't but well just don't. Don't want to lose a duner.
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If in doubt don't hesitate to get another opinion. Don't take any chances with the eyes. I know you won't but well just don't. Don't want to lose a duner.
already gotten a 2nd opionion. same diagnosis. this wont end my duning, i will have to learn a diff way and prob wont be leading the group any more. there has been some improvement in that eye. not sure how if it will come all the way back, only time will tell.
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I tell you what, learning to weld right handed only using your left eye is proving to be more difficult then I thought it would be. Slowly but surely I am getting it done. Def not my best looking welds but will be safe enough. Spent the long weekend cutting down and fitting the new suspension cradle together. Had high hopes of getting the trans mounted too but had a few set backs getting pieces fitted in. No jig fixtures to hold anything and triple measuring only goes so far when tubes pull when you start to weld them. I have no doubts that It will be just fine in the end.
The lower cradle is sleeved, plug welded and I added a tube to over lap the seam. I also cut down a few old fitting to keep the upper rear frame removable to make trans removal easier. Decided to cut the frame section and make that enter piece removable to ease the removal and installation of the engine as well. Those were in the set backs category as they were additions. I hope I got 5he placement of the cross tubes in the lower cradle correct. Was measuring to be sure changing trans fluid would be as simple as possible. Plus the externL trans filter is attached by an fittings. The return is on the back side of the r&p belly of the trans. Was important to be sure no tube was in that location as well.
(https://i.postimg.cc/tY0zkTcs/20230904-161858.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tY0zkTcs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zbbnSZSw/20230904-161853.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zbbnSZSw)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bSf2xGv8/20230904-161846.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bSf2xGv8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8sLv1byC/20230904-084833.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8sLv1byC)
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I'm lucky in that I'm semi ambidextrous. You'll get the hang of it. One of my long ago employees lost his vision in one eye in early teens. He had near perfect depth perception and raced circle track. I asked him how the hell he could do it. He said he constantly looked left to right and that gave him the ability to judge distance just as good as any of us. My point is your brain will compensate and before you know it it will be normal to you.
On a side note,any of you know of/know Tim Howard of the Buggy Shop in Hutchinson , Ks?
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Before I say anything, I need to know why you are asking about Tim Howard?
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I know of the buggy shop in hutch. I do not know a tim Howard. I have worked on a couple of rails, purchased new, from the buggy shop but do not remember the owners name. Obviously, The customers weren't happy with the owner or I wouldn't have been sorting out those issues.
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I am not ambidextrous in the slightest bit. My biggest issue is seeing down the right side of something while I am welding. It will take time for sure and have learned to drive a car this way. 2 more shots in the next 2 months so we will see.
On another note. If you look back at a couple pics, I made some compound bends in that lower cradle to clear the r&p section of the trans. I did so because I didn't want to cut the motor mounts out or relocate the engine. Well, I had cut the motor mounts and have to move the engine. Those compound beds were tricky on a manual bender so I wasn't throwing them away.
The megasand trans is not a centered trans. Didt remember nor notice until I temp hung the new cradle tubes and saw how far off centered the trans was from the cradle. With a tape measure, by my left eye :m the megasand is offset almost 1.5". The new hv 24 is centered so that changes even more. The mendi 2d would've been. Lot easier to install and already have the shifter for it! But oh no, I had to have the stronger trans with an internL water pump with a 3rd bearing on the mainshaft :m
Its all good, just get to relocate the engine a tiny bit. Gives me the chance to move the trans back a bit for better bolt clearance too.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yJSqTFXc/20230905-174749.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJSqTFXc)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hXN4g428/20230905-174809.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXN4g428)
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Change one thing and there is always 10 others crop up needing change. Isn't it fun?
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I needed an appraisal for the big buggy for insuring it. Insurance sent me to the buggy shop. I had known of the business for a long time but never talked to them before. Tim is the owner. He's a bit different but seems OK. I will say that if he likes a person I'm betting he is a good person to deal with but I can also see it going sideways in a hurry if a customer pisses him off justified or not.
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I have never stopped into the buggy shop. Considered it once on my way down but didn't want to add time to the drive just to see it. Never met the man, have no personal knowledge of the place other then what I saw with stheir work on a couple sand rails. Heard some rumors over the years but again no personal experience.
Yes, any/every change can/will create a ripple effect through and entire build. I doubt i will have mine running for the next du e trip. Scotts runs and drives. Now has a fuel tank that won't rupture like the last. The eps is installed but not wired yet. I have the controller for it just haven't gotten back too it. Spent 3 days repairing my truck but other then that, I have been extremely mindful of my activities hoping for best case results for the shots In The eyes. I can barely imagine 2 more and have now spoken with people that get them monthy for years now.
BUT........ I need to know my limits and how to adapt in case this is permanent. So working on the rail again as it needs to be done. Scotts rail is still fun just not ad fun :D ;D. Since those compound beds are in the new cradle there is no re using the a arms. Going to try a diff design this go round which will take extra time as well. I feel it will be worth it in the end though.
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Before I say anything, I need to know why you are asking about Tim Howard?
spill it.
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Brian N, how are your rails?
On another note, spec called me last Friday. Hadnt heard from him in a very long time. Very sad to hear that he lost his wife.
Hes still making beef jerky and what not. I asked him to price out 10-1lb bags of mild.
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I haven't done a whole lot on the buggy's. In the process of adding proximity sensors to my turning brakes on the Honda. I need to actually finish a project before starting more. I need the room to finish my Subaru. (Still) But I also just started preparing/researching for installing a blower on the Honda.
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I haven't done a whole lot on the buggy's. In the process of adding proximity sensors to my turning brakes on the Honda. I need to actually finish a project before starting more. I need the room to finish my Subaru. (Still) But I also just started preparing/researching for installing a blower on the Honda.
a blower ;D i like where your minds at :m
i completely understand the need for more room!!
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When I was at the Buggy Shop getting an appraisal he had 3 little 4-71 blowers he used/uses on VW engines. About the size of a soccer ball. Cute little things. I'd never seen one before.
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I have never seen a blower on a vw. That is an interesting thought.
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I had not either. Even a tiny 4-71 is a big blower for a vw. I ,out of curiosity,did some reading on it. Seems the 4-71 is rated at something like 120HP capable.
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Had a friend years back that had a blower on his sand rail, but the motor was always overheating. It looked cool, made good power, but couldn't run long without getting hot
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That was/is a common issue with a roots style blower from what I understand. No personal experience .
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It was melting some of the hoses on the engine once, but he was wanting to sell it. So we towed him back close to the gate, then he drove it back in. He didn't want anyone to see him getting towed! 5: LMAO :m
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It was melting some of the hoses on the engine once, but he was wanting to sell it. So we towed him back close to the gate, then he drove it back in. He didn't want anyone to see him getting towed! 5: LMAO :m
Not thats damn funny LMAO LMAO
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Got the rest of the motor mounts cut off and ground back. Had to make another cross tube for the trans cradle to support the rear trans mount. Made the front mounts using 2x3" .25" wall. Left one will have to be rebuilt as I made a miscalculation....... long story there and a boring one. Cut the new piece when my wife came out and told me the toilet is leaking in the bathroom. The sub floor is soaked, clear through into the basement. No idea how but the 2 piece tank nut has come loose. 3 bolts and one was loose enough it was leaking behind the tank. I just rebuilt that toilet 2 or 3 years ago with parts from menards. Might be buying a 1 piece toilet. That mess killed the rest of my day.
(https://i.postimg.cc/624N9T8v/20230910-201606.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/624N9T8v)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hf1R4ktp/20230910-201601.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hf1R4ktp)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4mxRd8HG/20230910-201555.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4mxRd8HG)
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Looking good for sure.
I have wanted a tube grinder/polisher. I finally bought one and should be here tomorrow. They are finally affordable. I know nothing about the quality but reviews were favorable.
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Looking good for sure.
I have wanted a tube grinder/polisher. I finally bought one and should be here tomorrow. They are finally affordable. I know nothing about the quality but reviews were favorable.
Is that just the grinder attachment or does it come with a grinder? What did that cost? Normally I would go to those lengths but prob not this time :)
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Complete tool. It was $127.99 with shipping. https://www.vevor.com/belt-grinder-c_11006/tube-belt-sander-pipe-polisher-around-pipe-electric-sanding-machine-120v-800w-p_010823003675 I couldn't really pass it up. Ya probably chinese and a copy of ones costing 600 or so bux. No more use than I will give it it should be fine. I'll let you know tomorrow what my first impression is.
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BTW, belts are 2-4 bux from this place.... https://www.empireabrasives.com/1-1-2-x-30-inch-sanding-belts/?utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign=AMG+-+Sanding&utm_source=adwords&utm_term=1.5%20x%2030%20sanding%20belt&hsa_acc=9836372714&hsa_ver=3&hsa_mt=b&hsa_grp=50292413490&hsa_ad=452230303080&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_tgt=kwd-300628869006&hsa_cam=1341315015&hsa_kw=1.5%20x%2030%20sanding%20belt&hsa_src=g&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvqL59d2jgQMVszLUAR17nAvOEAAYASAAEgKRgPD_BwE
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I might just have to give one a try myself.
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It showed up just now. I have to say I'm impressed at this point. Only possible negative could be the non-metallic rollers but the belt runs slow and I doubt there will be any hot dust generated to affect the rollers. The motor sounds great,runs very smooth.It has soft start which I really like. Tool seems well designed. I'll put it to work a bit with the included belt this afternoon and report more.
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It showed up just now. I have to say I'm impressed at this point. Only possible negative could be the non-metallic rollers but the belt runs slow and I doubt there will be any hot dust generated to affect the rollers. The motor sounds great,runs very smooth.It has soft start which I really like. Tool seems well designed. I'll put it to work a bit with the included belt this afternoon and report more.
Based on your review, I may have to purchase one.
I say that because stell has gone up, alot. My dad used a bunch of the .120 wall dom 1.5" tube i had set aside for another frame. Now with the eye thing......probably my last frame. If it works well I will probably tear it down , clean up some spots and have it re powdercoated so that all of it is again.
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I might get to try it later this evening. Got a sick animal needing paid attention to. I'll let you know my opinion of how it performs hopefully tonight.
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just found this interesting
https://weddleindustries.com/products/new-products/weddle-hv2-transaxles-better-bearings-and-more-them-equal-strength
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Weddle did their homework.
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Yes, weddle did !!
On another note, received my 2nd eye injection yesterday. Another miserable experience but a tad bit less miserable this time since I hade the eye ointment and ibuprofen ready to go.
I have been told from others that have yearly, bi yearly and a few that have monthly injs they have no problems. One guy stated he gets a shot in both eyes and drives home. If you have ever had crap blow into your eye, your eye clamps shut and tears up to the point of tears running down your cheek from that eye....... thats what it feels after the run a needle into both spots in my eye. One in the cornea and one into the back of the eye ball. Must be diff then the others cause no way I could drive home with shots in one eye let alone both eyes!!
My vision has been improving at a slow rate but baby steps are better then degrading! The distortion in the center has been reduced and I test a fuzzy weak 20/30 in the rt eye yesterday. 3 weeks prior i tested a fuzzy 20/50. 4isk of infection is really touchy the first 3 days. So working 9n my rail for a week. Next pair of injections is 1 week before the dune trip. I will be running scotts rail. I would say "again" but we never really got much run time on the last trip cause the impact legal "offroad" labeled fuel cell from speedway ruptured......twice :m. Wont be a problem this time. Just need to get the eps controller wired in and paint that section of the frame where I added the eps mounts.
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Sounds good /positive.
As for the tube grinder. The grinder belt that comes with it sux balls. Ordered a few different ones to try before I rate the thing. It looks good.soft start,low belt speed. All good and the tool quality seems pretty good. The belt supplied is just tooo stiff it appears and does not grab the drive wheel well and it slips. It was also way too coarse unless a very rough finish is desired.
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Sounds good /positive.
As for the tube grinder. The grinder belt that comes with it sux balls. Ordered a few different ones to try before I rate the thing. It looks good.soft start,low belt speed. All good and the tool quality seems pretty good. The belt supplied is just tooo stiff it appears and does not grab the drive wheel well and it slips. It was also way too coarse unless a very rough finish is desired.
I look forward to the review. I can see a few uses for that tool!!
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So far not too happy. Belts slip on drive wheel. It works if careful but not as expected. Slow belt speed is good though. I will try to figure out the fix for the slipping. I think the spring that tensions the movable arm is too weak. I'll try to get some time to fool with it.
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Well, post up if you find the winning combo! I bet it works pretty good once correct.
Got a tny bit done on my rail but nothing picture worthy. The rear trans mounts are a bit of a mind F ! The case twists at the intermediate housing so the rear mounts don't sit flat. drivers side is 1" taller and makes it a bitch to level. I used the cv flang face to level it and then spent some time finding 4 points to square it to the trans.
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Such a nice piece should have symmetrical mounting points. Is there any reason they could not have done so?
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Such a nice piece should have symmetrical mounting points. Is there any reason they could not have done so?
I agree and I am not sure.
I know the hv series started life as reproduction versions of the 094. I have never looked at an 094 close enough to notice if the rear of the case is twisted. With out knowing/seeing the insides of this hv24, I cannot say if there is or isn't a reason but assume there has to be.
After a lot of different diagonal measurement and trans in and out a couple time, I found points I could use to center it in the cradle. The front at the bell housing is easy, its the rear thats twisted and warped , I just chuckle everything I look at it. Also explains why they don't off a weld on lazer cut mount or anyone else that I could find.
I just looked, I do not have a single pic on my phone in a full length shot.
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Only pic on my phone that sort of shows it. Back end is twisted clockwise.
(https://i.postimg.cc/YjkZW399/20230513-202454.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YjkZW399)
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Snapped a few cell pics tonight. Now that I have found a few point from which to level it, the rear mounting ears are with in .25" of each other. Maybe its my bad eye throwing me off too. The rear is def cast at an angle. I'm sure there's a reason for it. It does make mounting it a touch more difficult but definitely doable. Interesting to see it built that way though.
The main case where the gears are housed, its offset a little bit to the right side. Not sure if it can be seen in the pics.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5jSxPPCV/20231002-173027.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5jSxPPCV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ppVP3Dfn/20231002-173028.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ppVP3Dfn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/18fs3sYm/20231002-173032.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/18fs3sYm)
(https://i.postimg.cc/N9wcDTGF/20231002-173042.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N9wcDTGF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/N5PvVZGW/20231002-173045.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N5PvVZGW)
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:m Well,that is just goofy looking . :m I;m sure they had a reason other than "bet this will eff with their heads" ;)
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:m Well,that is just goofy looking . :m I;m sure they had a reason other than "bet this will eff with their heads" ;)
Isn't that the truth! Def messes with ones head when trying to eyeball anything on the trans :m
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All I ever saw were side views. I had no idea it was twisted/clocked off level. I am curious why .
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:m ya it's not straight and mess's with one mind while trying to level and square it :m
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How's the eye doing? Is this car going to be done for the end of October trip?
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How's the eye doing? Is this car going to be done for the end of October trip?
The eye is amazi gly doing better with each day. My rail will not be done. I will be bringing the red rail but with a fuel tank that won't rupture :m
And. Can am defender for camp ground travels
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Haven't got much done. Made a crude jig off my bearing carrier to find the pivot points.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5XBZx965/20231226-111757.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5XBZx965)
(https://i.postimg.cc/f35p9H7J/20231226-104622.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f35p9H7J)
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How is the eye doing? You able to weld stuff now?
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How is the eye doing? You able to weld stuff now?
They eye stabilized in aug and has remained so since. Vision wise that is. Still a slight distortion that will never go away but 20/25 is a 1000x better then 21/70 !!! So no more shots until there's a need. I am sure there will be more shots down the road though. Still far more light sensitive then in the past. Can't risk more damage so I wear a patch over the rt eye to spot weld. My welds look like a fist year rooky so enemy or Taylor will be getting a call to finish weld this. Don't want to risk my vision over that.
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Made the trans mounts out of 90" .25" thick channel. Got my alignment tool in place and figuring out mounting points. Looking like the bottom spread at the frame will be 70% of the length and top may only be 60%. On the bottom i am going to notch into the rear trans mounts to weld in 1" od 1/2" id tube for the heims. Then a gusseted tab on the other side. The fronts i plan on notching into the tube frame and then a tab on the front of that.
(https://i.postimg.cc/4nTp41qV/20231231-100336.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4nTp41qV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z0cvbzrz/20231231-100339.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z0cvbzrz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0MCjy7K0/20231231-100343.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0MCjy7K0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PP7xJXJ9/20231231-100406.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PP7xJXJ9)
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Some progress
(https://i.postimg.cc/JtxF8t03/20231231-164116.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JtxF8t03)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sQcT30jf/20231231-165005.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQcT30jf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jCMM993Z/20231231-165010.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCMM993Z)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rd2jxLzF/20231231-165016.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rd2jxLzF)
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LOOKING VERY GOOD.
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Thanks. Re learning to weld has proven challenging. The upper will be challenging.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Bjx4fy7P/20231231-200027.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Bjx4fy7P)
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Great to see some progress, nice work as always
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Great to see some progress, nice work as always
Thanks ! Its definitely not my best work and challenging. Not just the one eyed welding part either. The fuel cell will mount over the trans but its frame has to be removable and the cradle has to be wide enough that I can pull the trans with out having to pull the engine. Has to be strong enough as well as braced enough giving the number of small trees and bushes I have hooked and uprooted :m also the upper a arm tubes need to be high enough to clear the side shift shaft with room for the side shift arm. also, getting the pivot points as dead center to the cv pivot as possible. Im shooting for dead on but with the crude fixture ill settle for 1/8" off. Dead center would yield 0 axle plunge and with non plunge 930's thats optimal. They have about 1/16" play each so don't want to exceed that but I know one can. Not by much though. Have to get the drivers side done to make the arms then make a jig for those and match the other side.
Killed a step bit drilling 1" holes in the tube.
(https://i.postimg.cc/G89nkK0h/20240101-201358.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G89nkK0h)
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Ya know, the 2d would've been the simplest solution for a trans swap. Could've added 1" spacer to each flange and the cradle would've worked as the meagasand mid engine and 2d mid are roughly the same length.. My nose cone off the meagasan would swap over to the mendi . One can buy lazer cut weld on mounts for them as well and the 2d is cheaper then the hv24. The draw to the hv is the 3rd thrust load support bearing and bigger bearing on the main shaft, internal oil pump and far larger reverse gear.
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Bigger,better,harder,ultimately most satisfaction. Nothing worth doing is easy.
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I like the progress!
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I like the progress!
Thanks
Got a little done last weekend and hope to devote the coming weekend to it. Its a little farther along then that last pic.
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Didn't get as much done as I wanted to. I am using a better welding helmet now, it does help. The left side is tabbed out for upper and lower a arm. The right side lower is done and the rear upper is in. Need to place the front upper and then it wall fall into place. After that I need to work on shift cable mounts and then fuel tank mounts. onto a arms after that and I do have some pre bent pieces to use for mock up. Had to make a crude extension piece for the fixture to reach above and beyond an obstacle on the right side of the trans.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Lhx1VdBY/20240204-220522.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Lhx1VdBY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7fcJpgRq/20240204-220515.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7fcJpgRq)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rd20pqcb/20240204-220510.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rd20pqcb)
(https://i.postimg.cc/k6n2xw2v/20240204-220503.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k6n2xw2v)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BX8Xcjnk/20240204-220457.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BX8Xcjnk)
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Don't you just love a challenge? Looking good!
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Don't you just love a challenge? Looking good!
The older I get.....no :m
I had hoped to have gotten more done but ran out of time. The worst of it is almost complete though.
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Wasn't really happy with long tabs pitched out at that angle. There was no other choice. May be over thinking things as that is o ly but 1 or two upper a arm mounts. I take 1" and cut 45's on each end making tube gussets to spread the load. I am going to weld a tube from those tabs to the upper frame , at an angle, as well.
(https://i.postimg.cc/S2vM3Cyt/Screenshot-20240205-080350-Gallery.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2vM3Cyt)
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Had to make some special custom tabs that welded to the upright and cross tu e from the inside, and wanted a leg to reach out 3" onto the cross tube. Bent the ends in for a cross angle. Actually a compound bend to get it to wrap around the tu e a tad and then in over the cross tube. That was fun but that rear upper a arm tube is well supported. All the tabs are 1/4" thick steel. Like the trans mounts.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HjSz1vWj/Screenshot-20240205-080416-Gallery.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HjSz1vWj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/H8tfTwxd/Screenshot-20240205-080441-Gallery.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/H8tfTwxd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4HgNyQQ0/Screenshot-20240205-082035-Gallery.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4HgNyQQ0)
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MIG is soooooooooooo much easier than TIG. I still TIG almost everything on a buggy tho.
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MIG is soooooooooooo much easier than TIG. I still TIG almost everything on a buggy tho.
Correct. Im lucky to run a mig as it stands right now.
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Sell boys, my youngest grandson is officially with us.....Archer
(https://i.postimg.cc/0rf0g1CB/Resized-20240206-103358.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0rf0g1CB)
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cool!
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Got the other side fitted tonight
(https://i.postimg.cc/LJvd3jZL/20240208-212913.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LJvd3jZL)
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Unfortunately this is the only location the new tank can go. Not happy with it . If the frame was 1" longer the rear frame angle wouldn't be an issue. Have lft the rear of the tank 2" to clear the starter. Tank will have to be removed to change the starter. Will also have to add some hydra mat due to the angle. Not upset about the hydra mat, should make a great pre filter. Its either this or back to an aluminum round tank. Really need a new frame stretched 1' . This was built for a bike engine. This location will make wheelies a little easier when one considers 15 gals of fuel back there. The wing trunk will have to be raised or re made altogether as well. Radiator placement will have to be higher then before.also wanted to merge the intercooler with the radiator. Not an issue but was hoping to keep the heavy items low in the car. If a custom tank wasn't soooo expensive I would mount it behind the seat.
Thoughts???..
(https://i.postimg.cc/VdfQRHCg/20240211-150449.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VdfQRHCg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/f306LGGz/20240211-150434.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f306LGGz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fks6zgBs/20240211-150438.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fks6zgBs)
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The wing will cover a lot of the ugly look up imo but still :m
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Custom tank with PEX liner/bladder.
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Custom tank with PEX liner/bladder.
Racers choice and one other shop said $1k to $1500 to make a 1 off. Thats just not in the cards right now. So either the pex tank or the spun tank goes back on.
Honest opinion, I don't have feelings that can be hurt :nw :m
(https://i.postimg.cc/jDdBrwqr/20240211-153435.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDdBrwqr)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/TKxWHLbj/20240211-191320.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TKxWHLbj)
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Honest opinion is you send me the modified tank and I'll take it to the rotoformer for PEX. If you think you might be interested in that route I'll confirm they will still do it. IIRC it was 200 bux a few years ago, Probably more now but I'd bet a lot less than 1-1.5K You can use fill plate and sender over. Just need to make a cheap cover plate for the holes. Notch the tank so it fits over the starter.
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Honest opinion is you send me the modified tank and I'll take it to the rotoformer for PEX. If you think you might be interested in that route I'll confirm they will still do it. IIRC it was 200 bux a few years ago, Probably more now but I'd bet a lot less than 1-1.5K You can use fill plate and sender over. Just need to make a cheap cover plate for the holes. Notch the tank so it fits over the starter.
I would be interested. There is no modifying any current tank. I would have to make a cardboard templates that fits behind the seats, have one made out of aluminum and then have it rotomolded. No issues with a remote fill neck, i can buy the replacement tops with an fittings from racers choice. Not sure how that process works exactly. I asked the racers choice guy and he makes molds, then casts off the molds. The mold is the expensive part. I do not remember the other company but their web site states custom tanks. Just as expensive as racers choice. Been considering making a cardboard templates and having a custom ss tank made . I'd feel better with a pex lined tank but ss would be safer then aluminum. The current tank can be mounted as seen in the pics. Looks bad but it fits at that angle. The round tank can go back in until I can get a custom tank made too. Having one made is my only option. I am tolerating welding to finish this project and barely. Using a new better helmet that does help too! Diff color screen and that made a difference. After what I welded sun my eye was dry and a small pull on it.
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What brand/ type of welding helmet did you get?
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What brand/ type of welding helmet did you get?
Don't laugh :m
I bought it 5 or 6 years ago. My other one was sprayed with some slag and it hit the inside and danced on the inner lens. I cleaned it up and keep the shields replaced. The old on has 3 settings, a titanium bluish purplish color lens when off, a green hue when on and while welding. Reminds me of the green color in glass coated with a solar deflecting. For that reason i kept it at #10 darkness which is to bright for most people. i simply cannot see what im welding at any darker setting. Any Darker setting and i had to get so close to what i was welding it killed outer cover quick. It was a Miller auto darkening I bought apprx 15 to 18 years ago. When I purchased the new millmatic welder, I got a $100 voucher. They had new Miller helmets with a slightly larger view screens, about an inch taller and wider. 4 corner sensors and 4 settings. Didnt like the fact they use large dia watch like batteries either. The color is far better for myself, so much I can run it at #12 on darkness and still see well. There is a 3rd strap across the head with its own adjustment, more comfortable and the helmet itself covers a tad more of my bald head down lower under the chin. I don't have any pics nor do I know the brand, but I can look tonight.
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Different graphics but same helmet. Head gear and digital lens. They went up a tad in 5 years :m
https://www.millerwelds.com/safety/helmets/digital-elite-series-welding-helmets-m00471#!/?product-options-title=digital-elite-raptor-clearlight-2-0-289768
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=29&v=uMFdXlY2NGI&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.millerwelds.com%2F&embeds_referring_origin=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.millerwelds.com&source_ve_path=Mjg2NjY&feature=emb_logo
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=K4CS5FaU4gc&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.millerwelds.com%2F&embeds_referring_origin=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.millerwelds.com&source_ve_path=Mjg2NjY&feature=emb_logo
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I have a speedglas auto dark. Obsolete now but has only needed new button batteries 1 time in 15+years. I keep good/clean inner and outer lenses . Very compact and close fitting to the head for excellent tight space use. Save-phase also makes one that was almost identical to our save-phace masks. Very close fitting.
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I have a speedglas auto dark. Obsolete now but has only needed new button batteries 1 time in 15+years. I keep good/clean inner and outer lenses . Very compact and close fitting to the head for excellent tight space use. Save-phase also makes one that was almost identical to our save-phace masks. Very close fitting.
Post a link up to the one you use. Didnt know save place made them.
My old helmet, it didn't clear that quick once the weld had stopped. This one has an adjustment for just that. The old one , I would have to lift my helmet to see what kind of bead I just put down and to see what I was starting. This new helmet is so clear I do t have to lift my helmet for either reason.
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This is the one I have. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204359684872?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1yL74Y3goSV25d-tfX8qBEg90&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=204359684872&targetid=1587268787897&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9026906&poi=&campaignid=19894961968&mkgroupid=148855406073&rlsatarget=pla-1587268787897&abcId=9307911&merchantid=764139580&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzPLom7GnhAMVjjLUAR1iWQY9EAQYHiABEgK8_PD_BwEI've had it for probably 30 years or more now.It is not made anymore. It charges the battery while welding. Speedglass make similar now.
Save phace has me concerned how good they are. https://www.ebay.com/b/Save-Phace-Welding-Helmets/92090/bn_77117241 I did email them to check on their business status. They quit making the buggy masks a while back but it seems they might be back?
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[
Not sure how that process works exactly. I asked the racers choice guy and he makes molds, then casts off the molds. The mold is the expensive part. I do not remember the other company but their web site states custom tanks. Just as expensive as racers choice. Been considering making a cardboard templates and having a custom ss tank made . I'd feel better with a pex lined tank but ss would be safer then aluminum. The current tank can be mounted as seen in the pics. Looks bad but it fits at that angle. The round tank can go back in until I can get a custom tank made too. Having one made is my only option. I am tolerating welding to finish this project and barely. Using a new better helmet that does help too! Diff color screen and that made a difference. After what I welded sun my eye was dry and a small pull on it.
Your tank is the mold the way I have it done. (It also assures a perfect fit.)That is why you would need to send the tank to me before paint and no to powdercoat. All fab work would need to be completed first as well.
[/quote]
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This is the one I have. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204359684872?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1yL74Y3goSV25d-tfX8qBEg90&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=204359684872&targetid=1587268787897&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9026906&poi=&campaignid=19894961968&mkgroupid=148855406073&rlsatarget=pla-1587268787897&abcId=9307911&merchantid=764139580&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzPLom7GnhAMVjjLUAR1iWQY9EAQYHiABEgK8_PD_BwEI've had it for probably 30 years or more now.It is not made anymore. It charges the battery while welding. Speedglass make similar now.
Save phace has me concerned how good they are. https://www.ebay.com/b/Save-Phace-Welding-Helmets/92090/bn_77117241 I did email them to check on their business status. They quit making the buggy masks a while back but it seems they might be back?
Wasn't impressed with save place lenses or their customer service. I do like the masks though. I did call yesterday and left a message asking about replacement lenses as their website said they were selling them again. I will have to see if I can fit tear offs over them somehow.
I like that helmet you use. That was ahead of its time and I see why you like it. I really like me new one for sure. Mine is 5 or 6 years old now but new out of the box :m. My helmets model # has been superceded of course. I would really be interested in the new 3.0 version which is probably 3 steps above mine now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/JyLF8Q2z/20240212-172824.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JyLF8Q2z)
Informative video.
https://youtu.be/b7qE53MszVU?si=KDtRJOx-VgcYznFN
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[
Not sure how that process works exactly. I asked the racers choice guy and he makes molds, then casts off the molds. The mold is the expensive part. I do not remember the other company but their web site states custom tanks. Just as expensive as racers choice. Been considering making a cardboard templates and having a custom ss tank made . I'd feel better with a pex lined tank but ss would be safer then aluminum. The current tank can be mounted as seen in the pics. Looks bad but it fits at that angle. The round tank can go back in until I can get a custom tank made too. Having one made is my only option. I am tolerating welding to finish this project and barely. Using a new better helmet that does help too! Diff color screen and that made a difference. After what I welded sun my eye was dry and a small pull on it.
Your tank is the mold the way I have it done. (It also assures a perfect fit.)That is why you would need to send the tank to me before paint and no to powdercoat. All fab work would need to be completed first as well.
[/quote]
So if this is a real possibility , I will have a tank made. I assume aluminum would be fine since the bladder will be the real tank?? Could have it made out of 14g 3003 aluminum.
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[
Not sure how that process works exactly. I asked the racers choice guy and he makes molds, then casts off the molds. The mold is the expensive part. I do not remember the other company but their web site states custom tanks. Just as expensive as racers choice. Been considering making a cardboard templates and having a custom ss tank made . I'd feel better with a pex lined tank but ss would be safer then aluminum. The current tank can be mounted as seen in the pics. Looks bad but it fits at that angle. The round tank can go back in until I can get a custom tank made too. Having one made is my only option. I am tolerating welding to finish this project and barely. Using a new better helmet that does help too! Diff color screen and that made a difference. After what I welded sun my eye was dry and a small pull on it.
Your tank is the mold the way I have it done. (It also assures a perfect fit.)That is why you would need to send the tank to me before paint and no to powdercoat. All fab work would need to be completed first as well.
So if this is a real possibility , I will have a tank made. I assume aluminum would be fine since the bladder will be the real tank?? Could have it made out of 14g 3003 aluminum.
[/quote]
There are a couple considerations. First and foremost the welded seams need to be "professionally" done with TIG. What I mean by that is the welder must be capable of having smooth seams on the inside,no dingle berry shit.I do not recommend a 1 piece tank like mine because of that possibility. I won't do a 1 piece again. It is best to make the tank with a removeable lid so it can be welded inside and out.
If using fill plate with pickup and return fittings integrated,do not do a cutout for it at this time. You will do that after rotomolding. If using a separate fuel level sender do a cut out for it and make a plate for plugging the hole after the PEX powder is added.
3003 is perfect material . I use .090 3003 h13 You will to make a pair of hold down straps that can be bolted down to the roto table that won't allow the tank to slip.
The rotomold process is pretty simple. You will need to calculate the surface area of the tank and they will calculate the volume of PEX granules to give the desired approximate thickness . They fill the tank,cap the fill port,bolt it to the roto table. Then it is off to the oven where the roto table turns 360 degrees and rotates in another axis 360 degrees. The PEX granules melt and crosslink into a consistent thickness in the tank covering all areas. The heat is removed ,tank continues rotating until the pex has hardened into a very tough bladder fitting your tank perfectly.
Crosslinked polyethylene (PEX) is much tougher than regular polyethylene and cannot be repaired by heat welding. Once melted and brought up to temperature the cross linking occurs and it will not melt again and is much more chemical resistant the regular polyethylene.
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If you want I'll make sure he will still do it. I highly recommend it.Safety first.
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If you want I'll make sure he will still do it. I highly recommend it.Safety first.
I do want to but I don't know how soon it will happen. I need to get farther along before I know for sure. I was looking at it and thinking about diff locations based on your description. I am not opposed to having a ss tank made either , just in case it cannot be done. Atleast that would be resistant to e85 and could could go thicker walls with an inside and out weld. The 2nd location would be behind the drivers seat, standing upright where my old electronics box went. Probably would only hold 12 gals rough guesstimate but would get it out of the back and clean up that whole back end. If it was made in a box pan break they could bend the sides off the bottom so there were only upright sides welded and the top. Way easier to make mounts there too. I would pre fer the pex or cross link lined but a 14g or 12g ss wall tank would be stronger then the speedway tank that split. !! That tank wall was sooooo thin !
I only say wait to ask because I am not sure when I can get a local fab shop to build what I design. Dont want anyone upset if this takes 2 months to 8 months.
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Just let me know if you decide to do it. I asked about a year ago if he would still do it and at that time he would. The guy is head of production and does it "out the back door". BTW,ethanol is not corrosive to aluminum like methanol. Proper care and storage of ethanol is the key to never having issues with ethanol.
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Just let me know if you decide to do it. I asked about a year ago if he would still do it and at that time he would. The guy is head of production and does it "out the back door". BTW,ethanol is not corrosive to aluminum like methanol. Proper care and storage of ethanol is the key to never having issues with ethanol.
I want to, just not sure when. I'll take some measurements this weekend as there is one other spot one could fit. Maybe 10 gal tank in that spot. Was hoping for a larger tank but in that spot it would clean up a whole lot of real-estate over the trans and that would Llow me to move the radiator farther back and down plus a 2hp starter. The tank mounted behind the drivers seat from the top frame to the bottom would get the weight down lower as I had envisioned.
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A low center of gravity rules. Now ,lower the cars stance 4-6". ;) ;) ;) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D :m
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Just sayin' https://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?/forums/topic/8674-funco-sandrail-goes-up-in-flames/#comments
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Haven't been on that site in so long they deleted my acct. Cannot view it w/o logging in either. In the process of trying acct recovery now.
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I cannot get the folks at Glamis to send me the email so I can log in. No idea who is asleep at the wheel over there.
Got quite a bit done on the rail last weekend and was in the process of making mock up rear a arms when I realized I had forgot to account for greater plates :m :nw so I cut the tack welds and added a few spacer pieces. I did not take any pics other then The removable cross bar mounts for the upper a arm mount.
I decided I need to clean all the cvs and actually bolt the axles in place. I just need the mock up then ill make a fixture and at that point I can make what ever design I want. I was planning on using the adjustable heims on the bottoms. I used them on the back sides on the last build. I keep bouncing back and fourth about if they will be strong enough. If I use both on the bottom it will make alignments a breeze. 3/4" chromolly solid shaft left and rt hand thread and then a left and rt hand heim joint.......outside a female heim of course. On the old design had one of those on the bottom rear and front rear was a single him. That still offset the weak point with the tube over lapping the center of the tie rod area so to speak. I didn't take pics as I had set my phone down in the utv while I was splitting fire wood and then gave up trying to find it until late
(https://i.postimg.cc/G9W3YhZ0/20240218-103208.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9W3YhZ0)
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The rear a arms, rear heim attachment points. My earlier post is referring to putting both on the bottom a arm rather then rear of upper and lower. as I am going to a single pivot on top. I can go double pivot on the upper and back to this design ....just thought a single upper would be cleaner.
(https://i.postimg.cc/B8GTKcsr/20230507-144103.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/B8GTKcsr)
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The rear a arms, rear heim attachment points. My earlier post is referring to putting both on the bottom a arm rather then rear of upper and lower. as I am going to a single pivot on top. I can go double pivot on the upper and back to this design ....just thought a single upper would be cleaner.
(https://i.postimg.cc/B8GTKcsr/20230507-144103.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/B8GTKcsr)
I'm not a big fan of those adjusters. They make life a breeze as you say but I just don't like it on a lower arm. Almost all a arm suspensions use solid lower arms with the upper adjustable for camber/caster. The uppers take far less punishment and due to that,IMO,they are where adjustments should be made. Yes, it does require pretty accurate fabbing of the lower solid arm. If I do another car(no,no plan to do so) I will not use heims for the pivots on lower arms. It will be delrin bushed pivots like the busa buggy.
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I mentioned this because I have been questioning runnng both on the bottom arm. They worked well on the last build and I am not light weight. That was one on bottom and top of a 4 point mount. I assumed with that design that the solid fronts overlapping the mini tie rod rears would be offset enough to add some strength. The shock mounted to the front side of the. A arm too. So either I do that again or I go single heim only.
Btw, I was finally contacted by a mod ad gd.com. they had to personally reset my acct. Not sure why, don't care, but did read that post. That post is also on sand asylum on fb. The owner/drivers hasn't stated exactly what cause the fire but 2 friends have stated his fuel tank was just a welded aluminum tank, no bladder.
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The vast majority are fabbed aluminum tanks. There has been waaayyyyyy toooooo many people burned or killed having fun. I don't plan on being one of them. Anything CAN happen but I have taken care to hopefully avoid it. Nothing other than PEX bladders or true fuel cell bladders for me. It's just not worth the risk,IMO. After what happened to your "fuel cell" last time I shudder to think how lucky you were. I'll stop pestering you about it now ,it's your skin.
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The vast majority are fabbed aluminum tanks. There has been waaayyyyyy toooooo many people burned or killed having fun. I don't plan on being one of them. Anything CAN happen but I have taken care to hopefully avoid it. Nothing other than PEX bladders or true fuel cell bladders for me. It's just not worth the risk,IMO. After what happened to your "fuel cell" last time I shudder to think how lucky you were. I'll stop pestering you about it now ,it's your skin.
Not once but twice in 2 days! And the pos cable was loose an arcing!! Guardian angel comes to mind!! Mine will be a lined tank, no doubts there, just which direction is in the air.
So only had a couple hrs to re work the rear a arm design. Do no tie rods and shallowness beds possible. The upper at wheel will be 7/8", not 3/4" as pictured.
Remember, I cut my olds ones up for mock up pieces so no critiquing the roughness :m
(https://i.postimg.cc/2qR4FVY8/20240222-204245.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2qR4FVY8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/v4WvKW36/20240222-204237.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4WvKW36)
(https://i.postimg.cc/D4JrPsS0/20240222-204222.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D4JrPsS0)
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Bent all the tubing up for the a arms last night. I used 1.5" od, 1" id 1020 dom, for the lower fronts, because the shocks will be mounted to those tubes. Considered making the entire lower a arm out of .25" wall but damn, its not fun to bend and heavy. I used 1.25" .120 wall 1020 dom for the back side and upper. The upper in the pics is the actual upper and the lower is just to make the jig fixture off of. Ill be 3/4" chromolly heims on all except upper wheel bearing carrier side.......thats 7/8" chromolly heim.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9wt4s4xY/20240304-185724.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9wt4s4xY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bGcZYHK9/20240304-185713.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bGcZYHK9)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3yFx8Mj3/20240304-185708.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3yFx8Mj3)
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I like :nw
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I like :nw
Thanks
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I went round and round on the lower arms shape for a cosmetic look along with functionality. Really wanted to use the mini tie rods for easy adjustment but just had this nagging voice In the back of my head saying it will bend.
Not happy, cosmetically, with the upper but more then functional. Had to be slightly wider then i wanted to catch that specific section of frame in the rear. Couldn't move the front back to to clearance of the trans side cover bolts and the ability to remove the trans. The lower, with some bracing , checks both boxes.
Width to length ration on rear a arms......lowers 78% and uppers 70%.
For those that do not know, I run 28" long axles and non plunge 930 cv's. When I ran the busa engine, these same cvs were limited to 35* of downward angle for close to 6 years. Then, the conversion to the turbo 2.3 and megasand, limited to 30* downward angle. I did so because I wanted to stretch the wheel base a touch to 117". Was hoping for 120" but close enough. In doing so the axle had to run at a slight swept back angle. So technically that cv was again operating close to 35* at full droop. Cvs maintain tq specs at higher angle but run hotter. Heat kills cvs where u joints are weaker at higher angles but run cooler.
So , I corrected that with this iteration. The axle is now straight out and I will prob limit the cv to 30* down angle. I suppose its time to retire them for new as well and rcv is slooooooow to return information or ship product. Preliminary measurement shows ill be 113" wheel base with axles straight out and looking like 89 to 90" track width rear.
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and for the record, as enemy knows well........ after all the years running those cv's at those angles, i have only gotten one of them a touch warm . rofl
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I like :nw
Thanks
Only thing I would have done differently would have been to carry the rear upper tune onto the threaded bung. Hindsight syndrome......... :m
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I went round and round on the lower arms shape for a cosmetic look along with functionality. Really wanted to use the mini tie rods for easy adjustment but just had this nagging voice In the back of my head saying it will bend. As did I.
Not happy, cosmetically, with the upper but more then functional. Had to be slightly wider then i wanted to catch that specific section of frame in the rear. Couldn't move the front back to to clearance of the trans side cover bolts and the ability to remove the trans. The lower, with some bracing , checks both boxes. The lower carries most of the loads.
Width to length ration on rear a arms......lowers 78% and uppers 70%.
For those that do not know, I run 28" long axles and non plunge 930 cv's. When I ran the busa engine, these same cvs were limited to 35* of downward angle for close to 6 years. Then, the conversion to the turbo 2.3 and megasand, limited to 30* downward angle. I did so because I wanted to stretch the wheel base a touch to 117". Was hoping for 120" but close enough. In doing so the axle had to run at a slight swept back angle. So technically that cv was again operating close to 35* at full droop. Cvs maintain tq specs at higher angle but run hotter. Heat kills cvs where u joints are weaker at higher angles but run cooler.
So , I corrected that with this iteration. The axle is now straight out and I will prob limit the cv to 30* down angle. I suppose its time to retire them for new as well and rcv is slooooooow to return information or ship product. Preliminary measurement shows ill be 113" wheel base with axles straight out and looking like 89 to 90" track width rear.
I can look,I think I have 3 new spares if it will help. You can replace when we go to LS.No hurry.
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and for the record, as enemy knows well........ after all the years running those cv's at those angles, i have only gotten one of them a touch warm . rofl
My non plunge 930 ran quite cool also. I did kill one though I believe I got the cage in backwards. When I took it apart it was a bit hard to tell for sure. ;D
On a side note I have slightly hurt 2 of the 934 non plunge cv's after about 500 miles on big buggy.
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I went round and round on the lower arms shape for a cosmetic look along with functionality. Really wanted to use the mini tie rods for easy adjustment but just had this nagging voice In the back of my head saying it will bend. As did I.
Not happy, cosmetically, with the upper but more then functional. Had to be slightly wider then i wanted to catch that specific section of frame in the rear. Couldn't move the front back to to clearance of the trans side cover bolts and the ability to remove the trans. The lower, with some bracing , checks both boxes. The lower carries most of the loads.
Width to length ration on rear a arms......lowers 78% and uppers 70%.
For those that do not know, I run 28" long axles and non plunge 930 cv's. When I ran the busa engine, these same cvs were limited to 35* of downward angle for close to 6 years. Then, the conversion to the turbo 2.3 and megasand, limited to 30* downward angle. I did so because I wanted to stretch the wheel base a touch to 117". Was hoping for 120" but close enough. In doing so the axle had to run at a slight swept back angle. So technically that cv was again operating close to 35* at full droop. Cvs maintain tq specs at higher angle but run hotter. Heat kills cvs where u joints are weaker at higher angles but run cooler.
So , I corrected that with this iteration. The axle is now straight out and I will prob limit the cv to 30* down angle. I suppose its time to retire them for new as well and rcv is slooooooow to return information or ship product. Preliminary measurement shows ill be 113" wheel base with axles straight out and looking like 89 to 90" track width rear.
I can look,I think I have 3 new spares if it will help. You can replace when we go to LS.No hurry.
Thanks for the offer on the cv's. I have 2 new ones for now and will order 2 more. They offer a rebuild kit for the non plunge 934 but not the 930. I called and asked why, guy said he would ask the tech as he didn't see why they couldn't offer a rebuild kit for the 930 as well. Said he would call me back that day......that was 2 weeks ago!
As far as carrying the upper rear out onto the weld bung......that was my intention, but someone didn't cut the frame side to length first! :nw. So what you see is what happened. To be error on the side of caution, I drilled a 3/8" hole though the side of the tube before inserting the bung. Plug welded the bung in and then welded the end. I do agree with overlapping the two though.
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and for the record, as enemy knows well........ after all the years running those cv's at those angles, i have only gotten one of them a touch warm . rofl
My non plunge 930 ran quite cool also. I did kill one though I believe I got the cage in backwards. When I took it apart it was a bit hard to tell for sure. ;D
On a side note I have slightly hurt 2 of the 934 non plunge cv's after about 500 miles on big buggy.
I have to give the cv's credit. I have scorched one 4 or 5 times and I mean to the point that steam was coming out of the cv boot through the tear. That cv boot would balloon up then rip a seam. Always the same right hand trans side. Replaced that cv thinking itself was the issue and no change with the new one. The others have worn pretty good for going on 8 or 9 years.
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So every weekend I plan to spend the whole weekend on the buggy, something decided to change my plans for me. I have been able to spend the last 3 nights on it. I finished the rear a arm fixture and built both uppers plus 1 lower as of last night. My goal tonight is to build the last lower and begin hanging them. I have technicaly 2 possibilities for shock placement but imho only 1 option due to exh, fuel tank, radiator and intercooler placement. The curve of the rear of the frame is a hinderence. Its no issue with air shocks but 2.5 coil overs are a diff story and I need a location that I have to room to step up to 3.0 internal bypass c/o 's in the future.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vD2RnNxB/20240319-213637.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vD2RnNxB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XrMzcSjV/20240319-213630.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XrMzcSjV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YGg4FWb2/20240317-211937.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YGg4FWb2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/n9pLQwXT/20240317-211916.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/n9pLQwXT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/F71Yb8Pn/20240317-211807.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F71Yb8Pn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tYt9x5bm/20240317-211551.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tYt9x5bm)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/PpbZtPmQ/20240320-212742.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PpbZtPmQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/K1dgBnf5/20240320-212900.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K1dgBnf5)
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Didn't take any pics but all a arms are built and fully welded. Shocks mounts were next on the list but, started looking closely at the shifting system . Mounting the the rear shocks is a half a day task, no big deal. The shift system is proving to be challenging. This hv24 trans is so different , to all the other builds that there are simply no off the shelf parts to aid in installing, not in a mid engine configuration anyway. I believe the trans to be superior to the mendi 2d but not sure by how much. If not by much then not worth it, especially now thats its $5k more and that doesn't make any sense either.
Running push pull cables directly to the shift shafts is a no go. It would be the cleanest and simplest way but not possible.. I know Sean at weddle discourages the use of bell crank like systems on the shifters but I have no choice. My frame simply isn't wide enough to accommodate a large enough dia 90* turn on the cable. The forward shift shaft will also need an extension made due to frame dimension constraints. Spent half a day with 3 diff length cable and 2 diff brands, looking for better ways to connect. Going to have to stop at speedway tonight for parts.
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It's always something isn't it? I dropped the engine in buggy and was bolting up the torque converter to flexplate studs. Lo and behold the second one just pulled out . Wasn't even any torque involved. Well eff me. WTF was I to do? I'll start a thread. :m
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It's always something isn't it? I dropped the engine in buggy and was bolting up the torque converter to flexplate studs. Lo and behold the second one just pulled out . Wasn't even any torque involved. Well eff me. WTF was I to do? I'll start a thread. :m
It is always something! I am going in today for another round of injections into my eye ball again. Been lucky that I've gone 3 months with out them. So sat will be the soonest I can get back on it and I will have to be extra extra careful. I stopped at speedway and bought $200 worth of .25" heims, male/ female and studded. All thread hardened .25"/28tpi rod , and 2 diff style bell cranks. Sat down last night and I believe I have a game plan. The front cable i know for sure but 2 options on the rear. Going to put some hydra mat in the tank I have and use it until I have more time to make patterns for where I want to put it. Since all my electronics are in the wing I am just going to mount it higher over the tank and make diff side panels just to get this rail back on the sand.
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probably going to leave the front fox airs on for the next trip too. we will see as i don't have a camper to repair and prep for the trip anymore!!
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Got another round of shots in my eye tues. Out for a few days but I'm very hopeful ill get back to it sat. My eye didn't bruise with the last shot but it has half way of what it looked like back in Oct. It is what it is I suppose. Looks like I GET TO pay the doc to stab me in the eye ,twice, every 9 weeks for the rest of this year. Since that is how it has gone thus far he decided it was just best to schedule as such.
I have a lot to get done on the rail but honestly, at this point, what I wanted to take my time sorting out isn't going to happen. This rail needs to make the trip so ill do what I can. My goal for this weekend ( if my eye allows ) is to have the shocks mounted, frame work done, new rci tank mounted, shifter cables mounted so I can order new cables, and if possible, radiator and intercooler. Need to drop the motor back in to weld in new mounts but thats only 4 tabs.
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Took longer then it should've but I got the mid engine shift assembly built. Re built and rebuilt again :m :nw I can comfortably speed shot 2nd to 3rd in the garage :m getting the height just right on the levers was trial and error as the leverage factor becomes a feel preference. Going to try and get the tank and shocks mounted today and possibly the radiator. I got the tanks and shock placement mapped out yesterday.
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I didn't get as much as I had hoped to over the weekend. I thought I got the majority mapped out and did but now the shifter system has to come out. So I've been running the pbs gen 1 shifter system this whole time. When I bought this trans Sean said that was a great shifter to adapt to this trans. I don't think he knows the differences between gen 1 and gen 2 design. I know I didn't until last night either.
A thanks to BrianN for the pbs system way back when.
So I put 4.5 hrs into making brackets, modifying tabs, re routing cables for the straightest lines and least number of bell cranks or adaptors. I noticed reverse wasn't as shown in the diagram and thought, this is clearly the wrong diagram. The hv1, hv2 and hv25 have a diff shift pattern. The hv5 because its a 5 speed but hv1 and hv24 are diff. I thought they prob sent me the hv1 by mistake so I proceeded on that assumption. Its my fault but now I get to cut it out and start over. I didn't take pics of anything but the gen 2 shifter is reversed when compared to the gen1. Reversed as in it throws the cables the opposite direction and turns out that what I need. So that will work perfectly but, physically the shifter body needs a 2" lift to get the handle back to the height its at now and the shifter assy is more forward sitting in relation to the mount which changes the length of the cables. Thank goodness I didn't order new cables sun evening. I spent an hr measuring them to know which lengths to order. So after a few discussions with a sales person and then Ron the owner, the diagram has 1st thru 4th correct but rev is clockwise rather then counter clockwise. Which means one has to push into the detent to shift 1st second and from N position, 3rd 4th are straight up and down. Reverse will be to the right, into the detent and up.
I will have to fab a rev lock out so one cannot accidentally hit reverse speed shifting to 3rd.
So currently, reverse is into the detent left and down, what I thought was 1st 2nd is from N straight up and down and 3rd 4th is into the detent to the right up and down. Turns out 1st is to the rt and down, 2nd is rt and up, 4th is straight up and 3rd is straight down from the resting N position. I'm not sure I can relearn that pattern enough to leave it. Now, it would make a great theft deternet :m
I don't have the hv1 shift direction diagram. Its online. Here is hv24 andc25
(https://i.postimg.cc/KRxGHRV3/Screenshot-20240401-121002-Duck-Duck-Go.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KRxGHRV3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DJx9pwbL/Screenshot-20240331-194915-Photos.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DJx9pwbL)
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Oh,the joys of a mid engine. Rear engine is a piece of cake. Your issues are why I went with a sequential.
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Oh,the joys of a mid engine. Rear engine is a piece of cake. Your issues are why I went with a sequential.
Beginning to regret not going sequential. Rear engine shifter systems are available at weddle. 2 years ago Sean said they were working on a mid engine system. Ron weddle stayed that again yesterday ;D :nw
I know its a good trans, the lack of info and accessories support as in bolt on weldable flanges, shifter systems or even the shaft couplers to use as a base. This trans is completely foreign to all of the common trans .
Yes mid engine is always a struggle or more of a struggle but I pre fer it. When one finds they just wasted 4.5 hrs and GET TO cut it all out and start over....really knocks the wond out of ones sails. :m its my own fault, should've stopped when I saw the discrepancy and verified.
On another note, I tried every configuration, this recipe tank will not fit. My round one is going back in until I have time to design a custom tank. I spent 4 hrs, making a base mount, straps etc etc. Onto of frame constraints, the an 8 fitting on top of the trans for an external oil cooler cannot be capped. It has to be routed back into the trans. There is a secondary pair of an 8 ports for an external oil cooler. I thought one could cap the top pair. It is what it is, ill get it usable for now and might even build a new frame.
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Frustration setting in any?
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kick 5: beathorse.gif~c200 Drowning bs1 :m LMAO
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Soooooo.all is normal?
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I'd ask if you are pulling your hair out but................well you know. :m
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I'd ask if you are pulling your hair out but................well you know. :m
LMAO ya I still have my last 3 hairs. Going to start cutting the old shifter out tonight.
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I bought a spare converter seal from Fortin about 6 years ago. While converter is out I thought I should put the new one in and save the old one for just in case. I took the seal out of the box and the damn thing was used !!!!!! I called Fortin to get a new one and a spare since the seal is custom made just for the Fortin setup. Just for grins and giggles I mentioned the "new" seal being obviously used that I had received years ago. I was just laughing and wasn't expecting it be made good. WAY too much time has passed. The guy said he thought they would do a bit of price adjusting. We'll see when the invoice gets here. The damn things are $69 each. Hell ,if they only pay the freight I'd be happy. Not going to be mad either way. I should have opened the box way back.
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Thats sucks. I am guilty of not opening packages to inspect myself. Bit me a time or two and definitely sucks. Glad they were even willing to do anything but seems like a good company.
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Here are pics of gen 1 and gen 2 pbs mid engine shifter. Chrome one is gen 2. Black one i just cut out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5jTPhHsV/20240402-181651.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5jTPhHsV)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/y3ZT1PLz/20240402-181613.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/y3ZT1PLz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hQT9WGGD/20240402-181618.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hQT9WGGD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SXRCQdKt/20240402-181622.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SXRCQdKt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/WFKQY5DR/20240402-181648.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WFKQY5DR)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/1g7T4vrg/20240402-181655.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1g7T4vrg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tZLMN7fp/20240402-181715.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZLMN7fp)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dDyXtmk1/20240402-181718.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dDyXtmk1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jDskXp8w/20240402-181720.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDskXp8w)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CZ2Pwzwk/20240402-181723.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZ2Pwzwk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bSx30gk9/20240402-181726.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bSx30gk9)
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Knocked off 10%. Better than nothing especially since I expected nothing. :nw
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(https://i.postimg.cc/1g7T4vrg/20240402-181655.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1g7T4vrg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tZLMN7fp/20240402-181715.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZLMN7fp)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dDyXtmk1/20240402-181718.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dDyXtmk1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jDskXp8w/20240402-181720.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDskXp8w)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CZ2Pwzwk/20240402-181723.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZ2Pwzwk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bSx30gk9/20240402-181726.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bSx30gk9)
Holy Shit! Glad you are dealing with that. Reminds me of the PITA the busa buggy 091 shifter was. Fortunately the busa sequential was primary shifted. 091 was mostly for reverse and first/second for loading/crawling.
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The 091 is nice as in its a single shift shaft. The hv24 has 2 shift shafts as seen in the diagrams above. Both have to be used for mid engine.
I got it shifting correctly last night. Tacked new shifter in and reversed cable throw. Need to dial in ran lengths to shorten throw and ease of effort on shifter now. Would be far cleaner with a bell crank but then thats another point of Play and or failure. Tried a couple different routes. The rear cable mount is jerry rigged clamped in place. I am tired of cutting tack welds loose.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jwG0zMtD/20240402-224553.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jwG0zMtD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2q6PMs5q/20240402-224602.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2q6PMs5q)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gxc5LC8M/20240402-224615.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gxc5LC8M)
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The 091 is nice as in its a single shift shaft. The hv24 has 2 shift shafts as seen in the diagrams above. Both have to be used for mid engine.
I got it shifting correctly last night. Tacked new shifter in and reversed cable throw. Need to dial in ran lengths to shorten throw and ease of effort on shifter now. Would be far cleaner with a bell crank but then thats another point of Play and or failure. Tried a couple different routes. The rear cable mount is jerry rigged clamped in place. I am tired of cutting tack welds loose.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jwG0zMtD/20240402-224553.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jwG0zMtD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2q6PMs5q/20240402-224602.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2q6PMs5q)
That looks like a real pain, I do not understand the two shift shafts. Glad you are making progress. Makes my engine rebuild look simple!
(https://i.postimg.cc/gxc5LC8M/20240402-224615.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gxc5LC8M)
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Deep Busch, I asked above but never heard.......what happened to your motor to nessitate a full rebuild?
Technically, one could use one shaft to do both. They instruct not too and I agree, it does shift smoother using 2 shafts. According to weddle, these hv24 and 25,'s were designed around the baja 500 racers. Most generally the 250 too 300 hp class. When I first heard that. I thought hmmmm why rest on such low power units if your going to rate it at 600 hp input. Sean said that Baja runs wot the vast majority of the 500 miles. Sand rails make short bursts but no real sustained pulls like the desert floor of Baja 500. They split the shift shafts to end missed shifts in the race class's. Thatscwhat I was told, I'm going to choose to belive it until it pisses me off then I won't LMAO
Mid engine is a tiny tiny part of the market as they are difficult to build.
The fun part will be designing and building a rev lock out. It right and up. I can see hitting rev speed shifting 3rd. !!
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I was wanting to go up to 400 hp on the engine, but I did not have a closed deck or good crank. I did a compression test before I tore it down and all were within 2 lbs of each other, but when I did a leak down test, the intake valves on #3 were whistling pretty good. Had them rebuilt and they broke a bolt off in the head and didn't tell me (they might have broke it on the final assy and didn't know?). Got the bolt out but it was a hard bolt to find. Special stepped shoulder bolt to align the cam bearing cap. The new turbo won't fit, the intake manifold wouldn't fit, the water crossover hit a vent tube, etc. Just the joys of new build/ But I am powering thru it. I did get to use my new bridgeport to ream out the heads for larger 1/2" head studs.
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I was wanting to go up to 400 hp on the engine, but I did not have a closed deck or good crank. I did a compression test before I tore it down and all were within 2 lbs of each other, but when I did a leak down test, the intake valves on #3 were whistling pretty good. Had them rebuilt and they broke a bolt off in the head and didn't tell me (they might have broke it on the final assy and didn't know?). Got the bolt out but it was a hard bolt to find. Special stepped shoulder bolt to align the cam bearing cap. The new turbo won't fit, the intake manifold wouldn't fit, the water crossover hit a vent tube, etc. Just the joys of new build/ But I am powering thru it. I did get to use my new bridgeport to ream out the heads for larger 1/2" head studs.
I know yours has run great for some time. Best guess where it was 9n hp before rebuild? I know 400 chp is the goal just wondering what the step up might be?
What did the builder say about breaking the bolt OFF?
that all sucksvexcept playing with the Bridgeport!
BrianN enjoys rebuilding the suby engines ..... just ask him ;) ;D
Your def having a challenging time like I have been.
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I know yours has run great for some time. Best guess where it was 9n hp before rebuild? I know 400 chp is the goal just wondering what the step up might be?
What did the builder say about breaking the bolt OFF?
that all sucksvexcept playing with the Bridgeport!
BrianN enjoys rebuilding the suby engines ..... just ask him ;) ;D
Your def having a challenging time like I have been.
Outfront said my old engine S/B 320hp. Going from 10lbs to 15lbs boost, I have heard that getting into the teens on boost will really wake up a subi. I ran the setup for 12 years. I wanted to go up to 17 or 18lbs (just to have bragging rights over Mike LMAO) but John wanted me to have a boost controller if I was going over 15lbs, I didn't want to mess with one.
I didn't even talk to the builder, I already had the heads installed before I realized the bolt was broke. The bolt broke off about 3/8" down into the hole, so I made a bushing on the lathe to fit the hole then used a left handed drill bit. My wife said "They make drill bits for left handed people?" LMAO I was nice in my reply.
I am only going to run 10lbs boost this next trip as I don't have time to get it on a dyno. But it will be cool to see the difference in the newer style turbo and how it spools up/
I bought the bridgeport from Jerry and added a DRO to it. Still need to add the 3rd axis, just haven't had time.
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And Outfront won't update my ECU for 15lbs boost, said there are too many variables. He said I should get it on a dyno. I do understand that there are a lot of variables in play(intercooler, compression, cam, turbo, etc).
Mike is set up for 15lbs with a tune from them, I wonder how hard it would be to copy his and update mine? DS? Enemy? it is an EMS brand ECU, Stinger model. He said that the tunes were not locked.
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I was wanting to go up to 400 hp on the engine, but I did not have a closed deck or good crank. I did a compression test before I tore it down and all were within 2 lbs of each other, but when I did a leak down test, the intake valves on #3 were whistling pretty good. Had them rebuilt and they broke a bolt off in the head and didn't tell me (they might have broke it on the final assy and didn't know?). Got the bolt out but it was a hard bolt to find. Special stepped shoulder bolt to align the cam bearing cap. The new turbo won't fit, the intake manifold wouldn't fit, the water crossover hit a vent tube, etc. Just the joys of new build/ But I am powering thru it. I did get to use my new bridgeport to ream out the heads for larger 1/2" head studs.
Gotta love those old Bridgeports. I use mine all the time.Could not live/build stuff without it.
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I know yours has run great for some time. Best guess where it was 9n hp before rebuild? I know 400 chp is the goal just wondering what the step up might be?
What did the builder say about breaking the bolt OFF?
that all sucksvexcept playing with the Bridgeport!
BrianN enjoys rebuilding the suby engines ..... just ask him ;) ;D
Your def having a challenging time like I have been.
Outfront said my old engine S/B 320hp. Going from 10lbs to 15lbs boost, I have heard that getting into the teens on boost will really wake up a subi. I ran the setup for 12 years. I wanted to go up to 17 or 18lbs (just to have bragging rights over Mike LMAO) but John wanted me to have a boost controller if I was going over 15lbs, I didn't want to mess with one.
I didn't even talk to the builder, I already had the heads installed before I realized the bolt was broke. The bolt broke off about 3/8" down into the hole, so I made a bushing on the lathe to fit the hole then used a left handed drill bit. My wife said "They make drill bits for left handed people?" LMAO I was nice in my reply. :m :m :m
I am only going to run 10lbs boost this next trip as I don't have time to get it on a dyno. But it will be cool to see the difference in the newer style turbo and how it spools up/
I bought the bridgeport from Jerry and added a DRO to it. Still need to add the 3rd axis, just haven't had time. 3 axis all the way!! Best money ever spent for sure .
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I know yours has run great for some time. Best guess where it was 9n hp before rebuild? I know 400 chp is the goal just wondering what the step up might be?
What did the builder say about breaking the bolt OFF?
that all sucksvexcept playing with the Bridgeport!
BrianN enjoys rebuilding the suby engines ..... just ask him ;) ;D
Your def having a challenging time like I have been.
Outfront said my old engine S/B 320hp. Going from 10lbs to 15lbs boost, I have heard that getting into the teens on boost will really wake up a subi. I ran the setup for 12 years. I wanted to go up to 17 or 18lbs (just to have bragging rights over Mike LMAO) but John wanted me to have a boost controller if I was going over 15lbs, I didn't want to mess with one.
I didn't even talk to the builder, I already had the heads installed before I realized the bolt was broke. The bolt broke off about 3/8" down into the hole, so I made a bushing on the lathe to fit the hole then used a left handed drill bit. My wife said "They make drill bits for left handed people?" LMAO I was nice in my reply.
I am only going to run 10lbs boost this next trip as I don't have time to get it on a dyno. But it will be cool to see the difference in the newer style turbo and how it spools up/
I bought the bridgeport from Jerry and added a DRO to it. Still need to add the 3rd axis, just haven't had time.
In response to the left handed drill bits..... https://twitter.com/CheeseheadBrian/status/1773856779572568264?t=LGMirFsseexfYdMumecTpg&s=01
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And Outfront won't update my ECU for 15lbs boost, said there are too many variables. He said I should get it on a dyno. I do understand that there are a lot of variables in play(intercooler, compression, cam, turbo, etc).
Mike is set up for 15lbs with a tune from them, I wonder how hard it would be to copy his and update mine? DS? Enemy? it is an EMS brand ECU, Stinger model. He said that the tunes were not locked.
So truth be told, I am not a John of outfront fan. Not saying he doesn't know what he's doing just don't agree with the way he does many things.
Now, I know big Dave bought his turnkey engine from John, I thought Mike did too but I'm sure you can correct me on mikes engine. So based on friends personal experience and many many comments on forums and fb rail groups....... John isnt interested in really helping if you aren't spending good money. Now, my guess is that a lot of this is due to either he has paid to have tunes written for his engine builds or he himself has produced the tunes. Either way, whoever did, there are no provisions surrounding anything other then his build type. I always disagreed with the fact that Glenn old green rail didnt run an o2 sensor. Didnt see one on big daves or mikes either. Jerry's is a diff story altogether. I am no expert so I could be waaaaay off. If there is no o2 sensor then the ecu cannot run in closed loop. As a matter of fact, he removed all sensors and actuators that were not needed as an essential system, his idea of essential. I full understand why, he's selling 5 wire turnkey engines. I believe in all the additional sensors. even though I'm not shooting for max hp, Those additional sensors activate additional safety systems that I want.
I looked at bigdaves laptop and tuning software once. I was surprised at the tune and explained why he was having some idle issues that an adjustment of the tps improved but didn't cure. He didn't have access to the key portions of the ecu in that tuning software. Not saying all of John's ecu's are set that way as I have no idea but John told him it was unlocked.
As far as copying mikes tune, to be installed into your ecu....... yes and no. Yes you can do it if the ecu is indeed unlocked/open source. If your both running very similar cams or same cam and the same compression ratio then yes . If your running a lower comp ratio then mike then still yes as his timing map has had timing pulled for the higher comp ratio. Next piece of the puzzle is what else the ecu looks at but if yours is the 5 wire then all can be adjusted or should be able to adjust if 8ts a good system.. Big hurdle will be lack of an 02 sensor to tune yourself. I doubt there's an auto tune function in that ecu but even with out, as long as you can data log the run, you can live tune it. Again, you need a reliable 02 sensor for that to be possible. If your tail pipe is short then the 02 sensor reading will be worthless below a certain rpm because wind will blow up in the tail pipe and screw the reading. No big deal, tune the lower cells in your garage at home.
So " a lot of variables " could have many meanings. Referring to mikes engine for this, if you 2 have the same size inj's, same stroke and bore, same comp ratio or his is slightly higher, as in half to a full point higher,,if your running the same crank/cam sensors, same throttle bodies and tps.......I see no reason not to and then live tune for the fine tune. You'll need some sort of 02 sensor reading for that. If your running leaded fuel that will shorten the 02 sensors life.
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I agree DS and I should have been more clear with my post. I just want a "base" tune to be half way close when I do go to a tuner. I don't have an O2 sensor and the exhaust is only 10" long. I just didn't want to start with a blank slate.
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10" exhaust rules out using an O2 sensor for sure. Tuning is at best a guess though without one,IMO.
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db69,do you know if Glenns car had an O2 sensor?
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I agree DS and I should have been more clear with my post. I just want a "base" tune to be half way close when I do go to a tuner. I don't have an O2 sensor and the exhaust is only 10" long. I just didn't want to start with a blank slate.
Ok, if your taking it to get it tuned then your current tune is your base tune. Just tell him what work was done to the motor and that you want it tuned for how ever much boost and set the wastegate for that. You may want to know what size injectors your running and a data sheet showing dead time/flow on them......if possible. Not sure he needs that or not. BrianN had his suby dyno'd there and might remember what he wanted.
I thought you meant that you wouldn't have time to get it to the tuners shop ( chris at witching dyno?) And just wanting to try mikes existing tune.
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10" exhaust rules out using an O2 sensor for sure. Tuning is at best a guess though without one,IMO.
Wonder if dyno shops have a strap on 02 sensor the mount to the ext tip? They have to have some way of working around that or atleast i would think so.
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When you sent the motor in for this work, did they install dished pistons to reduce comp ratio? I ask because I thought you said a while back that it was basically an n/a motor that boost was added too.
No matter what your existing tune will be just fine for a base map. Im just trying to wrap my head around why John wouldn't sell you the tune.
With all the work you had done, do they rate the motor for say 20 psi or 25 psi boost?? ;D ;) if 1t is fun then 25 is better :m
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10" exhaust rules out using an O2 sensor for sure. Tuning is at best a guess though without one,IMO.
Wonder if dyno shops have a strap on 02 sensor the mount to the ext tip? They have to have some way of working around that or atleast i would think so.
If you are talking Wichita Dyno then yes they have a tailpipe O2 sensor to put up the tailpipe as most tuner shops do. Will it be accurate with a short pipe? Not IMO. Damn sure will not be accurate if just at the tip. It needs to be as far up the exhaust as the sensor can be placed . FWIW,I would never consider running without a decent length pipe that can have a properly located O2 sensor unless running alpha n.
On a side note,I will not likely be using Wichita Dyno again after my last tune.
Chris is a nice guy and easy to deal with BUT, the tune was crap. I had to do it over to where I had it before I took it to him. IMO,a proper exhaust with an O2 sensor and logging in the real world is the best way.
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I agree a wedged in 02 isn't the most accurate but better then nothing / close enough. So it seems to me that an 02 sensor along with a flex duel sensor was added to Glenn's yellow rail about the same time. His exh was short like db69's and I seemed to remember being able to see the tip of the 02 inside it. That is an inherit problem with a rear engine build. I'm sure there's a solution as well.
Wichita dyno, I've heard good and concerning remarks from a large number of people. Nothing horrifying but some praise. Where I do agree live tuning takes longer but gets you on the mark, w/o an o2 sensor thats just not possible for engine builds like outfronts. A trip to the dyno for a very very conservative tune and thats it.
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5: fxxk
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I'm not a fan of open loop tunes like a lot do.
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I believe that Wichita Dyno and most shops as well tune mostly for idle and WOT such as is seen drag racing.That is pretty easy and quick to do. The attention to tuning part throttle and at various loads is very time consuming and therefore not much attention is given . All that is needed is smoothing of the cells to a nice 3d shape and it will run -OK. When the engine is usually at varying throttle and loads like we are then it becomes a bit more necessary to tune across the board so to speak. Got home and went for a ride. Ran poorly part throttle.When I opened the tune up I found Chris had left a cell empty in the middle of the grid. It created a big funnel shape that covered the center of the grid.How/why that happened is anybodys guess but it damn sure should not have left the dyno like that. He only spent about 2 hours on the dyno. He did give me a discounted price since it usually takes 4-6 hours or so. It was nice to see what the wheel HP was though.
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5: fxxk
:m :nw you have run 12 years in this manner, with out any issues that took the motor out atleast. You've been happy with it, you can continue or build longer exh. Prob have to look like a pigs tail with the available room.
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It doesn't need to be permanent. Use a slip on extension,sealed up well for the tune session. Remove it after the tune session,run in open loop. The drawback to not running an O2 is no compensation for varying air conditions/altitude. It will only consider throttle position and and airflow or mass. It will not be able to hit target AFR's via the O2.
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I am losing my enthusiasm for this whole deal. May need a new ECU, they don't make the stinger any longer anyway. I have a name of another dyno shop here local and may try them.
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Where is that can of worms? Oh there it is ,we already opened it..................
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I am losing my enthusiasm for this whole deal. May need a new ECU, they don't make the stinger any longer anyway. I have a name of another dyno shop here local and may try them.
So your ecu is like my megasand trans :m
If I were considering a modern open source ecu and I had a tuner in mind I want ed to use locally, I would call and ask which ecu he know best.
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I called Wichita dyno and they only work on domestic engines. Maybe I didn't think this all the way thru. I think I will just bolt a holley carb to it
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I called Wichita dyno and they only work on domestic engines. Maybe I didn't think this all the way thru. I think I will just bolt a holley carb to it
Wonder when they changed policies?
As far as the holly idea. ;D
(https://i.postimg.cc/9RCJqWZg/Screenshot-20240405-185724-Duck-Duck-Go.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9RCJqWZg)
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I haven't kept up with all that is available but I would consider Holley EFI. Not the base units though. I forget the name right now.I agree with DS about using a tuner that is very familiar with whatever you decide to use. That or learn to tune/log/tune/log/tune etc. yourself. I personally recommend that. If you understand tune basics ,and I think you do,it is not all that difficult. The bonus is that you KNOW your system when it tells you to pound sand. :D :D :m
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I called Wichita dyno and they only work on domestic engines. Maybe I didn't think this all the way thru. I think I will just bolt a holley carb to it
Wonder when they changed policies?
As far as the holly idea. ;D
(https://i.postimg.cc/9RCJqWZg/Screenshot-20240405-185724-Duck-Duck-Go.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9RCJqWZg)
I think both Glenn and Jerry were not really happy with their subi tunes. Maybe Chris found it best to concentrate on a well known segment of the aftermarket performance . I mean everyone has an LS and tunes are basically available everywhere. Not hard to just cut and paste an appropriate one in and presto! you're tuned.
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I am losing my enthusiasm for this whole deal. May need a new ECU, they don't make the stinger any longer anyway. I have a name of another dyno shop here local and may try them.
What engine do you run again?? Factory butchered harness??
There are a couple plug-and-play options out there for a Subaru using a factory style harness. Otherwise update to a modern stand alone ECU with all the options. Holly, Link, MS3 all do the same thing, it is how many inputs and outputs the board supports. I have run them all but keep going back to the MS platform because of the tuning software that runs it. (I cant stand the clunky feel of the holly terminator software)
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ms3pro-mini-standalone-engine-management-system-w-harness/ (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ms3pro-mini-standalone-engine-management-system-w-harness/)
This is the new MS3, excellent bang for the buck. Wire it in, set up your project, hit the MS forum and grab a base timing map and start tuning.
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Throwing out my 2 cents. I use CB Performances ecu on my trike motor. it is completely unlocked and tunable. the same ecu can be used on a subaru Motor. Mark at CB Performance has allways been helpful with set up. mark can VPN to your ecu and assist with the tune. for a fee of course. i have been very happy with the tune on my VW motor. i can't say what his Subaru tuning skill set is, but it might be worth the call. https://www.cbperformance.com/Injection-Kits-s/288.htm
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Throwing out my 2 cents. I use CB Performances ecu on my trike motor. it is completely unlocked and tunable. the same ecu can be used on a subaru Motor. Mark at CB Performance has allways been helpful with set up. mark can VPN to your ecu and assist with the tune. for a fee of course. i have been very happy with the tune on my VW motor. i can't say what his Subaru tuning skill set is, but it might be worth the call. https://www.cbperformance.com/Injection-Kits-s/288.htm
Good info !
Didn't you have your suby tuned by chris?
What ecu was that?
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I haven't kept up with all that is available but I would consider Holley EFI. Not the base units though. I forget the name right now.I agree with DS about using a tuner that is very familiar with whatever you decide to use. That or learn to tune/log/tune/log/tune etc. yourself. I personally recommend that. If you understand tune basics ,and I think you do,it is not all that difficult. The bonus is that you KNOW your system when it tells you to pound sand. :D :D :m
This absolutely true!!
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This pic is from Ron Williams, he rebuilds transaxles. This one 8s an s4. He said the owner g'd out to hard at the bottom of the dune and broke the case. So I consider that bottoming out really bad and I have to wonder how hard they felt it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RNwGqWQ0/Screenshot-20240408-142430-Facebook.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RNwGqWQ0)
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DS, sorry your thread got highjacked. This is the last post on this, when I have more questions I will start a new thread. Thanks for inputs everyone, I am also looking at MoTec because the shop in Tulsa uses them and you can get a tune for a subi 2.5 turbo which will at least get it running.
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Throwing out my 2 cents. I use CB Performances ecu on my trike motor. it is completely unlocked and tunable. the same ecu can be used on a subaru Motor. Mark at CB Performance has allways been helpful with set up. mark can VPN to your ecu and assist with the tune. for a fee of course. i have been very happy with the tune on my VW motor. i can't say what his Subaru tuning skill set is, but it might be worth the call. https://www.cbperformance.com/Injection-Kits-s/288.htm
Good info !
Didn't you have your suby tuned by chris?
What ecu was that?
not the 2.5 suby. i had him attempted to do the 2.0 suby. i basically ran into the same thing as fabr. when i got home and put it in the sand,it would put me in a limp mode. i finally dumped the old program back in it. that motor is still running in my buddy's street car just fine.
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This pic is from Ron Williams, he rebuilds transaxles. This one 8s an s4. He said the owner g'd out to hard at the bottom of the dune and broke the case. So I consider that bottoming out really bad and I have to wonder how hard they felt it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RNwGqWQ0/Screenshot-20240408-142430-Facebook.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RNwGqWQ0)
i have been enjoying fowling Ron on FaceBook as well. he turns out some nice transaxle work.
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DS, sorry your thread got highjacked. This is the last post on this, when I have more questions I will start a new thread. Thanks for inputs everyone, I am also looking at MoTec because the shop in Tulsa uses them and you can get a tune for a subi 2.5 turbo which will at least get it running.
Don't mind at all. Mo tec is a solid system.
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Throwing out my 2 cents. I use CB Performances ecu on my trike motor. it is completely unlocked and tunable. the same ecu can be used on a subaru Motor. Mark at CB Performance has allways been helpful with set up. mark can VPN to your ecu and assist with the tune. for a fee of course. i have been very happy with the tune on my VW motor. i can't say what his Subaru tuning skill set is, but it might be worth the call. https://www.cbperformance.com/Injection-Kits-s/288.htm
Good info !
Didn't you have your suby tuned by chris?
What ecu was that?
not the 2.5 suby. i had him attempted to do the 2.0 suby. i basically ran into the same thing as fabr. when i got home and put it in the sand,it would put me in a limp mode. i finally dumped the old program back in it. that motor is still running in my buddy's street car just fine.
It was the 2.0 suby I was thinking of.
Ron does turn out some nice work!!
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Got a little more done intercooler is remounted. Radiator is 80% re mounted. Add the 2 tubes in the back for the round fuel tank. It will have to do for now .
(https://i.postimg.cc/D8tzsRPL/20240409-215006.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8tzsRPL)
(https://i.postimg.cc/v1XMPKfP/20240409-215021.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v1XMPKfP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HV32k4wq/20240409-215254.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HV32k4wq)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LnM98j93/20240409-215302.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LnM98j93)
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On another note, I ordered a new engine stand from Jegs. Never bought Nutting from them before but the had a stand I liked. My old 3 footed engine stand , that my engine has been On for a year! Decided to fook me. I rolled the engine over to change the oil pump and pick up tube. Went to roll the engine back over and as I was lifting the bar and pulling up on the val e cover the damn thing tipped over and the engine hit the concrete. No part of it was good but atleast it was flipped over and lower to the ground. Destroyed the customer 130 amp 1 wire alt, snapped the nipple off the boost control solenoid and some minor stuff. No damage to crank that I can see, spun it over several times, spun all other pulley all look good spinning by hand. Decided to replace the water pump and pulley just to be safe. $400 in parts and not sure if they will show up in time. $385 shipped for the engine stand with a few accessories like the oil drip pan! Figure i spent that much alone on engine parts!
(https://i.postimg.cc/hftN100r/20240408-183440.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hftN100r)
(https://i.postimg.cc/349nkPzH/20240408-161134.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/349nkPzH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9D3tQmz7/20240406-101111.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9D3tQmz7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/f389mDW5/20240406-101104.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f389mDW5)
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Gonna be like driving a whole new car. Looks good,as you always do.
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On another note, I ordered a new engine stand from Jegs. Never bought Nutting from them before but the had a stand I liked. My old 3 footed engine stand , that my engine has been On for a year! Decided to fook me. I rolled the engine over to change the oil pump and pick up tube. Went to roll the engine back over and as I was lifting the bar and pulling up on the val e cover the damn thing tipped over and the engine hit the concrete. No part of it was good but atleast it was flipped over and lower to the ground. Destroyed the customer 130 amp 1 wire alt, snapped the nipple off the boost control solenoid and some minor stuff. No damage to crank that I can see, spun it over several times, spun all other pulley all look good spinning by hand. Decided to replace the water pump and pulley just to be safe. $400 in parts and not sure if they will show up in time. $385 shipped for the engine stand with a few accessories like the oil drip pan! Figure i spent that much alone on engine parts!
(https://i.postimg.cc/hftN100r/20240408-183440.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hftN100r)
(https://i.postimg.cc/349nkPzH/20240408-161134.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/349nkPzH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9D3tQmz7/20240406-101111.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9D3tQmz7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/f389mDW5/20240406-101104.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f389mDW5)
Well,that sucks! I had it happen to me years ago and those 3 footed suckers hit the rummage sale. I got lucky,just a dented valve cover.I have 3 of the 4 footed ones now . Word of caution,4 footers can tip over also. Much harder but be careful .
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I am jealous of the geared head.
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I am jealous of the geared head.
Good info on the 4 legs tipping still. My other stand is a 4 leg but there's engine on it so I grabbed the tri foot.
So I specifically searched for a geared head because it was during the tipping back up that it happened. I'm sure since I had to help it, between the lever and myself lifting up on the top of the engine thats what cause the leg to roll out from underneath. The geared head should be far far far more controllable and one handed! I hope I never need it but we both know thats not true :m :nw.
The 3 legged stand has been demotex to vw engine stand only!
So the 1 wire 30 amp alt was built by motor city reman in Michigan. I am having the new built them as well in hopes it runs as flawless as the crushed one. Do I need 130 amps?? No, not really but its nice to know its there if I need it. The alt was cheaper them the Bosch boost control solenoid.... by a few dollars.
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Also, a thanks to enemy for running his suitcase tig over. You can see it next to the 3 legged worthless pos engine stand in The above pic. Since my frame is now 8" longer, my exh must grow as well. Cut it all up, made the extension, and my tig decided to give me the perverbial finger. Pretty sure the gas line blew off the fitting internally but who knows for sure and I just never liked it. Enemy's Miller is a great tig. I have struggled to learn to weld with my eye injury and that has been challenging but the tig, something about that bright color or having to focus on it more.....not sure but I struggled big time. Luckily its just a tail pipe.
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enemy.......when were you going to tell me that efi live finally put out the digital dash's for the megasquirt ecu's ????!!!!!!! 12.3 hard wired 100% configurable dash! a little spendy but litterally plug n play for my ecu and i can data log, read auto tune and make changes from the dash!!
https://www.stinger-performance.com/store/digital-dash-12.3-std-mount-dd-efi
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Your welding looks dam good for a one eye SB. :m Really sucks about the engine flipping over.
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I bought my high output alternator from Nations Alternator. https://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/ I could not be happier with it.
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Your welding looks dam good for a one eye SB. :m Really sucks about the engine flipping over.
Thanks but pics can be deceiving. Getting better though.
It does suck about the motor hitting the ground! First wave of parts showed up today. Fingers crossed the rest do in a timely manner.
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I bought my high output alternator from Nations Alternator. https://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/ I could not be happier with it.
Great info and if needed again, I will give them a try. To be honest, I don't truly need 130 amp but they offer it in a case that bolts in to a stock location. My engine came out of an 88 thunder bird or as I affectionately call them.....thunder chickens lol. They were v belts and I pre fer the serpentine belt design. So I bought all the pulleys and mounts off a 1994 Ranger 2.3 n/a and bolted them on. Now Ranger made a belt that bypassed the power steering and a/c system so stock belts , water pumps, belt tensioner, pulleys etc etc are available at any parts store. I could go with a stock 90 amp alt and connect it backvto to ecu but the 1 wire did all I needed with 0 issues. Tried and true works for myself but it does complicate replacements.
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My new engine stand showed up today. They offered a plastic drip pan for the base so I bought it too. Sadly their info was wrong and it doesn't not fit as pictured. I will send that back.
The new stand is nice and my motor will be back on it this weekend. Need to pull everything out to finish welding everything. Folds up for easy storage too. Has a 1000 lb rating. 2 grease zeros to grease the gears and shaft.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QFZxpX2P/20240411-173544.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFZxpX2P)
(https://i.postimg.cc/v4yb409w/20240411-135421.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4yb409w)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8srSw2mV/20240411-135410.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8srSw2mV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hJjFm6t6/20240411-135403.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJjFm6t6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BtFr2xJS/20240411-135356.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BtFr2xJS)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NyVnH0V2/20240411-135352.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NyVnH0V2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TLD4q6M7/20240411-135347.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TLD4q6M7)
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My new engine stand showed up today. They offered a plastic drip pan for the base so I bought it too. Sadly their info was wrong and it doesn't not fit as pictured. I will send that back.
The new stand is nice and my motor will be back on it this weekend. Need to pull everything out to finish welding everything. Folds up for easy storage too. Has a 1000 lb rating.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QFZxpX2P/20240411-173544.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFZxpX2P)
(https://i.postimg.cc/v4yb409w/20240411-135421.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4yb409w)
Cool,too bad the drip pan was a no go.
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enemy.......when were you going to tell me that efi live finally put out the digital dash's for the megasquirt ecu's ????!!!!!!! 12.3 hard wired 100% configurable dash! a little spendy but litterally plug n play for my ecu and i can data log, read auto tune and make changes from the dash!!
https://www.stinger-performance.com/store/digital-dash-12.3-std-mount-dd-efi
NICE FIND!
Havent hit his site in a while.. Noticed a couple guys on the MS forum building some dashes for Tunerstudio, but that is top notch. I will stick with analog needles is the car for now, not that I pay much attention to them anyway lol
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My new engine stand showed up today. They offered a plastic drip pan for the base so I bought it too. Sadly their info was wrong and it doesn't not fit
Cool,too bad the drip pan was a no go.
Ya, it is actually a nice drip pan but at $80 i don't want to cut it up. The center angled support is what interferes. Would need to cut an additional 6" out of the center to clear that brace. I'm not willing to simply remove the brace either.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rKXYSt6X/20240412-110055.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKXYSt6X)
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enemy.......when were you going to tell me that efi live finally put out the digital dash's for the megasquirt ecu's ????!!!!!!! 12.3 hard wired 100% configurable dash! a little spendy but litterally plug n play for my ecu and i can data log, read auto tune and make changes from the dash!!
https://www.stinger-performance.com/store/digital-dash-12.3-std-mount-dd-efi
NICE FIND!
Havent hit his site in a while.. Noticed a couple guys on the MS forum building some dashes for Tunerstudio, but that is top notch. I will stick with analog needles is the car for now, not that I pay much attention to them anyway lol
Really like the touch screen tablet with large display !! I know this can be done with shadow dash on a tablet but not quite as stream lined. I am not 9verly fond of the price tag nor do I need to be able to change tables via the display......damn nice feature but unessacary for my application. I really like it though. I read what little info they offer on both the $699 and $999 12.3" models. Standard and pro models and the pro states fuel gauge but standard doesn't. The instruction manual states there 8s an analog sensor with its own harness needed for the fuel gauge function. So this should be possible to add directly to my ms3 ecu and display on a tablet.
Really like the GPS function too
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(https://i.postimg.cc/XBf8dhKF/20240413-141221.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XBf8dhKF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/68jhrCZH/20240413-141213.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/68jhrCZH)
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Looking like you will make it.
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I had high hopes but by end of day sun , I knew it wouldn't make the trip.
Do you know the name of the company that sells the ceramic windshields?
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Optic Armor is who i got mine from. It is some propietary coating . I don't know what but it is tough. Supposed to be best on market. It will scratch but not with cleaning. They actually recommend paper towels and non amonia glass cleaner. I use Invisible Glass.
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They have 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4. I used 3/16 but wish i had gone 1/4". At about 80 it begins pushing in..
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They have 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4. I used 3/16 but wish i had gone 1/4". At about 80 it begins pushing in..
Thanks and good info.
What was your made for? Looking on their site.
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I was hoping they offered on for a Baja bug but don't see it. Now the one they offer for the 1993 mustang is interesting. If its just coated plex or lexsand then I can cut and shape it to fit.
Luckily I have access to a list of windshield dimensions. They are of the block size rather then the detailed size but that what I need anyway. I know a 1973 super beetle windshield will fit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t1MLpXSc/20240415-153337.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t1MLpXSc)
(https://i.postimg.cc/N27J9YDB/20240415-153328.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N27J9YDB)
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And the mustang coupe for 1994 to 2004 is.....
(https://i.postimg.cc/TLkSCTm0/20240415-153717.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TLkSCTm0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5XwRDBL6/20240415-153708.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5XwRDBL6)
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1982 - 1993 s10 windshield is.....
(https://i.postimg.cc/VS0B3134/20240415-154227.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VS0B3134)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LgDzzs14/20240415-154218.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LgDzzs14)
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1994 to 2004 s10 is....
(https://i.postimg.cc/7Gz68PMH/20240415-154418.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7Gz68PMH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/87nP7fZk/20240415-154408.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/87nP7fZk)
1973 super beetle's block size is 19.9x45.7"
1969 beetle is 17.9 x 41.7"
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They have 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4. I used 3/16 but wish i had gone 1/4". At about 80 it begins pushing in..
Thanks and good info.
What was your made for? Looking on their site.
Mine is for a 99-04 S-10 BUT it is upside down and trimmed to final shape. :nw :m
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http://www.opticarmorwindows.com/#
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The coating is very scratch resistant. At the first I would always spray off the dust before cleaning it. No need,just be sure you use Invisible Glass on it. A very nice side benefit of Optic Armor coating is that it is hydrophobic. Water just sheds off it. That is why I haven't bothered to put the wipers on the buggy. Kind of weird when cleaning as the Invisible Glass just beads up on the surface. I do a quick overall wipe to get rid of all dust/dirt then spray it again and polish/dry it off with a clean paper towel. I use the blue Scott shop rags.
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the fact that it has lasted for you this long tells me all i need to know!! i will need a windsheild to better protect my eyes. thanks for the info and i need to measure.
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ran across this tatum sand demon ad on fb. not a fan of the surf board looking front end but im sure im in the minority :m what really caught my eye was the rear shock mounts, well that and the air cleaner :m
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/786945790013961?rid=10223754671564260&ad_id&rt=1&refID=0&refType=0&referral_code=commerce_attachment
(https://i.postimg.cc/Q95k732h/429388144-889572802920237-3221548605448823871-n.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q95k732h)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Rq7LVv1T/433387273-1126632188462570-3301399385604903433-n.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Rq7LVv1T)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5QSBPm9r/438155949-1255328058620934-2395536879919302927-n.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5QSBPm9r)
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Unique way to mount the rears for sure. Pretty nice car overall.
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I'm sure those rear mounts work, just never seen mounts like those. I can also see the " packaging " advantage to rear engine configurations. I still pre fer mid engine .
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Maybe I'm wrong but the only advantage to rear engine configuration is if a person wants to wheelie at will. I prefer the front stay down.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/WDMFSddD/Screenshot-20240417-073654-Duck-Duck-Go.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WDMFSddD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/cKMCwPzw/Screenshot-20240417-073637-Duck-Duck-Go.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cKMCwPzw)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4mDxMJkp/Screenshot-20240417-073617-Duck-Duck-Go.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4mDxMJkp)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vd6KT8Bs/Screenshot-20240417-073825-Gallery.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Vd6KT8Bs)
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I called and spoke with the guy at optic armor. Hell of a nice guy and has a lot of experience in the auto glass field as well as knowledgeable into the adhesives, adhesion promotors and primers we use. I have tried many variations of many brands of urethane adhesives over the last 32 years in this field.
Optic armor is located by the lake of the Ozarks. They ride at ls dunes and have visited silverlake. 6 hr drive to ls ok though.
The reasons I mention the urethane adhesives is because their drop ins are produced with a frit to be glued in. The reason there coating works so well is its silicone based. So 220 grit sand paper to knock the coating off and the apply the black frit primer we use to glue a non glass frit model in. That model is called oversized as the square cut the cut to shape. Going that route is about $100 cheaper then a drop in. Found it very interesting that the windshields can be shaped in a sweet metal break and that they'll hold shape. He said you have to over bend it more then one would think but it works well.
Measured my opening last night and my max opening is 22x41". They offer a line of drop in jeep windshields as well. Where I would prefer some curve just for asthetics, flat is fine to. So surprisingly they make a windshield for a jk wrangler, they have a curve about that of the s 10 windshield. The over sized version block size is 18.7 x 56". That may not need be cut down in height, just width and radius the corners. He said jig saw and I have a 2000 grid wet sander at work I can use to sand fine tune it. Over sized jk .25"x18.7x56" is $380 plus $50 shipping. 4 weeks out and it ordered one.
They use a 3m frit primer and Bostwick urethane #70-08a.
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No need to wet sand the edges. Dry is fine. I suggest at least 2 thickness masking tape on saw foot and 2 on the windshield just to be safe against scratches. HINT:Use ONLY sharp,ground teeth jig saw blades. Do not use fine tooth types either.Are you doing a glue in? I figured you would do a rubber mount. I pretty much had no choice but I think I would do the rubber mount again. I have some scrap material and will do a couple bends to see if the coating scratches/fractures.
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No need to wet sand the edges. Dry is fine. I suggest at least 2 thickness masking tape on saw foot and 2 on the windshield just to be safe against scratches. HINT:Use ONLY sharp,ground teeth jig saw blades. Do not use fine tooth types either.Are you doing a glue in? I figured you would do a rubber mount. I pretty much had no choice but I think I would do the rubber mount again. I have some scrap material and will do a couple bends to see if the coating scratches/fractures.
i guess i had never heard of ground tooth jig saw blades but ill look into it. i did tell him i wanted 1/4" thick and the cat gasket is good for 3/16" to 1/4". the jk wrangler windshield doens't have much curve to it but it does have a curve where the older wrangler windshields are flat.
on the fence as to glue in or gasket. i know which style gasket you used and if i use gasket it will be what i call the self locking cat style. here is a link to graingers site that sells what i call self locking cat gasket.
https://www.grainger.com/product/10G557?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:MS:CSM-2295:TVRYAD:20501231&gclid=f5e4a3db1f7e1cd15cd4c5fa0f971a91&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=f5e4a3db1f7e1cd15cd4c5fa0f971a91&gclid=f5e4a3db1f7e1cd15cd4c5fa0f971a91&gclsrc=3p.ds
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pulled one of the rear shocks off of scotts rail last night. the coils are 14" 325 top and 16" 400 bottom with only 1/2" of pre load! bottom needs to be 16" tall but the top should be 12" rather then 14" tall. you can barely get the coil rings on. clearly over sprung for my application and my son in law, so , going to stop at speedway tonight and hope to get 300 lower and 250 upper. that should take the pog stick out.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/YLLKbtnz/20240417-201349.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YLLKbtnz)
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Ground tooth jig saw blades will not be painted and teeth have very sharp points like circular saw blades are. The blade will usually be hollow ground as well making tight radius cuts easier. 10 points per inch is a good choice. The teeth will also be alternate set left/right just like a good saw blade is as opposed to regular wavy set junk.
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Did not know any of that ! Great info.
I am not sure on glue or gasket. I know both well but ease of replacement is a factor and we both know which one is easier.
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rained all day and have a guy interested in the pbs mid engine shifter housing on the megasand. decided to pull it apart to see what gave up and well , all of it did :m
https://youtu.be/mSLyg8KyI_U?si=gfMx881xZT0QJe7h
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It's raining under our house at Waynoka. Broken water line. Apparently some of the towns cats fought to get under the house this winter and failed to close the crawl space door when they left. Gonna be stuck around the house till the plumber gets here-hopefully.
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It's raining under our house at Waynoka. Broken water line. Apparently some of the towns cats fought to get under the house this winter and failed to close the crawl space door when they left. Gonna be stuck around the house till the plumber gets here-hopefully.
Well that sucks. I hope there is no foundation damage.
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No damage. I turn the water off when we leave. Got lucky and the guy that did some work for me 5 years ago came right over this morning and had us back in business before noon. 2 guys @ $135 an hour combined. Pretty reasonable for unscheduled repair at short notice. I was quite pleased I did not have to fix the shit myself. Plumbers are in short supply down here.
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No damage. I turn the water off when we leave. Got lucky and the guy that did some work for me 5 years ago came right over this morning and had us back in business before noon. 2 guys @ $135 an hour combined. Pretty reasonable for unscheduled repair at short notice. I was quite pleased I did not have to fix the shit myself. Plumbers are in short supply down here.
Glad they got it fixed and a good thing you shut the water off! I have no doubt plumbers are in short supply which makes that price amazing.
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When you going to make it here?