DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Machinery, Trailers, Toyhaulers and Motorhomes => Trailers, Toyhaulers and Motorhomes => Topic started by: Dunebound69 on April 03, 2011, 05:53:15 PM
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Put in diamond plate. The paint was showing tire marks to much for my taste.
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Bout time, thought I was going to have to reposess a few sheets!! LMAO LMAO LMAO Got to find his ## need to see if he has some more...............
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Still have 2 sheets I am not sure what I am going to do with. Cutting them is not the bad part. Fastening them down takes for ever! My hands cant take it. Still sore as hell from surgery. But there cut and I will get them secured after work for the next few days.
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Nice job. How are you anchoring?
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Lookin Good!!! ;D ;D ;D
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Self drilling screws and pop rivets. Varied by what I had to attach to. I will caulk the seams to keep stuff from getting behind it. Cutting it was no big deal. Attaching it takes forever it seems. Did earn some cuts and scrapes. Do not like working on the floor! Gets to the knees.
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Quite disappointed, not tig welding seams?? kick kick kick
LMAO LMAO rofl LMAO LMAO
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Tig weld! That would be a but load of welding. Don't own a tig machine anyways. Sounds like a good way to burn the trailer down.
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Use Sonneborne NP-1 to seal the seams. Comes in 10.5 oz. and 29 oz. tubes. Use a GOOD gun and you will have the most durable caulk you can use. Comes in several colors but limestone gray is your best match. Gun it out neatly as it is very sticky and hard to "tool". If you need to smooth it out let it skin over and use water to lube it as you tool. It will take 3-7 days to full cure. This stuff will not fail.
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BTW,DO NOT use any silicone rubber caulk products-they will turn loose.
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Use Sonneborne NP-1 to seal the seams. Comes in 10.5 oz. and 29 oz. tubes. Use a GOOD gun and you will have the most durable caulk you can use. Comes in several colors but limestone gray is your best match. Gun it out neatly as it is very sticky and hard to "tool". If you need to smooth it out let it skin over and use water to lube it as you tool. It will take 3-7 days to full cure. This stuff will not fail.
Cool, thanks for the info master, I'll remember that for the future on my trailer. 8) 8) 8)
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BTW,DO NOT use any silicone rubber caulk products-they will turn loose.
What do you recommend?
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What do you recommend?
OMG!!! Look 4 post previous to this post for your answer! rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
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What do you recommend?
eyes gee,I dunno.
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Chewing Gum!! eyes eyes
+1 on the NP-1. I'm a Euclid dealer so we use the Eucolastic. Same thing. Stays rubbery like gum, good to like -40*(cuttin it close in KS) Expand and contract atleast 50% of original size, comes in caulk grade and self leveling and colors.
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Master thanks for the info. First day back at work yesterday. It kicked my ass and tried to feed it to me. I was a sleep at 7:30 last night. My hands are still real tender. Not to mention the strength is not back by any means. This could be a looooonnnng week.
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I still have 2 sheets of the alum. Think I want to sell them. I paid $70 a sheet that is the price. I am sure if I keep them I will use them some where just don't know right now and I need garage space. This is the stuff Carl brought to LS last fall.
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Those were 4X10 size weren't they?
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They are 4*10. Thin stuff but I used it as a skin. Just walking on the door your footing is much better. My rail would spin going in the trailer if I stopped on the door. I think I figured with 4*8s so I got done with extra left.
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They are 4*10. Thin stuff but I used it as a skin. Just walking on the door your footing is much better. My rail would spin going in the trailer if I stopped on the door. I think I figured with 4*8s so I got done with extra left.
Just hold on when it gets a little wet from a rain and you have tennis shoes on. No need to ask me how I know. My ass still hurts.
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Hehehheeeeee,I was waiting for someone to mention that little tidbit! LOL!!!!!!
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I put that stuff down because it is so dam slick! Our lift gates at work are pretty go when wet, they are steel though. I must admit you can get one hell of a suntan working with that stuff.
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I must admit you can get one hell of a suntan working with that stuff.
I don't doubt that. 8) 8) 8)
The same thing happen to me, the first time I had my new sand car at LS with a solid aluminum diamond tread floor. But I got fried like a lobster and that SUCKED!!!
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Is it me, but in your first picture, is your trailer hooked to an S-10???
Justin
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Yes that is an S-10. It pulls it just fine. DSrace, transman and master can confirm thats what I pulled it down to LS with last year.
Ok maybe it is just parked under it. LMAO rofl LMAO rofl
The S-10 is for sale by the way.
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Ok Dunebound! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
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Use Sonneborne NP-1 to seal the seams. Comes in 10.5 oz. and 29 oz. tubes. Use a GOOD gun and you will have the most durable caulk you can use. Comes in several colors but limestone gray is your best match. Gun it out neatly as it is very sticky and hard to "tool". If you need to smooth it out let it skin over and use water to lube it as you tool. It will take 3-7 days to full cure. This stuff will not fail.
Dam faber that NP-1 is some thick s@#t. Used some on my awning rail. I broke the caulking gun. Seems to be the ticket though. Haven't done the inside yet. Tore a bunch back out to do the awning and a couple other things.
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All urethanes have a finite shelf life. Only buy product that is 6-8 months or less old.Getting near a year is bad news usually unless stored in a cool DRY place. This stuff is moisture cure. Even then you need a good gun. An alternative ,equal quality ,is Sika 1A if NP-1 isn't available in your area.