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UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Chassis and Suspension => Topic started by: Carlriddle on November 27, 2010, 07:05:54 AM
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So I talked to the man in the red suit and talked to the man in the brown truck and looks like I'll be getting some new shocks for Christmas. My question comes on selecting the valving. Cant seem to find anything on the net. Everything seems to be in someones head from just experience. I know much of it is opinion, I was just looking to get closer than pulling something out of my butt.
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My experience exactly. You could try to ask someone who seems to have a similar setup and weight. However what looks similar could be off by 50% because of shock lean mounting points etc.
You would think that they would have a calculator like the spring calculators just to get ballpark.
I believe that after I get mine together and pull the shocks apart half a dozen times revalving that I would be able to give someone with a similar setup some guidance. But it doesn't seem anyone can make suggestions for me. :'(
Let me know when you get it figured out...... Best I can do at this point. ???
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Every car is different even if the same exact design due to differing driving styles,therefore, there is no way to give a guideline but since most people wouldn't know good from bad a generic 50/50 or so is provided unless something different is requested.
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So pulling ### outta my butt is the way to go. rofl drowning rofl Shock guy ask for bunch of stuff, weight, travel, angle of shock, ratio. So it sounds like when you order, go ahead and get some revalve stuff too. Gonna try and get close, I probably wont know the difference anyhow.
Fox 2.0 air no coilover. Under impression they come 40/60
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You IRS guys may differ...But I like a high rebound rate in the front...Keeps the front light but the tires on the ground more for steering. 90-10 to 80-20
I like the rear rebound quite a bit slower on the rebound 30 - 40 That allows for the rear to squat some and keep the weight transfer longer and tends to not jack rabbit on most jumps and obsticals you may encounter
Makes it toupher for pulling wheelies...but in the woods...wheelies= tree bark in your teeth
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gO WITH THE 40/60 AND SEE IF YOU LIKE IT. iF NOT PLAY WITH OIL LEVELS/VISCOSITY/nitrogen pressures. Then start over with different valving if you don't get it to where you like it. This is a trial and error thing.
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mine are 60/80..... we will see how they work.. soon enough.
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60 -80?
Valving usually equals 100 ::)
Prolly 60/40
A 50/50 shock is basically neutral same rebound and dampening
A 90/10 shock rises fast and compresses slow
Where as a 60/40 shock droops 20% faster/easier than it rebounds 8)
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#60 one way and #80 the other. It's not a total of 100 with fox.
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With the Fox airs, the first number is compression, second is rebound. The set I got came from OffRoad Warehouse valved 30/90 and tended to pack down because of the soft compression and slow rebound. I've got 45/65 in them now and they're better, not sure if they could be improved upon. The biggest improvement was adding the maximum ammount of oil, making them more progressive.
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On another forum I read of several guys running like 60-40. Made the wheels drop back down faster and not skipping the top.
Just so I'm clear as mud, on Fox shocks, higher number = ????
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higher # = slower
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::)
I've never played with fox airs/...I was just guesing, from what I know from roundy roun coil overs
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yea my shocks have it ingraved on the cap, 60/80
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Valving is to be thought of as the fine tuning done after the rough tuning of spring rates or nitrogen pressure/oil .
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Valving Fox airs is a crap shoot at best as they are an emulsion shock with a huge amount of air in them. Once you hit a few good sized bumps your oil will start to foam and your damping will take a nose dive. This is why they do better with more oil, the added spring rate progression makes up for the lack of damping.
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I've always had a git feelng that would be the case but Fox ,I think anyway I've read,says the very high pressure nitrogen keeps that from being an issue as the nitrogen bubbles are in solution sort of like a diver and thebends. Release the Nitro pressure and the foaming occurs but at the high pressure it does not. According from what I think I have read Fox saying. Any thoughts from personal experience? Just asking as I don't have a clue but it sounded plausible to me.
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Try this link. It might help with some numbers.
http://racerunnershocks.com/calculators/swayawayCalc.php#step5 (http://racerunnershocks.com/calculators/swayawayCalc.php#step5)
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I can say this from 10 years personal experiance, if you get the shock hot then yes the dampening fails but as far as hitting a bump on lighter weight rails no I have never felt the dampening fail. my 1600lb (1600 lb - 1800 lb guestimate) v-6 rail uses 2.0 air in the front and 2.0 coil assist air in the rear and I don't feel dampening failure from hitting a bump what I do feel is the transfer from primary to secondary coil in the rear! never felt that with air's! but in the end yes a start point for valving is kind of a crap shoot, getting it right takes time or you might get lucky and get it the first or second time. try them first then change pressure and add oil if that doesn't get it atleast you know which direction to go.