DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Member Project Logs => Topic started by: Carlriddle on October 21, 2008, 05:52:47 PM
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After much redo, $$$, this is where I stand. Real close, tell me what you think. More picture as soon as battery charges. ;D
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2nd pict,
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Looks good, You could add some diagonals to b pillar tho..
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I think the red looks the best... ;D
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yea i like this car alot!!
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Carl,
The car loks great just some fine tweaking and you'll be set.....
The door slams shut...the lights lower, spooky music and out comes EVIL SPEC...
Having the gas tank that high up and close to your head???
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Started up last night, and when put in 1st let out on clutch the chain slips on drive sprocket. Looking back while letting out on clutch you can see the motor and spool flex together and cause the chain to loosen and slip. Cant believe!! ???
Built a brace to the rear lower frame and tabbed to the rear motor mount. Damn thing better not move now.
Motor had been sitting in shop for years, cant get it to shift from 1st to 2nd while in my shop. Hoping it will as it is moving. Another test drive this eve.
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I'm 6'4" ;D
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hey carl, can yuo post more pictures? like alot? of your drive setup and linkages and brakes.
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Hmmmm, Could be. :o
He can drive it - me? I ride it. :P
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@#$#$%@$##@ $#@$#$##@$#
Ok I think I am gonna have to put a tensioner in to pull the chain up. It still wants to slip if you romp it. Sprocket are too close. Damn battery in digtal camera wont charge for more than 2 pict. @#@#$
Anyone know about trans gear, cant get it to shift past 1st(which slams your head into back of seat when you romp it which the chair slips then I start all over again! @$#%@$#@ @#$%%$%$ $$$
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yea i like this car alot!!
I.......CAN'T......HELP......MYSELF!!!!
A(spacebar)LOT.....two words... :police:
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@#$#$%@$##@ $#@$#$##@$#
Ok I think I am gonna have to put a tensioner in to pull the chain up. It still wants to slip if you romp it. Sprocket are too close. Damn battery in digtal camera wont charge for more than 2 pict. @#@#$
Anyone know about trans gear, cant get it to shift past 1st(which slams your head into back of seat when you romp it which the chair slips then I start all over again! @$#%@$#@ @#$%%$%$ $$$
Good battery or not some pics would help us help you.
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I.......CAN'T......HELP......MYSELF!!!!
A(spacebar)LOT.....two words... :police:
Not on this site it isn't, we don't have grammar cops here...
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Uhhh,we all ain't got none?
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Carl..buddy. Im not telling you what to do bro, but i want you to think of something here. Go with me on this.
Its a perfect day for riding and youve finally got everything fixed on your buggy. Fires right up and off through the woods you go. Soon your not able to help yourself (like all of us here) and you proceed to try to rip the spine out of your buggy. Sliding around every corner leaving a fog of dust in your wake. You start around a corner and are givin it hell. Sliding sidways half way around the corner she digs down and bites the ground like a starving man would a piece of chicken. Next thing you know your on your side. Then the top. Then the side. Now you notice this strange smell accompanied by being soaked with ..you got it...the fuel from the tank that is mounted out of the protection of the frame. One spark and all your leaving in your wake now will be flames ,burnt hair and what was a perfect day for riding. 10: You wouldnt even have to roll it. Just hit a low limb and puncture it then your a torch.
Everyone here wants to play, have fune...and most of all be SAFE doing it. If we see someone with something that could be that dangerous everyone will point it out. If you dont listen...we will roast marshmellows on the toasty flame your body is putting off. gg: No just kidding... its on you if you dont listen. Be safe and have fun. Later...oh and i dig the buggy man...im working on building one and these guys are alot of help...but like Fabr said if you dont post pics it is hard to help you.
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Hey Carl,
I'm thinking you got some serious frame flexing goin on in the motor bay, I've seen some others here go thru hundreds of dollars in chains only to find it was a flexing and distortion problem...
Yummie has a point, I know it takes time to change things on the Buggy, and we can seem like a pack of wild dogs on a fresh kill sometimes :o
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Definitly have some flex problem, some more bracing would help. Will post some close shots of the car and see if can tighten er up. Going to move the tank down to protect, but I have the exhaust coming over the top of engine. Looks cool as hell but, I couldn't put the tank at lower rear as I 1st hoped.
Still wont shift right. Anyone know shift pattern for zx600. Shifts good from nuetral down to 1st(I think its 1st) but wont go to 2nd, 3rd. I read in the repair manuel the shift forks can be damaged in wreck, and this bike was supposed to have been wrecked. Doesn't show any damage. but I may have to pullthe cover off.
Ordered the K & N's for carbs, will use pre filter cover too.
More pict tonight after the family pict at studio.
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Found some old pict of the first attemp at a buggy. Completey started over, sold the old roll cage for scrap. Looks and performs, sorta, alot better.
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Them pipes do look good!
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Hard to say from the pictures, but is there enough room behind the seat to mount the tank? Lower the CG and make it handle better?
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That is the old roll cage, it is now a set of brake rotors.
Here some fresh shot just taken, I have a couple braces I was thinking about but tell me what you think??
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A few more:
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how about dropping it down 3" and adding a back end to the car?
probably is a bent fork, take the cover of and check it out...
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Added 2 bars from the rear cross bar corners down to the bars going down under the exhaust. I would like to move the fuel tank down to where the radiator is, put it elsewhere.
Pulled the cover to expose the forks, they look good except one has the very tip of the lower kinda roiunded over. Not much just very slight. Did get it to shift to 2nd with a little force, 3rd 4th 5th shift well. Just going from 1st to 2nd is little tough. Waitn til Sat as I left the manuel at work, plenty of time to read as it rained like hell as no one waited to pour concrete today. It says if you pull one of thosse little thinge's too far the gear will fall into the case. Dont want to go there.
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Please for the safety of you and your family move that thing down as low a possible. Lets say that rubber hose comes off and spills on top of the hot motor right below the tank and you turn into the human torch. NOT COOL! Although expensive might want to get a small tank that will fit behind your seat, either custom or maybee through a place like jegs. Alot cheaper to buy a new tank then a new life. I ran a 6 gal tank with my bike motor and never burned more than 4 gals even on 2 or 3 hour rides. Also your chain is not going to live too long being soo short. Might want to move the hub back as far as possible and set up a tensioner. You will find that your chain will stretch over time. There are severial tensioner ideas you can use and if you need help there are plenty of people here who can give you some good ideas. I will try to find a pic of my old tensioner for you. Not trying to beat you up just save you troubles.
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Honestly I think the problem he has is there is not enough "wrap" around the forward sprocket, under load if you look, the chain will travel out forward from the front sprocket effectively leaving only a few teeth to contact the chain, enough rpm and the chain will literally fly off the sprocket. I think a tensioner under the fromt sprocket will solve your problem, and add a couple links to the chain for cooling at the same time, and start it tight but not too tight for the first try so it can stretch a little but still stay on...just my $.02
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Looks like plenty of wrap to me, it shouldn't be slipping, does look to loose tho, the shifting problem from here looks like the linkage is hitting the chain, not allowing it to move far enuff to shift, try taking the chain off and see if it shifts...may be able to clock the shift arm on the splines a little and get it to work... add a tensioner at the bottom off the chain, with that motor the chain should last somewhat reasonable time, unless its a 100mph duning machine, carry a spare chain along tho, as it is really to short for any long life...
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It wraps now by George. Moved the tank and radiator. Now I need a fuel pump as it below the carbs. Off to a party for 1 of my girls friends.
She picked the shift knob w/diamonds, and still wants to paint lime green & yellow. ;D ;D ;D
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was the linkage hitting the chain?
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WOW! :o Great mods!
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carl, what town do you live in, I may have to stop by and check that thing out, hell i may be at your back door were i am going....
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Rome
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Rome
yup hop skip and a jump...
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67 miles anyway, Im going to Jasper..
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Isn't there a Suzuki quad plant in Rome? I've been in that plant and I believe also a Honda watercraft plant.
Been a while back though. They were getting ready to build the Vinson. I think I was at a Kabota plant near there also. Hey Bug, are you moving or visiting?
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Isn't there a Suzuki quad plant in Rome? I've been in that plant and I believe also a Honda watercraft plant.
Been a while back though. They were getting ready to build the Vinson. I think I was at a Kabota plant near there also. Hey Bug, are you moving or visiting?
Visiting, I dont like Ga enuff to move...heading down over Thanksgiving...
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Hard to believe, but Atlanta traffic is worse than here.
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Ga was just not appealing to me, Id rather be in Tenn or the Carolina,s etc...Time will tell what i do...
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Suzuki, Honda car parts, Pirelli and yes Kubota just north in Calhoun. Jasper is now just a north Atlanta surburb. Probably a few more here and just north with the Volkswagon plant coming to Chatt, TN.
Can't believe I'm having such a time finding a fuel pump. Was thinking in 3-4 psi, only need to lift 2-3 inches???
Don't weld stuff you might want/need to move too damn good, Cause you play hell getting it back off. Like to have destroyed the tank mount brackets.
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Just keep the tank full for now, it will feed... ;D
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I imagine you do not need to be told a tank gurad from that chain s a good thing to have.
As for your shifting in the one picture showing of your shift linkage where it connects to the bike motor. It LOOKS like its at an angle feeding back from the shifter in the middle bewteen your seats???
If it is it might shift a lot better if you mount the shifter on a pivoting tube and run the shifter rod straight back from this tube to the bike motor.
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Shifting problem still exist when trying to shift at the motor and baby'n the sprocket to fall into gear. Even with thecover off to expose the shift shaft and shift drum only got it to shift from 1st to 2nd 3-4 times. Each time it wanted to stop in neutral then had to play with it to go to 2nd. The rest of the gears shifted well once 2nd was found. Thinking that if I can get it to 2nd and drive it a bit from 2nd -3rd back 2nd could get beter. Bought a fuel pump might try to get it on tonight. It was cheaper than filling the fuel tank. ;D
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Bought a fuel pump might try to get it on tonight. It was cheaper than filling the fuel tank. ;D
That's funny! Sad, true and funny.
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Don't know if this would help or not, but my cousin has an xr 200 that wouldn't go into first. I figured out that if you pull the shifter shaft out while shifting with your foot it would shift just fine. The solution? I put a sping between the shaft and the case, with a washer against the case/seal. Has been working for over a year now.
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http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=337.0;attach=1097;image (http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=337.0;attach=1097;image)
I think you need to add a brace on each side to triangulate the cage in the engine bay. I don't know how to draw it in but this picture shows where I would put it from the bar on the bottom that runs horizontal to the vertical section of the back bars if you need this area to remove the engine weld tabs and bolt the braces so it can be removed, if you can get the engine out I would weld the brace in. I think your chain slipping problem is caused from this flexing under torque. I am just looking at it from a mechanical stand point I am not a buggy builder. Nice job on the build. my .02.
Mike
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http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=337.0;attach=1099 (http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=337.0;attach=1099)
Hoping new back bars will keep from flexing. The rear spool bolts to a plate w/slots for chain adjusting. Last test the plate bowed up just a little, I have reinforced that now too. The spool even when torqued to 150lbs would slip, so now adj chain then tack weld spool in place. No more slipping.
That xr200 probable has a bent shift shaft fork on the inside of cover. Could probably straighten it out but I would not mess with as long as the current fix is holding up. Thanks for the tip might see if that helps.
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http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=337.0;attach=1099 (http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=337.0;attach=1099)
Hoping new back bars will keep from flexing. The rear spool bolts to a plate w/slots for chain adjusting. Last test the plate bowed up just a little, I have reinforced that now too. The spool even when torqued to 150lbs would slip, so now adj chain then tack weld spool in place. No more slipping.
That xr200 probable has a bent shift shaft fork on the inside of cover. Could probably straighten it out but I would not mess with as long as the current fix is holding up. Thanks for the tip might see if that helps.
It probably is. It happened after a crash up at Tampico, but I don't feel like splitting the cases.
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If you can Figure out whats wrong with the front A-arm/wheel then you can wear my dunce cap and sit in the corner! Come on 1st one wins!!!
Also notice the tie rod in 2nd pic, that was as best I could do to get her back.
P.S. the damn thing now will shift gears 4th is to fast for 1/2 mile driveway. :u
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I think the shock is leaned out to far. What you think, this pic is with me standing on it and the shock is not even clode to the "majic 90" to the lower a-arm.
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Looks like the tie rods are locking up and hitting the shock?
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You might want to get a little beefier tierods also. I dont think those will be the first to get bent unless you go bigger.
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I think the shock is leaned out to far. What you think, this pic is with me standing on it and the shock is not even clode to the "majic 90" to the lower a-arm.
Also keep in mind the the farther you move your lower mount in the more spring is required due to more leverage.
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Did it ever have more give than that? If your standing on it and thats all the farther down it goes the spring may be to strong for that setup.
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I was thinking to soft, but you guys are missing the real problem.
Look closer at pic, closer to wheel.
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you mean the negative King pin inclination?
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I think Bug wins! Are those on upside down from the quad they came off or????
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Looks like the spindles are upsidedown.....
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Spindles upside down and/or lower a-arm on top .
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I don't remember what spindle you got, But you have fallen into the ATV spindle trap...I been there and done that the pix are on the 600 woods buggy threadBest bet if you don't have the rack welded in is to flip them over...whack off the steering arm and re-weld it in the front now they will be upside down and on the wrong side...this will straighten out your KPI. and put you in front steer...AND YOU CAN ADD SOME ACKERMAN TOO ;D
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We have a winner!!
Had them set up correctly before, but somewhere along the way they swaped sides. Should just flip L-R and R-L and readjust the camber. 5:
Got the chain to 1 time when I really dropped the clutch, I think the front motor mounts are twisting letting the motor bow back and create some slack. Really hard to drive and watch the rear chain at same time. Coming up with a second mount to triangleate the front mount.
Gonna have to rebuild the carbs next too, 2 of them kepping leaking fuel out the overflow. Only paid $10, so I cant complain to much.
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Looking good. The buggy is really coming along. It wont be long now and all those late nights and weekend in the shop will pay off. There is nothing like riding around in something that you built youself. Just a few questions though. What size sprockets are you running? On my engine the stock sprockets were 14front and 44 rear. I fabricated everything to fit those sprockets...carrier mounts, rear frame assembly, engine mounts, etc...Then the first time I actually drove it with that gear ratio, I never got out of 1st gear. I was doing like 60mph. At take off I could hardly climb the driveway hill. I had to change to a 12front and 60 rear. Then had to change all my mounts, chain adjustments, and carrier location and re-weld. That might be something to check before you get to far along
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The front sprocket is the smallest I could find I think its 12 or 13. I think the rear is 52 maybe 54. Worked all weekend building scaffolding in a power plant boiler so my brain is still tired. Might try to finish the front end redo tonight if all goes well and I have enough beer. The "enough beer" could be the reason why the damn spindles are on the wrong side? gg:
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Hehe! ya think?
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The front end is now done, hopefully correct. The shocks have a much better ratio and are almost 90 at full compression. ;D New lower a-arm, rebent upper, cut off the bar that the upper shock mount attached to with the X brace between.
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Looking for input for more bracing?
Will try to paint my thoughts (scary) and post up latter.
Would like to X brace the back and roof, or maybe a upside down V on back and another V on roof to the front pillar.
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Any ideas anyone?
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Finally got a chance to paint, see if anyone is up from eating turkey.
I like the V on the back and roof, is one stronger than other??
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Looking good! I live the V myself, I really believe some on here are trying to build tanks not buggies, I think the tubing is a lot stronger than they think it is....
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Looking good! I live the V myself, I really believe some on here are trying to build tanks not buggies, I think the tubing is a lot stronger than they think it is....
Just wait till you start bending stuff up. Or what happens when you go on the lid. I would rather not test the strength of my tubing that way.
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Ok got sprocket mounted, which ment I had to move the motor, rear carrier, seats, steering wheel, bla bla bla. Now have a 55 custome rear (thanks to Ricks, member) and I think she will pull wheelies now. Also came up with a new chain adjuster, really just keep the damn carrier from moving from dropping the clutch. Hope all is well, probably not, but should have a good weekend to test.
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I am so dissapointed in everyone. Nobody mentioned tying in that motor mount. No offense intended, but that rear mount isn't doing shit. add some braceing to make the area where the engine and "spool" are a more solid unit.
Here is my thoughts on how to do it, you can do it however you want, but you need to do something...
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I did have the motor braced w/1 bar, and I agree it needs more. I like the two bars, think it would be stronger. I need some more flat stock as I wanted to make tabs for where it mount to the frame so it can be removed.
The braces for the spool are to keep it from being able to slide. Even when torqued to 150lb it would slide forward and allow the chain to slack.
This is why I like this site, people will chime in with and idea for a solution, instead of telling you your a stupid fook. Lots of trial and error mostly error, nothing takes the place of a good design to start with. That's my biggest complaint with the Panther design, too much left out for you to try to interpret.
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Ok bike all together and ready to go, but wait damn thing barly runs. Thought I had mixed up the wires to the coils as the are aftermarket ND coils. Mess with for 3 hrs check, recheck, double recheck and still the same. Wants to idle rough w/occasional sputter backfire in I think cyl 3 or 4. Thought boot loose>air leak, so sprayed some PB around to see if it would seal and I could find leak. Nothing. Funny thing, when I swap the wires going to coils for cyl 2 and 3 thing runs the same.
Problem is I can tell which wire going into these coils feeds which plug wire. It has no power when you drive, will barley climb up driveway it used to go up sideways throwing shit everywhere. Acts like its running on 3 cyl.
Any other ideas to check, I'm think wiring something loose cause it was running purdy before pulling the motor out to move it 4" forward.
Really wanted to give her a good riden tom, going to be 70!!!
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these bike motors.. the number 1 and 4 cylinders move the same and fire the same time.. and the 2 and 3 move and fire at the same time.. thats why swapping the 2 and 3 wires doesnt matter. try changing your spark plugs.. in both of my motorcycles they run crappy when they need new plugs. on my suzuki the number 3 carb leaks into the cylinder and causes it to fowl and it runs crappy and has no power and revs slow as hell.
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Finally got a chance to paint, see if anyone is up from eating turkey.
I like the V on the back and roof, is one stronger than other??
Carl,
I know it has been a while, and I don't know if you have finished your bracing, but here is my $.02. I like what you drew on the front, I just added one more bar up to the shock mount. All the tubes that hold the upper shock mount are in a single plane, and it would not hurt to brace that back down to the main frame.
On the bracing for the top and rear, I don't like the V because it braces to a dead or unimportant, non-strong point. You would be better with the X, or even a single brace cross brace does a lot of good. On the brace going down, depending on where your seats are, and the back of your head, I would brace down to the corner I have shown. If there is a chance of hitting your head on it I would move it back, but otherwise that is the strongest point on your frame, and the best point to brace to. The next joint back, that is covered by the radiator would be the next best place to hit with the bottom of the X brace. On your picture with the V brace, it is not good to brace to the middle of the down tube because it really doesn't accomplish much.
I agree with Boostin on the bracing to the rear carrier. A brace from the upper rear motor mount to right above your new adjuster attachment points should really help.
Hope you get it running better.
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hey carl. can you post the site.. or the info where you got the ball joints and whatnot for your front arms?
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1and 4 and 2 and 3 do no fire at the same time. One is firing, the other is exhausting. Both pistons are TDC though. If you can switch 2 and 3 and no difference, I'd say you have no power from 2 and 3. Take the caps off and it will most likely run the same, proving that you either have no spark, or a fuel problem.
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hey carl. can you post the site.. or the info where you got the ball joints and whatnot for your front arms?
Bought em at Advance Auto, just a lot of looking at what he had. Guy was real helpful and spent prob 1 hr w/me. Dont go when busy, they dont have time for bull. I'll see if they have a marking ##, but I'm sure I threw out the receipt in one of my cleanups.
I would probably use good heims with miss spacer if needed. I'm only get about18-20 degree movement. Threaded heim with bungs will give you ability to adjust wheel also. Gave about $40-$50 for a pair of em'.
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Will pick up set of plugs today. When I first started I noticed some unburned fuel from 2 & 3 exhaust port. Also had water ??? around the 3 & 4 spark plugs. Prbably came from draining or filling cooling system. That could have caused a misfire and fouled plugs too. Damn things are 4-5" down so hard to see, stupid overhead cam.
Was told motor was a 94 and wired the coils that was before, but noticed in mauel 2-3 were swaped in 87-90. Cant figure out year by serial ## by compairing to book, need to do some more internet work.
Did get all the bracing done, hopfully. Ran 2 tubes from top of rear motor mount back to frame and the rear seems solid now. ;D Couple diagonal in front V brace roof and X brace on back. Have to lower my seats down as not enough head clearance.
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Just a tip if you have a thermal gun or just try this as soon as you fire the motor. You can see if any of the exhaust tubes are cool. If a cylinder is not firing the exhaust tube will be signifagantly cooler. If you start the motor for a few seconds and shut it off you can tap each tube with your finger and see if any are still cool. Use caution with this redneck method, more of a stuck in the desert method. I prefer a thermal gun. You can just shoot at eack tube with the gun and see.
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shoot... that what i meant!!!!! they are at tdc at the same time.. i dont know what the heck i was thinking when i said they fired the same.. sorry for the wrong info!!!
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#3 exhaust you could touch after about 15 sec, the others no way in hell. Bought a set of NGK plugs but not put in yet, had to go out riden bicycles today, to pretty to sit around.
Anyway of checking motor ### for year??? Still concerned about coil wireing for 2&3.
ZX600AE095354
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ok well if you got the coil wiring screwed up then it would run shitty due to the wrong firing times. but... if you had them wrong, both exhausts would be cool, not just one. so you must have them right. either the plug is bad and fouling out. or you have a carb problem..
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Not a bad way to find a dead cylinder huh.
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Well after swaping out the plugs she screams to 11,000 rpm in 1 1/2 sec. jj:
Will try to snap some pics of the updated bracing for the cage and the rear end. Off to bed, to old to stay up late 2 nights in a row.
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Good goin'. I bet it felt good to hear that sucker scream.
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any updates carl? any new pics? i like your buggy.
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Had out on couple short runs and all is ok. Still a couple braces I'd like to move/add. And some side panels so the front tires dont beat the hell out of me.
My ignition switch may be bad, cause now when you cut it off it wants to continue to run although not well.
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so it may be "dieseling"??? add a toggle kill switch.. if it still does it.. then your getting hot spots in your cylinders and its running on..
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It may be running lean.. check the switch out first tho, you might need to rejet them carbs..
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Ok, after replacing head gasket on sisters Nissan (pain), rods in my John Deere (1 has broke again), I am playing with my baby again. The ignition is on a toggle switch and still having problem cutting off engine. I'm moving all my switches up to dash as right now they are by shifter and to easy to get wet and short. Still need to mount rear rotor/calliper so I have rear brakes. Got to move the V brace on roof to make an arch or something, keep hitting my head. Tall people should allow more room. Add some lights and mount the DTS flag somewhere safe on it too. Few more test drives to make sure no more welding, then paint. My little girl cant wait to paint it, although my uncle has a paint booth and he would do a better job.
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If the girl can do a decent job turn it over to her.You'll be glad you did AND so will she for years/decades to come.
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If the girl can do a decent job turn it over to her.You'll be glad you did AND so will she for years/decades to come.
yep yep yep.... worth its weight in gold.
I made a dining room table many year sago. My lil girl wanted to help so I set her up with a small orbital sander and she went to town on the legs.
To this day she still tells her friends about the day she helped dad build that table there in the dining room (and shes now almost 22) ..... you wouldnt be sorry....
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A few update after getting to scare the family at BBQ ;D ;D ;D.
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No package yesterday eh?
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Ah that sux, i thought for sure youd get it sat...
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Candice like the harness!! Thanks Bug.
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Good deal, like that red tag that closes the latch up, That is cool... I wish mine had that...
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Hiya Carl, harness looks good and Candice looks the part sitting in the drivers side.... 8)
This is my favourite harness style and in racing we added a stitched in velcro strip over the release lever to avoid accidentals. Rip then pull.... plenty quick enough... actually 'saved' me one time on rollover. Car flipped a couple of times then it went quiet so reached for the release and it all started again... was still in the air and I thought it was over.... licky.
One question, is this car destined fror sand only? If its going to do more, are you concerned aboput the rear sprocket hanging unprotected. Not a criticism, just an observation and curious. ;)
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Yea I like them very much. Now gotta figure out hoe to mount the one that go over the shoulders. Might have to run another tube, inside one are gonna be a biotch. Real close to the "over the motor exhaust". Got to move the seats again, then I will tackle the belts. Have the new roof line tacked up and I likey ;D forgot pics.
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Closest sand is 500 miles. Its for woods, trails, gas and power lines. Gonna build a gaurd outta some 1/4 angle, just on down the list.
Hey Bug, read something about some "decent" sand area in downtown Albany Ga.
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I just wanna add a KUDOS Carl...the submarine strap is on and being used...
Little ones often Sub in an impact
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Closest sand is 500 miles. Its for woods, trails, gas and power lines. Gonna build a gaurd outta some 1/4 angle, just on down the list.
Hey Bug, read something about some "decent" sand area in downtown Albany Ga.
Well probably have to goto church to ride there, Thats Like Church capital of Ga, there is a huge church there that actually produces Movies... That movie Fireproof was filmed there... Anyhow whatever, id check it out...
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http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=sands+dr,+albany,+ga&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=50.51141,114.257812&ie=UTF8&ll=31.56742,-84.128881&spn=0.013383,0.027895&t=h&z=16 (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=sands+dr,+albany,+ga&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=50.51141,114.257812&ie=UTF8&ll=31.56742,-84.128881&spn=0.013383,0.027895&t=h&z=16)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qnNwqWz304 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qnNwqWz304)
More like sand hills.
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No gates, no fees and no times, "Is it legal" "Not really, but the cops dont mess with ya" It looks like it is right in the center of town...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPwKg6bDOvI&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPwKg6bDOvI&feature=related)
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http://maps.yahoo.com/;_ylc=X3oDMTExNmIycG51BF9TAzI3MTYxNDkEc2VjA2ZwLWJ1dHRvbgRzbGsDbGluaw--#mvt=h&lat=32.636326&lon=-83.99778&zoom=15 (http://maps.yahoo.com/;_ylc=X3oDMTExNmIycG51BF9TAzI3MTYxNDkEc2VjA2ZwLWJ1dHRvbgRzbGsDbGluaw--#mvt=h&lat=32.636326&lon=-83.99778&zoom=15)
This is where I but all of my sand. They're closed on weekends! ;D
Might should just ask
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Got the buggy back running. Only had 7.5 volt to the coils?? Ran some new wire and everything is fine now. I'm thinking I had a bare spot leaking voltage somehow. Have some other projects out of way now so I'm back at buggy.
Picked up stole a piece of Al-clad 36"x120" $30. ;D It's 1/32 al then 1/16 plastic then 1/32 al. Tough, light, dent resistant. Gonna use for some body panels. Alum finish on one side and a protected shinny blue finish on other.
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got a buddy in the sign bussiness? i can get that too.. but its pricey.. never thought of using it..
note to self.. steal that idea.
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I was in the store getting some beer ;D they were building some crap and that piece was sitting there. Ask man at counter he said "what you give for it buddy, I said $30." He put $30 in pocket and I drug that thing out to my van, grinning.
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I just wanna add a KUDOS Carl...the submarine strap is on and being used...
Little ones often Sub in an impact
+1
+1I just wanna add a KUDOS Carl...the submarine strap is on and being used...
Little ones often Sub in an impact
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I just wanna add a KUDOS Carl...the submarine strap is on and being used...
Little ones often Sub in an impact
+1
+1
And while I may not always wear a helmet she WILL.
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Well it seems I ran out of stuff to work on so I got to play with buggy. Got seat belts mounted, new roof line, (have to move the one bar in red, body panels, and some lights.
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does this make mine a Chinese buggy?? :-\
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Well probably so but a high quality one. A rarity and you should be proud to have it! ;D ;D ;D
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And while I may not always wear a helmet she WILL.
Why not? You want her to lose her daddy early?
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Have a 2-3 good hrs and only problem is no recharging of battery. Think I have a wire from rectifier not going back to battery, little more wiring diagram studying will sort it out.
Made a hood scoop that slants up and wraps over instrument cluster that I want to make look seamless with the hood. Should I use just bondo, or go with fiberglass. Its aluminum, and while I have some fiberglass'n skills history, my bondo work looks better. I was more concerned with the flexing cracking the bondo.
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Few pics::
Bout ready for tear down and paint. Probably the "rattle can" w/clear coat. Cant show up to LS with bare metal, toooo many critics. ;D
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lookin' good! Sorry but at this point I'm not jumping into the bondo vs FG debate. Let's see what others think.
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gg: :t
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Cant believe it, no opinions ???. Going to go all politicall and try something right down the middle. Bondo-glass, basicaly bondo with fiberglass strands. Daughter still wants most of the buggy "lime green", not an easy find in rattle can. But thats what its gonna be, she's the BOSS> ;D
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I'd forget the bondo or glass. maybe cut the hood, stick the scoop up from the bottom and do a nice job keeping all the rivets in a straight line. You would have a nice clean seam, and if you didn't like that, you could always calk it with some seam sealer before paint.
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Thanks Boost for backing the wife's opinion. :P Gonna study it on Sunday, I found some bad ass carbon fiber pin stripe stuff to line the edges of panels with. No time on Sat, as I am moving my mom, all day process, volunteers??? ;D
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OK,fine,here's my opinion. Finish that hood out with bondo. Use mold release wax and wax the crap out of it. Four coats minimum.Lay on 2 layers 1.5 oz mat or 4 layers 3/4 oz mat as smoothly as possible.Sand off all big imperfections and then skim with bondo. Sand to perfection. Pull off of aluminum pattern. Paint. Part will be approx 1/8" thick if done properly.
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BTW,that's called moldless lay up construction.
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Carl,
Just showing up with a buggy to LS is a good thing...I doubt that it will get critiqued...If I bring a buggy at all...We'll have to see what the doc's say...it'll be my 750...with no paint...and prolly a gas can bungeed on somewhere ;D
Boost had a good point with thru the hood and keep the lines straight...IMO that gives it the mean...no frills look...I like that more than the seamless TAR BABY LOOK...
Being you use it in the woods as well...well I'd stay away from bondo...I'd prolly stay away from fiberglass as well just for the fact that trees like to jump out in front of me at speed :o
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Buggy looks good.....I have a question, "Where did you get the replacement springs from for the front shocks?"
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WHere's voodoo anyway? Out riding the buggy?
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where did that come from master? i wasnt even mentioned..?? still building motivation to mount thr harnesses..
carl-- i like the riveted idea more than seamless look. makes it look more "raw"
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I just saw you were online ,looking at this topic and hadn't seen any posts. Thought you were out having a ball since you got the buggy running. 8) Wouldn't blame you for that. bb: Now back to the topic. ;D ;D
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Buggy looks good.....I have a question, "Where did you get the replacement springs from for the front shocks?"
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Springs came from Livewire, Aftershock Motorsports. Would like to replace the rear ones too, they're still too soft.
Think I'm gonna rivet it bout every 2" and use some type of pin stripe tape along edges. This Al-clad has that black core that sticks out between the two sheets of aluminum. But its growing on me.
No buggy studying, took 30 hrs to get Mom moved. For a single lady, shes got tons of shit.
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A few pic to add, seatbelt mounts, and the chain gaurd.
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Air suction valves, do I need to run them to some kinda little filter, or can I plug them also. They are one way valve that let fresh air into the exhaust to aid in combustion of unurned fuel.
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Raised the roof a little as most buggies arn't built for tall people? Got the tail/brake lights hooked up too. Made another set of rear shock mounts to get a stiffer ratio. Just need it to stop raining so I can try out couple more times.
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Digging my buggy back post back from its grave. Lots of work, but had camera issues. So heres a taste....
It is the best looking rattl can paint job I have ever seen. Painted with truck bed liner, then a silver metal flake, then a transparent yellow, then a transparent green. The silver speck can be seen thru the yellow and green and the truck bed liner is damn near impossible to beat off. (tried).
Oh yeah just for those first timers I have 89 tabs. 89 freaking tabs, I have learned to make by hand.
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OMG ,Carl. Paint looks great!
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Ya Carl looks good ;D
Ya don't want to muddy that fooker up :-*
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It runs again!! Almost back together, really need to hurry leaving for LS in 1 day. Will try to snap a pic as I load tomm.
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I have 89 tabs. 89 freaking tabs
lmao, got a good laugh out of that one. GREAT looking buggy, nice thread on the build too. I have a 6 year old counting the days till we test drive ours here. Hope Candice likes playing co-pilot ;D
Great buggy, happy trails to ya
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I love the color dude!! ;D I'm looking forward to seeing it finished!