DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Member Project Logs => Topic started by: Voodoochikin04 on September 21, 2008, 12:21:03 AM
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well heres my build log. i started with the engine, and began to build. engine is a 1995 suzuki gsxf (katana) oil/air cooled 600cc's. front arms are from an older 250 honda quad. rear arms i built, using delrin bushings with chromoly tubes and crush sleeves. the axles are 1994 or 95, s-10 4wd front cv's with 6bolt mouting flange. hubs from the same vehicle. front shocks are from a late 70's kawasaki enduro. rears are possibly atv shocks? front wheels came with the honda quad, rear wheels also from some quad. brakes are 2 piston calipers from some honda, rotor is of unknown bike. seats i got from ebay, they are double wall mold formed poly with vinyl snap on covers. the rear hub brackets i made also. unsure about any of the length height or width measurements due to the fact that ive just never measured it. tube is 1. od x .120 wall mechanical round. frame rails are 1.5 x .120 wall square tube. *when i started this build i had no idea what tube to use, what things i would need. any buggy terms like bumpsteer. i was extreme amature. a ton of things have changed. when i started i used black pipe from menards (no idea) after being torn apart on the forums for that i quickly cut off and threw away all of that junk.* i think thats about it. im doing what i can with what i have and can afford so either like it or hate it. if you see something that is gonna cause it to not function, then please do tell. do not tell me its trash, or that im a scab or whatever else people like to say about un funded amatures :P thanks -Matt
from the very first picture taken over a year ago, to the present.
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entire rear end has been completely redone.
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now after a year break and tons of reading, this is what i started with again.
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then i realized how wide it was, time for total redesign.
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removable top rear motor mount
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the two bars in the back where the red is, are removable and look like the drawing below the picture. i flattened the ends in the press and drilled them. this way i can remove the bars and pull the engine from the top.
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i spent a whole night messing with this rack and pinion. only to be schooled by spec that its too long and the pivot points are in the wrong place and would cause tons of bumpteer. also it is for a rear steer setup and i have front.
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and now here is where im at. i got my wheels back from the machine shop where they were drilled to fit my s-10 hubs. i mounted the tires and put everything together. currently no lug nuts, so wheels are just sitting on the hubs.
here is where the shocks are mounted at their lightest postion. two top mounts and 3 bottom. one top is inboard the other is out board.
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here is the stiffest position. mounted on the middle bottom hole and the outboard top.
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VDC4,
looks like youv'e come a long way. Thanks for starting the log ;)
You have incorporated some good inovations multiple chock mounts that is a great way to be able to tune your non fox airs ;D
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That's using your head on making the shocks "tunable"!
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i dont know if you guys are joshin with me or not.. but i dont have the kind of funds to buy fox shocks. so i was able to buy these shocks, have no idea what they came off from. the machine shop guy who inspired me to build this, also has muliple shock mounts, so i figured i should probably do that too. also the shocks have 5 spring preload positions.. like i said.. do what you can with what ya got... :) tobad that rack wont work.. i wasted alot of time fooling with it.
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i dont know if you guys are joshin with me or not.. but i dont have the kind of funds to buy fox shocks. so i was able to buy these shocks, have no idea what they came off from. the machine shop guy who inspired me to build this, also has muliple shock mounts, so i figured i should probably do that too. also the shocks have 5 spring preload positions.. like i said.. do what you can with what ya got... :) tobad that rack wont work.. i wasted alot of time fooling with it.
They variable mounts are ideal for ground height mods...the rack wont work period? Does it have a lot of bumpsteer?
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no.. wont work period..not worth fussing with. it was free anyways.
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I wasn't joshing you at all.I was serious that the various mounting points will allow varying amounts of leverage and therefore will be adjustable as such. Good out of the box thinking!
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As for the wasted time on the rack,don't fret it.An education like that will never be forgotten! BTDT way too many times myself.
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Nope no joshing in the least...I do it on my buggies and use different spring rates...But I have many springs on hand from racing these for years, Even when I had the funds to buy the big airs I still used coil overs...Kinda a stick in the mud that way...IMO buggies should not break the bank...And not make you cry when you break it...cuz no funds to fix...I got a rack...I posted pix on that other site...I'll sell it to you cheap...I got a discount for buying several at one time...and sidelinesal said he'd whip up the extenders for cheap as well
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i know i was thinking about that rack of yours.. lol.. i need it to work for front steer as you know. my frame rails are 18 inches from outside to outside, and the arm bushings are about an inch.
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i used a buddies camera to take these tonite.. i fianlly let the rear end down to test the springs.. my lightest setting is way to light.. my stiffest is great.
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Man! Don't take this personal but your shop looks about as bad as mine! ;D WAAAAY too many things to build to organize the thing. :) Buggy's looking good BTW.
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its my dads shop. they stopped farming, and a brother in law and a farm helper who lived on the property died. so all of their stuff was packed into this shop. along with all my dads carpentry and wood working things. it was packed completley full. we cleaned it for about a week to get the area open enough for me to work on my buggy. just so much junk in there.
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also, am i gonna run into problems with the axle pivot being out so far from where the arms pivot? i think i may have a problem with the axles. they seem like they are over extended a little bit, like they are pulling out of the socket or whatever.
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The pivot is a concern of mine.Got some better pics of it though? I'd get those boots off of the cv's ,clean them well.put a little light oil on them and assemble the things without the boots.Then I'd check out their operation. Better to find out now if there's an issue than later.
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they look to short in the pics...
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they are all bolted in in those pics.. how do they look to short? like they are over extended?
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Looks like the axle is pulling the tripod out to far, the boot is all streched outward...
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I'd have to agree.That's why you need to at least get the boots off one of the axles to be able to see exactly what is happening.
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thats what i thought when i was looking at them. they looked like they were being pulled out to far. they are fine when they are straight, thats how i had them when i measured for my a arms. when they cycle down, such as at ride height, they seem to pull out quite a bit. my plan was to exten the axles an inch. i supposed this weekend ill pull the boots and check everything.
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As long as the tripod bearings are inside the cup, flush or what have you they will be fine, IMO, I would rebuild the a arms before i messed with axles, I think you will be far better off that way, now if you were talking 6" longer then yes make some, But not for an 1" IMO...
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so it would be better to just cut the arms where they meet the hub bracket and shorten them an inch, if need be. rather than the axles?. well im pretty sure they are pulled out to far because i can feel a ball shaped thing inside the boot. like its poking outside the cup..
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Imo I would make the stock axles fit the car, yes...Just IMO tho...
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Take a new picture of the center, maybe you could just move the cups outward a 1"? Looks like you have them bolted on right?
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Doing that is going to increase the amount of max misalignment .Do you have the extra degrees of misalignment available to do so?
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Extending the cups and /or shortening the arms will add further misalignment to the axle/cv.What is the max misalignment and how much will those cv's take,bug?
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the outer will go 45 degrees, the inner will to if it is setup right, the boots is a different story tho. I say extend the inners, and reduce the travel... ;D
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Will they run at 40-45 degrees for extended time?
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No, But the car shouldnt be set at max droop anyways...
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That's very true but will it be as set up?
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i cant realy move them out anymore otherwise it will cause interference with my shock mounts on my arms. ill just shorten my arms if it is nessacery
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I've been thinking on this since I first saw the picture...It looked like it was gonna bind or pull on the axles to me ???
VDC4, I know how you hate it when I get out the paint...But here goes anyway... I was thinking if you moved the mounting points for the arms and redid the top with a bend you'd still have to shorten the arms But keep your upper shock mount on the top without doing a complete redesign
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i cant extend those mounting points out like that. otherwise i wont be able to mount a sprocket or brake rotor. thats whay i made it the way it is. right now in order for the sprocket to line up, it will be extremely close to the edge of the rear end framing..
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I wondered about that tooMaybe plasma cut-outs for clearance?
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Ahhh,maybe?
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i think i got it figured out.. i moved the shocks to the outside top mount and outside lower mount.. dropped my ride height about 3 inches. not very much angle on the cv axles now.. at full droop there is about an inch less now. all i need to do is shorten the ends of the arms and ill be set... also put the springs on the lowest tension.
also, notice in the picture above the bottom arms are angled a bit.. now with moving the shocks and lowering the spring preload, the arms are pretty much straight across.. :)
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From ride height how much droop and bump travel will you have?
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just estimating from what i seen from messing with it for a few minutes.. from full droop to ride hieght is about 2 or 3 inches travel at the shocks. and they have about a 6 inch stroke. at full droop my shocks are at their end of course, and my cv's are just a little bit less than the maximum they can move. well on the mounting holes i have the shocks at now, at full droop its quite a bit less than the max. overall ride hieght at the rear with me sitting in it (barley drops when i sit in it) is about 7 inches. i hope all my terminology is right.
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ok i measured today. ride hieght with two people is 7 inches ground clearance. at full droop ground clearance is 9.5 inches. from full droop to ride height with two people the shocks travel 1.5 inches out of their 6 inches of travel. i think this is the info requested?
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heres some detailed pictures of some things. (not sure if its me, or this welder but sometimes it welds awesome and sometimes it doesnt wanna be consistent??)
this is how the shocks are set now. which lowers the rear.
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rear carrier
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rear upper motor mount
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i shortened my arms by 2 inches, everything seems to be ok now. here are some pics for ya guys.
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some updated pics. i have part of the floor in. i made my seat brackets, and started on the front end. also found a nifty little shifter thing.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1543.jpg&hash=fd1f56112f32450e888a674790c5f5aaf7e415e1)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1544.jpg&hash=4fbc79d797564a1aa42a13bf946e83ae23ab2381)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1545.jpg&hash=52bcfecd201a372054eb3f02ad944a93ff329e4a)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1548.jpg&hash=bb099311b8851d6848e6ee9eea8a876470b807b9)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1549.jpg&hash=58c94355adf5d92fbd05b87325867bb1018ad369)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1552.jpg&hash=7ba903d9134f64eb4c9928c1fa390331a0d2edb1)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1553.jpg&hash=191b91546e6b7d923082e14275602c5fe644a41b)
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VDC4 it looks like you are making alot of progress and it's looking good but there sure doesn't seem to be enough metal left on the wheels where the new bolt pattern was drilled. We drilled a set out like that once on a quad and it ripped the studs out of the wheel. Luckily no one got hurt. I like the multiple shock mounts buy the way. :)
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when i went to pick the wheels up, he told me that it will be fine. he said. "where are they gonna go?" i have them bolted down with flat washes and regular nuts. plus the hub has a pretty big surface. he said most likely if anything happens, side constant side load from driving crazy will eventually crack the wheel around the hub surface. guess we will find out. :) thanks for the comments.
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here are my gas and braek pedals that i made today at work. kinda goofy looking but oh well.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2F11-10-08_1938.jpg&hash=59ac0cf80bcd879f21e4cab0c5e6ac395c98a222)
and here is my best looking vertical down weld i have done.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2F11-10-08_0221.jpg&hash=79d2b546ee4a279eb2f00e66fed39a274b09f070)
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Are those pedals exact replicas of your feet?? ;D ;D ;D
Glad to see more progress.
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Not trying to burst you bubble but you will tear those keys out on your drivetrain, trust me I did it. Splines are the only way to go
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well im pretty sure i wont, my machine guy runs a heavier buggy, with more power, and beats the hell out of it and he has never sheared a key. he is giving me some tool bit key stock. said i wil crack and break my hubs or axle before the key shears.
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Looks like your welds are getting better ;D
PRACTICE ...PRACTICE PRACTICE
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I sheared two keys and a tig weld on my drive sprocket first trip.
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Mate for what its worth, IMO get your machine running, drive the crap out of it and break what breaks. This process is brilliant, reward and learning in one go.
Looking through your post Ive also seen stuf that I wouldnt do on mine. But you gotta do things your way and learn stuff your way. Mate great job so far, keep it up!
Guidance is great herebecause stuff that is safety related (like your wheel holes) is being brought to your attention, if you choose to do something about it well and god. If not its your neck. Your log is on a good site for that reason.
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here are my gas and braek pedals that i made today at work. kinda goofy looking but oh well.
If you can't have fun, what is the point?
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Great perspective on the site,Artie!
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when i went to pick the wheels up, he told me that it will be fine. he said. "where are they gonna go?" i have them bolted down with flat washes and regular nuts. plus the hub has a pretty big surface. he said most likely if anything happens, side constant side load from driving crazy will eventually crack the wheel around the hub surface. guess we will find out. :) thanks for the comments.
VDC4, I wasn't trying to pick apart anything but where the wheel will go if it rips loose is flying past you at a high rate of speed. If your haulin ass which it looks like your buggy will do, then it will tear up alot more than just a hub. The reason I'm saying is I've had it happen on a quad that got less traction(less force applied to the wheel) and alot less horsepower. BTY Those new pedals are bad assssss mm: hh: jj: jj: jj: jj: jj: Keep up the good work. I've only been working on mine for a few months and am frustrated to no end right now, but you have been working on yours alot longer and have had your ups and downs and posted them for us all to read. That definately keeps us newer guys like myself motivated and moving forward. Can't wait to see some new pics. ii:
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;D Did you base those pedals off of my wife's foot????? :m
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certainly looks like it Dentech, is that her go pedal or her whoa pedal in the pic?
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punk-- i know what your saying, and im also basing what im saying from his expierience and i put all my trust into his knowledge. i have known him since i was 15 and now im 23, not once has he been wrong with his descision making for me..lol. those hubs are massivly thick compared to others. my axle is 1"3/8. the tool bit key stock is extremely extrmely hard. but we will see...:)
about the wheels, i had a set of quad rims and took them there. he wouldnt drill them because they were not very thick at all. these rims i have now that are drilled were pretty darn thick, double the others. 5/16 i believe. again, i will monitor the wheels carfully. thank you for the look out!!! :)
artie- yea there are alot of things on my buggy i hate!!!!! the parts i hate where things i did when i first started it with no knowledge. :-X :-[ ha. but then the recent things i have done to it i love, so i really dont wanna tear it all apart to remove the ugly nastiness parts. oh well. IMO... its come along 1000 times better than the first picture i took of it. hahahaha.. thanks for all the comments guys!!!!!!!!
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you go dude, youre doin a great job
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ditto!!!
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ok let me make one thing clear. im not taking offense to anyones posts, just incase it appears that way. and im not ignoring anything either. i know the risk factors of certain things that have been pointed out and im taking the risks. if my keys shear off or my hubs break or my axle breaks, nobody needs to rub it in my face and say i told ya so, because i know its all a possibility. ok back on subject, i picked up my axle today, and also got these cobalt steel tool bit keystock. $10 for the keyways to be cut, and 5$ a piece for the keys.
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Nice pussy.
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I'm not making a call one way or the other about the wisdom of keys for your particular application but I will say that using tool steel stock for the key stock is a good idea IMO.
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and after doing a little more research, i could have just used carbon steel tool stock. it has the same properties as the high speed cobalt steel, untill high temperatures are introduced then the advantages of the cobalt come out. the specialty fab and machine place i got the bits from, the owner told me that what i'll most likely see is the keyways spreading out but about never breaking, "forever is a long time"
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Keyways can be strong but shaft strength is compromised compared to splines due to the root diameter of of the shaft being reduced more that splines require.
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I'm not saying your setup will or will not be adequate, just pointing out a principle that's good to know.
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yea but where am i gonna find slplined shaft and splined hubs? i would need a certain length axle, with about 3 inches on either side splined.. then i would need 4 splined hubs of the same length of the ones i have. and then make new mounting plates to weld to the hubs.. how much $ we talking bout?
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I say don't rework, run till it breaks. Then rework. At this point the goal is running and SAFE. While a keyed vs splined might be a very small safety issue, in my mind you would only be setting yourself back on the larger goal to make the change now.
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I pretty much agree. We don't KNOW if it's OK or not. If it holds up well you saved yourself a lot of rework and at least several $$. If it breaks you redo then.
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VDC4,
Wait till it breaks then fix it... Don't start second guessing your self now...It will discourage you ..But keep these things in mind for the next build ;D
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Definitely agree.
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I used keyway stuff too. Gonna go til I have a problem. Need to used threadlock on the little set screws they keep coming loose. Would probably use some spline stuff next time, but if it last a year or two going to be hard to second guess. Only running a 600cc too. ;D
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i think im finished with frame fabrication (other than front shock mounts). here are some pics from tonite. i finished the bracing in the front(except light mount bar) i also put a few braces in the rear.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1571copy.jpg&hash=5996d377ac6fabbd5d0262137e4ccecef427416d)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1575copy.jpg&hash=cc1765bd080ae250aff6ea6959cfba4a83c7bc81)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1576copy.jpg&hash=1b692ebb3b66b2fb0d80bfee2743f3a275df73d7)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1579copy.jpg&hash=74a2e2460d42cdb4f4789108d281decb84adbe2c)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1581copy.jpg&hash=11f55dfa6c410c278f25ca49e76d8abd638fbffb)
better picture of my removable top for removing the engine.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1582copy.jpg&hash=9417a7e6205480f3007b8cea8da087d189be68b5)
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i got bored at work the other night inbetween trailers, and made a small gauge pod. it can hold 2 gauges, a guage and some lights.. or whatever else i guess.. :) still need to make the top skin for it.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1584copy.jpg&hash=33e5f59ecd073f63cea0c93d3ff37b5af5e4d02b)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1585copy.jpg&hash=28bb35fc3b9463f4d2d35e2b03f993b7de8ca95a)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1586copy.jpg&hash=2d3164269bf1197df6dc493a1d0865e935e0280e)
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heres some pics from tonite. should i leave it how it is. (picture 1)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1587copy.jpg&hash=bc61fe4353a3e581e5a01cf33b96700b075102b2)
add a tube to raise the side a little. (picture 2)
(just flat stock to mimmic tube)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1589copy.jpg&hash=2bcfffa4758078841102ff00dde3c085932eb003)
or another roof tube (picture 3)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2FIMG_1590copy.jpg&hash=56ebc2b9723054de6534628f77635ebdd0c94af3)
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VDC4,
I think I'd leave the added tubes out, they will be head and arm bangers
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Leave out those bars.Put your energy into killing off dead tubes (killing dead tubes-kind of ironic,huh?).Where the windshield hoop connects to the lower chassis is a good example of what you DON"T want. Add 1 or better 2 tubes to complete the load path to the bottom chassis rail.
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Would an upside down "V" serve two purposes there? IE: Triangulate the cross section and distribute load to the bottom rail along two paths?
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Would an upside down "V" serve two purposes there? IE: Triangulate the cross section and distribute load to the bottom rail along two paths?
Yes
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ok ill add an upside down V to where the windshield hoop is, that will take care of that one and the little verticle support right in front of it.
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This is what I was thinking....
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This is what I was thinking....
Yep.
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here are pictures from the last time i worked on it. 11-23-08.. then thanksgiving hit, and the last few weekends have been spent with my gf so yea... i did find shocks.. i did not change anything about the front arms, although i would like to build a new front with dual A-arms, then just cut off the old and weld on the new. heres the pics..
i need some ideas for a bumper of some sort.
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also not sure if i posted this before or not. but here is a better veiw of my hub bracket for my chevy s-10 wheel hubs.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi117.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fo68%2Fvoodoochikin04%2F10-26-08_2218.jpg&hash=cc1705f83453dd0401e0a57e63916380295aff9b)
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Needs reinforcement IMO. The "ears" that are the upper and lower tabs are not good .Again just my opinion.
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they are 1/4...
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I understand but they will flex and be an issue(break) IMO.Need reinforced somehow right up to the bolt eyes.
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this is EXACTLY wat im doing but i have started with a Honda Odessey FL250 frame. your pictures have helped meALOT!!!
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Great work Voodoo, Looks like my kind of work. Keep up the updates and pics.
I haven't started yet but yours looks like what I'm wanting to do. I have an old 250 Odyssey as a platform for starter material ,along with a 400ex and a TRX 300 for parts donors. Can't wait to see the finished buggy.
All you other guys really know your stuff. I hope to pick up a lot of great info. for my project. Later
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finally an update. after all the struggling with those darned atv arms, i finally got a satisfactory result. through out its travel the closest the front wheels come to 90 degrees, is 85. thats the best i can do. here are some pictures.
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i seen everyone else had cool heim tensioners.. so i decided to make one.. not sure where ill use it.
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hehehehe. good to see you back at it.
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it feels so open on the sides.. here are 3 of my suggestions.. anyone have ideas?
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"new" wheel hubs... i redid them. this time with a jig to ensure they are straight.
"http://www.youtube.com/v/urpSA51RcwI&hl=en&fs=1&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999"
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recieved my tach that goes to my engine the other day.. 10$ from ebay.. 12$ shipping charge. pffft...
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Look'n good Voodoo! Also good to see someone else's garage is a freak'n mess like mine.. ;D ;D
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recieved my tach that goes to my engine the other day.. 10$ from ebay.. 12$ shipping charge. pffft...
LOL!! You mean 22 bux for the tach. I gotta laugh at people that say I PAID 10 bux for the tach and 12 for shipping. You aren't saying that ,I was just using it as an example. I had a customer about a month ago that asked the price of 2x4 8 foot long. I said 1.95. He said he could get them for 1.80 at another place 15 miles away.I thought I'd work a deal with him and asked how many he wanted.He says 3. I said 1.95 is a good price. He says "FOOK YOU "I'm not paying that. I asked what he thought a 15 mile one way trip costs. He says " I don't care,I'm not paying you 45 cents extra no matter what".I said " Have a nice trip". DUMBASS!!!!
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hahaha alot of people are like that!! hey, if you can get it 50 cents cheaper down there, then f-ing go there...... yea!!! 12$ shipping charge, wtf is that? tach weighs about 8 ounces.
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hahaha alot of people are like that!! hey, if you can get it 50 cents cheaper down there, then f-ing go there...... yea!!! 12$ shipping charge, wtf is that? tach weighs about 8 ounces.
Around here we call it screwing the pooch. ;D ;D
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"yabbit"...... every part he sells was the same shipping.. jerk...lol
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It's called screwing e-bay out of their cut. A lot of people do it. I always look at shipping before I bid. If it is worth the price with shipping I buy it. What I hate is paying $8 for shipping and getting an empty $3 shipping envelope with a hole in it.
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It's called screwing e-bay out of their cut. A lot of people do it. I always look at shipping before I bid. If it is worth the price with shipping I buy it. What I hate is paying $8 for shipping and getting an empty $3 shipping envelope with a hole in it.
Yep but it doesn't matter to the buyer,the tach(or whatever)still costs the buyer in this case 22 bux. To the buyer the total is all that matters.Ebay COULD stop getting screwed out of their cut if they wanted tho.
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yea it was worth the 22$.. will plug right in to my harness and i wont have to worry about it..
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close ups of my new rear arms.. i flattened the ends of the tubes, bent them, welded the ends shut and drilled my holes for the rear hubs to bolt to. i came up with it on my own, and was kinda worried maybe it was a bad idea. but then a few days ago i seen some newer artic cat a-arms that were made the exact same way. sorry for the poor quality photos.. my video camera kinda sucks for pictures.
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close ups of my new rear arms.. i flattened the ends of the tubes, bent them, welded the ends shut and drilled my holes for the rear hubs to bolt to. i came up with it on my own, and was kinda worried maybe it was a bad idea. but then a few days ago i seen some newer artic cat a-arms that were made the exact same way. sorry for the poor quality photos.. my video camera kinda sucks for pictures.
Ok I'll be the first to get smites here. IMO we are looking at some serious elongation problems here with the whole smashed tube with holes drilled in it thing. Going to be lots of wear there. Big safety factor to with the event of any cracking that mite happen. Talk about building in stress. You got it there. This is just IMO but?
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well it is about 1/4", the tubing wall is 1/8" thick, then welded around the openings. i dont see how its any different than a piece of plate with a hole.. if need be i can cut half inch pieces of solid stock and drill holes in them and weld to my arms..
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if need be i can cut half inch pieces of solid stock and drill holes in them and weld to my arms..
Is that how this guy got his start? :D
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.twistedsiblings.com%2Fgallery%2Falbums%2Frandom_pics%2FEdwardScissorhands_300x298.jpg&hash=4405f4cd2e56c59041db1d1a498e4fae4f7ff9d9)
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hahaha thats nice.. if they work on artic cats stuff, they will work on mine..
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hahaha thats nice.. if they work on artic cats stuff, they will work on mine..
Im not posative what your above posts means, But dont have to much faith in arctic cat stuff.... I own one, Not my best investment by any means...
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in my above post.. i said that i seen artic cat a-arms that did the same as mine..
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FWIW,I agree it's not the best way or the way I would have done it but will likely work fine for VDC.
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If it is pivoting on a bushing that runs thru the arm and not on the bolt it should be satifactory.
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there is no crush sleeve, but i left a small space between the arm mounts and the hub bracket, so i can use a nyloc nut and get it nice and tight without tightening down on the bushings. the bolt will be solid with the arm and pivot in the bushing.
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put it back on its own feet again today, after redoing the rear end. it feels real good now, actually when i let it down on its own weight it doesnt even budge the shocks..... my cousin said it looked like an old war cannon, so that explains the last two pics
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Now get in and drive!!!!!!
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my first shot at dimes.. continuous bead for most of it.. then tried a different method.
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i drilled out my steering arms to 1/2" and used 5/8 heims with high mis spacers.. measured for tie rods and made those. mounted rack, although it needs beefed up alot. it started with alot of bumpsteer, i finally got the rack lifted as high as it will go and the bumpsteer is so miniscule that it shouldnt make a difference.
i bought a length of 3/4 od dom tube for my steering shaft. it fits perfectly in my quick disconnect, but my 3/4 heims wont fit without a hefty treatment of emory cloth to the shaft... whats the deal here? also, how are you guys attatching your steering u-joints? just welding everything? i would think they might need to be disassembled at some point.
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Mate looks like its coming along very nicely. Just a thought (and it may not be a good one, so feel free to ignore :)), the heim joints and the misalignment spacers now on the steering knuckle. This is in single shear and obviously was when it was in the donor vehicle, but now with the spacers and heims added its lifted the pivot point very high. This IMO, will increase the leverage on the mount. Is the bolt a tight fit in the hole and if not can you make it so? If it can move/flex at all, with the increased leverage it likely will do so.
I Understand why you have used the components you have and again IMO you will end up with a fine ride for comparatively little dollars, but, its best to fix these things while you are in the assy stage rather than have it ruin your day out on the tracks....
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the prior hole size was like 3/8".... i drilled it to 1/2" the bolt fits in snuggly and then tightened down, it is secure. i feel it will be fine, but then i dont have real world experience with this stuff.... :-[
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Well then, suck it and see! Glad you are enjoying the build. Ive been so busy mine has hardly progressed at all the last few months. :-[ :-\
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for the columns ans u-joints I purchase 3/4" DOM tube with a 48 spline cut on the ends and use mating unis. Pricey but the best way IMO. For the use of rod ends for the column bearings I know that you can buy oversized end for this aplication. I use the tight ones myself and stay awayfrom them. You want the race to spin in the rod end, not the shaft to spin in the race bore.
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Well then, suck it and see! Glad you are enjoying the build. Ive been so busy mine has hardly progressed at all the last few months. :-[ :-\
Yeah I haven't seen diddley in the way of a photo, but I guess I wouldn't if you haven't been working on it now would I, so I guess what I'm say'n is PULL YA FINGER OUT!!!
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i made some progress. i tried using two u-joints and i just couldnt get it right. so i just used the one that attatches to the rack. it feels ok......... :-X
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That's a nice shishkabob in the works ya got there. Yup.
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and thats supposed to imply what?????
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the solid straight steering column is what he is refering to.
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The steering shaft with no second uni will come straight back to you when you hit 'that' tree and turn you into a shishkabob... thats why we use the second uni..... allows the steering colomn to collapse onto itself...
Id rework it ifn I was you but it is your machine... and your sternum and lungs... 8)
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Don't worry about it.Most columns are not made to collapse in an accident and it is very unlikely that you'd ever smash a small buggy bad enough to impale yourself on it anyway if you are properly belted in. I mean how many small buggies after a crash has anyone seen crumpled up from a head on crash? I've never seen one that pushed the column back. For that matter most columns won't collapse wit 2 joints in them anyway due to them binding up. The only effective and reliable collapsible column is a double d steering shaft..
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I certainly agree.. but I would hate to be standing by the graveside feeling guilty cause I didnt point it out... 8)
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but I would STILL make it with 2 unis....
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Honestly i have yet to see a "home made" buggy hit a tree, the results could be , well who knows...
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One more, same race meeting......
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi293.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fmm54%2Fartieonedge%2FTree3.jpg&hash=a74d022dcdbd08539f1f037b0756fd3b155d8e49)
And the Culprit!
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi293.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fmm54%2Fartieonedge%2FCulprit.jpg&hash=f8f06fe3b25016e5b5ea1cea594cdfd47019ff33)
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Just about everything I have ever built, drove ,owned has had a meet up with a tree ;D
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But the steering column barely moved.See??????? That's my point.
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Seriously guys,if we're going to give the correct advice it would be to use doubled slip shaft for the column. We do all know what double d slip shaft is don't we? If not I'll look up a link.
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I've never been impaled...Obviously since I'm still talking stoopid...But the point IS VALID...
i put a locking clamp on mine behing something sturdy like the dashbar to help it not to move, Plus a tack welded collar/sleeve lower in the column, there is no impact testing...I just gues at the power it would take to break it...I KNOW THERE IS BETTER WAYS TO DO IT...But that is a cheap breaking point
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its no problem to slice the shaft and put another uni in it.. will just ahve to wait untill money is sufficient.. unless someone wants to donate, or do some trading..
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got part of mty shift linkage done. i thought i needed to bend the rod to clear my oil lines.. but after bending the rod and getting it all put on, i realized it would hav cleared, and i could move the oil line too.. it shifts great though.. i made my pivots with some tube pieces and some delrin in them. with a 3/8 bolt welded to the bottom, and screwed to my floor. i got my chain straight too.
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shifter is done, i have 5 adjustment holes on shifter.. and on the "z" bar i made a bolt on arm so i have 3 adjustment holes there. it is not on, in the pics.
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i got some stuff done today after a long time off.. i found the longest clutch cable i could locally find. had to thread the end of the conduit and then rethread the clutch rod cover to accept it.. decided on hand clutch now.. (was foot clutch).. mounted my master cylinder, and got brake pedal done and hooked up. also made two more cage tubes along the side, that are about halfway up my arm in height (while sitting). still need to brace it all in. also some pics of my gas tank mounts from earlier this month. the front one is removable..
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Go Voodoo, ya gett'n there mate, wont be long you'll be out n about in it have'n FUN!! ;) Oh yeah & it's look'n good too! ;) ;)
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Yup your right ......
You'll need a CBR 8)
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i want the cbr.....
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i got my chain tensioner done. its simple, easy to remove, replace the roller, and adjust, it also utilizes the existing rear engine mount bolt. it doesnt change the direction of the chain adversly either. also got my gas pedal done. the springs i made myself from really stiff stainless welding wire.
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got my headers made tonight. i routed two pipes out the passenger side, and two out the driver side. so now im clear on the bottom, and dont have to worry about my exhaust getting slammed by a rock or stump.
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soo.. im surprised i didnt get any responses about my tensioner? figured there would be someone saying it wont work.. :P did i piss people off??
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Not me :P
I'm going to wait and see if it works...Does the umhw have a bearing in it? I have found that if you just have a bolt going thru it the center hole wears quickly, but if it has a bearing it should last forever, providing you don't squash it with chain pressure
I have used them as a slider in sheet form i n the past to stabilize the chain and protect the caliper in case of chain derailment/failure
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Should kinda sorta maybe work for a while I guess. ;D
Is it a delrin type material.
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it is delrin. on a 1/2" bolt.. i made a tensioner in the same fashion for my dads manuer spreader, running a 60 series chain at like 5000rpms, and the delrin roller has hardly any wear marks on it.. plus if mine wears out quickly its super cheap to replace. i can always stuff a bearing on that bolt... does livewire never come online? i need brake lines badly..
also--- anyone have an ideas for mufflers? i need to run duals, but dont wanna use the stock mufflers because they seem so restrictive.. ideas???
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here are the pics of my headers i put together.. originally they had an H pipe connection, i cant have that now.. is that gonna rob me of power?
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Yes but don't worry yourself about it.
here are the pics of my headers i put together.. originally they had an H pipe connection, i cant have that now.. is that gonna rob me of power?
Yes but don't worry about it.
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dont worry about it? like seriously.. or are ya messin with me? lol.. is it negligable???? also, next step is to extend oil cooler lines... what should i use? does rubber fuel line stand up to the high temp oil?
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The crossover helps low speed torque . it would be best to keep it as original but not IMO enough difference to remake them now. Why don't you ask questions BEFORE you do something? .
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The crossover helps low speed torque . it would be best to keep it as original but not IMO enough difference to remake them now. Why don't you ask questions BEFORE you do something? .
plus 1 on both counts.. (is that plus 2??)
Vood, we may be smartarses from time to time but we genuinely want to help.... we cant if you dont ask. :police:
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VooDoo - these guys are getting old. (I am too, that's why I ask first, then do.)
I admire that you will try first - then rework if need be. You are learning more than you know. And, I sense you might be more of a hands on type learner rather than a theory learner.... Nothing wrong with that at all. The only downside is that feedback can come across as "negative" after you have already worked it through to the best of your abilities.
Whereas suggestions before it is built sometimes flow more freely and you may be more receptive to them.....
I know they would stop you if it was a real issue. It was not too many decades ago that Mastr was doing it the same way....
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im not gonna re work it.. was just curious about the crossover.. if you could stand here and look at my buggy, with the exhaust going the normal route under the engine, that would have put it the lowest part of the buggy. didnt wanna risk crushing my exhaust. :) now about these oil cooler lines.
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VooDoo - these guys are getting old. (I am too, that's why I ask first, then do.)
I admire that you will try first - then rework if need be. You are learning more than you know. And, I sense you might be more of a hands on type learner rather than a theory learner.... Nothing wrong with that at all. The only downside is that feedback can come across as "negative" after you have already worked it through to the best of your abilities.
Whereas suggestions before it is built sometimes flow more freely and you may be more receptive to them.....
I know they would stop you if it was a real issue. It was not too many decades ago that Mastr was doing it the same way....
Hell it was yesterday!!!LOL!!! I read somewhere that the person with the biggest failure pile was the guy that also comes up with the best ideas. I wasn't meaning to rag on VDC at all. Hell ,I admire his will to do. Yummi ,you have a good point-we WOULD tell him if it was a "fatal" mistake. As a suggestion tho I would have routed the exhaust out one side or the other and kept it a 4-2-1 0R 4 into 1 arrangement.Another thing that is not addressed the way they are now is the fact that the exhaust may sound radically different than it did on the bike . Also I didn't pay attention but you may have them out of order. What is the firing order of the engine? The tubes running into a common muffler SHOULD be 180 degrees apart in the firing order.
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they are still the same way they were on the bike.. just cut and rotated the tubes.. it was 4 into 2 into dual mufflers.. will be the exact same way as stock just little 4 inch cross tube...
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Ahhhh,I did not see the crossover tube.
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Hmmmm,still don't see it. Got better pics?
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oops.. i mean "just no little 4 inch cross over tube." sorry about that.. the tubes are still the same placement they were before.. just routed them out the side.. and dismissed the crossover tube..
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OK, then I THINK you will be out of phase.What is the firing order? the tubes exiting the car on say the left side of the car should be 180 degrees apart in the firing order. Same goes for the right side also,of course.
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then it was out of phase from the factory, because all i changed was the direction... i kept the same tubes, in the same collectors they were in, just made them point further out to the side then they were.. everything is routed same as stock.. just out further.. the cross over was not in the exhaust untill after the collectors....
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Thats not the point.The stock ex ,I assume ,was a 4 into 2 into 1 arrangement . Correct? And now they're a 2 into 1 on both sides without a common collector tying both sides together.Correct?
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Disregard the crossover tube for now. Not an issue at all for all practical purposes for now.
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Thats not the point.The stock ex ,I assume ,was a 4 into 2 into 1 arrangement . Correct? And now they're a 2 into 1 on both sides without a common collector tying both sides together.Correct?
they are still the same way they were on the bike.. just cut and rotated the tubes.. it was 4 into 2 into dual mufflers.. will be the exact same way as stock just little 4 inch cross tube...
Sounds like it is the same as was on the bike.
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no master... it had dual mufflers... 4 into 2... each side had a muffler.. but right after the collectors on each side was a little cross tube..lol the picture is the same as mine were stock.. tubes are in same spot, just rotated to the side.. i just exluded that cross tube.
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All it does is balance the pressure between all 4 cylinders. If you can easily incorporate it back into the system, I would....if not....like was said...it'll be fine.
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no master... it had dual mufflers... 4 into 2... each side had a muffler.. but right after the collectors on each side was a little cross tube..lol the picture is the same as mine were stock.. tubes are in same spot, just rotated to the side.. i just exluded that cross tube.
cool,good to go then. The little crossover just aids in lowering and broadening to Tq. curve. Don't worry about it.
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Hell you won't be running at lower rpm's anyway! LOL!!!!
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ok now that, that it settled..lol.. i bought some rubber transmission oil cooler hose 3/8th diameter.. cut my oil cooler tubes and extended them with the hose up to my oil cooler.. where i have it mounted is only 8 inches high and about 2.7ft back from its original location. next im going to the exhaust shop with a piece of my bike exhaust. also taking along a "form" that i bent to show how i need my sections of exhaust bent.. about a 2.5 ft piece of 2.25" tube with two 115 degree bends and offset about 10 degrees. should be cheap.. ill also have them expand the new tube so my current fits snuggly into it.
i also ordered my gas gauge and it arrived 2 days later. 17$ shipped. im lucky that my bike has an F to E gauge, about 2.5 inch gauge. plugs right into my harness. i made a mount for that also.
question... should i keep the stock mufflers as is? gut them? shorten them? i have no clue..
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i thought livewires quote was kinda high.. untill i got a local quote for almost 500$ for the brake lines i needed.. piss on that.. i went to a local guy that has a shop full of parted out bikes.. i managed to find a few junctions, and some long moto brake lines.. i got my brake lines figured out and run.. so thats a major plus.. cost me a whole 10$.. yehaa!!!
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sooo.. i decided to use a lawn and garden battery.. since they are bigger than a moto battery but smaller than a car battery. it mounted perfectly on the rear axle frame rails. i made a box type holder with threaded rods on either side and a diamond plate top for it. also braced my steering heim holder in a bit.
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finally got all my wires ran!!! got em wrapped in wire loom stuff. clipped and zip tied up. headlights, dash lights, tach light, tach, fuel gauge, nuetral indicator, oil pressure warning light, igniton switch, light switch, kill switch, tail light/brake light....... all good.. decided to fill the oil cooler, and some gas in the tank.... primed the carbs, hit the starter button and cranked forever.. only number 2 & 3 cylinders were firing. no spark from the other coil running 1 and 4. finally traced it back to the power wire to the coil, the splice connector i had put on it wasnt fully clipped... so i clipped it all the way and hit the starter button.. it fired right up!!!! no mufflers, it was so loud.. definetly needs carbs cleaned. so that was my excitment for the night!
btw- i completely redid the wiring harness compared to how it was stock. it was a pain in the rear. gooey stickey mess!
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Way ta go Voodoo, wont be long till we see some video footage of you tear'n it up huh?
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Voods, what is a splice connector? It sounds like a thing we call a scotch lock, you prolly do to (see pic)... a thing used for adding trailer wiring to cars (and even then not suitable IMO). Soldering is a far better way to go.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi293.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fmm54%2Fartieonedge%2Fscotch.jpg&hash=5ba5d2ee0ac78f54ae4d28732cc8605f8fe0b946)
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it was the only one i used.. i had forgot to run a wire and i had stuff wrapped up.. so i used one and it bit me for 20 minutes..lol
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Yeah,that happens. FWIW ,I will NEVER use a skotchlock unless it is an emergency.
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I used one too, ::) but once its running you can go back cleanup any unused wires, make better conections.
Man what a great sound to here it run, huh??
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open headers at 12k rpms... ears still ringing. i removed everything i didnt need already.. gonna take it for a test drive around the yard tonight.. ill try to get video
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Test drive+neighbors+tonight=blue lights!!! Cant wait to see the video.
CONGRATS ON MAKING IT RUN!!
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out in the country, no neighbors, we own all the land around the farm.
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took it out for a drive last night.. took a few tries to get used to the clutch. i drove a few circles around the yard, then took it out on the road and opened it up full throttle through all the gears.. got about 20 minutes total ride time. two things broke. my master cylinder mounts were only tacked. i forgot to fully weld them and that broke when i mashed the brakes. fixed now.. then my chain tensioner nut came off and i lost one of my high mis spacers on it.. no more of those so i need to buy one set . fixed that by slapping on a washer and nyloc nut. then ripped up the gravel for a little while longer.. it drove straight!!! i could let off the wheel and it just crusied smoothly. rough terrain is smooth too.. suspension feels great. steers excellent!!!! had great power but low down is a little sluggish. i ran for 5 miles at about 60mph and the chain did not get hot, i could grab it easily. i lost two set screws on my axles hubs. i drove in the dark and the lights are bright as hell and put out a great beam. my wiring looks superb!!! al wrapped in loom plastic and clipped and tucked out of the way. i do need to move my shift lever rod down lower on my shifter to give a bigger throw... i have 18 minutes of excellent video.. just gotta find time to get in on the computer.
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We're really glad for you Voo! Great to hear!
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Thats more drive time than my 1st outing.. this calls for a celebration, its 5min til 5!!!
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Congratulations!
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SOB must be out riding the thing instead of posting info! Lucky fook. 8) ;D ;D
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SOB must be out riding the thing instead of posting info! Lucky fook. 8) ;D ;D
Master get out in the shop and get to work on the buggy. Don't make me get the tow rop out.
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LOL!!!!.Got the drivers side plug roughed in today .should have all body panels done soon. Just need off my ass and back onto the busa/091 adapter. I sure as HELL DO NOT WANT you towing me around! ;D ;D
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Damn Chicken I'm proud of you ;D
Nothing like that 1st ride jj: mm:
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I'm betting he's STILL driving around the mile section. Only stopped to refuel so far.LOL!!!!
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took it out last night... ripped it up on the washed out minimum maitnance roads... nothing broke.. handled real well!!!! i cannot find the driver for my camera so i cant load the video yet.
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drove it all day today.. and night.. put on over 60 miles.. of mostly full throttle action. i went through two delrin bushings on my chain tensioner. finally i stuck a bearing in there.. was still fine after driving 26 miles at full speed... then i parked it for the night.
i have a stock front sprocket like a 14 or 15 i think.. and a 55 rear sprocket. in fisrt and 2nd gear it is kinda luggish untill about 7,000rpms then it rips.. 5th gear is on the edge of holding power at full speed.. shift to 6th and it slowly slows down... sooo do i need a bigger rear sprocket to get more low end and hopefully get more use out of my 6th gear? or is my motor just lacking power?
hopefully tomorrow ill get the video transfered over.
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onya mate!
It could just be a tuning issue. Have you modded the intake or the exhaust. What motor is it again? What's the rear wheel diameter?
Congratz!
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here is a little better quality video than before.. same scene
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WHERE ARE THE SEATBELTS!?!?!?! :police: Looks like a blast, man! Now I gotta get back into mine and get it done ;D
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here is a short crappy quality video
Dude where is your seat belts? That is a Big NO NO driving with out them. I would hate to see you and the wifey scattered all over the road. Get them in before you take it out again.
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i took it out all morning... im sitting here covered in mud from head to toe.. yes i know i need seat belts.. i have been wearing a helmet.. im taking the risk of not having seatbelts right now i know.. just waiting for money to buy them.
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i took it out all morning... im sitting here covered in mud from head to toe.. yes i know i need seat belts.. i have been wearing a helmet.. im taking the risk of not having seatbelts right now i know.. just waiting for money to buy them.
I don't see no brain bucket in the last vid. Or on your better half. Dude you get belt's in that thing before you take it out again. I had a hard time just finishing watching your vid when I seen there was no belts in it. I have rolled car's in my back ten just out for a quick tune up. Had I not had my belts on I would not be here today to talk about it. Or to bitch at you about it.
Get Belts
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I don't see no brain bucket in the last vid. Or on your better half. Dude you get belt's in that thing before you take it out again. I had a hard time just finishing watching your vid when I seen there was no belts in it. I have rolled car's in my back ten just out for a quick tune up. Had I not had my belts on I would not be here today to talk about it. Or to bitch at you about it.
Get Belts
Yup yup yup......at the price I have seen a set of belts offered to you i have trouble with your reasoning.....
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i took it out all morning... im sitting here covered in mud from head to toe.. yes i know i need seat belts.. i have been wearing a helmet.. im taking the risk of not having seatbelts right now i know.. just waiting for money to buy them.
Waiting for money to buy seat belts and arm restraints or a coffin? Get with the program dude.Get belts before it's too late.
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"Yeap... it bit me very hard. No seat belt or halmet. Done it at work in the drive way... took out the gate post. Was flat out in 2nd gear, drove through a damp spot and it was all over from there. Spent the day in hospital and have a nice scare to remind me."
Quote from a mate who races and should know better. He has quite bad bruising and about 18 (I think) stitches to put him back together...... This is a Busa powered machine and very fast. ::)
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just waiting for money to buy them.
Why?
my income is greater than my expenses... meaning after paying all my bills every month i still have money left over!!!..
??? ??? ???
i like my caddy though.....lol..
Oh, now I get it....
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he's gotcha there voo.
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he's gotcha there voo.
yes he has...I did think that, but didnt post in the interests of harmony..... ahh to hell with THAT!
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Safety comes before harmony.
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Safety comes before harmony.
amen... and that concludes todays sermon.... cakes and tea at Mrs Fabrs house straight after the service and a working bee at the........ seriously... I could not agree more.
We've had this conversation before and one of us (I cant remember who) said it was normal to do a quick run every now and then without belts or helmets... I say its not. Apart from loading the car on and off the trailer, anyone who was in it always was kitted up, no exceptions. Mars is the same now as well, pity he had to get injured to learn that lesson though.
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no he doesnt have anything!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i dont have 100$ laying around at the moment, that doesnt contradict anything i have said.. so aint nobody fxxking got me!!! ill get belts when i have the money to get belts.
Edited by fabr.
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Do you really want me to respond to that? Ok, I will.
I sincerely believe you lack certain abilities.....Like thinking things through.
It is one thing to be dumb enough to go for a test drive without safety gear, everybody has done it at some point, even myself.
It requires an immense amount of stupidity to....
Risk the life of someone else on said test drive.
Get lots of video of you risking BOTH of your lives.
And to top it all off....Posting said video of said test drive for all those that previously cautioned you about wearing said safety gear.
Edited by fabr. C'mon ,no name calling PLEASE.
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Calm down guys, I guess it IS his privelege and his passengers likewise to be unsafe. Not my idea of a good idea but I'M NOT getting in anyones buggy without 5 points. Period.
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Oh C'mon, I was VERY careful with my wording so that you could not accuse me of name calling. You went and did it anyway....
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This shit can and does happen
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Although I totally agree with the safety sentiment expressed here, I suspect Voodoo knew it and was merely overcome by the all too familiar (at least to me) want - no, need - to get in it after all that time and give it a bit of a fang. I'm confident he'll get the belts and lid together in short order.
Keep up the good work.
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I have a point that goes back to the previous issue about health systems. We pay a Medicare Levy here of 1.5% of our gross income per annum. If you are a high income earner its 2.5%. Thats how we fund our 'reasonable' but not brilliant health system, Insurance is an option but costly.
Therefore if someone decides to ...say... ride their Ducati WITHOUT a helmet and gets severely injured (say brain dead), MY levy (my TAX) is going to suppport that person for the time that they live even though their condition is a result of THEIR choice.....
SO here in Aus I would protest loudly about someone doing what Voods has done UNLESS they possess insurance...
But I am not....... 1/ a US citizen and 2/ in the US 3/ in possession of all the facts.
And for what its worth, if I had just gotten my beasty going after so much work a nd time ID WANT TO DRIVE IT! (I just wouldnt advertise it......)
And as a post note.... ive done it too when about Voods age.....
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and when you wake up, you'll all have this lil pearl of wisdom.......HOW TO SWEAR AT PEOPLE - 101 (without actually doing it...)
Example....
Artie ..... "Fabr, I cant call you an arsehole on this forum can I?"
Fabr ....... "No Artie you cant call me an arsehole on this forum"
Artie........ "But i can THINK you are an arsehole cant I?"
Fabr......"Yes I suppose you can think I am an arsehole"
Artie...... "OK, Fabr, I think you are an arsehole!"
See? I didnt call Fabr an arsehole, yet Im sure had this been a real situation (no no its not..... ::)) that he would get the picture.... subtlety boys subtlety.....
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And as a post note.... ive done it too when about Voods age.....
I was about my age :o
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I was about my age :o
uhmmmm.. thats my point..... will you learn from this? Nah...yer an aussie.... remember? We cant be told anything...I heard that recently somewhere...oh thats right...on this forum....lol.....
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uhmmmm.. thats my point..... will you learn from this? Nah...yer an aussie.... remember? We cant be told anything...I heard that recently somewhere...oh thats right...on this forum....lol.....
Now THAT I agree with...................... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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and when you wake up, you'll all have this lil pearl of wisdom.......HOW TO SWEAR AT PEOPLE - 101 (without actually doing it...)
Example....
Artie ..... "Fabr, I cant call you an arsehole on this forum can I?"
Fabr ....... "No Artie you cant call me an arsehole on this forum"
Artie........ "But i can THINK you are an arsehole cant I?"
Fabr......"Yes I suppose you can think I am an arsehole"
Artie...... "OK, Fabr, I think you are an arsehole!"
See? I didnt call Fabr an arsehole, yet Im sure had this been a real situation (no no its not..... ::)) that he would get the picture.... subtlety boys subtlety.....
Naaaa,boost tried that yesterday. 8) ;D ;D
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BTW,it only takes a split second for disaster to happen. There's no excuse for not having and using safety equipment. Bad enough not having a helmet but no belts? C'mon. No excuse.
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Allright...
Chiken kinda screwed the pooch on no harness... another member just posted a vid not wearing a harness...
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Another NO NO? Who?really guys we cannot stress the importance of safety too much.If it offends you I'm truly sorry but USE SAFETY EQUIPMENT!
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yea i know the importance of them... but the urge to take it out and thrash it was over powering after so long, and this being my first build of this sort.. i could not resist.. the end of the month is bill time.. so i dont have the extra kind of money for belts.. come next month.. yea.. in the mean time i wont be driving it. now if boost could f-ing grow up instead of being a child and spending life going through old posts to copy and paste stupid shit.. then this place would be better.
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Sounds like a good plan. As for boost-well what can I say besides he must really like you to spend so much time fooking with you.You know,sort of like you and Spec-were-are-whatever. 8) You know what I mean. ;D At least i edit his calling you those endearing names. ;) ;D Really glad to see you get it running tho as I think there were some that thought it would never happen. CONGRATULATIONS for proving them wrong. You can be proud of that fact. Now ,stay the hell out of it till you get belts and I would prefer seeing arm restraints also. ;) Just saying..........
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At least i edit his calling you those endearing names.
Yup, you're so on top of it that you censor edit my post even when I don't call him names.
Just to show how nice of a guy I am, and that there are no hard feelings. I'm gonna make an offer to help you out Voo. I don't have any new belts or extra helmets laying around, but I will offer you 4 high quality ratchet straps (like truckers use, not the cheapies) and two paper bags. One for you, and one for the missus. All for free, you pay shipping. If you play nice, I may even throw in some packing peanuts to assist those paper bags in protecting your melon.
This is a limited time offer....
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Hell, I had to laugh at that. Crap VDC, take him up on the offer and get those straps! bb: ;) ;D
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Yup, you're so on top of it that you censor edit my post even when I don't call him names.
Just to show how nice of a guy I am, and that there are no hard feelings. I'm gonna make an offer to help you out Voo. I don't have any new belts or extra helmets laying around, but I will offer you 4 high quality ratchet straps (like truckers use, not the cheapies) and two paper bags. One for you, and one for the missus. All for free, you pay shipping. If you play nice, I may even throw in some packing peanuts to assist those paper bags in protecting your melon.
This is a limited time offer....
Maybe not directly but it was pretty damn close to it! mm: :m
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boost!!! wtf is your deal?
Sorry chicken...had to censor that...boost knock it off
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here are some more pictures
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You stole my idea for the gas tank! I like it...makes it look kinda like a boat motor (my wife says!)
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Throw a prop on it and get Master to make you up a hull and you got yourself a kick @$$ Anfib.
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Crap VDC, take him up on the offer and get those straps!
Too late. The offer has expired due to the receipt of a touching, yet uncreative PM from Voo.
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thanks anyway boost.
not sure if it is normal to have a horn, but i put one on tonight. sounds like the roadrunner, from the cartoon.
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So as usual I'm late to this one, where is the VIDEO??? and all the talk about safety equipment ::) shit I did it, not put the belt on or a helmet, but then again I couldn't get a helmet on when I got in the bloody thing.. Don't worry Voodoo Master will be around shortly ta give ya thirty lashes across the doodle with a boot lase. :-\ :o ;D
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master better not come near my doodle.
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Don't worry ,I'm NOT touching it!!!LOL!!
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HE HE HE HE HEHEHEHHEHEHEHE
BBBBBWWWWAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAH
You guys are some SICK BASTADS
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i picked these up for a good price today. make ya fookers happy?
not sure how they mount? the small crothc belt has 5 mounting tabs on it.. but the 3 inch belts are way wider than those tabs.. so wtf?
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They're tube mounts...Glad to hear you got some ;D
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OH YEAH.......
You made Specy way happy jj:
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OH YEAH.......
You made Specy way happy jj:
like thats ever gonna happen. Well done mate.....
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dd: jj: dd: hh: bb:
Get-em on now and go play. Stay safe.
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btw.. that ripped up chair in the picture was my great grandmas, and as a kid i loved sitting in that chair. it was the most comfortable thing in the world.. so now its mine and its age is showing brilliantly...lol.
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I got a leather couch like that...
I can't leave Specinator alone with it...or it will dissappear
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very good voo!!!!!
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That's good ya went and got the belts Mate but where's the VIDEO?????? ???
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Yeah!! Should have a little picture, but you fold each side of belt in slide thru tab open back up to slide thru the clinch part. I found welding tabs to bolt them in place a little challenging cause I had not put bars at all the places the mounts should go.
I think what Spec was saying is you can wrap the belt around the tube and back thru the clinch and not use the little tabs. If you didnt get any instructions maybe they have a website that has something better.
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Yup...That's what I was saying ;D
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i have the little tabs... yea there was a little instruction card in there... it shows folding the belts and going through the tab then back through the cinch a couple times. where would i get easy to do tabs for these.. i really dont feel like making 20 tabs.. also.. i read a million things about mounting belts.. but could ya guys give me the jist of it.. the dos and donts?
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I think if you don't want to wrap them around a tube and cinch...You could rob tabs off of seat belts out of junked cars...Just cut the belt off
I use bolt ins so I don't have any pix of the tube mount...
Just keep in mind that the lap belts need to be slightly lower and behind your hips in the seat and the shoulder belts need to about shoulder height, but below the shoulder line slightly...Too hi and they'll force you into the sub strap in an impact...Or in a roll over won't hold you down in the seat...too low and they will crush your spine
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I'll try to find the pics I have at home showing desired positioning for NHRA.
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off the top of my head it's 10 degrees from horizontal ;)
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I think if you don't want to wrap them around a tube and cinch...You could rob tabs off of seat belts out of junked cars...Just cut the belt off
I use bolt ins so I don't have any pix of the tube mount...
Just keep in mind that the lap belts need to be slightly lower and behind your hips in the seat and the shoulder belts need to about shoulder height, but below the shoulder line slightly...Too hi and they'll force you into the sub strap in an impact...Or in a roll over won't hold you down in the seat...too low and they will crush your spine
Explain the logic to this? Really I need to know because my shoulder straps are bolted to my lower frame rail hip level on a swivel bracket.
But the finial contack point is about 30* below my shoulders. Would that point need to a fixed point or is a resting point a finial point?
Here is the install instructions on the back of a Crow box.
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Actually yes your shoulder belts are too low to pass NHRA tech anyway. However they are much better than most. I felt the belts fit and performed pretty well when I rode with you. Most I just don't trust and I usually don't take rides because of it. I've been in serious wrecks and owe my life to belts that were properly installed and adjusted. We cannot stress the importance enough.
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Fast
If the mounting points on the shoulder harness is too low...the force of your body into the harness makes the Harness pull down trying to pull straight out from the mounting point... thus acting like a lever pushing down on your shoulders and spine compressing you with the force that you are exerting against the harness in the foreward motion.
Ive seen floor mount harness's in roundy round cars crush the ali. seat in a fig 8 crash...Driver was lucky...he was a big guy who couldn't use/reach the sub strap so it just bruised the hell out of him and forced him to submarine under and out the front of the seat... when he subbed...His knee got whacked pretty hard tho...
Harness.s do however strech alot in a crash...But they will compress you 1st
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Fast
If the mounting points on the shoulder harness is too low...the force of your body into the harness makes the Harness pull down trying to pull straight out from the mounting point... thus acting like a lever pushing down on your shoulders and spine compressing you with the force that you are exerting against the harness in the foreward motion.
Ive seen floor mount harness's in roundy round cars crush the ali. seat in a fig 8 crash...Driver was lucky...he was a big guy who couldn't use/reach the sub strap so it just bruised the hell out of him and forced him to submarine under and out the front of the seat... when he subbed...His knee got whacked pretty hard tho...
Harness.s do however strech alot in a crash...But they will compress you 1st
Yes but! With the harness going across the back seat bar and going Thur the seat above the shoulder line. Would that not nullify that scenario? Come on guy's you wanted to talk buggy's let's talk buggies.
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As long as the bar is within a couple of inches of the peak of your shoulder...and can stand a couple thousand pounds of inertia/impact force. when the belts go taught at the moment of impact...You should be fine
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As long as the bar is within a couple of inches of the peak of your shoulder...and can stand a couple thousand pounds of inertia/impact force. when the belts go taught at the moment of impact...You should be fine
Not to worry then. The bar that the belts cross is 095 wall 4130 and then there are two 095 wall 4130 bar's that connect it to the lower main .120 wall 4130 frame. They run parallel to the belts. Besides The guy's on here know my driving style. Kind of like a little old lady on a Sunday drive to church. ;D :nw
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;D
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What church is that? The Church of OH SHIT!!!!!! bb:
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What church is that? The Church of OH SHIT!!!!!! bb:
3:
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Well that's what the wife said!
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so can i mount my shoulder mounts in the same spot? also, my seat has provisions cut out for belts.. but the should cutout is about 4 inches down from my shoulders. the belt goes over my shoulders, down, then back through the hole... is that ok? or am i gonna have to go over the seat? also.. can i cut off the excess belt when they are mounted? or what?
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no suggestions?
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so can i mount my shoulder mounts in the same spot? also, my seat has provisions cut out for belts.. but the should cutout is about 4 inches down from my shoulders. the belt goes over my shoulders, down, then back through the hole... is that ok? or am i gonna have to go over the seat? also can i cut off the excess belt when they are mounted?
As long as you a point that they go over for support at 20* below your shoulders. Would be better to just mount them just behind your shoulders like in the instructions.
I would leave just enough for and adjustment if en the wifey should get in a motherly way you know. ;D
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Just got in...Are you asking if you can mount them to the same bar?
Yup
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i mean the same bolt.. it would make it a ton easier if i could mount the two shoulder straps on the same bolt.
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I mount them separate.Don't know if it's necessary but it separates them a bit and minimizes how much they rub on yoiur neck.
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i mean the same bolt.. it would make it a ton easier if i could mount the two shoulder straps on the same bolt.
Mine are on one bolt. Where they come Thu the seat they run together. They are a mite uncomfortable to a shorter person. Wife say they rub her neck some. Not bad just noticeable. Not so bad when it is cool out and you have a jacket on. When it's 105* and all you got is a tee on then they do rub some.
If you have two cut outs in your seats then it won't make any difference. Having the slots a bit below your shoulders should not really make a big diff.
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Yes but! With the harness going across the back seat bar and going Thur the seat above the shoulder line. Would that not nullify that scenario? Come on guy's you wanted to talk buggy's let's talk buggies.
Theoreticall yes but in practice no. Draw some side on pictures and measure (calculate) the belt length.. OUCH!
the angle of the belt from the shoulder should NEVER go beyond 10 degrees from horizontal
i mean the same bolt.. it would make it a ton easier if i could mount the two shoulder straps on the same bolt.
Nooooooooo!
Mate, it's "easier" to forget them altogether.... it's safety - NO SHORTCUTS, NO GUESSES, NO EXCUSES.
With safety, do NOT trust the "common wisdom", too much ego and cognative dissonance goes into it's creation ;)
Instead take note of what the sanctioning bodies regulate for RELEVANT racing.
Nothings perfect. If two sanctioning boddies are conflicting on a point, it's relatively easy to pick the "common wisdom" eg: suspension seats.
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way my seats are made, if i route the shoulder belts through the hole in the seat, then automatically they are below my shoulder line....
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Many are...
I just go around the head rest and use the H-strap to keep the harness from "splaying"
This could be argued as dangerous...because I usually use the "Y" type harness's they want to come together just like they want to pull straight in an impact...
But I'm still here so clearly they haven't came together and cut my head off
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way my seats are made, if i route the shoulder belts through the hole in the seat, then automatically they are below my shoulder line....
How far? what angle?
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so i took my buggy to my buddies work (sign shop) and made an aluminum skid plates for the front end. and put some of my diamond plate through the break to make some foot gaurds.. i also made a mount for my toolbox ammo can.
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Mounted my shoulder belts on same upper mount. 9/16 grade 8 bolt.
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got more pictures of that?
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I can take some, what in particular?? I'll just try to get one of all mounts.
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Mounted my shoulder belts on same upper mount. 9/16 grade 8 bolt.
A bit of caution needs to be used when not using the center holes for the shoulder belts to pass through. Unless you are a BIG person the outer holes should not be used. With an average size person the outer holes will be more comfortable no doubt but in an accident you can easily slip through them and they will be useless. Shoulder belts should pull in tighter to the neck when placed under a load so they "catch and trap" you between them not letting you slip through them.
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thanks.. good advice
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Never thought of that, will change for the "little one".
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Only reason I KNOW this is from a crash I had in 1986. My shoulder belts were bolted in 5" on center with 2 bolts. Nothing in the wreck scared me a bit but for ONE thing. I can remember it clear as day the repeatedly being nearly thrown out of the shoulder belts. THAT scared the shit out of me. Part of the problem was also no sub belt used. Wasn't required then. It was 5 point all the way from then on for me.
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soooooo....... i bought an idler sprocket from bomgaars.. 15 tooth, half inch bore. made a new tensioner arm, still utilizing the old mounting location and the heim turn buckle.. Probably one of the single best additions i have made to this thing. almost zero vibrations from the chain now, runs cooler, smoother, way way less drag.. im satisfied. of course this is all from it on jack stands while running.. i also drilled and cut all my harness mounting tabs. hopefully tomorrow i can get those started.
update, i ordered a 72 tooth rear sprocket, and a 13 tooth front.
currently i have 14 front, 55 rear putting me at a 3.92 ratio..... the new setup will give me 5.53
and i CANNOT wait!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D
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You might see a bit of a difference. ;) ;D ;D Damn glad to hear the belts are going in first!
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Wheelie!!!!! Must be some hills round them parts, big hills.
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well i got the belts mounted... but then after shoveling corn with my arms out of a bin, through a hole the size of a basketball for 2 hours, in the sun with no water........ i was to tired to drive that effin thing.. im still not liking that the belts rub the f out of my neck... also the shoulder belts, i mounted around the tubes behind the seat, not sure about that.
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well i got the belts mounted... but then after shoveling corn with my arms out of a bin, through a hole the size of a basketball for 2 hours, in the sun with no water........ i was to tired to drive that effin thing.. im still not liking that the belts rub the f out of my neck... also the shoulder belts, i mounted around the tubes behind the seat, not sure about that.
Thats why I will only buy padded harnesses. I have had several pairs without and will never go back. same for the anti sub belt (crotch belt). I always said I would never use one till I used one. Aside from being safer they keep your harness from riding up all the time.
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you can buy the pads that velcro to the shoulder straps. I just bought some and wish I did long time ago!
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well i got my sprocket last night from doug... damn that was fast!!!!! that thing is freakin huge!!!! lol i didnt realize they were that massive.. gonna try to mount it tonite..
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so im kinda pissed at myself... i got the sprocket mounted. i had to move peices of my frame out of the way.. and i had to remove my chain tensioner, frankly i cant see anyway to use a tensioner now.. no freakin room.. so i feel like slapping myself for not just getting the 60, and being satisfied... :(
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Sleep on it. Put up a few pics. There's gotta be a way.
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and if all else fails Ill still swap it out and or look into a custom size like a 64 or 66
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a few pictures of the massive 72tooth sprocket on..
a few pictures from driving today.
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"http://www.youtube.com/v/qtNqHdvEbPc&hl=en&fs=1&"
this is with the new 13 front, and the original 55 rear sprockets. noticable difference than the 14tooth front. but nothing like the 72tooth rear. :D
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well i got my 60tooth sprocket from doug last week. i got the lady shark.. amazing sprocket!!! finally today i got it mounted. there is about 1/4" of clearance between my sprocket and my idler... it seems pretty close to the nature of the 72 tooth... i can still max out 6th gear, but atleast i have that acceleration in the lower gears that i wanted.. the 13 front and 55 rear would be perfect if i had a newer engine with more power to pull that gearing..
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So are you doing the 13 or 14 up front? I too run a 13 60 with the V twin though so totally different animal. I just wanted to comment on the smaller fronts as they do say that they will wear and heat your chain more. 15 would be ideal but sometimes you just have to go smaller.
I run the 13 and had no problems yet.
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13 front 60 rear.. may be a totally different animal.. but i can easily top out 6th gear, i find myself trying to shift again... i cant imagine that gearing with those tires, using a bigger way more powerful engine. damn doug, you must be able to redline in every gear no problem?... thanks so much for doing the swap for me.. its so so much appreciated.
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i have a ton of video id like to post, but my tv tuner will not record the sound for some reason.. and with vista, they dont support usb streaming anymore.. and i dont have firewire stuff... lame. f*** vista.. its such a pain in the ass at work..
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drove the piss out of it today. got some video, but the camera is not wind resistant i guess.. sound is crappy.. video is kind of boring..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwVurPF27Ig (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwVurPF27Ig)
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Can we assume you're having fun?
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I will make my own vroom vroom sounds. excellent, So you sure you cant make the Oct trip?
We should take up a collection for everyone that cant make it. Even fly in the Ausies!
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its fun just cruising around, there are a few good spots i like to hit, but due to tons of mud i didnt go down them today...
it would be a dream come true to make the trip to meet all you guys.
no trailer,
caddy doesnt pull trailers lol,
would have to take off work,
no extra cash for vacation right now,
and many more
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What's a few obstacles for a buggy builder? ya got 3 weeks!
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Isnt anyone sort of on the way that could squeeze you on a trailer.
Id feed you and let you stay at my site!
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Or mine also. Plenty of room .
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even getting on a trailer, having place to stay, and being fed... not sure if i can take off work. or afford to.. lol
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Plenty of time to think about it.
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did about 60 miles of night driving tonite.. it was a blast. found some nasty zero maintnance roads that were chewed out by rain water, pretty cool. came out on the highway and cruised back to my turn.. ran outta gas right on my turn. thank god for reserve... made it home safely..
here is a clip from about 2 weeks ago. i captured it straight to youtube, so the quality is absolute shit.. but still..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CfUJdvy2cY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CfUJdvy2cY)
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jj:
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from a couple weeks ago.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87y1T0w6XG0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87y1T0w6XG0)
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also from a few weeks ago.. a better quality of the garden run, and longer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPTdp9Ec2lI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPTdp9Ec2lI)
i thought of a good name for my buggy, hopefully im not stealing it from anyone. "In Dune Time" since i will probably never make it to the dunes.
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also from a few weeks ago.. a better quality of the garden run, and longer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPTdp9Ec2lI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPTdp9Ec2lI)
i thought of a good name for my buggy, hopefully im not stealing it from anyone. "In Dune Time" since i will probably never make it to the dunes.
DAMMIT! Glad to see you having fun though!
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heard you were thinking of stepping up to a 600 suzuki!
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or a CBR 1000 8)
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i would like a gsxr600....... you got one for cheap or trade?
but spec---- lol, we talked about this.. you know what i got..
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i would like a gsxr600....... you got one for cheap or trade?
but spec---- lol, we talked about this.. you know what i got..
lol no, that would be a bit small for one of my rails. but I did hear you were talking to a guy with a gsxr 600 for sale just south of you! I believe the town is called whynot ne lol!
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pictureless update!!!!
torched off 90% of my rearend, and all my previous version shock tabs, a-arms tabs, and whatever else was not needed. so basically all that is left if two rails with my double a-arms mounts. i bought some 4 bolt cast iron 1 3/8" bearings. Local store wanted $60 each for them, I found them an hour away for $24 each from a dedicated bearing shop. With gas to get there and back plus the bearings i saved over 25$. I also bought some 1995 explorer air shocks. Hemi43 used them on his buggy, so i wanted some. I called advance auto and ordered them. Not sure what to think about them, they are monroe shocks, with these big fooking air bags on them, and they look nothing like the factory ones that hemi43 got. :( not sure what to think.
last week before the nasty snow, my cousin an i were able to get some new rear bars cut. Mounting plates for the bearings. spacers for the new rear carrier. Also got the new carrier tached up and trued with the countershaft sprocket on the bike. Before my setup was angled just a hair inwards from the bike sprocket. Now just waiting for the snow to go away.
my shocks (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Shocks---Air-Adjustable-Monroe_15560032-P_34_R%7CGRPSHOCAMS_1110311593___)
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That link doesn't show anybig fooking air bags on them.
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when they extend, the aribag comes all the way out.. seems retarded.
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Where else would it go?
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lol
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well mty set of gabriel hijackers i had,, didnt have the airbag sticking way the fxxkout.. so keep your smartass comments to yourself.
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I'm sorry but I never saw any that did not.
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Seems to me all the newer ones do look like they are pregnant...
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all the air shocks i have delt with were like hemi43's internal airbags. this design with the air bag poking out and having a ton of movement seems like it will by prone to stressing, cracking, and uv deterioration.
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I put a set on my S-10 this spring and thought the same thing... so I drove it to the parts store and had the guy look at them...He said it was the normal way they looked
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Educate me. Post a pic of an air shock other than fox etc that have the bag internal.
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these are the ones i bought last year for the buggy.. no exposed airbag at all.. even when fully extended.
gabriel hijacker (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?displayName=Shock%2FStrut+-+Rear&itemId=661-0&navValue=14600661&parentId=46-0&productId=259481&fromString=&itemIdentifier=259481_49038_6636_4303&filterByKeyWord=&categoryNValue=&isSearchByPartNumber=&categoryDisplayName=Suspension&store=1655&skuDescription=GabrielHiJackers/Shock/Strut-Rear&fromWhere=&searchText=&_requestid=1246297)
look at hemis43 project log.. no exposed airbag, check out the 750 viraggo buggy at mbn, qite a few pics of his gabriels, no exposed airbag.
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i managed to find the pictures of the ones i had. these were taken exactly a year ago.. crazy.. time flies.
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Oh,I see what you're saying. what's the big deal tho?
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just seems the air bag is suseptable to damage when its exposed.
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I would agree the exposed airbag on some shocks is a puncture waiting to happen.
The 10 Gabriel air shocks going on my bender stand are all "enclosed". Only the very bottom of the airbag is exposed and even its inside a metal sleeve some. It would take something very well aimed to get up at them (not that its impossible)
That said the Gabriels NEED to keep a minimum of 5 PSI in them if they are being cycled or the bags can bind up and tear on a car as the suspension cycles (This is mind you as normal car with other springs holding the car up and the airshocks just helping)
I do know that the things on my bender stand will bind and not cycle if I have less than 5 psi in the shocks. The amount of force they will hold when rubber bag is bound is a surprising LOT. With the laods anormal car puts on them it tears the rubber.
The 5 PSI keeps the rubber filled out and rolling smooth inside the tube.
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8)The rubber tires are exposed too. I wouldn't worry about it.
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Yah after looking at the shocks on the buggy again you probably got bigger problems if the shocks gets ka-blasted by something.
If it really bugs yah a shield around the bladder could be done of PVC tube and a clamp? Just get bigger tube so it does not rub and a spacer tube around the shock to the shield tube. Just thinking outloud.
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sooo.. i bought the monroe max air adjustable shocks and spent alot of time redoing some shit on the buggy to have them fit. Made some nice mounts for them and all. Inspiration behind this was the "kyles fathers and son prject" build log where he used factory ford explorer air shocks and loved them. I then went to advance auto and got some air shocks for a ford explorer....... let the jack down with almost 100lbs in each shock and... it falls to the mother effin floor!!!! kicked my tools across the floor and went home... apparently air adjustable shock means that there is no lift provided, but the more air you add the more it dampens. Back to the store those things went and I am currently awaiting the same shocks i bought over a year ago. Gabriel hi-jackers for a 1996 for explorer (hoping they be the same length so i dont have to change mounts)... cheaper to boot also. I also found that gabriel airshocks for the rear of a 1975 corvette are only an inch shorter than my front shocks when fully extended.. woohoo!!!!!! I'll update the build with nice pictures as soon as i find a good camera.
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updates on the rear end. also the new gariel hijackers i got.
Also, a while back I braced in my roof so it wont collapse in a rol over, hopefully.
My new battery is mounted. The hold down strap is double row chain, with a wing nut on the bottom to hold it. there are pictures with two sets of shock mounts. the first set was leaned to far in so we had to extend them.
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Nice to see it work,you seem to be in a better mood too!
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Ok these are pics I lifted from this thread and Voodoos "Broken" thread. I also stoel the one of "that other site" with his measurements on it.
After looking at his pics here and on ("that other site") I think the bearings are to close together. Or is it just me??
If you look at the second pic above in Voodoos post you can see how close the blue bearings are. Or the third pic I posted below.
To ME. They seem to close to be really stable. Whats you-all's pinions?
VooDoo told me they are about as wide as his other bearings were and this makes me wonder if that might not have contributed to his other breakdown?
I lifted the first two pics from his "Broken" thread as I swore it looked like they were wider and now I see how I thought that.
The wide rear plate "LOOKS" like it is almost where the bearings are in the first two pics here. But if I look close now I see that its an illusion of sorts I missed before. The angle iron that hold the old bearing mount is inside THE EDGE of the wide rear flat plate a good bit and its turned inside so that the bearings are even closer together. This threw me into seeing that I thought the bearings before were nearly as wide as the wide rear plate in the first two pics (posted here from his broken thread)!! Instead of how it was so narrow!!
I just think its to narrow for good rear end stability with the sprocket pulling so far off to the left.
So I did a quickie mock up of placing the bearings out with my "blue blocks" but this makes for a problem for Voodoo as hes got it layed out for the sprocket and the disc brakes to go outside the bearings on the keyways.
Now I think these bearings will do better than the others. But anyone got opinions on if they will hold so close together? I would hate to see more carnage!$$!
The last two pics here are (#1) VooDoos own showing the measurement and (#2) the blue blocks I would try to get the bearings too myself. But again this messes with his current planned layout. What to do??
I have seen hubs with the bearings close together but for some reason this setup gives me the heebie jeebies and I would hate to see it flounder more parts on him. I cannot seem to not think the sprocket pulling out there to the left will not cause issues out like it is. This also seems different than a hub to me but perhaps only in my fragile mind?
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I gotta agree.
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also, the flat part of the bearing blocks is not where the bearing resides, they are out atleast a 1/2 inch. i know they seem to close, but they are actually the same as before. yea that still might be to close, but i just font have the room, and these bearings are way stronger than my old.
tell ya what.. once i get the sprocket on and the disc brake, i will space the bearings out as far as i can.. will that be ok? gotta be better than now.?
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If the shaft is keyed all the way across I would at least try to nip the key off on the right side and put that right bearing out to the flange and then mount the disc brake inside the bearings to space the bearings out.
I aint sure this is totally possible with your clearances and parts etc. But the more you can get the better.
Good luck either way.
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nope. only keyed enought on the ends for the axle, sprocket, disc brake hubs. i just dont see where its gonna go. axle is gonna be locked down to the bearings, by counter sinking where the allen screws lock it down, and the bearings, and mounts are deffinetly not going anywhere. well i guess its gonna have to work. because if it breaks again, gonna go a totally different route with the rear carrier, axles, a-arms.. and all. probably try a honda trany next.
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What I am thinking is gonna maybe happen is the motors pulling hard on that shaft (via the chain) off to that side and this is gonna be HARD for those bearings that close together to hold that shaft straight and true.
Add in the sprockets diameter and a little angle and you have chain derailment posibilites.
The new bearings SHOULD be better than the older ones.
This new thing of the bearings that close together (To me as I thoguht they were wider) has got me thinking about what may have caused it to come apart the first time too. Being there did not appear to be any CV damage.
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I never dreamed they were that close together originally.
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why not? how are they any closer than anyone else's? there is only a limited amount of space between where the srpocket and disc brake is.. i think the pics are creating an illusion.. they ere not right next to each other. they provide a solid space of 6inches holding the axle in place.. they are actually more holding than the old setup.
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heres my air resivoirs for my air shocks. turned out good. most air comps. only go to 120psi... these shocks can hold 200psi... how do i get more in?
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Most BIG air compressors will only do 120 or 150 PSI. IF you need more those little tiny 12 volt ones will go to 250 often. They SUCK for blowing up a tire but for the tiny capacity of your shock and reservoir they will do great.
Plus easy to take with you for tweaking.
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thanks great advice
just putting this here so i have the link when at home.
300psi compressor (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51SKDY54JPL._SL500_AA280_.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.amazon.com/Bon-Aire-Compressor-Inflator-Digital-Gauge/dp/B000I5ZDSQ&usg=__MITLo74k_Qewqmv4-Hn8vEakvNo=&h=280&w=280&sz=22&hl=en&start=28&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=7qPpXHXDQQQyOM:&tbnh=114&tbnw=114&prev=/images%3Fq%3D12%2Bvolt%2Bair%2Bcompressor%26ndsp%3D18%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26start%3D18%26um%3D1)
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so i bought a cheapo compressor from walmart. worked. put 140lbs in them and much better.
I decided to rebuild the air tanks, was not happy with the appearance of the first ones. got brake caliper mounted also. I had my sprocket hub face machined down to create a lip to match the center hole of my sprocket. for centering purposes. here are some cell phone pics. kinda blurry.
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so i have 4 stupid small fog lights i have been using for my headlights. i decided to buy something better.
these are hella brand 6.5 inch lights. i hope they will work better.
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also buying a 2003 yamaha r6 engine this weekend. so sometime this summer that will go in.
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You are THE non stop mod man. I know/hope you keep us up to date.
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i did it with my nova, my fiero, my motorcycles, this is the first complex vehicle i have built from ground up. I like constantly trying to make it better. yea its expensive, but it makes going to work, worth while.
oh yea-- i also put delrin bushings in the top shock eyelets.
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decided to take the plunge today and bought a 9,200lb tensile strength x-ring chain. it is 120 links, and with my 39 links per chain for the buggy, i"ll get 3 seperate chains out of it for 100$. not really sure how to attach the master link since it is a rivit on type. never used one of them.
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decided to take the plunge today and bought a 9,200lb tensile strength x-ring chain. it is 120 links, and with my 39 links per chain for the buggy, i"ll get 3 seperate chains out of it for 100$. not really sure how to attach the master link since it is a rivit on type. never used one of them.
you can buy masterlinks for that chain. that's amazing that a 39 link chain is holding! I think you'll like that 600 for you app.
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well i'm counting sideplates when i say 39 links.. im not sure the correct way to count links. i was using farm chain, and i would have to replace it after a couple rides due to stretch. yea i hope i like that 600. still gotta find an r6 gas tank.
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that'd be 78.
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well i'm counting sideplates when i say 39 links.. im not sure the correct way to count links. i was using farm chain, and i would have to replace it after a couple rides due to stretch. yea i hope i like that 600. still gotta find an r6 gas tank.
clay had one already built with the pump, you should just use that one. I ( in a weaker moment ) tried the implement chain just for fun once. it strecthed 4 times before I even made pass on the dunes at LS and then blew apart in front of the gate. so there I was dead in the water and my friend allan came along with his v-6 rail ( with a smirk on face of course ) and gave me a pull back. the worst part was everbody watching me drug bag dragging my chain behind me! thank god I can laugh about it now! LMAO rofl
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well whats the correct way of counting chain. this may seem stupid, but i was never told ny anyone, so i have been counting sideplates.. 78 huh? so count pins?
ds- i thought clay said it was a half gallon tank? i wouldnt make it down the road with that.
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well whats the correct way of counting chain. this may seem stupid, but i was never told ny anyone, so i have been counting sideplates.. 78 huh? so count pins?
Yup count the pins. Each pin holds the next link.
By counting the outside plates only you are technically skipping the next link which is on the inside.
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well sum beach... looks like master was right. i have a 78 link chain..lol i could figure out why people were amazed at how my "39" link chain was lasting..lol i get it now. ok well i bought a 114 link chain thinking i could get atleast 2 chains from it.. shit. that damn xring chain better last a whole summer.
also, how the heck do i use the rivit on master link? i have never used on. I always use the clip style.
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You get a chain tool...
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well sum beach... looks like master was right. i have a 78 link chain..lol i could figure out why people were amazed at how my "39" link chain was lasting..lol i get it now. ok well i bought a 114 link chain thinking i could get atleast 2 chains from it.. shit. that damn xring chain better last a whole summer.
also, how the heck do i use the rivit on master link? i have never used on. I always use the clip style.
Always a first time. rofl rofl I wonder if boost will put THAT quote in his sig line? LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO
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well sum beach... looks like master was right. i have a 78 link chain..lol i could figure out why people were amazed at how my "39" link chain was lasting..lol i get it now. ok well i bought a 114 link chain thinking i could get atleast 2 chains from it.. shit. that damn xring chain better last a whole summer.
also, how the heck do i use the rivit on master link? i have never used on. I always use the clip style.
You can likely buy a clip style master but the rivet ,using a chain tool, is stronger by quite a bit. You may not really need the strength so a clip style may be fine for you. Any opinions on this? boost any words of wis(eass) dom ?
;D ;D ;D
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I've run out of sig line space.... and the chain tools are very simple and effective. I have to use one for the chains on my go kart.
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I can make space. ;D ;D ;) Boost,I hope you know I'm just funnin' ya. :) You are right that chain tools are fairly cheap and the best option.
Want me to fix that sig line problem fer ya?
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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It's fine just the way it is. I don't need you fookin with it......again.
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Well,OK then. Just thought I'd offer to help.
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i have about a dozen of those chain tools. every master link i have ever used was clip style. so the regular chain breaker tool thing will also attach the rivit style master link?
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Yes,maybe,no. Pics of what you have.
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well whats the correct way of counting chain. this may seem stupid, but i was never told ny anyone, so i have been counting sideplates.. 78 huh? so count pins?
ds- i thought clay said it was a half gallon tank? i wouldnt make it down the road with that.
what he did was made a cylinder that held the pump that is half gallon and the full size tank was plumbed in to that.
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so i wonder if he has the r6 tank also
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he should! give him a call and ask, I think it would make your conversion a lot easier!
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You'll want something like this....
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/205/4893/ITEM/Motion-Pro-Chain-Riveting-Tool-Kit.aspx?SiteID=SLI (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/205/4893/ITEM/Motion-Pro-Chain-Riveting-Tool-Kit.aspx?SiteID=SLI)|Chain%20Rivet%20Tool&WT.MC_ID=10010
Not this....
http://redline-ci.com/Race%20Accessories/Tools/RG-01%20chain%20breaker.jpg (http://redline-ci.com/Race%20Accessories/Tools/RG-01%20chain%20breaker.jpg)
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thanks boost.. thats what i was wondering. we have like a dozen of the second kind you showed. i'll have to get me one of those first ones.
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I put my chain together on the work bench. Layed on its side, tapped the plate on with a hammer and punch. I already had the axle out so it wasn't too bad.
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well this whole time i thought i was buying an r6 engine, but i guess its a gsxr600 instead. works for me
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I didn't think it was a yamaha that is what he has now an R1.
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some updates:
i picked up my 2003 suzuki gsxr600 yesterday. got the engine, wiring harness (with keyless mod done) stainless fuel pump tank that plumbs to larger gas tank. radiator, fans, gauges, air box, service manual. damn good price!!! also oogled over clays buggys, pretty effin cool. looked very very nice.
then- i put my xring chain on my buggy, put my new hella500 lights on (man are they brighter than hell)
also- cleaned the shop and consolidated it for a few hours. umm- what else did i do..... cant remember
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some updates:
i picked up my 2003 suzuki gsxr600 yesterday. got the engine, wiring harness (with keyless mod done) stainless fuel pump tank that plumbs to larger gas tank. radiator, fans, gauges, air box, service manual. damn good price!!! also oogled over clays buggys, pretty effin cool. looked very very nice.
then- i put my xring chain on my buggy, put my new hella500 lights on (man are they brighter than hell)
also- cleaned the shop and consolidated it for a few hours. umm- what else did i do..... cant remember
thanks on the one but the other is all clay!
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the one he built at your shop, or whatever.. he said you helped him build it there. its very nice.
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yes he did help ;D that was part of the deal for giving him that cheaper price!
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I dont let too many people "help" me. Seems they either get in my way and dont do things the way I want them to be done. I charge extra if they want to help.
Shop rate...
$60/ hr on my own.
$80/ hr. to watch
$140/ hr. to help
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haha now thats funny.
i bought that d.i.d x-ring chain, rated at 9,270lbs... should that hold up fine for me? with my current setup?
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for a 600 cc IMO sure will. I use the Krause titanium XP chain. Strongest on the market they claim.
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Gees Doug that's not much of an arm! Looks more like a chicken wing :P rofl kick
Jokes Bud..
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it is a lil skimpy.......
yea i wanted to buy that krause chain. if this one ends up failing (like in my dream last night) i will definetly go krause.
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bought a package of this today. im surprised no one else uses this stuff for vibration on there buggies. aluminum panels, engine mounts, gauges, headlights.. unless i just missed those threads. this stuff just absolutly kills vibration and engine resonance.
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Used it once to help with 4-15" subwoofers in my mazda ext cab.
:o
:o
:o
:o
:o
:o
:o
:o
:o
:o
:o
It didn't help much. I now have curly hair. LMAO
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bought a package of this today. im surprised no one else uses this stuff for vibration on there buggies. aluminum panels, engine mounts, gauges, headlights.. unless i just missed those threads. this stuff just absolutly kills vibration and engine resonance.
I have a buddy that does $100K+ custom cars and uses yards of the stuff on each one. Pricey as hell but it sure as hell works!
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But do you know how it works.....
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I dont let too many people "help" me. Seems they either get in my way and dont do things the way I want them to be done. I charge extra if they want to help.
Shop rate...
$60/ hr on my own.
$80/ hr. to watch
$140/ hr. to help
I may have to print this out and hang it on the door!
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But do you know how it works.....
ok I'll bite how?
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But do you know how it works.....
Yes,but does it matter?
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Yes,but does it matter?
C'mon Fabr, this is a fab site. Everybody should know how/why the stuff they use works...
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THis is one of those visco elastic thingys. LOL!!!!It just plain works . I gotta agree with you though.
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Well since nobody else is saying... The short answer is that dynomat takes sound waves (panels resonating) and turns it in to heat. You can't hear heat....
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Ever hear a burger sizzle on the gill? Mmmmmmmm good sounding heat. Hehehheheeeee. ;D ;D
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thats interesting boost.. so are we talking heat increments that you can actually feel getting warmer?
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not that much heat
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i have tried cork gaskets, rubber washers.. to keep vibration from my gauges (lost tach needle) and burnt headlights... i bought the dynamat to stick on all that.. in hopes it will keep vibration down.. will it work?
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prolly not. If your engine is hard mounted. the vibration will still be there. Dynomat will take some of the noise out of vibrating body panels. What you need for your gauges and lights are vibration isolating mounts.
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Like these....
http://www.mcmaster.com/#vibration-damping-mounts/=5v4kg2 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#vibration-damping-mounts/=5v4kg2) check out page 1368
They are similar to some oem mounts.
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Good advise boost.
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Good advise advice boost.
All my advice is good....
"advise" is to give advice. ;)
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That was a shortened ,poorly structured sentence. That was Goodto advise VDC to use thoseboost. Read between the lines man! LMAO LMAO In other words ,lay off the spelling police BS. eyes ;D ;D
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Your spelling was just fine.
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LMAO ;D ;D ;D
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wrong forum The "alot" debate was one reson I came here wrong forum
I like the new smileys
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Thought someone could use them. ;D
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wrong forum The "alot" debate was one reson I came here wrong forum
I like the new smileys
Debate?
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overcompensating.com%2Fcomics%2Fa-lot.png&hash=755b5fae141fcab7b4e52b1de84c23ee1efcbc6c)
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A lot is a place to build a house.
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big problem.. engine running in nuetral....squeeze clutch, put in gear and it dies. nothing changed with the electrical and the side stand switch is still working. engine off. in gear, clutch in and its rough turning the wheels, adjusting clutch doesnt make a difference. engine running clutch not engaged, very minutely edge shofter forward into gear, before any teeth grind at all, engine dies. engine running revved up, clutch engaged, slam it into gear and nail gas... engine dies. whats the mother effin deal.
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Have you tried it with the chain off? Does the rear end spin free with no chain on it?
I know you said before it enguages the gears at all it stalls but just fishing here a tad. As somethings different. I would look at what yah changed.
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rear end spins freely with chain on.. wheels turn easily. its gotta be the side stand relay or something, because it wont start in gear with clutch in like it used to. pulling harness tonite to solder and shrink all connections instead of butt connectors.
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You're on the right track IMO.
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on another note. i'm extremely excited that i got that gixxer600, but looking at the harness on that thing makes me cringe...
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ground wire was not hooked up for the side stand relay... how lame. drove buggy tonite.. motors knocking.. how fxxking lame.
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im done with this buggy shit.. i give up. since my 5 minute drive around the yard last night, both outer cv boots are torn apart, both wheel bearings are completely shot, engine is knocking and smoking like a bitch.. none of this was bad before the drive, checked and double checked all. only had notived the motor knock previously (last night after driving) noticed everything else tonite while buttoning trhings up.. screw this.
oh did i mention those shocks are peices of shit garbage, maybe ok for a single seater.....not this tank.
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Hey Voodoo sorry to hear about ya misfortune man, maybe chalk it up to experience and move on Bud.
Maybe do a two seat Cuda or one of those sand cars. 8)
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give me a call about the motor. pm'd you my #
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glad to hear you still have one good motor in reserve! as soon as you get back on track let me know I can give you some info and help!
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Well, started again. got the wiring pulled out, motor out, everything off the back that comes off, and started torching the whole rear off. i have a new plan and hopefully it works this time.
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Great to see you "re-inspired".
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i was on hold for awhile because i was busy building this truck.. 79 k10 1/2ton went from stock, to 15.5" lift over stock. also with 39.5" tires. had to turn the front differential up a few degrees and clearence the hell out of the cardan joint and yolks on the front driveshaft. We used brakes lines from livewire and man are those things nice.
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When you gonna get that thing muddy, LMAO. Glad to see you back. Wanna share the ideas for the new rear. Gonna use that new motor?
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yes 2003 gsxr600 going in.. heres a sketch........
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I have a suggestion fer ya. Buy one of Dougs rear drives.Weld the sucker up and in and then go beat the shit out of it. WITH CONFIDENCE! ;D ;D
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cant afford it..cant afford 500-1000-2000-3000, i can make my own for just my time...... just bought new chain and tire for my motorcycle, theres 400 bones.
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For what its worth I like your new rear end spool design above over ten times more than the old setup for strength/stabiility. :k
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found these.. way way better than 30$ each... still jipped me on shipping.. 20$ for two...ha
CV boots (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160418712120&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT)
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So you paid 14.85 each.
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well yea.. but still, why dont they just up the price and lower shipping. dont cost no 10$ each for 5-7day ground...
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What difference does it make so long as YOU realize what they really cost? You aren't one of those people that don't think shipping isn't always a part of the cost are you?
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no.. and we had this convo already about a year ago when i bought my tach for 15$ with 11$ shipping... lol your memory is slipping.
just the thought of it that if they charged actually shipping, then they woulda been way cheaper.
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just the thought of it that if they charged actually shipping, then they woulda been way cheaper.
Braaaaat.....WRONG! If they charged actual shipping costs then they would have also raised the price of the product so in the end you would have paid the $26 no matter how they "split" the costs. Heck they could have listed it for $26 with free shipping and the majority of people would have seen the word "free" and thought they were getting a deal.
Or....they could just be racists. :D
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When you seach ehay lowest price first, his pop up. Dont think ehay gets %%% of the shipping, only the 4.95. He should have given a break on 2nd shipping. I bet they are in same box. Either crooks or racist. kick
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eyes eyes eyes ;D ;D eyes eyes Oh you guys!
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no.. and we had this convo already about a year ago when i bought my tach for 15$ with 11$ shipping... lol your memory is slipping.
just the thought of it that if they charged actually shipping, then they woulda been way cheaper.
What memory you talking about. I don't recall having one.
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Pac's got it. The guy was looking for a certain dollar amount. By jacking up shipping he can lower the "actual" price of the item and end up with the same amount in his pocket.
Just use the "lowest price+shipping" option. That gives you the lowest cost.
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I have a suggestion fer ya. Buy one of Dougs rear drives.Weld the sucker up and in and then go beat the shit out of it. WITH CONFIDENCE! ;D ;D
Id sell you just the center unit if you like to get you started. Trust me. Money well spent even if you have none! Break it, Ill eat the cost of fixing it! Comes with the brakes too! $850 plus ACTUAL SHIPPING. Because I like you ;D
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heres so update pictures. had motor mounted, but cut it back out. Started rear carrier, hopefully will be final design. i like the way its coming together. pictures suck dick due to phone camera. i hate these piece-o-shit greasable bearings, so im gonna pop some sealed ones in the cast holders. sprocket and disc brake will finally be mounted inboard of the bearings. the motor will be offselt to the passenger side also.
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lookin good
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hope ya never have to change a bearing...
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bearing replacments most always suck anyway. Looking good VooDoo. Im looking forward to watching your set up develop!
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heres so update pictures. had motor mounted, but cut it back out. Started rear carrier, hopefully will be final design. i like the way its coming together. pictures suck dick due to phone camera. i hate these piece-o-shit greasable bearings, so im gonna pop some sealed ones in the cast holders. sprocket and disc brake will finally be mounted inboard of the bearings. the motor will be offselt to the passenger side also.
Why do you feel it better to use sealed bearings?
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the bearings i used last time were sealed and after all summer and breaking down they still spin nice with no play.. these greasable ones allow dirt in, and are loose... and i have not even used them more than 5 minutes.
bearings will be easy to change, same as before, pull axles off- pull off hubs- pull center axle out and replace bearings.....
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pull off hubs- pull center axle out and replace bearings.....
That's not always as easy as it sounds. Rust is the worlds best lock-tite.
With your design, to change bearings you will have to move or remove everything but one hub on the center shaft. If the bearings were on the outside of the plates, you would only have to remove one hub to get to them. Even if the hubs themselves aren't stuck, you will still have rust between them and set screw divots to contend with.
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i see.. i have always had to remove axle to do anything with bearings.. but i see your point.
the reason the bearings are on the inside, is so i can have my a-arm mounts off the side plates. with the bearing on the out side, my plates would be closer, which would bring my arm mounts in.. and with my tripod axles that just wouldnt work.. so im ok so far with this setyup. thanks for the heads up though!!!!
also, i was gonna counter sink the holes where my set screws go... bad practice or good idea?
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I'd call it a good idea. No deeper than necessary though.
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I use sealed on almost everything
Boost made a good point... there is a really easy trick to getting the sealed bearings out when rusted in...Fill the void on the inside of the bearing with grease and smack it with a punch that is slightly smaller than the bearing opening...That fooker will pop out so quick and easy :o ;D
And smack you in the crotch if your not carefull
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ORRRRRR.........spray grease all over you.
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ill torch them off.. acutally i was gonna price out a stainless shaft from my machine guy. but will i have a problem with the steel seizing to the stainless?
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While I agree rust is the best locktite a few blasts of WD-40 will push out most of the water and if you spritz it after every ride (heck before even too) and pop it apart once a season to check it out there should be no real issues.
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Stainless is not good for a driv shaft as it is soft. Tuff to machine because it is so dense but it still is relativly soft depending on the grade. Dissimilar metals are good to use when you dont want them to sieze up. IMO just use antisieze during assembly.
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tadaaaaa!
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its softer than the steel round stock i have been using?
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Im sure it is. Stainless is not good for structure unless you want to spend some coin on 17-4 or other grades with carbon in it so it can be heat treated.
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And rust.
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some more progress, originally torched out a rear end plate, but hated it. so i made a new one that is nice and straight. everything lines up good. the shock is something new im working on. hope they work good. also a pic of my hella lights mounted. they are bright!!
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PLEASE tell me you're NOT going to weld on that shock body.
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im gonna weld a retaining ring on, so that my spring plate wont slip down.. be done many times, im not worried about it. Many offroad applications around here have done that also. any shock with an adjustable preload like the 5 adjustment types, use welded on bits to retain the spring holder. The ring will not be bearing the weight of the spring, it will be incase my spring retaining plate gets deformed and slips down, it will keep me up so im not stranded.
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The thing is a sealed cylinder full of oil under pressure. Please wear your bomb disposal gear.
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we have welded on shocks before.. use low heat and short bursts. i do know what the shocks consist of. as long as you dont get it to hot, and cool the shock after each weld, it works. Ive seen then pop while welding, never seen one explode, just start shooting oil out. thanks for the concearn though!!! :) dangerous games we play!
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So long as you're aware of the risk.
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would a bolt on clamp suit your fancy better?
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Can't say one way or the other. I just wanted to point out for the benefit of those that might not know that it is ,at least IMO, a bit dangeros to weld on a filled shock bdy or ANY closed vessel with anything flammable inside.
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would a bolt on clamp suit your fancy better?
Thats why they make them ;D
How about the slide /clip ones that have the threaded body?
They slid on right under the bushing, and hold a threaded sleeve that fits over the body of the shock
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spec, that costs money...lol i have none anymore.
any thoughts on the rear end? is it ok? pictures on page 31.
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There is a really cheap...NO DOLLAR WAY to build what I was speaking of from scratch...
I prolly still have the stuff to do it with
I cut a 1/4" slab out of 2 1/2" or 3" round stock...Drill a 3/4" hole in the center, cut a slot out to one side so it looks like a "C"...
slide it on to the shock...On the narrow way of the bushing...then turn it so the bushing gets wide...turn it so it locks on the bushing,,,
Take the tubing that just fits over the shock body...(Cut to the length you need, to support the spring)...Cut another slab off your round stock...hole saw out the size of the tube...( or buy a big washer from the impliment shop. weld it on that tube...
and TA DAAAAA INSTANT SLEEVED COIL OVER ASSEMBLY...
For the cost of a non coil over shock and half an hour of time....
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i already have the top and bottom spring retainers... just the bottom ones seem like over time they may deform and slide down over the bigger diameter of the shock body, so i was gonna spot weld the small ring i cut right under where the bottom spring retainer goes.
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;D
That's why I cut mine out or round stock and make them so thick
I'm thinking about doing a set for my 71 this summer some time...
That was the plan sorta for the NO BUDGET BUILD ::)
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ok im not gonna weld on the shocks, ill play it safe!! thanks for the concearn!! got my wheels turning.
here are some pics.. i hope the new spring holders will strike your fancy!!!
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I'm still concerned With the spring mounted that way there is no support ...the shaft takes the brunt of any side load...I don't think it will last but I could be wrong...
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how????? its just like other coil over setups you can buy...... the piece i made, fits around the shock body, has a thick plate in the center to hug the top of the shock body, and also has a smaller tube that keeps the spring from moving side to side!!! please explain why nothing is good enough or wont work?????
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its the exact same design as what came off the original blown shock, just made of steel instead of aluminum.... explain how that cant work? the shaft cant take anyside load.. spring cannot contact shaft or put any side to side force on shaft.. so please explain
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I'll try to explain this to the best of my quite limited ability :-\
You mount the spring there, it will not have the satbility of the shock body to stabilize it, so your putting extra sideload on the shaft of the shock...because of the geometry of when pushing down on the shock...the shaft is the weak link... when the spring is stabilized by the shock body it changes the way the load is carried by the whole assembly...
your picture with the yellow is where the shock will bend with much of a load
the red lines are where most quality shocks...such as works/showa/clicker...mount theirs
But ya know what?
I really don't give a flying shit how you do it
I won't try to help again
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Voodo
I think what Spec is trying to say is you can't compress a spring to where it flatens out straight up and down. If you were to take that spring and put it in a press and start to compress it even with it supported at the top and botton It would want to bow out in the middle. That bowing out will create and outward force that will destroy that shock. Maybe not while your just cruising but on a bump or a jump the spring will want to fully compress and slam against the rod of the shock. Kind of like a banana. Just saying.
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At voodoos request I have cleaned this thread up.
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here is my progress from the weekend. the other two times i made a arms for this thing i did not use a jig and i just measured each tube.. this time around my rear end is straight and everything measures the same.. so i made a crude jig for my bottom arms and got those made.
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Jigs are your best friend.
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progress from tonite...one top arm made.....
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got my last a-arm done. here are some more shots with a better camera.
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Look'n good Voodoo, it makes it a lot more accurate using the old jig huh!! ;D
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(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dtsfab.com%2Findex%2FMGalleryItem.php%3Fid%3D964&hash=b4e709b79917b6837bea645f8ecd7b9852af2e3a)
I have a few questions about this flange. Is the diameter I marked as "A" centered on anything internally that doesn't show in this picture? Are you depending on the bolt pattern to hold one side of the flange centered on the other side of the flange? If there's no feature other than the bolt pattern to keep the flange half running coaxially it's going to walk around when you start using it and the vibration takes its toll.
The gap you have between the flanges where the bolts pass thru (circled) is a poor design. It puts the bolts in bending. Plus it will encourage the joint to move one flange to the other as a result of the clearances between the holes and the fasteners.
How can you improve it? One way would be to make a plate to fill that gap between the flanges with a hole in the center to recieve that pilot on the axle side of the flange joint then weld that plate to the center section part of the flange. Obviously the hole in the plate would need to be a close fit on the pilot on the axle side and you'd have to try to get it all centered up before you welded it.
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I agree completely . At the very least there should be a non piloted spacer in there. I wouldn't worry too much about the concentricity really but to be correct it should be done as Lance has said. As is ,the bolts are seeing a bending load as well as shear.
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i'm way ahead of you guys. even though i ran it like that for along time.. it does need to be fixed. i drew up some plates awhile back to have doug, or someone make, that will fill the gap and center the axle to hub. just have not gotten around to it. but for now in the building process, its fine. thanks though!!!
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got my shocks mounted.. im gonna do something different with the springs, because like stated, i dont wanna bend them.. but for building purposes they are there.
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You'll be riding soon now!
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got a question about those shocks.. my idea is to extend the top of my spring holder up into the shock, about halfway up the spring.. that was it will basically be like extending the shock body.. will this work? and keep the spring from bananing out and bending the shaft?
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got my shock mounts fully welded. these shocks are pretty stiff, i was jumping all around on this think and it was barley budging.. i just need to figure out a way to keep my shafts from bending...
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started mounting engine. in order to clear the airbox on the seats, i had to set the engine quite a bit back than i wanted to. seems to be ok though. also got two new rear hubs.
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my progress from sunday. chain tensioner almost done. all but one engine mount done. last picture is a cool sticker that came with my berarings i ordered.
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You just keep improving your skills
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i hope all these pictures and info is helping people.. i sure would have liked pictures like this when i first started
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yes, its helping people. I'm only one but I know there are more watching that don't talk or type.
I guess they would be Voodoo Voyers huh ?
I can tell ya this, I've learned enough from his thread that it would be worth it to throw a little somethin his way just cause of the money he saved me by posting so much detail about the troubles he's had and how he fixed them. Sounds nuts but Voodoo really has saved me some cash. LOL and then there's the , ehem, OTHER reason to send cash. But that would be like paying for porn. Ahhhh, it wasn't really porn, but I felt kinda rough in church on Sunday knowing I looked at the pics. rofl
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well thanks!!! that makes me feel better about posting all this stuff.
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got my exhaust done, and my rear caliper mounted.... the exhaust i used my R1 aftermarket header an cut it up for the 90 bends and a collector. routed the exhaust up the back of the engine and out. Found a gsxr750 muffler for 20$ but it had a 3bolt flange and my exhaust had 4bolt.. so i had to make a 3bolt one.. what a pain that was. turned out good i think. the pictures are quick shitty cell phone pics with low light. sorry.
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here is the new flange i had to make
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Nice job. Where there's a will/need there's a way,huh voodoo!
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next is the gas tank.. two options.
1. use the stock (very large) gsxr600 tank, which i paid $50 for....
2. use an aluminum gravity flow tank, to the 1/2gallon stainless pump mounted tank i already have.. i cant decided... need some opionions.
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i figured people were probably sick of cell phone pics, so here is the same as above but with a nicer camera.
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heres my stock tank i have...
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well decided to buy this.. figured better not waste my time with the stock bike radiator.
civic rad (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270514962713)
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Good choice and decision.
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got more done tonite.. tried making a framework cage to house my fuel tank.. but failed.. then made simple mounts, rubbered of course..
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Got my radiator!!! that was quick, ordered it friday. came packed very well in perfect condition.
welds look good, no globs or pin holes.
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Got my radiator!!! that was quick, ordered it friday. came packed very well in perfect condition.
welds look good, no globs or pin holes.
That baby looks nice. :o What company did you get it from? 8) 8) 8)
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It does appear to be one of the better ones out there. Nice snag!
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from ebay, seller awesomecarparts he had the best feedback about fast shipping and nice product. plus i always look for free shipping.
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COOL. nice find 8) 8) 8)
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whats the best way to plumb this dang thing? rubber all the way? tubing for all except the connections?
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whats the best way to plumb this dang thing? rubber all the way? tubing for all except the connections?
Tubing the hole way, expect for connections . just my .02 8) 8) 8)
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yay back to shitty cell phone pics... mounted the radiator, with thick rubber bushings.
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Fan?
Will have to snag one of those rad's, mine was too small and has a leak. Had to add H2O twice a day at LS.
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i didnt know where i was gonna mount the dang thing, then i seen yoshi mounts his on the back like that. so i talked to him about it, and decided to mount mine there. as thats really the only place i could find.. and yes going to run a fan.
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am i going to have issues with the cap being horizontal? along with the overflow tube..?? hope not!!
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Yes you are going to have issues getting the air out of the radiator.
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the cap is still at a high point, just didnt know if it being tilted like that if it would have leak issues or something...
i would think that with it bouncing around and sloshing while driving that any trapped air would go into the overflow bottle, and coolant would be siphoned back up when cooling?
any suggestions on a better mounting place?
Maybe i should mount it sideways down by the engine?
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It's fine where it's at but,You're going to need to relocate the filler neck. No big deal for an aluminum welder.
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the cap is still at a high point, just didnt know if it being tilted like that if it would have leak issues or something...
i would think that with it bouncing around and sloshing while driving that any trapped air would go into the overflow bottle, and coolant would be siphoned back up when cooling?
any suggestions on a better mounting place?
Maybe i should mount it sideways down by the engine?
A person would think so but it WILL NOT happen that way.
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so relocate it so its pointing up? or should i just mount the thing down along side the engine?
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Relocate so it's at the high point and level.
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what materials are suitable for the coolant piping? i know aluminum, but like copper? galvanized? steel?
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If possible stay with aluminum to prevent erosion problems and use a good antifreeze at the proper dilution.
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here is the other possible radiator mounting place..
also got my front gas tank mount done.
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Gonna get hit by rocks and shit there IMO.
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dang fabr, its a full time job just replying to my posts.... :P
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+1 on the rocks.
Probably better airflow up top too.
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just looking at the rad- the fill spout looks like it would be a bitch to relocate, not even welded on, its like pressed... the fill cap inlet was the one you suggested relocating right? and not the top water inlet?
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Yes the filler . Just but a new neck and have it welded in place That stamped aluminum one will likely give you trouble anyway at some point. Just weld a patch in where the old filler neck is and grind/sand/polish smooth . You'll never know it's not a custom radiator then. If you can't find a new filler neck from ANYWHERE else I have a nice billet one that for a price I'd part with. You'll do better finding one elsewhere. Ebay is a good p[lace to look.
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any reason this wont work?
Billet neck (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CXRacing-Billet-Aluminum-Radiator-Filler-Fill-Neck-Cap-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27b23fac9cQQitemZ170494241948QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
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Looks as good as any. Has a nice flange for welding.
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23 bux with cap and shipping. Nuttin much wrong with that.
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to make it level, its gonna have to be welded on the tank where it comes to a side..
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Use a short piece of aluminum tube to act as a riser placed as high as possible on the top surface of the upper tank.. Only needs to be an inch or so.Then weld the neck to the riser that has had the top cut level first. VIOLA! No trapped air as you can now fully fill the radiator.
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Hell,as level as the rad sits the riser can maybe only 1/2" or so tall. It only needs to be higher than any other area of the rad.
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new wheel bearings for the front.. i always assumed the front ball joints were shot from the looseness.. even felt bad, but when i went to disassemble.. i found they were tight as a drum and the wheel bearings were toast on one side...
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new wheel bearings for the front.. i always assumed the front ball joints were shot from the looseness.. even felt bad, but when i went to disassemble.. i found they were tight as a drum and the wheel bearings were toast on one side...
On those new sealed bearings, remove a seal from one side very carefully and add some extra grease. In the past I've bought new sealed bearings that did NOT have any grease in them and they only made it 30 mins, before they there trashed. Just my .02 8) 8) 8)
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from the bearing itself? or add grease to the inside of the hub?
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from the bearing itself? or add grease to the inside of the hub?
Add grease to the bearing itself.
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how the hell do i get the seal out of the sealed bearing..my lucj ill ruin them.. and they are already installed..
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Quality bearings will have the proper amount of grease in them. They will NOT be full either. According to bearing mfgs they will be only packed about 30-50% full on purpose.
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how the hell do i get the seal out of the sealed bearing..my lucj ill ruin them.. and they are already installed..
Use very small flat head (pocket) screwdriver and go between the outside steel race and the seal itself and carefully work round the seal and it will pop out. 8) 8) 8)
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Quality bearings will have the proper amount of grease in them. They will NOT be full either. According to bearing mfgs they will be only packed about 30-50% full on purpose.
The sealed bearings that I have trashed in past, that had no grease in them where Timkin bearings. After that I check all sealed bearings, no matter what brand they are every time before I install them. 8) 8) 8) 8)
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i dont know where to get aluminum tube to make my coolant tubes. so i think im gonna have to use rubber..
here are some pics of my fully welded exhaust..
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Nice job.
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went to the parts store and browsed through their radiator hose rack. radiator uses 1.25" outlets.. and bike uses 1".. i found two hoses with bends that had 1" on one end and 1.25" on the other.. also found some that are just 1" to fit bike.. total 21$.. then i used my frame tube (same size as bike inlet/outlet) and make my hard lines. the lines i made had red drawn through them.
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TaDAA!!
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any reason those long lengths wont work? pump wont have issues?
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I got my shift linkage done today.. its all one piece going from my z-bar to the shifter leg.. previously i used tube and welded bolts to each end.. now i used rod, threaded the ends to fit my clevis and smal hiem joint.. looks nice. also go all my tabs for my coolant tubes welded up..
Not much left untill maiden voyage #2
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picked up my recut center axle today, and dropped off my radiator to have the coolant fill moved to highest point. ill get pictures tomorrow when its ready.
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here is my radiator.. had the fill spout moved to the top, and level when the rad is mounted at a 25 degree angle... also had a bung welded in for my temp sensor.
then decided to put my new cv boots on, and replace on whole joint...
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So i started the wiring.... not to bad. Unlike my previous engine Im not gonna build from scratch this harness. It all stays around the engine except the forward harness and my ignition. I found that my katana ingnition switch has the same wires just not the two antitheft wires. so i resistored them and just wired my old ignition plug into the new harness easy as pie.
couple questions!!! :: power to the front, should i just run a fused wire to a "power block" in the front, or bring power off the main ignition power? also, for the lights.. wire into the head light wires of the bike harness? or relayed on a seperate line to the batter?
Pictures: couple of the tip over sensor opened up, frankly i dont know how this doesnt go off from normal leaning around turns on the bike.
rats nest harness, and some of my new forward and ignition harness.
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So i started the wiring.... not to bad. Unlike my previous engine Im not gonna build from scratch this harness. It all stays around the engine except the forward harness and my ignition. I found that my katana ingnition switch has the same wires just not the two antitheft wires. so i resistored them and just wired my old ignition plug into the new harness easy as pie.
couple questions!!! :: power to the front, should i just run a fused wire to a "power block" in the front, or bring power off the main ignition power? also, for the lights.. wire into the head light wires of the bike harness? or relayed on a seperate line to the batter?
Pictures: couple of the tip over sensor opened up, frankly i dont know how this doesnt go off from normal leaning around turns on the bike.
rats nest harness, and some of my new forward and ignition harness.
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frankly i dont know how this doesnt go off from normal leaning around turns on the bike.
Inertia. You ever fill up a bucket with water and then swing it over your head and not lose a drop? The same centrifugal forces that try and push the bike sideways off the road when you go around a corner real fast, also hold the tip over sensor in it's open circuit position.
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wiring all done, except lights and switches. also had to order an atmospheric pressure sensor..
look how simple the wire diagram is.. eyes
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Does it run, cause that is what matters. Though I would tidy up the wires a bit LMAO
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i took those pictures midway of doing the harness.. but all my splicing, soldering, and extending is done. im 100 % confident that it will power up and be correct. as far as the motor running? that im not sure of, im sure the injectors or the ecm is probably bad, knowing my luck.
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im 100 % confident that it will power up and be correct.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fusers.softlab.ntua.gr%2F%7Esivann%2Fpub%2Ffunnypics%2Fmurphys-law.jpg&hash=c2c9be84f2ddf034216ad168d365abdd08eb6777)
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I still cannot help but wonder when I see that pick Yummi posted above if it was an accident, Beaverside, or another beaver did it to get rid of him (beaver murder?).
Then again you can carry a lot of weight on your shoulders so maybe hes just wiggled under it and getting ready to hoist it up to haul it to the pond....
Beaver Limbo?
Heres to hoping the bugger starts Voodoo! :k
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that sounds good.. he is in the midst of moving the log..ha.
I am confident! nothing wrong with that. Im pretty good at these dang wiring diagrams once i sit and look at it.. I used the majority of friday night and saturday morning to figure out what i needed to do, move, cut, solder, and extend... it will power up and crank 100% for sure!!! 8)
if it doesnt, then its a bad relay. probably wont ever start.. probably get particles in the injectors and wotn run worth a crap..lol.
ill be busy doing a 383 crate swap into a 72 nova with a buddy all week after work, so next weekend will hopefully be fire time!!!!!! cant wait!
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Did you put the anti-theft resistors in the harness where needed? They aren't shown o n factory schematic. I didn'y look closely at yours.
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yup. i believe i mentioned that when i was talking about being able to use my katana ignition switch. It had 4 of the 6 ignition wires, i just had to resistor the two antitheft wires, and then connect my katana plug and key switch.
also siliconed my tip over sensor. and its now been proven that the clutch switch wires do need to be in place or on a toggle. when just jumpered together it keeps the "nuetral" mapping and retarded timing in place. this appears to be a suzuki only deal. but i researched the hell out of it and veiwed dyno charts and talked to a few suzuki guys. proven loses of up to 20hp.....
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Retarded timing is cool with turbo. ;D ;D
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but your fuel mapping in nuetral is not cool. gotta either hook up your clutch switch to clutch or on a momentary switch, or toggle..
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Hmmmm,you may have something there. I'll run it past the busa forum. I thought that the busa didn't have that issue. I may be quite wrong tho.
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as far as i have heard it is on all the suzukis gsxr's.... yours being a gsxr1300 hayabusa.. people like to say well the wires just go to blah blah.... one clutch wire, most likely the black with yellow stripe coming of your clutch switch does branch to the ecu... and like i said.. atleast on the gsxr 600s it has been dyno runned to show that up to 20hp has been lost due to jumpering the clutch wires.
why it is: people like to rev the piss out of the engines in nuetral, and while holding clutch in.. it retards the timing to prevent the high revving no load from hurting the engine.. when clutch it let out and full throttle applied while under load its fine have the advance.
may i also add, people were still arguing it is a myth after the dyno sheets were posted, and even after a correspondence with several race teams, and there is even a fix from suzuki released providing you can reprogram an ecm.... so myth it is not....
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I'm not saying the advance is not retarded with clutch jumpered. That would not be a bad thing on boosted bike . I'm just questioning any fueling change.
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oh yea.. almost forgot.. redline rpms are lowered by 500rpms. on a busa thats not good.. if this applies..
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Quote and info from sh.org
"just looped the two wires for the clutch switch.This makes the ecu think the clutch is in and runs the nuetral ignition map and cutouts out at 10400(coilrpm)"
Grey info here:
http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=124715.0 (http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=124715.0)
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For the reasons you give I agree I'm making the wiring change. Damn.LOL!!!!!
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well glad I could FINALLY help you out!!!!
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;D We can all learn something each day if we try. ;) ;D ;D
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;D We can all learn something each day if we try. ;) ;D ;D
Do or do not..... There IS NO try..... :d
No Yoda smiley..... SO I used Darf Nader.
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I pretty much do. Days a total waste otherwise.
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I "do do" ever chance I get; otherwise, I just feel uncomfortable..... oh, wait....
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oh yea.. almost forgot.. redline rpms are lowered by 500rpms. on a busa thats not good.. if this applies..
enemy could tell you about this one!
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Actually voodoo I am finding you could get better benefit from fooling the ECU into thinking the tranny is in 6th gear all the time. The busas have vastly different maps for 5/6 and ,2/3 and 1
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yea.. same for all the gsxrs...tre timing retard elimiator.. in 1st to 5th the bikes power is not full, due mainly to keep it under control.. now 6th gear is balls out... the tre tricks the bike into keeping the 6th gear map in 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th.... harder to keep the wheel on the ground, but for a buggy is perfect.. but not sure how these coincide with the clutch circuit..
tre's can be had for as little as 20 to $40... some can be more expensive.
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Several do not work either.
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yea.. same for all the gsxrs...tre timing retard elimiator.. in 1st to 5th the bikes power is not full, due mainly to keep it under control.. now 6th gear is balls out... the tre tricks the bike into keeping the 6th gear map in 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th.... harder to keep the wheel on the ground, but for a buggy is perfect.. but not sure how these coincide with the clutch circuit..
tre's can be had for as little as 20 to $40... some can be more expensive.
Must be what Enemy has, as he cant keep his front on the ground. rofl
Since you'll likely never get into 6th wide open ff:, a way to fool 1st-5th to kick a$$ could be as good as a gold. What would a good one cost, maybe $200. Definitly be my step before dumping the cash to step up to a turbo, if it works.
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they do work, of course 20$ might not get you a good one. why can you not get into 6th? ive never had a problem...
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Just not alot of place you can run 90+. Too many pine trees here.
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Here's the real story in a nutshell.http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=148769.new#new (http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=148769.new#new)
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"Although I don't personally believe in the TRE method of de-restriction there are many that do" -Boostbysmith.
I agree with this
The non active ones change the 1st gear timing maps that idle quality and AFR can really suffer. (I may be able to find one in the trash if any one wants one ;) )
http://www.boostbysmith.com/gipro.html (http://www.boostbysmith.com/gipro.html)
This is the best of the best. Very nice to have a gear indicator as well! That way ya KNOW your in six gear going just shy of "Ludicrous speed"
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Just not alot of place you can run 90+. Too many pine trees here.
Do they grow in the middle of the highways??
;D ;D ;D
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http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=148769.new#new (http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=148769.new#new) Read this. Info straight from boostbysmith(smithabusa)
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well your busa stuff may likely be very different... for my particular engine, clipping the wire at the ecu is the worst thing.. the ecu no longer gets the clutch signal.. clipping it at the ecu is the same as leaving it unhooked.. also, you dont need the ecu wire to start the engine, it is just a normal on off switch to a relay on the starter solenoid, but it has the lead off to the ecu aslo for signal... its been proven this affects preformance.. so either go by someones word, or facts.. :)
as far as tre's go. it makes sense you would get the governer.. alot of folks still use them. my friend put one in his 05 gsxr1000 and said very noticable difference..
ok i think i just had a blast of understanding..... clipping the ecu wire, will basically make the ecu think the clutch is out, as in normal driving in gear!!!! correct??? so clipping it, and have the clutch wires jumpered to activate the relay, would still make the ecu think the clutch is out for normal operration... or does it need to have a ground signal? or what? confusing now.
edit #2 going over the harness again... the ecu clutch wire gets absolutely nothing untill the clutch is pulled in.. basically when clutch is not engaged it is an open wire... so clipping it off retains the clutch open position, while jumpering the clutch wires will allow the relay to activate to crank the engine.. but the relay wire on the oposite side of the clutch wire also runs to the ecu, just then what???
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No it still needs the clutch wires jumpered but not connected to the ecu. DId you read the info I posted the link to? I'll go by what smithabusa says before I'll take your word if that's what you mean. ;D ;D
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LOL!!! Glad you edited your post.
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it was still advisable by several race teams, suzuki itself, and dyno testing that jumpering the clutch wires will affect preformance....but this is with the ecu wire still attatched to the clutch... so clipping the wire would provide a normal operation of the engine then? correct?
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Correct.
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what an effing mess!!! cant believe i didnt catch that!!!
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I find myself running in circles with this stuff. I always have to refer to www.suzukihayabusa.org for info from those that know.
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I actually had been told this before and that's why I jumpered the clutch wires. I had forgotten the part about clipping tihe clutch wire at the ecu. Thanks vdc for bringing this topic up as it has saved me some ass scratching. ;) ;D ;D
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oh so you didnt have the clutch ecu cut? well good then!!! thought i ran you in circles for nothing. drowning
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You hit it on the head. Hadn't cut the ecu wire.
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And DAMN GLAD I hadn't! ;D ;D I got to thinking WHY had I not cut it? It's because I had gotten this little jewel.
http://www.healtech-electronics.com/download/GIPRO-ATRE_Intro_en.pdf (http://www.healtech-electronics.com/download/GIPRO-ATRE_Intro_en.pdf)
eyes eyes eyes Told ya I can't remember crap. ;D
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how much was that? i want one. also, that needs the clutch ecm wire?
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$160ish. Direct plug in install inline with GPS with one 12V+connection.
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I actually bought it just for the GPI as I finf it hard to keep track of what gear I'm running in and am always looking for "just one more" than I have. LOL!!!!
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im always grabbing for 7th gear..lol
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WE HAVE POWER!!!
I was in the midst of hooking up switches when i decided to hook up a battery.. turned key.. gauge came on, hit starter button and engine cranked.. yay!!!! of course i left the fuel pump unhooked, didnt wanna damage the pump running it dry. also wired up headlights and they work. im excited. gott buy new oil & filter, coolant, routing the rest of my wiring, dissasemble, final weld, reassemble, and fire the bitch up!!!!!!
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HELL YEA!
jj:
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WE HAVE POWER!!!
I was in the midst of hooking up switches when i decided to hook up a battery.. turned key.. gauge came on, hit starter button and engine cranked.. yay!!!! of course i left the fuel pump unhooked, didnt wanna damage the pump running it dry. also wired up headlights and they work. im excited. gott buy new oil & filter, coolant, routing the rest of my wiring, dissasemble, final weld, reassemble, and fire the bitch up!!!!!!
.....and head to LS in September........................
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one dilema... no truck or trailer... well i could possibly talk my dad and his gf into pulling there rig down there... with buggy on their trailer.. we will see when time comes.. my buggy is shit compared to your guy's....
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one dilema... no truck or trailer... well i could possibly talk my dad and his gf into pulling there rig down there... with buggy on their trailer.. we will see when time comes.. my buggy is shit compared to your guy's....
If you got the rear end gremlin fixed and it can be ridden you will have a lot of fun reguardless. I have both rode in and seen many "things" in the dunes that were not what we all dream of but were still a ton of fun smiles to buzz around in!
Even a mini van can pull a little trailer with a mini buggy! And give you a place to lay down in!
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+1+1+1
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one dilema... no truck or trailer... well i could possibly talk my dad and his gf into pulling there rig down there... with buggy on their trailer.. we will see when time comes.. my buggy is shit compared to your guy's....
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Every one starts some where. some do start at the top because they can but have much less fun then those that have done there own. If it can put a smile on your face then it's all good,
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Load it up and bring it! Drove my piece 'ol crap all week long. rofl If I come alone I will drive my van and sleep in it. No camper. And for Wanoka being a tiny little town, they got more buggy crap/parts than most any place.
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Congrats on the power.
Little story on mine is not as nice. My last car was not much to look at. Old school mid travel beam car. I run with a lot of folks with nice, very nice cars. When they would drive my little car they always said the same thing - "I over bought." They actually envied my little car because it was plain and simple - FUN. It's about the fun and smiles, not the cost or beauty.
Remember, weather it is women, buggies or cash - somewhere, somebody always has something better or more. Be happy and proud of what you have. Don't get caught in the other game.
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thanks.
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we got lights! cant wait to add two more.
also these are the guide rails for my tensioner sprocket.
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Congrats on the power.
Little story on mine is not as nice. My last car was not much to look at. Old school mid travel beam car. I run with a lot of folks with nice, very nice cars. When they would drive my little car they always said the same thing - "I over bought." They actually envied my little car because it was plain and simple - FUN. It's about the fun and smiles, not the cost or beauty.
Remember, weather it is women, buggies or cash - somewhere, somebody always has something better or more. Be happy and proud of what you have. Don't get caught in the other game.
Damn right. Build/buy/modify ,whatever, as best you can and be happy. Happy that you CAN do what you have done. Many cannot. Let THEM be jealous.
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should be ready to start and drive in the next day or so.
couple crappy cell phone pics.
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I LOVE the spray paint jack stand! Vroom vroom!!!!!
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oh come on..lol. it was balancing on a hair, until going to weld.. so that paint was laying there.. just stuck it under..lol not really any weight on it.
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LOL!!! I'll use just about anything myself.
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I only have a few minutes here and there for the forum lately. I make sure to catch up on the Voodoo files. Paint can is awesome dude ! PROOF that anyone can learn something from this thread. Thanks for posting Voodoo. Best of luck with finishing it up ;D ;D
as I started to hit the post button, it hit me. Are these things ever REALLY done ? Do we ever REALLY stop spending money on these things ? lol see ya guys
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Mig welding over an aerosal can now thats nuggets :o
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fuel pump doesnt kick on.. gets 12 volts when key is turned on, for like 5 seconds then relay cuts power.. wires from battery to pump also make no difference.. pump supposedly worked fine when i bought it. now doesnt.. what can i do?
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It's not the pump for sure. Hell ,it's been so long now I'm not sure but check out your side stand switch. I THINK it has to be grounded if you deleted it.Gotta be on the road today. I'll try to remember what it is for sure. Don't get panicked and go looking for a different pump. 99% positive your pump is good.
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but i jumpered the pump directly to the battery.. should run.. doesnt.
this bitch is ready to drive other than putting seats in.. and right now.. 200$ more!!!! for a pump is not something im gonna do.. it will sit if it has to.. how does a fuel pump work for someone else.. then just doesnt? its a dang electric motor-and pump...
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but i jumpered the pump directly to the battery.. should run.. doesnt.
this bitch is ready to drive other than putting seats in.. and right now.. 200$ more!!!! for a pump is not something im gonna do.. it will sit if it has to.. how does a fuel pump work for someone else.. then just doesnt? its a dang electric motor-and pump...
Voodoo
How long has the pump set with out any fuel in it? Could it have got a little moister (water) in it and be locked up? The only other reason would be it has built up it's max pressure and turned off.
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Ground? How does it ground.
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grounds through the wiring harness to the body of the pump. but hooking straight to 12volts doesnt make it work... never turned on at all.. not getting any codes on the gauge.
it sat for maybe a year- in a zip lock bag. im gonna pull the pump out and take a look.. i mean it comes down to the basics, its an electric motor foremost-
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W D 40 and a rubber hammer. Works for me. :D
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yea? should i disassemble the pump unit?
one other thing.. when i hooked wires to + and - to direct wire to battery.. it sparks when touching to battery.. so obviously power is getting through the motor.. possible just locked up? coroded up? pump may be gummed with gas?
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I would go with gummed up. Spray some wd 40 in it and let it set for a while. Anytime a fuel pump sets it drys up and corode's up real quick. I would say no need to take apart.
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ok ill try that first. in my service manual there is a photo section on fuel pump disassembly to replace orings, bushings, clean filter. im praying that sitting over night and all day in super hot shop, submerged in gas will kick the pump into shape. otherwise its ready for "rebuilt maiden voyage".. gearing is low, top speed is only like 98 or 103 or something, only had a 13tooth front in the shop as oppossed to the 15 tooth i need for the gearing i want.. should effin rip!!!!
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Good luck on the pump. I would let set in WD40. or two stroke oil. Somthing to lube it to.
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Might try a lil plastic tub and submerging the pump end in carb or fuel injector cleaner. Dunno if that would work better than Wd-40 for this?
My buddy used to swear by using diesel to clean old gas.
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+1 to all above.
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well even if motor is bad.. electric motors can be rebuilt.. and my dads friend runs a business doing just that.. :D
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Are you sure there is actually a problem with the pump? If it runs for a few seconds and then a relay shuts it off, it could be a problem with something else. Not familiar with your engine, but I worked on a CBR a couple months ago that wouldn't pump unless the engine was being cranked over. It operated of the ignition coils. Your's could be something like the ECU isn't getting the signal that it's OK to run. Chip in the key or something. Like I said, not familiar with your engine.
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i straight wired the pump to a battery.. completely off any bike harness. pump doesnt run. pump never runs while connected to buggy, and i dont get any trouble codes. correct resistor in key circuit also.. i've isolated it to the pump having an issue, because hard wiring it to a 12 volt batter should spin the pump motor and it doesnt. but other people have issues where pump runs hard wired and not while connected to harness, then it would be one of tyhose issues.
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From your info your wiring is OK and functioning correctly. Soak the pump and see.
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i know my wiring is good. with the test on the harness end of the pump plug, turn key on, relay clicks, 12.65 volts to pump, 5 seconds relay clicks and volts cut out to zero. so its functioning correctly.lol
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Yup.
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took fuel pump apart.. all the way down to the motor/pump.. it was trying to spin but wouldnt.. soaked it in wd40.. still wouldnt turn.. crusted up good. i decided to open the motor up. bent the tabs out and pulled the top of the motor off to reveal the imperller... spun freely. turns out corrosion at top of motor shaft and on back plate was causing it to not spin.. ok pump spins great now!!! hook it all back up. gas come out fuel line when tank is in normal position.. WTF!!!!! took pump back out checked all orings/ great condition.. reassemlbe.. same deal.. hook it up anyways and try to start... nothing, pump runs for 2 seconds and shuts off. i have a feeling its not building any pressure and that the ecu shuts it off not detecting any pressure. for shits and giggles, sprayed starting fluid and motor fired up long enough to burn out starting fluid. im pissed. i dont wanna buy a new pump.
edit: the pump motor in the suzuki fuel pump is actually a mitsibishi pump.. i searched mitsibishi fuel pump on ebay.. and boy did i find a suprise.. check out the link.. these pumps are in hundreds of vehicles, and they look EXACTLY like the pump in the gsxr unit
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shit forgot to post link
pump (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1991-1992-MITSUBISHI-MIGHTY-MAX-ELECTRIC-FUEL-PUMP-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ140435104377QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
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And for the $8 I hope you just bought one. My carbs were that way, white crusty crap. Still not perfect.
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And for the $8 I hope you just bought onetwo. My carbs were that way, white crusty crap. Still not perfect.
;)
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im not 100% sure they are physically the same size..
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ok everything is good.. bought a 2007 gsxr600 pump from a local bike salvage, had the listing on ebay. went and picked it up.. basically same pump, looks more updated. instead of a thermosistor for the fuel light, it has a float.. hmmm.. betteR? usable?
1. SHOULD I PULL IT APART AND JUST USE THE MOTOR/PUMP?
2. KEEP THE ENTIRE NEW PUMP AND JUST SPLICE MY CONNECTOR ON IT??
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Can't say for sure but either way should work.
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ok.. this mother trucker is running tonite!!!!!!!
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Get a liteweight trailer done in the next 30 days and get your ass to LS then!
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nothing, pump runs for 2 seconds and shuts off. i have a feeling its not building any pressure and that the ecu shuts it off not detecting any pressure.
FWIW, the ecu does this to prime the fuel system during power-up, it should run constant during crank.
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yea, it does run while cranking.. but the pump is not building pressure.. i broke it some how taking it apart.. its those tinkering genes i was born with.
good for parts.. i may just order one of those 8$ pumps on ebay and fix the broekn one for a spare.
thanks enemy, how is two seconds long enough to fill the fuel rail to 43psi?
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Unless its been a while since you started, or you have a leak (pressure) it should have some pressure already. System probably holds a cup only and would only take a little more gas to reach pressure.
Get it running and bring yer butt to LS. ;D ;D
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it doesnt pump fuel lol.. i broke it. doesnt matter because i bought a new one today..
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How wide is your buggy?
I have a trailer you can use
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oh shit.. i dont know off hand. not more than 5ft...
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well.... i wish i could come on here and say that all went well, everything worked and the engine runs great....
so i think i will.. everything worked out. heres how it went. the new fuel pump originally is mounted 180* from how my year mounts, so the float would be against the back of the tank on mine, due to needing the fule outlet on the drivers side. I noticed on my new pump it has bosses for mounting the thermosistor from my old pump on the new one. so got it in the tank- on the bike- went to start it and cranked for ever. wouldnt start. using starting fluid i was getting it to fire on #4 cylinder. i was about to give up and decided to check the spark plugs. Pulled them out and seen sticky gunk on them. of course- old gas. i figured the fule injecters were probably gummed and shot. I decided to spray carb cleaner down the throttle bodies and let it sit for a few minutes. when i hit the starter button it sputtered. So again carb cleaner down throttle bodies and this time held pedal to floor and started it.. this time it fired off and revved up. roughly though! after a minute of running, varying the rpms it smoothed out! i turned the idle up and now its smooth as a kitten and rockets the rpms like crazy. fires right off when hitting the buttom too!!! best part about all this? i did wiring once and so far have not have to change antything or had an issues with it!!!
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COOL!!!! I HOPE I'm as lucky in a few days.
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yea but your wiring looks way way more complicated that mine
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Just a tad more. I also have a bunch of electronic BS I've added . I will say it's the most complete/complicated wiring I've ever done. GAWD,I hope I haven't pulled some FUBAR in it.
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short phone video of it running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgjQmLUF0Cw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgjQmLUF0Cw)
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short phone video of it running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgjQmLUF0Cw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgjQmLUF0Cw)
Dam Voodoo Don't that make your day. All the time and worry just go's away when it fire's and run's like that. Puts that warm fuzzy feeling in you. Hi five to you. jj: hh:
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OHHH.. MY...GOD!!!!! its so damn fast.. its a rocket. we got over excited and cruised throuhg town.. raced an 04 grand am.. smoked it. insane.. 10$ in fuel and we beat the piss out of it from 7:30pm to 11:30pm...
forgot to charge camera.. so ill get footage tomorrow. went to the truck stop and fueled up. I wish it was street legal. rear shocks were smooth as glass..
also my electric fan locked up.. took it off, never saw temps above 225...
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OHHH.. MY...GOD!!!!! its so damn fast.. its a rocket. we got over excited and cruised throuhg town.. raced an 04 grand am.. smoked it. insane.. 10$ in fuel and we beat the piss out of it from 7:30pm to 11:30pm...
forgot to charge camera.. so ill get footage tomorrow. went to the truck stop and fueled up. I wish it was street legal. rear shocks were smooth as glass..
also my electric fan locked up.. took it off, never saw temps above 225...
HELL YEA VOODOO!!!! That's friggin awesome!
All the time and worry just go's away when it fire's and run's like that. Puts that warm fuzzy feeling in you. Hi five to you. jj: hh:
Fast, ya couldn't of put it ANY better than that!!
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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here is a video.. i just uploaded it.. might not work yet.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LV-NhWXgn-0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LV-NhWXgn-0)
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put on almost 80 trouble free hard miles yesterday.. drove several 15 miles stretches. i guess there is one issue.. my awesome civic radiator has a leak from the bottom, on the very last row of cores, in between the two cores.... it drips.. what a joke!!!
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Looks awesome Voodoo! Sounds nice too.
Not sure how accurate that speedo is though, 160 miles an hour? :o
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put on almost 80 trouble free hard miles yesterday.. drove several 15 miles stretches. i guess there is one issue.. my awesome civic radiator has a leak from the bottom, on the very last row of cores, in between the two cores.... it drips.. what a joke!!!
epoxied radiator construction?
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i dont know??
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Can you silver solder it up?
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Not if it's epoxied already. Most cheap radiators are epoxy construction instead of welded. Much cheaper that way.
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I've heard of the cheap Civic radiators leaking, but your's is the first I know of directly. Sorry to hear it.
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put on almost 130 miles today.. check engine light kept popping..
last two days motor has had a funny sound..sorta gurgaly..... no feel in loss of power..
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seemed like a good place for a picture.. to bad the sun is so bright, and cell phone blows.. ( my cousin driving, and my rear tires look TINY but they are 23")
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finally good pictures..
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Soooo,ya having fun now?
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crappy cell phone video, but its ok
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i0oJ6PajErc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i0oJ6PajErc)
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Just gotta love the minimum maintenance roads in Nebraska ;D
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check out my "sweet" flag!! state patrol pulled up to me the other night and the gas station and ripped my ass, saying he been tailing me for 2 miles and lost me. ha!! says "not on the road! no tail light, no flag! not on the road!" so im assuming since i then put a tail light and flag on, i can drive it on the road??
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keep getting a check engine light because my throttle positioning sensor keeps moving.. i readjust it untill the gauge reads its centered and tighten down really tight.. still moves.
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keep getting a check engine light because my throttle positioning sensor keeps moving.. i readjust it untill the gauge reads its centered and tighten down really tight.. still moves.
You got a throttle stop on that thing? Or are you using the throttle position sensor as a stop?
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Sensor will not act as a stop. The TPS is finicky at best. If you adjust idle speed you will have to reset TPS.
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TPS is on the end of the throttle shaft, it does not act as a stop.. it just tells the ecu where the throttle is to help determine the correct amount of fuel to give.. i have not touched the idle screw. i just keep having to adjust the damn thing..and right away it goes off center.. always to the high side.. still runs great though.
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Sometimes it just does that. If I were you I'd check out SH.org and see if they have a fix. It's a busa site but the tps info will be common to your issue.
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Have you pulled the TPS off to see if it is broke?
I have seen them on cars where the part inside that enguages the throttle shaft is broke (mating surfaces) and the throttle shaft can only spin it one way easily.
I aint messed with the fuel injected bikes enough to know how they are connected (TPS to throttle shaft). But it could be a similair issue?
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Sure could be.
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a flag tail light and under a certain speed ya you can but you better have a tool of some sort to work on implement equipment so when they pull you over your heading to the field to check a baler or combine! ;D I don't know about your county but here it's a $25 fine if I get caught on the county roads and probably the same or more if I enter into an discussion with the peace officer again! rofl
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thats why you dont stop.
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just so you guys know... cv grease WILL deteriorate your tires!!! also, nothing fixes small holes or tears in cv boots, like high temp black silicone.. clean boot with carb cleaner and clean cloth.. smear silicone generously over hole and surrounding area.. both my inboard boots have patched holes for over a year now.. and just last week had to repair a 1/4" long tear in new cv boot.. holding like a champ!!!!
the silicone im talking about, looks like grey thick paste.. not the shiney thin black silicone stuff.
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My lights.. they are plenty sufficient.. two 55watt holgens (might try 100w).. and two led strips.
how do i figure the total load on my charging system? also how do i upgrade the capacity of my charging system?
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just so you guys know... cv grease WILL deteriorate your tires!!! also, nothing fixes small holes or tears in cv boots, like high temp black silicone.. clean boot with carb cleaner and clean cloth.. smear silicone generously over hole and surrounding area.. both my inboard boots have patched holes for over a year now.. and just last week had to repair a 1/4" long tear in new cv boot.. holding like a champ!!!!
the silicone im talking about, looks like grey thick paste.. not the shiney thin black silicone stuff.
Just add the amp draw of each light to each other and see how many extra amps you will draw over stock light. Upgrading a MC charging system is iffy at best. Most stators are capable of providing a few extra amps with a custom regulator/rectifier such as a busa has a 40 amp reg/rec available. I had a custom 50 amp one made but haven't tested it out yet to see if the stator has any problem with that output.
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The conversion of Watts to Amps is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts
For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp
50 watts / 12 volts = 4.17 amps. 4.17 * 2 = 8.33 amps.
LEDs should be marked on their amp draw? Or figure watts per bulb times total bulbs, then math from above.
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my two big lights are 55watts each--so thats a 9.1 amp draw.. need to figure my fan in and led lights. so i want my total to be under what the bike charging system is able to do right? other wise its gonna be a drain on my system?
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Yep pretty much. But does the fan run ALL the time or only in spurts?
It might take a lil out of the battery while the lights are all on and the fan running btu when the fan cuts out a good charging system ought to be able to replenish what the battery lost.
Provided the lights leave enough left to do so.
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You also have some draw fromthe fuel pump and the FI and sensors.
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can i use a multi meter to determine the total amps drawn?
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Use something like this
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There ya go. Clamp on ammeter. Most multimeters only handle 10 amps.
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sneak peak at whats going on lately...... :D extremely shortened rack (compared to before) 10" pivot to pivot.. center is 6" with a 2.25 turns end to end. got 1.125 turns from center to end.
arm in jig.
newly made arms.
some perfect tabs.
old front end with shock hoops.
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two more I found.. my geometry is off.. my wheels tilt out a bit as i go into bump from droop.. oh well, did before to, just more noticable now that i have tons of travel.
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looks good.may have rebuild the front of the one we are building.
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two more I found.. my geometry is off.. my wheels tilt out a bit as i go into bump from droop.. oh well, did before to, just more noticable now that i have tons of travel.
You can probably correct that with a bit of rearranging of the mounting points
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yea thats all it is.. the mounts need to be about 2" closer to correct it. but it was like that before and i liked how it handled. ill leave it for now.. if for some reason its not good, ill lower the top arm.
ive had reverse ackerman due to using my front steer atv spindles, as rear steer.. i wanna correct this by moving my tie rod mount on the spindle, since i cant move to front steer due to the rack im using. any tips on how to get it correct?
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some more pics.
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few more pictures from today.... we temporarily mounted the shocks, and with two of us standing on the sides, it sank maybe 1" from full droop... thats toooo stiff right? hows the shock angle look? to verticle? the way the shock is in the picture, it will be about 90* to the arm and full bump..
dont mind the pile of dust and sunflower shells under it.. thats where we swept it to lol.
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took it for a drive.. i think i need some softer springs.. its really really good, and 100 times better than the old bottoming out shit.. but it doesnt sink hardly at all when we get in. i dont like ride height being almost full droop.
hit some small jumps that used to thrash the front end into the ground and sand blast our faces, at pretty fast speeds and not problems.. didnt come close to bottoming out. !!!
rack is super solidly moutned now.. also have two u-joints in my steering now. no more scishcabob..
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Good to see!
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Got any video? :D
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not yet, just finished sunday night, pouring rain all day monday!! i got some new presents for it in the mail today.. they might go on later tonite or tomorrow night. they'll really brighten up the future for this buggy............
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how heavy is the front end? I only ask because of the angle of those lower shock mounts might wind up twisting the tube loose over time. if it's light probably not a problem, just keep an eye on it. either than that nice job so far.
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yea good point.. i was thinking about that while i was deciding where to put the shocks. i was thinking of puttin a plate across the bottom to tie it all in... and thanks!!
not sure about the weight.. i cant pick and hold the front end up, due to the pivot being the rear wheels all the way in the back.. put jack stands about a foot foward from the rear tires and i can lift the front end one handed. so as far as numbers go.. no idea. shock tabs are 1/4" fully circle the cross tube, tube is 5/32".
where would be a good place to gusset or brace those?
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anywhere that will support the down force. if they are allowed to full extend then gusset for the opposite as well. imo if you could move them so at full droop the tab was following the centerline of the shock that would be better in this case then figure out what angle at full compression and gusset accordingly.
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New 6500K HID lights. to replace my 55watt halogens.
the crappy cell phone pics dont do these lights justice.. they are super bright.. the buggy is about 30ft back from the wall in the one picture, and it was lighting up the entire shop, stupid cell phone camera.
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decided my front was too stiff.. so i made some temporary mounts to lean the shocks in over 10degrees. fell WAY better.. we took it out jumping and ripped up some nasty sand trails today.. only a few short crappy quality videos for ya.. but some pictures before we took off..
and then i got bored tonite and whipped this up from a picture i took earlier of my cars.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEqEuAKkzOU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEqEuAKkzOU)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9OCtQkLPLg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9OCtQkLPLg)
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Ya know what Voo? I think you have made more progress gaining fab skills than any other member here. I gotta admit that early on there were more than a few pm's about you and what you were doing. They weren't very flattering either. BUT ,FWIW,I think that if you ever decide to start another from scratch we will see a very nice buggy come from it. Congrats on accomplishing what you have with what you have had to work with. BTDT many times myself. Fine job.
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THANKS!!
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some photo working.
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updates, posted these elsewhere, but figured id update the build log.
bought some 12" stroke fox 2.0 airs.
23x7-10 carlisle at tires (brand new with deep tread, but picture looks used)
10x7 ITP aluminum rims
Matching hubs with honda taper, so they fit on my current ball joints!!
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a flag tail light and under a certain speed ya you can but you better have a tool of some sort to work on implement equipment so when they pull you over your heading to the field to check a baler or combine! ;D I don't know about your county but here it's a $25 fine if I get caught on the county roads and probably the same or more if I enter into an discussion with the peace officer again! rofl
So that keeps you off the roads right!
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So that keeps you off the roads right!
what do you think!! lol
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been pretty depressed with the knee deep snow and below freezing temps for the last few months.. but deicided to work on my steering rack today.. my old one broke from a small wreck we had, so i bought another one to modify and assemble with my already made internals. also made new tie rods today. the main difference between the new and old housings, you can see where the old one broke on the tube and the mounting points. the new one is an aluminum tube where end is machined down, and the main mounting is steel body.
for the new tie rods i took some hex stock, bored it out and tapped it. Also counter bored about .25" to fit over the new tubing & welded. got about an 1" of threads now instead of a jamb nut welded on the end.
now that i have FREE full access to a machine shop I can make some nicer parts as oppossed to cobbled together stuff....
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did you get the shocks on yet?
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I guess hes still cuddling with them to stay warm. Man I was in Basement the same night.
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ya I don't doubt you were cause your not a 4 play kind of guy!!!! rofl rofl LMAO LMAO rofl rofl
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Talkin to wife huh? ;D
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rofl
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havnt touched buggy.. right after i got the shocks.. it froze up tight here.. and we were in the middle of replacing furnace in the shop.. so no heat.. sucks dick..
sry brian, i was in a rush to get them and get them on!! lol but other things happened aside from the cold to that kinda held me away from buggy..
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just wondering
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got my new front hubs on and new steering box all done.
got fox shocks mounted but it just sinks to the ground at 200psi... need to get more nitrogen added tomorrow.
found one of my rear aluminum rims is cracked and cracking all the way around the inside mounting plate.. im guessing its from the monster ruts and huge sliding turns we had been doing the last few days we drove it. soo im on the lookout for new rims and tires.. id like to go 12" rims..
i can get an exact 10" aluminum rim like i have, for like 10$ and have the bolt pattern drilled for free.. but im wondering if i want to use a bandaid solution untill they crack again.. or if i wanna fix it now..
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Dang glad to see you haven't froze solid. Back at it, its non stop bs1. Grab a tent and bring your butt down for the spring LS trip. 2 months to goooooooo!!
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cousin got an 82 chevy 1-ton dually diesel car hauler... so it maybe a go this time around..
btw... my radiator i had bought last year and have been using all year.. had a small leak in the end 2rows of cores... 15$ got it epoxied and pressure tested...
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Grab a tent and bring your butt down for the spring LS trip. 2 months to goooooooo!!
+1 ;D ;D ;D
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so i got my shocks filled to 300psi.. buggy sinks about 5inches when i let it off the jack.. i think it needs about 25lbs maybe 50 more... normally id say it was about pewrfect... but since im lacking ground clearance in the rear i kinda need it to ride almost at max droop.
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Voods,
Unless you pop for the >190 wheels they will always be cracked ...And even then they will crack in a year or 2 of hard riding...Buggys are too heavy and produce too much sideload on ATV wheels
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what do you mean by 190 wheels?
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.190 thick .
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Ya they make 3 grades of wheels...120...160...and 190...120, 160 are junk...will hold up to a light use quab
But just to lite for a buggy
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i dont even know anything about wheels.. other than i want some that will work..
if anyone can help that would be great... i havent seen anyhting about the thicknesses while searching for wheels to buy these last 2 days
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When I use to ride my 2 stroke quad on MX track some of the top guys (I was a hack) Used the .190 wheels and had reinforcment rings welded inside. They were breaking the disc part the hub bolts to away from the actual wheel part. If you want to stay alum youll have to go to the thicker, or pick up some steel ones.
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i dont even know anything about wheels.. other than i want some that will work..
if anyone can help that would be great... i havent seen anyhting about the thicknesses while searching for wheels to buy these last 2 days
Try asking.
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asking for help or asking the thickness?
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what is everyone else using?
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asking for help or asking the thickness?
Ask the manufacturers for details and recommendations. We have already given you the info we have. Most ally wheels are too light for buggies. I have every confidence tho that DWT.190 thick ally wheels will be good for you. You won't like the price but......................you get what you pay for. DO not use the thinner ones tho no matter who makes them.
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For me in the beginning...20 some years ago...I put up with the wheel breakage...But as wheel technology increase I found that Douglas .190's..the industry standard weren't near as durable as the James lucky wheels...even tho the james lucky's started out as a douglas wheel before modification
I dunno if that made sence...
This sounds stupid and goes against what we know about wheels...But I think if your going to stay with atv wheels you might want to look into a cast wheel...As a rule of thumb on larger car type wheels spun is a lighter...stronger wheel...but we aren't talking about cars wheels
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Mine are 12" cast alum wheels. They are stamped max 275lb. My buggy weights in at 850 empty. pushing 1200 with 2 peeps. Keep a look out, usually can pickup some takeoff from a big 4x4 quad. The should survive.
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thanks for the info!!!
what do those race buggies use? they beat the piss outta those things.. change wheels every so often? lol.
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I'd go with steel myself.
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Douglas makes 3 different thicknesses of aluminum rim. As spec said, the .190 is the thickest, its also called the RED LABEL. the 3 different thickness options have three different color labels.
I think the thinnest is the white or yellow, the middle one is a blue label and the .190 is also known as the Red Label. Hope that helps.
ONNNNNN the other hand, the stronger aluminum rims you can get that somone else mentioned are the cats meow, and still a lot lighter than steel and will let you get the most out of your suspension where as a steel wheel cuts down on the action due to the wieght bouncing up and down. below are two sites I have bought from and had great luck with. Motosport makes it's own line of rim and they hold up pretty well. It can be rocky here and I know a few people that have them and do fine.
http://www.motosport.com/atv/category/Tire-and-Wheels/Wheels/?tid=true (http://www.motosport.com/atv/category/Tire-and-Wheels/Wheels/?tid=true)
the page I copied is the general rim page but you can back track through the website and search by size or brand, etc, etc/ and the people that answer the phones are super helpful there.
the other one is
http://www.4atvtires.com/atvTires/showCategory.php?id=739&shortcut=ATV_WHEELS_FOR_SPORT_ATVS_739 (http://www.4atvtires.com/atvTires/showCategory.php?id=739&shortcut=ATV_WHEELS_FOR_SPORT_ATVS_739)
the ss112 rim on that page is a sweet rim also.
like I said, I've used both companies and had good experiences. hope that helps, not to mention they make your buggy look faster when its sittin still. Gotta love that
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thanks ill check it out.
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bought some ITP C7 12"x7" rims with 2+5 backspacing.. very thick cast aluminum..
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Those should be a tad stronger. ;D
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ok got the shocks mounted.. all the front hub stuff done.. just need to bleed brakes and tighten bolts..
you will notice that the drivers side shock mount is alot longer than the passenger side. this is due to not measuring things in the beggining. so the rear upper frame of my buggy is not centered.. the bottom shock mounts are all good, and both shocks are at 74degrees.. stupid crooked ass frame.
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Front looks good, nice and clean. Think I would have made the rear upper shock mounts the same, little increased angle probably be less noticeable. Looks aside that long mount has a crap load more leverage, making it easier to tear out. But someone once said, chrome wont get you home, so looks dont matter as much as reliability.
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it woulda been at 60 degrees had i made the mounts the same length.. thats 14degrees more angle.. that makes a good bit of difference on leverage forces at the wheel.. i didnt want funky handling...
im gonna brace those mouths in more for sure before i drive it.
shocks are at 400 psi and i think thats gonna be good.
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pictures from today, ready to take it for a ride.. but the snow thawed and made it muddy out.. not my cup of tea...
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Looks like your ready to "go and tear some bark loose" LOL!
Looking forward to meeting up with you at LS. ;D ;D ;D
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ah you really need to brace those rear upper shock mounts or they will rip off! weld a tube between them ( the 2 tabs ) and another off it down to the frame should work.
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yea no doutb, i totally plan on adding bracing.. just left it like that so i could get my psi in the shocks right..
id love to go to LS.. i have the means.. is there available hotels?
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is there available hotels?
There's one in Waynoka, but I've heard it's a $HIT HOLE, but don't know to sure. The closest good hotels are in Alva, OK, which is 37 miles to the north on the dunes. 8) 8) 8)
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Call the wood guy there in LS. Clark Bliss. His wife has some bunkhouses for rent. If they are not full. I don't have there number on me at the moment. Nice and clean. and you can ride to and from there to the dunes.
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You'd be better sleeping on the train tracks than a Waynoka no tell motel. LMAO LMAO LMAO Hell probably be room on one of the camp sites to throw a tent on. The baths and showers a Cowboy are fairly nice, food and drinks are great, and the chance to meet some of these guys is worth the trip.
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how much is it to get into the riding area place or whatever?
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side note, heres a photoshop of my cts i did.. im kinda thinking about repainting it now.
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$10 a day. But their not usally out there Mon-Wed unless its busy. Crap, I still owe the cute one $10. ;D rofl ;D
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yea no doutb, i totally plan on adding bracing.. just left it like that so i could get my psi in the shocks right..
id love to go to LS.. i have the means.. is there available hotels?
at cowboy camp grounds all you need is a tent and a cooler, the bathrooms and showers work just fine and there are water hydrants in the stalls but you don't want to drink the water so bring plenty of bottled water. you can drive to the fuel station as well and you can also buzz fabbr and fast's camp site ( in your buggy ) on your way to the resturant in town if you don't feel like cooking but I hear they might be delivering to the camp sites now so i might have to try that out once!
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might be a possibility i make it this time then...
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How come you only have 5 lug wheels on you Caddy?
I count 6 on mine. ;)
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It might not be a Caddy, prob a 4x4 ford ranger pickup. Voodoo is just good with photoshop. ;D ;D
LMAO LMAO LMAO rofl LMAO LMAO LMAO
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i can go snap a picture with my face next to it..lol 5 lugs.. onlything i photoshopped is the color.. look them up on google... 5lug..
edit: ok ok... its because yours is a cts-v right??? i count six lugs on those... mine is just a regular cts, but with the sport suspension package (17" wheels and upgraded brakes) hahah. my next purchase is an 04-07 cts-v which still have the ls6... not sure if im into the lower rpm range of the northstar..... unless i can find a decently priced XLR (i love those)
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'04-'05 V's have the 5.7 LS6. '06 -'07 have the 6.0 LS2. Same power rating but bottom end on the LS2 is a little stronger. Mine is an '06. They have their issues, but it's a great machine.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi29.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fc278%2FDavephoto%2F000_2055.jpg&hash=60c6471261fc5b761262d19eb8047e3cd7e5c0a0)
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Those would make nice buggies.
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;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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you 100% sure about the 06-07 only being LS2's??? seen several that say ls6 in the advertisement
definitely a sweet ride, 400hp stock.. either cadillac cts-v or XLR will be my next car purchase... been wanting an 04 z06 for quite a while but seems like prices fluxuate so much from year to year.. one year you can find them for 17... the next the avg is 25... BS
heres some XLR pics.. i love it.
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you 100% sure about the 06-07 only being LS2's???
yep.
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i ordered a pair of 25x10-12 kenda bear claw tires for my new rims.. they will arrive on the 31st.
my current ones are 22x12-10... apparently once you go to 12" rims, 12" wide tires become very expensive.
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ok got my tires, got one mounted. the other rim is at my cousins shop with my wheel hubs getting the bolt pattern changed on the hubs... figured it was smarter to change the hubs, that way these wheels can always be sold and i will have many more wheels to choose from than i did before.
new wheels and tires. 25x10-12 actually measure 9" wide...
old wheels and tires. 22x12-10 actually measure 11" wide...
also bought the two master cylinders from transman.
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Cool! 8) 8) 8)
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haha, now its a new page and no one can see my wheels!! refer to the last page to check out my new wheels and tires please..
also new master cylinders.
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so hey, does that caddy of yours jump as well as your buggy ? eyes
I'm juss sayin
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you'd think so sometimes with the way my drive turns into grand canyon after rain storm.. ridiculous
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went riding today, nothing heavy just some road cruising. dropped my new hubs off at my cousins shop to get the bolt pattern changed to 4x110 or 115.... to fit my new rims. still havnt gotten the shock brackets braced in... i will get that done.
took pictures next to the del sol so you can see how small this buggy really is. (its tiny compared to DS's cars)
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did some more work the past 2 days.. started changing my hubs from 5x4.75" to 4x110mm to accomodate my new rims. pressed the hubs apart, welded all the stud holes. indicated it in the mill. worked out my x and y points... and went to town.. only got one done though. 2nd one might be monday.
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Also started mounting my new master cylinders today.. kinda getting somewhere with them.
the last couple pics.. that linkage is for testing the rig... gonna make bushings for the final linkage tube.
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I gotta ask. Why the 2 cylinders mounted with 1 pedal? You're going to have issues due to the different swept volumes of the front/rear wheel cylinders. In other words only the end that pressurizes first will work. If you insist on doing that you will need a bias bar between them.
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well shit.. didnt even think of that... i was just gonna use a proportioning valve one which ever one wanted to lock up first... that wont work?
bias bar as in something i can make? like a swaying link between the two rods and my pedal link in the middle.. so when one gets pressue and stops moving, the other can keep moving?
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If your running those single piston Atv fronts and single brake one or two piston in rear, one of those masters should lock 'em up. Could T them back together run all them brakes off one line, using prop valve for the rear. Backwards, yes but building a buggy means we like to do shit the hard way.
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well shit.. didnt even think of that... i was just gonna use a proportioning valve one which ever one wanted to lock up first... that wont work?
bias bar as in something i can make? like a swaying link between the two rods and my pedal link in the middle.. so when one gets pressue and stops moving, the other can keep moving?
Prop valve will be useless like that. Yes,that will work. Look up Wilwoods site and see the pics.
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not sure how i didnt think of that being an issue.. i was originally only gonna use one for all brakes.. but figured hell i got two might as well use them..lol but ill figure something out. thanks!!
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Just run the one and a prop valve. Just my .02 .
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yea thats what ill do.
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ReAl cheap at summit rcng website
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i can get a wilwood prop valve at a local dirt track store for 49$ same as on wildwoods site.
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ok switched to the single master cylinder.. and here is the new rig to make it work.. i clamped it in place and it works great!!!
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I seriously hope you are able to work out a way to get to LS. A couple of years ago it would have been so I could get a really good laugh. ;D ;D NOW,I think you will have a blast with likely no issues with your creation. I've said it before and I'll say it again,you and your buggy have improved greatly in the last couple of years and when you build another you will be light years ahead in the results. Congrats,my friend. Hell rent a small uhaul ,put the buggy in it and sleep in it while there.
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my buddys just got back from LS a week ago.. they told me without paddles i wont have fun.....
A friend offered their tahoe and trailer for us to go on the may-trip..
but.. work has no pickup in sight and base wage checks arent cutting it.. money is pretty iffy right now. Im scared to spend, incase business stops. :(
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My motto is,"Live for today,don't let it pass you by as there may be no tomorrow,BUT,at the same time plan for the future." You'll survive the cost of this trip no matter what happens in the short term financially but you will forever regret not spending 750 bux or so doing what you know you really want to experience. Don't let life pass you by . Tell ya what- I have only 2 fears . First is dying without a project in progress in the shop and the second and even more distressing is the prospect that likely I'll have one in progress and it will never be finished. thumb down thumb down Hmmmm,I think I'll tie my sons inheritance to his finishing whatever I'm working on or forfeit his right to the businesses and other assets. rofl ;D ;D No ,wait!!! I think I'm serious. 8) 8) Now I can rest easy. :) :) :) :)
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Tell ya what voo,I'll guarantee you I will cook your burgers and invite you to join us whenever you want for lunch and dinner meals. just bring your burger or whatever you want grilled and breads. I got you covered on the condiments. You'll enjoy fast and his group also . When we bore you to death DS and his group are only about 1/4 mile away on the trail. Get your ass there my friend!
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offer much appreciated wes!!!
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+1 to Master. Family safty, my safty, enjoy life. My plan is to live life with no regrets, not have to be sorry. Local guy was building a 2 mil lake house, heart attack sun, dead. No wife no kids. Just lots of money.
Flip those tires side to side you'll climb every hill there, I did. Do all you can, you'll have a time of your life.
Dueces Wild, I think is $10/night tent camping, anything w/o hookups. You make it down and I'll settle up your bill with Sharon.
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we'll see if work can pick up in the next month.. id really regret having something go wrong with the homestead or my vehicle and then be 700$ short haha..
you guys have no idea how much the offers are appreciated, but I gotta keep an even keel here first.. :D
thanks carl!!
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do what you gotta do and if you make it great if not there's always other trips. I can tell you this though if you don't make it I'm taking all my food over for fabbr to cook!! rofl rofl LMAO
I'm leaving tues night after work, if your going then run down and follow us down since it's you first trip.
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U bring,I cook,I eat. Damn nice offer DS!
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Fabr dont eat much, hes kinda skinny. Ther're be leftovers rofl. Went many of us at Dueces last time, Master and I just ate at Mex rest, prob 4 or 5 times, so not much cooking.
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U bring,I cook,I eat. Damn nice offer DS!
rofl thumb down rofl
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rofl thumb down rofl
DS will have to bring master some cat food! rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
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Correction,HUMAN food.
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And it damn well better not be seafood of any kind. ;) ;D ;D Chicken ain't too high on the list either!
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And it damn well better not be seafood of any kind. ;) ;D ;D Chicken ain't too high on the list either!
Sooooooooooo Your opting out of the Southwest Chicken soup! O goody that will leave more left overs for me. rofl
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I can pick all the other good stuff out ,no problem. All you get more of is the chicken! LOL!!!!!
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HEY! Got an idea. Anyone interested in me bringing a fresh pot of Specs chili for one maybe noon meal? The stuff is GOOD!!!!!
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Gotcha covered Fabr, gonn akidnap Spec on the way. Someone has to do cooking. Shhhhh its top secret. rofl rofl rofl rofl
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sooooo.......any reason I shouldnt use brake lines with AN ends?
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And it damn well better not be seafood of any kind. ;) ;D ;D Chicken ain't too high on the list either!
that's a shame cause I like shrimp, crab legs and lobster from time to time! ;D ;)
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sooooo.......any reason I shouldnt use brake lines with AN ends?
what does an ends have to do with food?! lol ;D
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sooooo.......any reason I shouldnt use brake lines with AN ends?
Nope, but AN ends and fittings are not cheap. 8) 8) 8)
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that's a shame cause I like shrimp, crab legs and lobster from time to time! ;D ;)
+1 I like surf and turf from time to time. ;D ;D ;D
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YUK! Sorry voo but we're talking food . We'll return to your topic soon. LOL!!!!!!!!
(no reason not to use AN stuff if you wish. Oem style stuff is more reliable in reality also)
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well i can get AN lines and fittings fairly cheap from speedway.. waiting on a quote from livewire yet though.. buggy needs brakes... pointless thinking LS, if its not drivable..lol.
i love shrimp & crab legs!!!! best crab legs ive ever had are fairly local.. all you can eat for 20$ big giant goody morsels!!!! and ive eaten many crab legs from many many places..
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I used AN fittings on my front brakes, it was easy. No rear brakes yet, have all the stuff, just not time. Its on my list.
And I'll eat anything, except celery and olives, if it dont eat me 1st. I dont care where it grew up. ;D
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Properly seasoned and cooked even a turd would be good. (for some peeps that is)
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ill beg to differ on that statement.. i dont think you could make a turd taste good..
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I'm betting blindfolded you'd not know the diff between a dry seasoned turd and a meatstick.
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I'm betting blindfolded you'd not know the diff between a dry seasoned turd and a meatstick.
So are you saying that someone has blindfolded you before. rofl rofl rofl rofl
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hahahaha.
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how did we go from good food like sea food to turds! rofl rofl LMAO rofl
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By doing this gg: gg: gg:
Always leads to this :c :c :c
rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
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I'm thinkin maybe just stay at my camp and eat my food. But I do like Spec's Turdy treats. ;D ;D
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So are you saying that someone has blindfolded you before. rofl rofl rofl rofl
WOuldn't work. I don't eat meat sticks. thumb down
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I'm thinkin maybe just stay at my camp and eat my food. But I do like Spec's Turdy treats. ;D ;D
Seee!!! Seeeee!!!! I told you it could be done!!!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
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so i took my rear brake caliper off. its been disconnected for a long time. for some reason i had solid mounted it (not sure why) but dont do that.. so i took my other matching caliper and made a braket that attaches to the caliper, and then bolts to the buggy frame.. not sure if this is gonna work or if its gonna rip the mount off..??? but its now a smoothly floating rear brake.
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Looks like your get in the home stretch on that build.
You still going the try to make it to LS? 8) 8) 8)
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always a possibility.. would be fun. but my luck, the buggy would devestatingly break on the first run..
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SO? I've done that more than once. LOL!!!!
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always a possibility.. would be fun. but my luck, the buggy would devestatingly break on the first run..
And thats how we get a volunteer to cook, watch stuff at camp, work on other rigs. LMAO kick kick LMAO
In all seriousness, most have two seats, many will be solo, and you'd be surprised what all the genius's' can fix when we're all grouped together. ;D prob a law against that much bs1 in a pile.
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That's for sure Carl! If your ride breaks, you do what ever you possibly can to get it going for one more ride out on the sand. I have seen and done quite a few creative repairs over the last 11 years that I've been going down there. In my early days, I spent 6 hours changing a transaxle just so I could get 3 more hours of ride time in at the dunes. 8) 8) 8)
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I USED to do that when I was racing all the time. Now,I just load it up and go to the shop. Getting a bit lazy.
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hell, i and two friends pulled my motor so we could shim it over 1/4" one morning at 7 am and that was before the first ride of the trip! ran out of time to re-assemble the night before so i threw it together and finished it there now that was my first time down ever quite a few years ago. the things we are willing to go through just for a little adrenaline rush!! rofl rofl best drug imo
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brake mount looks good to by the way.
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The things we are willing to go through just for a little adrenaline rush!! rofl rofl best drug imo
Beats the hell out of alcohol and nicotine combined. ;D ;D ;D rofl rofl rofl
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I think I adrenaline rushed out a long time ago. Takes a lot to get it now.
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I ordered my brake lines on friday at 11pm... they arrived in the mail this morning!!! wow fast shipping. excellent item!! price was resonable.
click here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110659597071&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT)
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well got my brake lines ran the other day (still using my old front lines, before i had the new ones)
used my vaccuum bleeder and it worked great this time. put the proportioning valve on the rear line... problem is.. using that 3/4 master cylinder the fronts barely will lock, and the rears wont at all.. so i feel like i wasted my time.. (same result as with the old motorcycle master cylinder).. and wasted money... :(
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Those front calipers, are they single piston? I'd say yes and we, cause I'm in same boat, are asking too much from them. Thats part of why I've not done the rear on mine, dont think its enough caliper.
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single piston atv calipers...never have had a problem locking them up.. with the old master cylinder... only when the rear brake was hooked up it just seemed like the master wasnt enough. thats why i got these new ones.. i just dont think im pushing enought fluid with the single master... shoulda stayed with both and used the dang bias bar...
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well got my brake lines ran the other day (still using my old front lines, before i had the new ones)
used my vaccuum bleeder and it worked great this time. put the proportioning valve on the rear line... problem is.. using that 3/4 master cylinder the fronts barely will lock, and the rears wont at all.. so i feel like i wasted my time.. (same result as with the old motorcycle master cylinder).. and wasted money... :(
Why did you put the proportioning valve on the rear line? I would think that you would want to put it on the front line so you could lock up the rear and keep the fronts form locking up.
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single piston atv calipers...never have had a problem locking them up.. with the old master cylinder... only when the rear brake was hooked up it just seemed like the master wasnt enough. thats why i got these new ones.. i just dont think im pushing enought fluid with the single master... shoulda stayed with both and used the dang bias bar...
You're pushing plenty of fluid.
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even with it on the rear... fully open... neither front nor back lock up.. so putting it on the front now wouldnt matter..
well im not getting anymore air coming through the lines and i pulled a whole big bottle of fluid through the lines.
i can move the prop valve to the front with out a problem.. but right now its not the issue... i put it on the rear because every offroad truck stuff ive done, we put them on the rear, so i assumed thats where i should put it. also- when the rears lock up first thats when the ass end come sliding around.. i thought you wanted your fronts to lock first and then the rears.??
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On a car/truck you put the valve on the rear because there's less weight there and less friction so the tires lock first. It's the opposite on your buggy. It's much more steerable/controlable if the back locks first.
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i see.. well i have no problem moving it to the fronts... but as it sits wide open, neither front nor rear lock.. sooo what could be the problem?
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Trapped air.Not enough stroke. Too low pedal ratio........................ ???????
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OIly or dirty pads or rotors?
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i see.. well i have no problem moving it to the fronts... but as it sits wide open, neither front nor rear lock.. sooo what could be the problem?
How does the pedal feel? Is it spongy? Does it go all most all the way to the bottom before you feel resistance? If it gets hard to push near the top of it's stroke it's not a volume (too small master) issue.
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feels like im pushing a brick wall.. its immediately stiff.. and master maybe right about the pedal ratio.. i was actually gonna make a new pedal assembly with attachments that go lower than my current lowest one.. maybe im just not able to push hard enough with the current ratio.. before we get to far in depth here, let me try that first, since i hate my current brake pedal anyways..lol
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Pedal ratio should be at least 5:1
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Just looking at your test rig you are WAY too high a ratio.
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i have the pull rod on the test rig at the easiest most movement setting.. but on my pedal its not right.. needs to be lower on the pedal arc.
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i pretty much have a 1:1 at the master... but at the pedal the rod is mounted pretty high... i can either change at the pedal (easier) or change at the master which still shouldnt be too hard.. but yea ill do it!!! :) thanks for the brainstorming.
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i pretty much have a 1:1 at the master... but at the pedal the rod is mounted pretty high... i can either change at the pedal (easier) or change at the master which still shouldnt be too hard.. but yea ill do it!!! :) thanks for the brainstorming.
Voodoo, those masters were used on 6.25 to 1 pedal ratio for me. 8) 8) 8)
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im a retard shane.. i dont know how to figure ratios on my contraptions... ha.
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Divide the dimension from pivot to pivot into length from pivot to pedal pad will give pedal ratio.
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thanks. finally got my other hub drilled... something happened while welding the old holes shut and it got super hard. cousin and i couldnt get it drilled at his shop. took it to another machine shop. Got through 3 of the 4 holes needed then he broke 2 carbide bits trying to drill the last one.. finally used something else, but i didnt getta see what kinda bit he used. apparantly your not supposed to weld on cast steel....and then try to drill it. he said normally you would wanna bake it in the oven at 1200degrees over night, then let it cool to 500 and drill it, after welding.
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rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO LMAO Soooooooo,you learned that the hard way too? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
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what not to weld on cast steel?? haha.. anyways.. this 3/8" bit that drilled right through that hard ass shit that the carbides barely touched.. weighed like 2lbs.. it was the heaviest little drill bit ever.. and the grinding wheel wouldnt touch it.. was wearing the stone away.. wtf kinda bit is that? i found it at my cousins work and thats what we used to drill the holes, but i needed them to be 13/32".. nothing we had would touch that metal except that bit.. (also the piece must have moved because the holes we did make..were off)
then dude had a hard time drilling the new holes.
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ok.. soo i modified my brake pedal.. (plans for a new better one).. with a ratio of 6.4:1 but take a little away for having a .7:1 on the master cylinder end lol. I did have the rod on the bottom hole on the three hole mount. feels pretty good now, great stopping power. i can now lock up all 4 wheels.. and the rears lock a hair before the fronts, with the prop valve open fully, coulda saved 50$ thumb down
also i marked the new shock support on the drivers side with red.
also, both hubs ready to go on!
ohhh almost forgot!!!! I lowered the pressure in my shocks to 380psi... sinks about 4" from full droop, when i let it off the jack.. (not much ground clearance in the rear) but damn does it make for a smooth ride over the rough shit!!! :) :) :)
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I would say your ready to go. ;D looks better though!
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f**king hate these new tires.. top speed is way to fast for my comfort zone.. low end needs more grunt...
was doing about 20mph or so through the field and usually i drop a gear, nail the gas and drift around then back out where i came in..
wellll....... these tall tires didnt spin, they dug in and flipped me over instantly.. 3/4 on my top leaning forward... i instantly hit the kill switch, was hanging in my harness.. undid harness and climbed out, then noticed my knee was burnign like a mofo.. freaking road rash on my knee pretty good. smashed a headlight and mirror.. radiator wasnt touched. frame was fine. some how i managed to get it back on its wheels. notice i had glass sitcking out my arm from the head light.. lame. my back, ribs, shoulders, neck, arms, wrists, and hands are pretty sore.. my head hasnt stop pounding either. yes had helmet on.
fxxk these tall tires, they are too tall. i need 23" to be perfect where i want.
so i swapped my old hubs back in, put my 22" tires back on and ripped it up for about an hour.. but was feeling sick so i came home.
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Road rash SUCKS, but atleast your still ok. 8) 8) 8)
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cant believe i cant find any 23x12-12 tires.. not even any 22x12-12 lame.
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cant believe i cant find any 23x12-12 tires.. not even any 22x12-12 lame.
Doesn't Carlisle make some? I think they offer 489's in 23x12-12. Maybe only 23x10-12.
23" tires on 12" rims are a hard combo to find a lot of options for.. My 4x4 quads were stock with 23's.. What a PITA.. But I did like the Maxxis radials that come stock on the Wolverine 450 (only 23x10-12). Very squared off tire though, different from most 4x4 tires, almost like a Maxxis Razr2 on my sport quads, but for the 4x4..
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ill have to check into those.. i really love the kenda bear claws ive been using, excellent traction.
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Road rash SUCKS, but atleast your still ok. 8) 8) 8)
+1
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will i hate these tires??? compared to my bear claws?
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how do these look?? 6ply.. would these work good in dirt, gravel, hard pack, and sand?
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I like the first set you posted.
The ones with big lugs I am not so fond of.. They really are a softer compound made for mud and not so much for rocks. I've had 25" ITP Mudlites on a wolverine 450 that was ridden heavily in rocks. The sidewalls all developed some rather large bubbles because of the traction in the rocks and the way the lug would be pulled.
The first set you posted looks similar to Razr2's but with a slightly different pattern. Close to the Wolverine's stock Maxxis tires (which, btw, Ive only found at yamaha dealers, seems the general Maxxis distributors don't get hold of the factory tires).
For traction, I love my Bighorns / Trilobites (G-force Bighorn knock offs). Started with them on my 4x4, and on the buggy they just stick to the ground and tear chunks out of fields.. Take a look at those too..
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Glad to hear you faired pretty good and sounds like buggy held up quit nicely too. Unless you like riding in mudd aggressive tires suck. Too much traction for fields and hardpack. Kicking the rear out on a long curve and holding it.
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with my 13/60 gearing.. and my gsxr600 engine, just not enough power to turn those 25" tall tires over easily in the soft dirt. i dont like the sluggishness at lower speeds compared to my 22" tires.. i love that hard pulling acceleration.. my 22" tires are actually 21" .... the 25" actually measure 25" so i think a 23" will be perfect..
heres the 3 i have it narrowed down to. PLEASE HELP ME DECIDE!! ;D drowning
tractor style (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230592290564&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en)
Ambush Sport (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140441527079&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en)
Carlisle (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370501601030&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en)
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For what purpose are you buying these for?
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Ambush sports bookmarked for when I replace.. Wish I saw those earlier.. Kinda surprised your gearing and GSXR are sluggish on 25's.. I only run a Raptor 660 motor w/ 12/60 gearing and I have plenty of power and wheel spin. I'd take the ambush sports in a 25" too :)
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my purpose for getting tires.. is so i can use my new cast aluminum 12" rims, and have a good tire to go with them. since the new 25" ones i bought are too tall for my liking.
i say its sluggish but it will rip through in 1st 2nd 3rd gear.. just not as much as my 22s.. i mean its plenty of power for those tires, i just like the tons of acceleration i have with the 22s..
my current 22" tires are on flimsy aluminum rims and they are 10" rims.
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do you have room for a 70 tooth sprocket? if your running 530 chain it interchanges with standard 50 so the steel blank sprockets at tsc or wheeler's will work you just need to drill you bolt pattern and/or some lightening holes say 1.5" hole saw then dress.
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nope.
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Ambush would be a good dirt field gravel tire. They would be tough in the sand. No tire is right for everything.
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Ambush would be a good dirt field gravel tire. They would be tough in the sand. No tire is right for everything.
I definitely agree.. And will also say they will suffer a little in mud as they will pack up and become slicks..
The ambush is very similar to the tires most 2WD GNCC racers use, and its pretty much for the terrain that Carlriddle described. If maxxis made their Razr2's in a 23" or 25" size, I would get them in a heartbeat.
I have no experience with real sand, so I've never owned paddles. But with my Razr2's on the XC quad in the PA coal dust dunes, you can dig yourself in way too easy. Luckily thats only about 10% of the area out there. So if you ride sand alot, I would not consider the ambush's..
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Riding the sand is a paddle tires job. His Bearclaws will work as well as any shown for that. IF he's looking at a tire for both purposes,save the money and just run the bearclaws. I did as LD on my smaller buggy like Voo's and they were fine except for the silty stuff. I THOUGHT that was was why he was looking for tires in the first place. Maybe not tho..
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im looking for an all time tire.. the whole point of doing those new hubs, getting those cast 12" wheels and stuff was because my old thin wheels cracked.. but i bought those 25" bear claws.. im selling my new bear claws, and i need a normal all time driving replacement.. thats gonna be close to the tire size im running now, but fit the new 12" rims. i thought i would like the taller tire, but i dont. BUT they dont make bear claws in a 23x12-12 or 23x10-12... so im trying to find a replacement for my current bear claws.. thats all. I need tires that are good for dirt, fields, gravel roads, and occasional sandy trails around here. this will be my full time tire for my buggy.
ive given up on getting paddles.. i just dont have the spare cash right now, with doing the brakes and stuff.
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23x10-12...
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Hey I had a set of these on a Banche and they worked great in hard pack and the sand. People could not believe how well I could get around at LS with them on. Had them on for five years and were still on when I sold it. Never did buy a set of paddles.
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to pricey for me yummi..lol im sure ill pop on those ambush sports for 153 shipped.. same guys i have bought my last few sets of tires from.. super fast shipping.
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about a year ago I bought another used cv axle from the local salvage yard, to replace the one I ripped apart (with my old engine and setup). Ever since I put it on, it has had about a half inch of play back and forth when twisting the joints back and forth. I figured it was just worn and rolled with it. Well i've always had some clunkyness in the rear of my buggy and hated it. FINALLY today I thought, well wtf!!! im gonna take it apart and check out the joint.. whoa!!!! glad i did!! The big 3 sided tripod joint which is the engine side of the cv axle has 3 outer bearing races, then needle bearings, and clips that hold the needle bearings in place but allow the outter race to slide up and down to travel with the tripod cups cutouts.
What I found when i pulled the boot off was insane. All the clips gone, all the needle bearings gone, and the outter races just hanging out on their small shafts. the grease was liquidy and full of chopped up needle bearings... mother f**ker!!! well since im tired of blowing cash, I decided to fix it with a totally different cv tripod from another car. Basically I pulled all the needle bearings off other tripod, lined them up on my tripod. I had to add two extra needles from the pile of shit grease I scraped off my axle. Actually found 6 good ones that weren't bent or chopped up. I had to make my own paper thin metal "machine bushing" washers and then used hefty E-clips to hold the washers and needle bearings in place, as oppossed to the stamped "star" style washer clips the factory used. Also found that my cvs were being pulled two far out of the cup at the angle im running. Easy fix, just had to add 1/4" spacer on the wheel side to push the whole axle tripod back into the cup a little. NOW.. the joint is tight and smooth running!!!! f**k yea!!!!
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well started a light bar today.. not quite sure what to do for the adjustable link.. a single one in the center? turn buckels on each side??
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Use an electronic actuator :) I've seen some bad-ass light bars on Baja machines that use the actuators so they can adjust on the fly.
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For the cheap way turnbuckle with a second spot for the flat down position. For electric, sweet, just get enough throw to do whole stroke. Save electric part to put towards LS trip. Lol
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You want 2 whether electric or turnbuckle otherwise it will shake a lot more. You won't like that.
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oh got it done.. i did use one turn buckle in the center. the light bar is fairly tight on its hinge. I used 1/2" heims and my frame tube.. works good. need to knurl the turnbuckle tube now.
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Uh, negative. None. Look around for buggies with light bars and actuators. That shit has a nasty habit of caving in a roof on a roll over. That large piece of center steel comes on down into the cab.
Dont get me wrong, they look cool as hell. And it is sometimes handy at the dunes to be able to adjust the angle. But, having seen the pictures, stick with something that breaks off or won't enter in a roll over.
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so my setup isnt good?
i wanted adjustable because due to my normal driving terrain, i need to point the lights up higher, or way down low depending where im driving... used to have to reach over and pull on each light, then they would vibrate out of whack...
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Did you use a left and right thread heim? If not no quick turn to adjust. Looks good, were you able to reuse the lights.
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Uh, negative. None. Look around for buggies with light bars and actuators. That shit has a nasty habit of caving in a roof on a roll over. That large piece of center steel comes on down into the cab.
Dont get me wrong, they look cool as hell. And it is sometimes handy at the dunes to be able to adjust the angle. But, having seen the pictures, stick with something that breaks off or won't enter in a roll over.
+1
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ok..... tell me to use two turnbuckles, or elec actuators... but then +1 on not using either....
carl... yes, LH and RH heims.
so whats the point of a light bar? if its welded solid, with out any supports (since they could come into cab area in event of roll over) then it will just collapse in a roll over and bust all your lights.. isn't the point of it to keep the lights safe?
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Dig, hard to see from this picture, and I now have an LED bar under the HIDS, but, the light bar parallels the roof roll bar. So, in a roll over, the lights will break off - I am cool with that. Cheap as opposed to a piece of steel coming in the roof.
I will try to get better pictures tonight for you.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dtsfab.com%2Findex%2Findex.php%3Faction%3Ddlattach%3Btopic%3D3170.0%3Battach%3D21062%3Bimage&hash=a9eebda8dd14605d39c8e65c5ff2fb64fa2e1ac5)
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no i see what your saying... i mean the kind like i built.. i see them on all kinds of buggys.. the ones that go up over the lights.. mine runs parallel with my front roof bar, the whole width of the buggy.. and then my adjusment bar is tied into the roof rail at the most braced point...
all im asking, do most people that run "my" style of light bar, have it welded in solid? or bolted in non adjustable?
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I said 2 because you had it built and 2 are better by far than the one when it comes to your lights vibrating around. Even yummi's design can have a hoop around/over the lights. Just remember that for anything there are alternative ways to do things. Each has its' pluses and minuses.
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so i guess if i want adjustablilty on the fly.. i gotta risk having the bar coming into the cab? dumb.. lol. :-X
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Interesting to learn here..
I always figured the actuator arm would bend before roll cage does, most of the actuators I've seen are 1/2" diameter push rod or smaller. But I could see how a stronger center brace can penetrate the passenger area in a rollover, and I'd rather replace lights than my head.
Is there a way to make the mounts for the bar, well, "sacrificial"?? That way they bend / break before the light bar goes thru the roof? Maybe make the mounting tabs from a slightly thinner material that gives way first?
Just thinking out loud...
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The heims usually break and then the strut becomes a spear.The struts are the issue ,not the bar.
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Ah hah! So here's the solution. Use 3/8" or 1/2" plate for the roof! Armor protection! (j/k!) (with that weight on the top, you would be begging for a rollover LOL).
Hmm, so what if he put two adjusters on the sides instead of one in the middle?
Is there any way to make a light bar safely adjustable then? (My current buggy doesn't have one, but when I build a full size desert car I had plans to do something similar).
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using a small actuator or manual link would work on yummis design as well as any other design.I like yummis design and adding a hoop over the lights would delight me.
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Ok, Yummi's design looks almost like a roof cargo rack, with rails along the sides as well as front. Do you mean an actuator, say, at the rear of the "rack", that is mounted to a vertical roll bar pushing up / pulling down on the rear of the "rack"? This would put the actuator behind you / to the side of you and raise / lower the rear of the "rack".. The actuator would then essentially become the rear mounts for the rack?
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Or...
What if you made the bar the lights mount to (on Yummi's rack) pivotable, essentially like a steering spindle. Only a small arm mounted to control it just like tie rods connecting to a spindle. The actuator wouldnt need to have a long throw either, depending on how big you make the "small arm". This way in a rollover, there's no long spear...
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yea thats what i shoulda done.. welded the hoop solid to frame and made the light mounts pivotal..with small adjuster..
my current adjuster is the same as my frame tube.. i was figuring it would fold in half before the heims of tabs broke.. especially since its mount to a thick tube that braced in good on my roof...
ill run with it for now i guess.. figured i was finally making something right lol.
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Ok, Yummi's design looks almost like a roof cargo rack, with rails along the sides as well as front. Do you mean an actuator, say, at the rear of the "rack", that is mounted to a vertical roll bar pushing up / pulling down on the rear of the "rack"? This would put the actuator behind you / to the side of you and raise / lower the rear of the "rack".. The actuator would then essentially become the rear mounts for the rack?
yup
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Hopfully Voodo you've already done the roolover thing and you have learned your lesson and not repeat. rofl But could you shorten the adjuster part to where it was only like 6" or so then I dont think it would dart you. So does this mean your going to make LS, or are ya still 50-50?
Speakin of dart anyone see Yoshi's lawn dart at snake hunt. He posted up some pics still waiting on video. Not quit as bad as the Jackson.
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my adjuster bar is like 14" long.. and the roof bars make it pretty hard to hit me or passenger while dangling, but in a roll over shit bends and goes places it shouldnt..
not gonna make LS. has health issues and had to spend a big chuck of savings on doctor bills.. plus no business at work = small checks. sucks ass
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sorry to hear that voodoo and carl can you post up a few of yoshi?
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Please
sorry to hear that voodoo and carl can you post up a few of yoshi?
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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sorry to hear that voodoo and carl can you post up a few of yoshi?
We're waiting. gg: gg:
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Damn you all banned from MBN now? Lol let me get to a computer too tough on phone.
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Damn you all banned from MBN now? Lol let me get to a computer too tough on phone.
Thanks Carl. ;D ;D ;D
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I think they lifted my grounding. rofl rofl but I wouldn't know where to look.
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I can but don't care enough to look them up . Thanks for posting them tho.
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Hauled buggy up to our camping area and cruised some trails by the lake. I have more pics ill put up later buts heres my favorite one.
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Looking sort of Mad Max there...........................
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Agree both the buggy and the driver. Lol.
Glad to see your out putting some miles on her.
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:o thats not me in the picture.. notice the boobs... ?? lol
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]Crap! I'm sorry . Didn't recognize them covered . ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Got any boobie updates? ;) ;) ;) ;)
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heres some pics.
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;D ;D
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WTF!!!!! rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
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Glad to see your out putting some miles on her.
LMAO
Vodoo - looks good. Good to see you enjoying your hard work.
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according to my gearing, on paper 101mph is my top speed. with two people and a strong headwind I was hitting 86mph on the gps speedometer on my gf's phone.. feels plenty fast..
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according to my gearing, on paper 101mph is my top speed. with two people and a strong headwind I was hitting 86mph on the gps speedometer on my gf's phone.. feels plenty fast..
I'll bet!
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how do you do the math to find out mph?
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ohh.. fabber posted a link like 30pages back in my thread i think... or maybe it was in another thread i posted.. you put in your gear ratios of each gear, tires diameter, engine rpms.. and such..
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i was thinking all the gears had to be put in the calc.i have the link to a calc.but never looked for gear ratio on the motor.
sweet buggy ive been watching your vids for a wile,thats how i found this site.you should post some more.
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http://www.apexgarage.com/tech/gear_ratios.shtml (http://www.apexgarage.com/tech/gear_ratios.shtml)
heres the link i used and a quote from masterfabber..
"I guess I should mention that the rpm value you use when working with a bike engine or any engine for that matter with a primary reduction is the engine rpm divided by the internal reduction ratio. In voodoos case his redline rpm is 13000 and his primary reduction is 1.744 so you use 7454 as the input rpm. I rounded his off to 7400. There is another variable that can and does make a difference also. Tire diameter is most often used in these calculators. IMO if you want better accuracy you need to measure out the ROLLOUT of the tire and then convert that circumference into diameter for the true tire height. You may ask how a tire can be a certain height and not have its rollout(circumference) be mathmatically different. It has to do with how a tire contacts the ground. With some tires that run at low pressures(don't we all?) the rollout can be significantly different than the diameter would indicate. Best thing to do is adjust air pressure to running pressure and with the tire on buggy and with buggy at running weight make one revolution of the tire and measure the length of the "footprint" on the ground and convert that true ,real world, circumference into diameter and use that diameter in the calculator. Yes,I know, low pressure tires grow with higher speeds (think top fuel dragsters)but our speeds will not make much difference. "
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thanks thats better than the one i had.
http://www.compgoparts.com/TechnicalResources/SprocketCalculator.asp (http://www.compgoparts.com/TechnicalResources/SprocketCalculator.asp)
are you using a 13/60 set up?
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currently using a 13front 60rear with 22" tall tires.. but as i found out, this same configuration is vastly different with different engines, due to the different ratios for each gear....through out different brands of engines.
with 13 front and 60 rear,, thats a final drive ratio of 4.61 (60/13=4.61) think of it just like a cars rear end gears...
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i have a 95 gsxr 750. i think it would be the same?
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your 1995 750 would be closer or the same to my original engine.. a 1995 suzuki gsxf-600. (katana) quite a bit different than my 2003 gsxr600..
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oh i thought you had a 750
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nope..you susre you checked out my build log?? lol
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i thought i did.to many buggy to read about
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Almost 2 years later and Im finally posting again. After several unsuccessful possible trades for Honda vtx's... And sitting for an entire year after a chain break jacked up the clutch rod cover... the buggy is back in business. Finally gonna finish this damn thing and call it complete. I have a solid rear end desing that has held up for 3yrs of abuse. I have a great front end design that has taken many jumps. Its all GOOD!! So...time to integrate all the added wiring, round off all the sharp corners and paint the damn thing.
first 3 pics were after dusting it all off and taking it for the first drive since pulling out of storage. In the last picture you can see the affects of it getting rained on once!! everything got surface rust instantly.
Once its painted and complete, im going to attempt to sell it and start a new buggy.
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well you going to haul it down to the sand in a few weeks?
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most likely not... no truck, no trailer, no money, little time haha.
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put a hitch on the caddy and get ya a utility trailer lol
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ohh boy.. youd think having 400hp should be able to tow small things.. but everything ive read says DO NOT tow things with this car. doesnt have the rigidity to handle it.
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Wellllll,hellllllllllllllll. We're beginning to think you just don't like us. ;D ;D
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haven't you ever heard the song horse tailer on a caddilac rofl
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When is the last time you read/followed instructions? rofl rofl
Looks like they want you to have a trans cooler for towing. Stock tow rate 1000lbs, w/cooler 2000lbs. With just you pulling buggy it be better than the 6 fat chicks I see ridin 'round in the caddy here. ;D
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lmao... oh thats funny. Im not putting a hitch on my beautiful car.. it would look ridiculous!! lol.. AND if I didnt like you guys I would have been updating my build on the other buggy site over the last few years. lol
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Everyone says its 10" under bumper, cant see it.
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you find a ride come down
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I'm 95% making the trip. And I will be solo. Guess I'm running out of volunteer passengers. LMAO
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After scrubbing rust off all the a-arms, and various parts.. I decided I didnt feel like doing the frame. So I dropped it off at the sand blasters yesterday night, and picked it up this morning. Looks great. $150....
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I sell sand for blasting here at work, lots of home owners come in want to do it thereself. I warn them, best $100 spent paying someone else to do it.
Looks good, throw some primer on it fast. Pack a sack get ur but to LS Ok. Oct 1-5. I give you a seat for aslong as u want. ;D ;D Bring a tent or crash in ur car or under stars.
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cheap and easy .....the only way to go!! ;D
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haha, i really cant afford to make the trip fellas. I do appreciate the offer for a seat brian.. took the blaster an hour to do it. they have a huge facility where they do blasting, painting and such. They travel all over this area. I probably should have had them primer it, but the bedline im covering half of it with says apply to bare metal.
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wiped down the frame with xylol, and started bed lining the bottom.. What a huge pain in the butt!!
also got some parts painted with hammer finish black. Doing the frame tubes with hammer silver.
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if that couch is in your living room, your not a married man nor do you have a live in girlfriend!! ;) rofl rofl
looks good you really like it when it's finished and drivable plus easier to sell.
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That is my cousins shop, not sure why there is a couch and stuff there. Definitely not mine, and I do have a live in gf lol.
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More bedliner applied.. man it sucked. new bronze in the rear uprights, and paint on the coolant tubes.
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Just a quick ? Voo.
Why the bronze in the uprights and not something like a Nylatron? Seem to me that the bronze will wear much much faster in the sand and dirt then a Nylatron would. Not getting on you just wondering.
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And be sure the threads aren't on bushings. They'll grind it down faster.
Bedliner stuff was pretty dang durable on my old car. Proper prep, held up good. Paint would crack off but not the liner. Its just heavy.
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Fast: I originally used the bronze oilite bushings because of ease of access, I could buy them locally for a few $ each.. and same reason as now, ease of access. I didnt have to have someone make me some bushings. Unless the kind you speak of are easily available in standard sizes?
The bedliner Im using is herculiner, its like a super tough plastic when cured. Ive used it before on trucks and it has held up better than any other roll on bedline Ive seen.
Edit: the bolts for the rear uprights extend the threads beyond the bronze, and I have those hex washers from doug heim welded to the a-arm that keep the bolts from rotating. I know its not ideal, it was just easy. Im not against using better material if the price is right.
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No diff than using heim joints. Those type of parts are maintenance item and will need replacement. Keep a few spares in the toolbox. Looking good, keep on trucking on. After your done, the first ride sucks. gettin her dirty
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delrin will last a very long time ,pretty damn cheap and machines like butter.
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too bad the machinists labor rates are as soft as butter.. the material may be cheap, and easy... but time is valuable. I had these bronze's on since I built it, and they were still pretty tight.. figured id replace while i had it apart lol.. the next owner can change if they want to.. haha
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;) ;) ;D ;D
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got the frame primed and painted, but phone died after priming pics were taken.. also bedlined the a-arms.
I actually like the military green primer color better than the hammer finish silver, which didnt seem to texturize in alot of places.. lame.
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more pics.
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I bought qt cans thinned it and sprayed with compressor. Couple light coats, no hammered effect. Final wet coat is when hammered came out. Couple spray cans for touch up.
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yea maybe i didnt lay it on thick enough in the end. good tip thanks!
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do you have enough left for a thick coat? or just try it in one spot to see if it works?
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Got all the plastic and tape off, put my light bar on and started assembling the modular pieces like the brake master cylinder and pedal unit. Also made some of these aluminum line clamps...by hand. sucks!!! Especially Since I used 3/4" plate and sliced it in half to get 3/8 plate.. dont do that, its a pain in the butt.
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more progress. I hope everyone had a blast last week... sorry I couldnt make it. the shop is quite dusty some buggy looks dirty. got the front end assembled, most of the rear end assembled, brake module installed, shifter assembly partially installed, and started making new rear a-arm guards.
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We had a great time. No one had any major issues that I know of. I looks like you made good use of your time while we were away.
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I hate insulation!!!
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insulating sucks, but someone has to do it. what R value you installing? Sooner or later I'll be doing the same thing.
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2x4 walls, we used r13. It was on sale for $7 a 40sq ft roll. This is in my friends ggarage. Of a place he is renting long term.
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almost done. with assembly.
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Looking good. Who made those clamps for ya?
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I made them.. I said that about 5 posts up when I posted a picture of them.