DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => "AP" Member Project Logs => Topic started by: komelika on September 20, 2015, 03:29:06 AM
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I figured I'd start a project log on the Chenowth.
This thing needed a lot of work. It sat for years in the previous owner's backyard. He had the idea to make it street legal, which I might eventually do. He decided to create a more aerodynamic windshield frame, which took hours to cut out and clean up since he arc welded a lip around the inside of the A-pillar and a lower bar above the dash.
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I have close to 30 hours with a grinder and a wire wheel stripping the old paint. I decided to go with a rattle can gloss red paint job. I like red because it's easy and it matches my truck.
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I had a couple problems with the seats being mounted to the floor pan. One, it doesn't seem strong enough to be safe. Two, this rail wasn't built for a 6'2" driver or passenger and with the seats mounted to the pan they sat to vertical and put my head nearly into the roof bar. I couldn't just tilt the seats either for various reasons.
This is the approximate position mounted to the floor pan.
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This is where I needed them.
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Which put the bottom of the seat below the floor pan level for a loss of clearance.
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I compromised with a happy median where I had a max head clearance at a minimum clearance loss.
The bottom of the seat mount tubes will be plated with 1/8" steel that the seats will bolt directly to.
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I think the idea is solid and has plenty of strength with 12 welded points of contact after gusseting the cross tube to the center tubes.
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Its hard to get a good idea of the clearance from this pic, but the seat mount tubes are only 1.25" below the center tubes of the chassis.
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Plenty of clearance for the shifter bar. I'm also going to mount two more tubes, one on each side of the shifter bar, for more support during bottom outs. I may fab in one more cross tube attached to the hip bars behind the seats and weld the tubes in more vertical for better strength. If I do that then I may be able to put in an expanded metal shelf to put a small cooler and other items in the space behind the seats. I haven't decided on that yet.
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I was making pretty good progress until I ran out of shielding gas. Looking forward to the reassembly.
Needs:
Pedal Assembly
Seat Belts
Seat Covers
Coil
Paint
All new nuts and bolts
Tie Rod Ends
Shocks front and rear
Lights
Wiring
Front wheel bearings
Possibly rear brake shoes.
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well it already looks 10x better lol just going to through this out there but from the pics looks like a 3 to 4" drop for the seats and about a 35* to 40* angle. if you had bent the ends of the cross tube 35* to 40* and dropped it below the inner frame members you could've ran straight tubes for the seats and then it would've been easier to make an aluminum floor pan to cover the seat. i never used to until i had a corn stock come up between my legs out in the field a while back and ever since then i am a firm believer of a full floor pan! did you get rid of you mc rail?
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also if you have a salvage yard near by and are wanting better and actuall suspension seats a cheap alternative is the hyndai tiberon seats or seats out of a 92 tercel or out of a 02 and up cavalier. i have used all 3 and easy to mod the steel structure for use in a rail. very plus suspension seats to. usually $35 each around here. some of the tiberon's have a cut out through the head rest as well as the old tercel seats.
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Very nicely done!
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well it already looks 10x better lol just going to through this out there but from the pics looks like a 3 to 4" drop for the seats and about a 35* to 40* angle. if you had bent the ends of the cross tube 35* to 40* and dropped it below the inner frame members you could've ran straight tubes for the seats and then it would've been easier to make an aluminum floor pan to cover the seat. i never used to until i had a corn stock come up between my legs out in the field a while back and ever since then i am a firm believer of a full floor pan! did you get rid of you mc rail?
The goal behind this idea is that it slides over obstructions instead of giving any angles are edges to hang up on. I think I see what you are saying, but I can still pan the bottom of the seats.
No, I haven't even advertised the cuda. I'm not in a hurry to sell it. I'm still trying to figure out if I can have both. Looking into storage units for one or the other.
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also if you have a salvage yard near by and are wanting better and actuall suspension seats a cheap alternative is the hyndai tiberon seats or seats out of a 92 tercel or out of a 02 and up cavalier. i have used all 3 and easy to mod the steel structure for use in a rail. very plus suspension seats to. usually $35 each around here. some of the tiberon's have a cut out through the head rest as well as the old tercel seats.
Thanks for the tips. I've heard people are using Miata seats too. I know these poly seats are temporary so I will definitely keep my eye open for a better replacement. I'll head down to the Pull & Pay in the next week or two.
The actual clearance loss is only 1.25" from the center rails of the chassis down to the tube for the seat mount. It looks like more on the edge tubes because the outer tubes on the chassis are bent up at an angle to mount to the torsion housing.
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Brake lines... solid or braided stainless hoses? I'm worried that the pedal assembly I have doesn't have enough volume for hose expansion, especially since the disk brakes have 2 calipers. I like the idea of braided since it looks better and makes it easier to have pedal adjustment for driver height.
http://www.latestrage.net/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=1695&virtuemart_category_id=884 (http://www.latestrage.net/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=1695&virtuemart_category_id=884)
Anyone have an idea what size fittings I need? Considering there is no info with the assembly it is probably a stupid question, but I don't have any experience with brake lines other than the AN fittings on the cuda.
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I have always been told there are no stupid questions. If you do not know something's that is how you learn by asking..
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Run hard lines everywhere you can using braided/flex a little as possible. Hard lines help eliminate a spongy pedal.Keep the braided/flex as short as possible. Line size is a matter of opinion but I suggest 3/16" for trunk lines and 1/8"for branch lines.
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Keep the SS braided down at -3 and just use it for the wheel cylinders and master. Run solid steel thru out the car and just use the braided from the frame to the wheels and one piece coiled for the master cylinder if you need adjustment.
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Made some progress today. I started with finishing the support bars.
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Then it was bottom side up to finish the bottom welds and fit the mount plates.
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I hope this isn't a jinx! Been upside down in enough already!
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These mounts are solid! Eventually the seats will be replaced with quality suspension seats, but they'll do for now.
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Here is a shot from the front showing the clearance loss, which is minimal.
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Shot from the back.
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Next on the agenda is to fab the battery mount/base plate. Then I'll be able to put the floor back in and start working on the brake lines. I got my new front shocks in the mail today so I'm looking forward to getting the front axle back on it.
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turned out real nice and where i'm not a fan of trailing arms i have always been a fan of the custom torsion housing over the stock! i know barrien had a bad batch of those quite a ways back and they were cracking but not sure where they got them. deano and transman would know since they had seen them break in person but doubt yours is. i do like the red as well.
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turned out real nice and where i'm not a fan of trailing arms i have always been a fan of the custom torsion housing over the stock! i know barrien had a bad batch of those quite a ways back and they were cracking but not sure where they got them. deano and transman would know since they had seen them break in person but doubt yours is. i do like the red as well.
Thanks. I hadn't heard about the torsion housing issue, but I've been out of it for so long I haven't heard anything about anything. Eventually I want to beef up the suspension on this one. I'm planning on 3X3 trailing arms and 930 CV joints, but I haven't decided if I want to ditch the torsion bars and go with coil over suspension yet.
As for the front, I'm thinking 6" wider beams with 4" trailing arms and coil over shocks, but that may change as I look further into it. Its going to remain stock for awhile, but do you have any suggestions?
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yes i do lol i am full of suggestions as is everyone on this site ;D rofl
seriously i would go 3x3 with 930's but don't buy the empi 930's get these http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details.aspx?sku=301174CC they actually are machined to 30* but stop them at 28* unlike the empi's which actually only go 26* when properly installed and are advertised at 28*. been though this with lots of customers that have fought them! with 3x3 on a bus trans you'll need 19 1/4" long axles. for the front, add up what all the parts will cost to do as you described wanting to do then measure the distance between the upper and lower frame at the two tubes that are upright. in the second pic on the page that you posted you can see that right behind where the torsion bar mounts there is a tube that goes straight up and down and another at the windshield frame. those are where you need to measure. let me know what price you come up with on all the parts to do that beam as described then i'll let you know of a cheaper better way to do it ;D
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Great, now I have something else to obsess about! ;D
What do you suggest for stub axles and flanges for the 5 rib Bus tranny to mate up to the 930s? I haven't looked into to it too far, but if you know of a good source that would be cool. It's already looking like $1000-$1500 for the 3x3 conversion so it may be some time before I get to that and longer for the front.
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rofl rofl
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rofl rofl
;D
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http://www.appletreeauto.com/WARRIOR-FRONT-BEAM-STAGE-4-A2003/ (http://www.appletreeauto.com/WARRIOR-FRONT-BEAM-STAGE-4-A2003/) and still only gets you what ? 12" travel?
http://www.appletreeauto.com/TRAILING-ARM-KIT-FOR-930-and-002-TA3x3930-002/ (http://www.appletreeauto.com/TRAILING-ARM-KIT-FOR-930-and-002-TA3x3930-002/) tell them to keep the cv's and discount the kit then buy the rockford cv's. they'll do it cause i have told sever to do so lol and they have. you said 5 rib trans so that's 002
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Got the top painted. Now I'm ready to fab in a battery box. Yeah, I know I should wait to paint it so I don't have to grind off paint at weld points... but its sooo perty! 8)
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You gotta love Red! I do. Great job on the seats tie in. Very strong. It really boxes that area in nice.
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Fabbed in my battery box.
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I had 3/16" on hand. It would have been better to use 1/8", but oh well.
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that will work nice just remember to put some foam between the battery and the box. foam rubber would prob work well, just a little dampening is all.
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that will work nice just remember to put some foam between the battery and the box. foam rubber would prob work well, just a little dampening is all.
Will do. I put in a piece of expanded metal as well just to keep it from trapping water and protecting the bottom a little more. It will probably not have a pan beneath it. The chassis design makes it difficult to bolt a pan since every tube is higher than the next. From the center it steps up to the torsion and then steps up again to the outer tube. The original pan was unsupported in the rear and the closest bolt was at least 18" from the torsion housing, leaving the tabs on the torsion housing unused. The battery is tucked up in there pretty good so I think it will be fine unless a really odd rock finds it way in there.
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Got a little done today. Seems like every time I set out to do something small it turns into a side project. I didn't like any of my options for mounting my cutting brake. I didn't want to straddle the shift rod since that would put it too high. There wasn't enough room beside the shift rod without putting it too close to either seat. I don't even know how the PO could reach it where he had it mounted in front of the shifter before. So I decided to fab a mount and put it where I needed it.
First the bend.
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Then figuring out best place to mount it.
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This is optimal with plenty of clearance for the shifter and the throw on the brake.
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I think it turned out pretty good and it doesn't interfere with my right leg on the gas pedal.
The shifter is in 1st gear in this pic.
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I had to move the shifter back about 1.75" to make it comfortable so I shortened the rod. It feels sloppy because the little plastic fitting is missing in the shift rod hole. I'm going to make sure that fixes the shifter before I mount anything permanently. Then I'll probably tack it in and try it out before fully welding it in. I've also read bad reviews on this shifter so I will probably run it tacked for a while until I decide I don't need to buy a different shifter and it needs to move to make room for a taller handle.
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Nicely done!
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looks good and should get you where you can use it . might be a pain to bleed the cutting brake but only have to get it bled once lol
just a suggestion but why not extend those tubes up to the windshield frame and use it like a console for gauges as well? i this on my personal rail and like it. http://www.dtsfab.com/index/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4146.0;attach=25753;image
more pics on page 2 of my build log
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can't see the whole thing but that is the shifter knob sticking up, gives you an idea
http://s218.photobucket.com/user/dsrace/media/DSCN3328_zpsrmb7jvl4.jpg.html (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/dsrace/media/DSCN3328_zpsrmb7jvl4.jpg.html)
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can't see the whole thing but that is the shifter knob sticking up, gives you an idea
http://s218.photobucket.com/user/dsrace/media/DSCN3328_zpsrmb7jvl4.jpg.html (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/dsrace/media/DSCN3328_zpsrmb7jvl4.jpg.html)
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Funny you mention that. It has crossed my mind. Thinking about it!
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I decided to add some bling and built a Baja style light rack. I just need to finish it up and build my support rods and tie them in. It was a fun project. What do you think?
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I know, the weld on the end looks terrible. I made a miscut when I notched it and had to fill in a spot. Notching with more than one tube intersecting is pain and I'm still not very good at it. I gound it down and I usually don't grind my welds.
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Looks great. Wish I had known you were going to do one though. I have one I'd have sold you quite cheap.
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Looks good!
Fabr just bring all extra parts to LS. Trade day Thursday. Lol
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Looks great. Wish I had known you were going to do one though. I have one I'd have sold you quite cheap.
I needed a project anyway. The fab bug was biting and it gave me an excuse to finally buy another die for the bender. I gotta get this thing rolling so I can get the barracuda back in and put the axles in and finish it up before it gets warm.
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Does it have something holding it vertical other than the friction on the two bolts?
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Does it have something holding it vertical other than the friction on the two bolts?
what he said ?
looks very nice btw
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Yes it looks like it belongs there. Very well designed look. Now that you have a nice light bar,why not put an electric actuator on it so you can adjust it on the fly?
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Does it have something holding it vertical other than the friction on the two bolts?
I have everything I need to fab support rods that will mount to the roof bars.
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I have everything I need to fab support rods the actuator mounts that will mount to the roof bars.
There,fixed for ya.................... ;D
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LMAO
Stop raising the bar! I like it nice and low thank you very much! 5:
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Looks like a gremlin in the works. Was a follows:
Komelikia: Damn you Fabr! pl.gif
http://www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-330lbs-Tracker-Actuator-Multi-function/dp/B00NM8H6VS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451846209&sr=8-1&keywords=linear+actuator (http://www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-330lbs-Tracker-Actuator-Multi-function/dp/B00NM8H6VS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451846209&sr=8-1&keywords=linear+actuator)
Fabr - nothing really, just stupid shit to break his own website. HE is the reason we cannot have nice things.
Carry on.
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HEY! I do my best to screw up things yummi. ;) ;) ;D
Kom,that actuator will help you keep the bar where you need it,not just raised. Literally and pun was intended! rofl rofl Get that thing ordered. You will never regret it.
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Lot's of bad feedback on that particular actuator. Proceed with caution.....................
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wellll then how about this one https://www.firgelliauto.com/products/high-speed-actuator
Lots of options there to suit your needs. Other places as well. I would suggest that whatever you choose, it has an IP54 or better rating.
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Rat shit!
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Pulled the tins off the old 1600 and I'm really glad this thing was drive-able when I got it or I would have cooked the motor since there was no airflow around the cylinders or heads.
It took two hours in a respirator with a screw driver and a dental pick to clean the shit of all the nook and crannies!
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I want to replace the cooling shroud and I'm wondering if there is any performance advantage over the dog house style shroud vs. the baja style shroud? I have a remote oil cooler so I don't see a need for the dog house and I like the baja better aesthetically, but I don't want to sacrifice cooling efficiency. Whats the consensus?
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I have no real experience of how effecient the baja style is but I can tell you this much,retaining all the tinwork and not reducing any cooling capacity is a good thing if running in summer heat. Of course the tinwork is usually the first thing to go since it's ugly and will trap mud/wet sand like a mofo which is not good at all of course.
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The upper tins are all there. The lower tins are the typical chrome, square tins that bolt on to the exhaust headers and look like they are more for protecting the cylinders from rocks, but there is an air deflector pinned in between the cylinders on the bottom to route air to along the lower fins. I'm reading that type 3 cooling tins may help too. I think I may run it like it is with a baja style and see what the temps look like with the remote cooler and make changes as necessary.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LIUVYI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1U0N4BK8THEC6&coliid=I1YRDKMYPWLJC5 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LIUVYI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1U0N4BK8THEC6&coliid=I1YRDKMYPWLJC5)
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Fine FABR, have it your way! pl.gif
Installed my linear actuator for the light bar.
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In Action:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7iKtDUltHs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7iKtDUltHs)
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;D ;D ;D You'll be glad you did. I have to add one to mine when I get the time. Unique way of mounting it.
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I didn't want to buy two so this option kept the cost down. Another consideration is keeping it out of the elements as much as possible. NM sun is brutal! On the safety side of things, I didn't like the idea of mounting them on top and having them possibly come in and hit me or my passenger in the event of a roll over (which I hope to never do again). I did order some Supra 20" struts to stabilize better in the rough stuff.
It looks low in the pics, but it doesn't block my vision at all.
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cool!
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Got a little time in the garage today and worked on my electrical box. I went with a humidor.
First the mount.
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These will be replaced with Nyloc nuts.
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I made a stand off to keep the components off the bottom in case it ever gets submerged and water gets in through the bottom.
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I like this location for ease of access. I mounted the box off center of the plate to keep from crowding my foot at the throttle.
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36HP style shroud without heater vents. I still put a mesh box in where the oil cooler is supposed to be. Keeps the airflow balanced.
OE cylinder tins!!!!! None of the aftermarket ones have the deflectors in them. Makes for very un even airflow around the head. "Cool tins" bottom tins help even out the flow on the bottom side and will keep your cylinders round. Also need the flat deflector that snaps in the bottom side of the heads.
Welded fan!!!!!!!!!!
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Stock tins.....
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.thesamba.com%2Fvw%2Fgallery%2Fpix%2F1177598.jpg&hash=ec338011be66b1cf4941c3073eb5b5f29240f85a)
Someone was making aftermarket deflectors that you could weld into shitty tins, Can't remember who though.
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Stock tins.....
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.thesamba.com%2Fvw%2Fgallery%2Fpix%2F1177598.jpg&hash=ec338011be66b1cf4941c3073eb5b5f29240f85a)
Someone was making aftermarket deflectors that you could weld into shitty tins, Can't remember who though.
Good to know! Thanks!
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Stock tins.....
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.thesamba.com%2Fvw%2Fgallery%2Fpix%2F1177598.jpg&hash=ec338011be66b1cf4941c3073eb5b5f29240f85a)
Someone was making aftermarket deflectors that you could weld into shitty tins, Can't remember who though.
Damn ,those pics bring back memories of a lot of days in the VW dealership engine room. Yep,original tins are designed correctly. Those original straight slot screws................................ 5:
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Getting paid $200 plus shipping to fab a light bar (no lights) for another rail after someone on a different board saw mine. That's pretty cool!
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Z Germans put a lot of time and effort into designing the cooling system, Aftermarket parts, not so much on the engineering.
I built My last VtroubleU motor using the above combo. All 4 cylinders were within 5% of each other on airflow when checked at the bottom tin opening.
2110 with 9.5-1 and a 110 cam. No pinging even pushing around the heavier glass car.
Funny thing is, over the past 30 years or so, I have yet to see a set of heater flaps in a shroud. First thing everybody ditched in Kalifornia........
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I got my carb rebuild kit from Dune Buggy Warehouse today. Hard to believe they actually shipped it like this, but as you can see the gaskets were destroyed. What a waste of time! I would avoid this seller if you order parts from amazon. I absolutely love amazon and I have no doubt this will be cleared up, but the time is wasted by this seller.
It was shipped in a USPS envelope along with the air cleaner, which was removed from its package so it could fit.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi195.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fz74%2Fkomelika%2FIMG_1862_zpssupyycsj.jpg&hash=8381340b9e4a0f237de8f0ffc417dc1af1f4c1e4)
Really, this is their idea of shipping something so fragile?
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A bit of permatex #2 and it'll be good as new................
W0W!!!
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Seller responded and is replacing the kit, ensures it will be packaged properly, and issuing a full refund so all that is wasted now is time.
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Wiring! What a PITA! Definitely not the funnest aspect of the build, but its nearly done. I just need to parallel the hot side of the fuse block and finish the brake light wiring once I fab in my brake light bar.
Got a little help today!
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi195.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fz74%2Fkomelika%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2Fimage_zpsiydv6iie.jpeg&hash=41e4ff105cb6a38d7ff0c0da6b3220db01e257cd)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi195.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fz74%2Fkomelika%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2Fimage_zpsj49vehlx.jpeg&hash=d0609c34f9a3a8b62f2dcb84a9d53a21b8128138)
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Nicely done ! That's the best help as well!
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Thanks. He's been in the garage with me for 2 days and its been awesome.
Hey, question. The red wire directly above the right relay is the to the battery post of the ignition switch. I currently have it connected to a piggy back terminal end shared with the 10 gauge hot wire supplying 12V to the fuse block. Is it standard to have the battery post on the ignition fused? I have an available spot, just wasn't sure it was needed.
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" Needed " or not it will do no harm to use one there. I do NOT like piggy backs though unless absolutely unavoidable.
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You might want to put heatshrink over those spade connectors, That's a lot of bare metal showing.
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AND use adhesive lined heat shrink as well. I get mine from Fastenal just because they stock it and I can get it locally anytime.
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Nothing wrong with your set up tho since the wiring is in a sealed box. I wouldn't worry about it. I usually buy uninsulated crimp connectors and adhesive lined heat shrink for my terminations. I'll be using duetsch and such for the current build soon though. That will be a new experience.
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Nothing wrong with your set up tho since the wiring is in a sealed box. I wouldn't worry about it. I usually buy uninsulated crimp connectors and adhesive lined heat shrink for my terminations. I'll be using duetsch and such for the current build soon though. That will be a new experience.
I see the concern though. Someone mentioned it on another forum. I love showing my work because people see your blind spots. I will put an insulated material between the fuse block and the connectors. There is a lot more clearance between the connectors and the plate, but you never know. I hadn't thought of heat shrinking them either. Would have been better.
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AND use adhesive lined heat shrink as well. I get mine from Fastenal just because they stock it and I can get it locally anytime.
Fastenal never has what I need! I cannot stand that place. They are almost as bad as Autozone. 5:
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Not my favorite place either but finding quality adhesive lined heat shrink is damn near impossible without ordering it in BFE,Kansas.
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McMaster-Carr is your friend. Same day delivery to my house.....
http://www.mcmaster.com/#adhesive-lined-heat-shrink-tubing/=11ccst5 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#adhesive-lined-heat-shrink-tubing/=11ccst5)
It might not be the cheapest but it is beyond first class service !
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McMaster-Carr is your friend. Same day delivery to my house.....
http://www.mcmaster.com/#adhesive-lined-heat-shrink-tubing/=11ccst5 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#adhesive-lined-heat-shrink-tubing/=11ccst5)
It might not be the cheapest but it is beyond first class service !
Lucky effer.
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Biggest issue with crimp style connectors is over crimping them. When I have used them, I remove the plastic piece, lightly crimp then soldier it. Then heat shrink.
Fastenal always seems to have what I need. Just hate having to buy the whole box for special size bolt, nut or whatever. Used to be a girl that work there that would split the box, she looked like one of the porn stars! Damn wish she was still there for both reasons!! ;D
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I used to solder all mine as well. With research I found it not to be the best way. Quality terminals ,quality crimped,is best way. I argued long and hard about the superiority of soldered connections but ,in the end,had to change my tune.
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the local fastenal in lincoln is the biggest most worthless stores i have ever had he misfortune to step into!!!!!!!! it is faster to order parts online then deal with them. i placed a med size nuts and bolt order cause i wanted to spend local. 300 piece order split evenly on 4 sizes. they never called a week later so i called and they said it's in. i drove across town and the counter guy says yep don't know it's not in the computer sorry. i said wtf, they said it was in. so he re ordered it cause he didn't see it had ever been ordered. i was patient and this happened 2 more time in the next 3 weeks. at this point the manager got snippy with me and said i had ordered 4 loads of hardware am i going to pay for it and pick it up???? i had it out with him and he still said his guys didn't re order it 3 times that i had placed that many orders.
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Used to be a girl that work there that would split the box, she looked like one of the porn stars! Damn wish she was still there for both reasons!! ;D
Going to a porn star for a "screw" and she knew how to make you happy? The irony! LMAO
Then again, she probably could have completely "screwed" it up and you would still have been happy.
the local fastenal in lincoln is the biggest most worthless stores i have ever had he misfortune to step into!!!!!!!! it is faster to order parts online then deal with them. i placed a med size nuts and bolt order cause i wanted to spend local. 300 piece order split evenly on 4 sizes. they never called a week later so i called and they said it's in. i drove across town and the counter guy says yep don't know it's not in the computer sorry. i said wtf, they said it was in. so he re ordered it cause he didn't see it had ever been ordered. i was patient and this happened 2 more time in the next 3 weeks. at this point the manager got snippy with me and said i had ordered 4 loads of hardware am i going to pay for it and pick it up???? i had it out with him and he still said his guys didn't re order it 3 times that i had placed that many orders.
Good Customer Service in the US is an exceedingly rare thing. It is my downright biggest pet peeve.
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ya,i've had it out with several of their "managers". Our store is apparently a training operation. :lol: About every 5-6 one is good. The one they have here now is actually very good.The rest suk balls. It's best to just order non stock items on line and pick them up. I also use MSC(personal fav),Graingers,and my regular hardware distributors. For some reason I have yet to use McM Carr.
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"I fear the day that technology will surpass our human interaction. The world will have a generation of idiots" Albert Einstein
That day is here.fabr
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yep i normally use msc but i stopped in this store and set up an acct. didn't know i needed to give them a 4 week lead time to get a med to small order in!! went walking in for the 4th and final time and the guy at the counter says.....hey buddy how can i help you! i said i am not your buddy and get your damn manager out here now! he shut up and turned around.
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Another good wiring tip (you guys probably already know) is use a clear shrink wrap and label all your wires and their termination point. So, if and when you take it all apart, or are trouble shooting at 1:00 am in the dark, you can trace the wires easy. I had a local print shop print out 2 sheets of short abbreviations on a self adhearing vinyl, then cut them up and used a clear shrink wrap from Del City. I can't find any pictures but it worked sweet!
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I like the idea.
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i do too
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Another good wiring tip (you guys probably already know) is use a clear shrink wrap and label all your wires and their termination point. So, if and when you take it all apart, or are trouble shooting at 1:00 am in the dark, you can trace the wires easy. I had a local print shop print out 2 sheets of short abbreviations on a self adhearing vinyl, then cut them up and used a clear shrink wrap from Del City. I can't find any pictures but it worked sweet!
I bought a Dymo wiring label maker. Will size them for whatever gauge wire is being used. Love the thing. I have all my hoses labeled as well since there are about a bazillion of them on the new car. I have an older model but these things are great. Prints heat shrink tube as well.
http://www.labelcity.com/DYMO-RHINO-5200-LABEL-PRINTER-1755749.html?gclid=CICuzJrboMsCFZSEaQodbOEMIA (http://www.labelcity.com/DYMO-RHINO-5200-LABEL-PRINTER-1755749.html?gclid=CICuzJrboMsCFZSEaQodbOEMIA)
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Finally got a plasma cutter! Bwahaha! I'm dangerous now! I told my wife, "When I get a new tool in the mail I'm not opening a box with a tool, I'm opening a box full of possibilities!"
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi195.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fz74%2Fkomelika%2F12748062_10207273697833236_1574093542196097899_o_zpsmxhagizv.jpg&hash=9e5c1aa8852f32b4fd7763b3cf0caab8c99c7179)
Need to fab some cord and cable hangers on my cart this weekend.
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Here is a parts house that is Grainger owned but prices are a lot lower than Grainger.
Zoro they are on the Internet as well.
855-289-9676
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You'll like that addition to the tool box!
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very handy tool to have!
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Its pretty decent, but of course my budget was on the edge of its cutting capacity. It will sever 1/4" and I'm cutting 3/16" for bumper brackets for my truck. Its biggest draw back is the torch stand off. Its chinsey and doesn't seem to slide well, which makes a nice steady drag difficult. I'm trying to find a rolling stand off or a drag tip, but there doesn't seem to be anything for this torch.
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http://www.waytekwire.com/products/ (http://www.waytekwire.com/products/)
The marine grade wire and the heat shrink connectors this place sells are the best stuff to be found on the planet.
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No doubt a great source. When you say marine grade wire are you referring to the txl jacket ?
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I'm about 90% done on my rear lights. I still need to clearance the holes for a perfect fit on the lights, weld it in, and paint it. I'm pretty happy with it. I was going to skin it, but I wasn't liking the look and chose to leave it naked. I plan doing a similar hoop off the upper rear bumper bar for two more LED's that can be converted to turn signals if I choose to go street legal.
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I still need to strip and paint the rear bumper.
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I wasn't digging this look, but I did cut and bend a piece. I didn't like it at all. It looked like a bonnet. I forgot to take a pic.
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Gonna be done soon.
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it is looking good......looks like a completely diff rail. just a suggestion and your there so you have to mock it and up and look it over cause the rear pic and side angle doesn't give much to go on. what do you think the roof would look like if you made it one piece and instead of bending it down around the light hoop to match your tail lights you started say.....4" behind the top bend in the roof and fanned out to the outer roll bar cage straight across from the lights? then make an interior skin attached to it that you could put a speaker in on both side behind and above each seat and an led dome light in the middle in front of your tail lights? you could put 2 dome lights actually....1 for the occupants and one that shines over the motor in case you need to inspect something at night.
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That sounds bad ass! I was thinking about possibly doing a one piece roof back to the lights, but I hadn't thought about lights and speakers. I was just going to run with an Altec Bluetooth speaker and stream Pandora (when signal is available anyway).
Damn you dsrace! It's bad ass suggestions like this that make me obsess instead of finishing the damn thing! 5:
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Finally got a plasma cutter! Bwahaha! I'm dangerous now! I told my wife, "When I get a new tool in the mail I'm not opening a box with a tool, I'm opening a box full of possibilities!"
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi195.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fz74%2Fkomelika%2F12748062_10207273697833236_1574093542196097899_o_zpsmxhagizv.jpg&hash=9e5c1aa8852f32b4fd7763b3cf0caab8c99c7179)
Need to fab some cord and cable hangers on my cart this weekend.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi195.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fz74%2Fkomelika%2F12778733_10207273697633231_5870933121647549303_o_zpsm0eyjnai.jpg&hash=0cd2bc28f835d8386dc0c4d889e0c6d0f16a3413)
Can you take the Grounds from both the plasma Cutter and the Welder and Make a short Lead that bolts to the Cart and then have one ground cable from there to the work to Ditch one cable? Never seen it done .. just thinking out loud.
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I don't mind the extra ground. Makes it easier if I have to take one or the other to work at a friend's place anyway.
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That sounds bad ass! I was thinking about possibly doing a one piece roof back to the lights, but I hadn't thought about lights and speakers. I was just going to run with an Altec Bluetooth speaker and stream Pandora (when signal is available anyway).
Damn you dsrace! It's bad ass suggestions like this that make me obsess instead of finishing the damn thing! 5:
lol lol well just a suggestion and easily done at this stage in the building process lol and an i pod or something like that can be plugged directly into an amp then out to speakers or even your phone as long as it has a head phone jack. then you could take your play list with you and let everyone else hear it lol lol dome lights are very nice and one over the engine just in case might come in handy! if not for anything else than add fuel in the dark for a night ride lol
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Can you take the Grounds from both the plasma Cutter and the Welder and Make a short Lead that bolts to the Cart and then have one ground cable from there to the work to Ditch one cable? Never seen it done .. just thinking out loud.
you could but I believe it would not be to code nor completely electrically safe.Probably need to ask someone that knows for sure tho.