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If you overlap the glass by 1/2 on the first layer it gives you two layers at once and lays down more evenly without thick and thin spots. I assume that since you are building this from the inside out that your first layer will be 1708 or something similar and you will finish it off with a couple of layers of 1 1/2 oz mat. If you wipe your radiuses with the back of a spoon they come out really nice and it is a cheap tool that is made of stainless steel so it cleans up easy. If you keep track of the materials you use and the cloth and the resin weigh about the same you are good. If the resin is more than 60% of the total weight the Coast Guard will not approve the work. When the body is done if you spray it with gel coat and sand and polish that you can keep repairing damage and scratches for about an eternity and they blend in invisibly. It is also much harder and more scratch resistant then paint. You may never want to make another one of these bodies but if you make a mold off of it you will have some thing to make repair panels from you know just in case. The mold would have to be multipart in order to be able to release. If you want to do that and aren't familiar let me know. I assume that you are familiar with catalyzing resin and know the dangers.Any one that doesn't know mix equal amounts of resin and catalyst some place where you do not mind having a fire and let us know what happens. I seen a boat builder have a major fire from a resin gun that was leaking M.E.K. being left hanging in the mold that a 36' boat was being built in. With you knowing "Duratec" by name you probably already know all of this.If it helps you or any one else it was worth the time it took to type it.And I am probably the slowest typer here.
the scoops do add a nice touch and i wonder if they would help direct the air flow out the back with a windshield?? since i hear most say the windshield winds up swirling the air and sending sand back at them.