DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => Motor and Drivetrain => Topic started by: Icky on June 10, 2009, 11:29:38 PM
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So after following lockedup's build thread i got some new inspiration to make some progress in my design. Since i can't build anything not complicated i wanted to see what you guys thought about this idea. I've kinda decided to do an ecotec with a TH-350 with a homemade v-drive type thing that we won't get into. I thought about the toyota straight axle as well, but i'm worried about how it's going to dune, mainly traversing across the top of the dune. I want IRS, but i'm afraid a mendi 4e is outta my price range as i'm trying to buy a house as well. A bus trans is cheaper, but i'm worried about reliability again. Then there's the RPM with the CVT, which i've heard is pretty reliable, and even if you broke worse you'd have to do is change the belt, but that's to easy. IRS from a car seems to wide for the travel i'd like to have but I found this, what do ya think, will it hold up, i plan on driving it like i stole it.
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They already make a rear end just like that with the large flanges right off the housing in a IRS setup. Its not much narrower than the Ford diff I showed in the other thread (if any). But its LOTZ LOTZ more $$$$. Cooler looking too I guess if you got money to burn.
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the one by xtrac? 247 Heavy Duty Differentialhttp://www.xtrac.com/# (http://www.xtrac.com/#) I've heard all there stuff is pretty pricey. I pulled the dimensions off Winters website, with only 3 3/4" width on the banjo, it leads me to believe (without having on in front of me) that you could reasonably get your CV centers to about 6" with custom side bells. ;D Maybe with a custom spool, you could...... I'm gonna have to draw it dammit.
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how much for that housing?
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BDKW1 has done that exact thing...
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wyatt, i don't know how much the housing is, couldn't find anyone that carried it online. I didn't find that the some of the quick change rearends complete are about 1500. and that those side bells are about 250 each. and I probably another 500 plus for the diff. I'll try to find out tomorrow, or is that today?
bug, you know now that you mention it, i do remember someone doing that, i just couldn't remember who. I think it was on the other site.From my memory though ( which is really good, just short :)) it was a quick change? and he didn't end up using it? I'll have to do some more research unless you care to shed light on this?
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A complete winters rear housing is 2800.00 bux, and thats the low grade version..
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Not to rain on the parade, cause I like doing stuff the hard way to.... ::) But a bus would hold up to an Ecotec very well, and if your starting with a stock Eco, that all new aluminum case 091 would work great. When you decide to upgrade the motor, you could upgrade the tranny at the same time.
Tranny:
http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=1751.0 (http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=1751.0)
Here is the Thread with the quick change by Bdkw1. This will get me some smite's. :-\
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/projects-progress/5073-midi-buggy.html (http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/projects-progress/5073-midi-buggy.html)
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what about a mazda miata rear? the diff housing is basically the pumpkin with flanges. on the 92 or so models. the newer ones have splines.. but the diff is small, and the axles are equal lengths. could just use the diff, axles, uprights and wheel hubs.. make your own arms. i wanted to do this for myself......
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This will get me some smite's. :-\
Not from Me ;D
Anyhoo, there are a couple different company's making QC IRS rearends. They are narrower than the 091 depending on the company. The speedway one is about 16" flange to flange. The B&J one is about 9" F2F.
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Subaru... Then you got the axles as well... ;D
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Not from Me ;D
Your log is a half dozen pages down now BD. I thought about posting something just to bump it...... Or you could post an update! ;D I have all the parts gathered, now just need some time to get started with the F-150 bearing/CV rear. Thanks for the inspiration. ;)
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i did find his build log last night after i wrote that. He started with something else then switched to the QC. But he hasn't up dated it. I read somewhere on RDC that B&J has a QC narrower then 8inchs that someone is testing, i can only imagine how much that is though. I like the bus box, i'm just afraid of backing up with it :). That Banjo doesn't have the quick change on it, so i'm hoping it will be a tad cheaper.
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Nutz what kinda ford was that rearend out of? what's the flange centers on those?
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He started with something else then switched to the QC.
They were both QC diffs, the first one was a speedway 7" IRS unit. The problem with it other than getting parts out of them was that the ring gear is a hypoid gear not a spiral bevel gear meaning it couldn't be flipped to change rotation. I also couldn't flip the housing like MasterFaber did due to the output shaft location on the motor. The second unit is from Winters. They don't actually make an IRS diff so I had to machine a few things....... At this point years down the road, I wish I had spent the coin and bought the Elite unit with the Torque Biasing Diff.
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what made you go with the QC vs the non QC like i posted? I've been looking at their catalog online and it looks like they have an IRS now. but I would end up trying to make that narrower as well.
But I did find these ;D
https://rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=36 (https://rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=36)
Which might help some people, claiming up to 40 degrees. Close to what your F-150 CVs were getting if i remember correctly.
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QC gears are relatively cheap and quick if you want to change gear ratio's. I had in mind what I thought a good ratio would be, but you never know till you run it. I picked up a couple of used sets around the ratio I started with off Feepay for about 15 bucks a set.
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i was thinking about making my own little V-drive, but not really a V outta QC gears, I could buy two of their rear covers that hold the bearings build my own center section and modify it from there, then i could adjust the ratios from there if i needed to. They make helical cut QC gears which would make it stronger and quieter.
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Don't know it anyone cares, but I thought i'd share. I called Winters today, a month after i said I would (been busy with work and i'm lazy sometimes) and for their Aluminum center section kit non quick change (with a 10" ring & pinion, bearings etc, no side bells, spool or axle tubes) it was $658 and some change, forgot to write it down. ::) Some guy is gonna call me next week who deals with people like me or us ;Dthat has helped people put together alot of custom applications. Any thoughts on power loss running though a th350 to a v-drive of sorts to this rearend? Vs a transaxle or CVT stup?
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The T350 is going to be the power robber. It will also be the parts savior.
If your dead set on a IRS QC rear end, I might no of a complete unit that came out of on of the LVDC cars for sale. More than your center section kit, but a lot less than machining all the parts your self.......
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Just the person i wanted to hear from. :) How wide is it? picture? Price? On your qc rear what stopped you from making it narrower then you did. From my laptop re-engineering ( well call it that so I don't start any fires ;D) it looks like as long as you could offset the rearend in the car, you could get that other CV cup sucked inside the housing a bit to make it narrower. I'm shooting for 6" between cv centers, probably unrealistic though. Maybe i'll draw it. I'm not to worried about machining, I have access to a lazer, lathes, mills (though i'm not even close to a machinist) and a friend of mine has his own CNC shop. I might go read your thread again
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6" is very unrealistic. I belive this one is the 10" relm. The last price I heard out of him was 1500 with spares. The flanges are 934.........