Crazy Fast Build

[Carlriddle]

    Looks like I cant call Fabr's ride fat ass no longer.   

With that weight, you gonna need that deep gearing offroad.  No for some dirty pics!!!

[fabr]

Nope,only need that deep a gear for the sand...........................

[dsrace]

what tube wall thickness did you go with?

[CrazyFastFab]

It is 120 wall

Took it for a ride in the sand and it popped a radiator hose. I had notice that the hayabusa gauge was reading hot being a few hundred feet from the camper I turn and drove there just before we got there pop.  The after market gauge is just before where it popped and was reading 150.  The oil pressure was pegged when it popped as well. Could the water pump not be working? Does it even have a water pump?  As always thanks for the help.

[fabr]

Yes on the pump. You have likely got air trapped in the cooling system. Need to purge ALL air from it and your trobles are over. Where is your temp sender located?

[dsrace]

lol that is what i made my main frame out of so now i have to wonder what mine actually weighs lol

hard to tell on the hose but last time i saw something like that it was an air pocket in the system so it wasn't cooling. the temp diff's on the different guages is strange. your pump could be out but you need to find out what kind of pump it is first. they can be a real pain to get all the air bled out of, there is a hose coming off the thermostat housing that is to aid or i use to aid in bleeding the air out. your thermostat could be stuck closed as well. easy to tell, pull that hose that is attached to the top of the thermostat housing top, pull it off the radiator and see if anite freeze comes out while the engine is running. if there is then the pump is working, working correctly is to be determined though.

[dsrace]

i have never taken a water pump apart on a sport bike so i am not sure if it is a rubber impeller or gear.

[dsrace]

also did you plumb the radiator correctly? the hose off the water pump to the lower outlet of the radiator? just asking cause that could cause a problem too. i agree with fabbr that what you describe is more likely a trapped air pocket.

[CrazyFastFab]

Thanks a ton for the quick response.  I have to admit I have plumbed it one way and them the other assuming I had it wrong the first time both times I have popped a hose..  So the hose come off of the bottom of the engine should go to the top or bottom of the radiator?

[CrazyFastFab]

It did seem to drive OK for the short time we got to drive.  It might be a little low on the gears but it did pretty well.  I don't think I am going to change it.  I have to get used to shifting been a while since I drove a sand car that had to be shifted.

The front end needs more dampening.  I wish it was like RC cars where you just go to a thicker oil.

[fabr]

Top outlet goes to top of rad.Water pump receives water from bottom rad hose.

Have you seen that they have RC shocks with true shim stacks now? Tuning RC cars suspension with more than just springs and oil viscosity! Them boys are really coming along. I have a buddy that is just ate up with the RC stuff.

[dsrace]

with 2.0 fox air shocks you can add up to an additional 30 cc oil in 10 cc increments to help with dampening. once you have added all 300 cc's and haven't got it where you want it then you pull them a part and drain the 30 cc out and revalve to slower rates and start over. i am not sure about sway away though, you would have to call and ask them.   as far as your radiator.....the hose coming off the thermostat housing goes up to the top inlet of the radiator and the bottom outlet of the radiator goes down to the water pump. i always have my radiators built for my app and motor so i have bungs welded in my radiators for things like bypass's and temp sensors on the inlet sides. i hook the burp line that come off the top of the thermostat housing to my inlet side of the radiators to help get the air out.  fabbr is right if you get an air pocket trapped in the block it will be a pain to get out.  i would change the thermostat to be sure that isn't it and while you have it out drill a 1/8" hold through some part of it to let air and water bleed by before it opens. it won't hurt anything and some remove the thermostats all together.

[fabr]

KEEP the stat. The bypass hole/s in the stat are a good idea but not an absolute need.
 While we're at it,forget all the BS about water wetters and such. Pure distilled water with just enough antifreeze to keep from freezing is your best bet for coolant.Use as little AF as you can. It takes a very low concentration to provide corrosion protection and the less used the better the cooling system will work.Just be sure to use enough to provide freeze protection where you live . Forget the 50/50 rule unless you live where it gets COLD.

[fabr]

BTW,those new RC shocks with adjustable shim stacks cost about 20 bux compared to our shocks at 300-1000 bux a corner. Maybe I should have taken up RC offroading............................

[CrazyFastFab]

Thanks, my son and I have been racing RC10B5s and RC10SB's for the last year.  It is a blast, I can tell you that the parts are cheaper but they turn into a money pit just the same.

Sounds like I have the radiator plumb correctly.  I will put a bleeder in the thermostat housing.