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$10 A CUT?!?!?!?!! Damn,they really stick it to ya there! I gotta ask though.How you planning on cutting the tube and stuff? I'm not TRYING to be a smartass either. THe reason I ask is that the first 2 cars I built I used a hacksaw and a fricken file. I didn't have so much as a grinder. All I had basically was a drill,a hacksaw ,a file and an ancient scratch start TIG rig. I farmed all my bends out. Simply put, I did what I had to do to get what I wanted. Where there's a will there's a way ya know. Fortunately that was over 30 years ago. Now I'm a spoiled rotten old BRUSHFIRE! LOL!!!!! I'm REALLY glad those days are behind me. We're behind you and know that you'll get the job done. When you hit a hard spot ,as we all have,someone here will jump right in and offer help. Be sure to feel free to ask any and all questions you wish and keep the pics coming.
More common and maybe better for the task woulkd be 2 inch metal like a hitch reciever uses. Easier to find to I bet. With longer pieces of a tight greased fit (get your minds out of the gutterz.... :P) it would be stabler than the short distances you propose above.The bender part will need to remain solid or at least not tippable in degrees. As you pull on the tube to bend it if the bender slides any degrees in the mount and you do not account for it the tube will likely be bent off by at least that much! (and thats if you was dead on to begin with)The bender need not be level (but that nice if it is. IMO) But if its off a few degrees you will need a plane of bend measuremnt and work off it. If the bender flexes it will be off. If the bender tips any. Unless you account for it. You would need to measure the top of the bender in at least two different directions then double check afterwards. IMO you are asking for issues doing it this way for the sake of easy change to vice etc. What I would recommend is and anchor plate on the floor with studs. The anchor oplate remains there and you unbolt the whole stand to put the new stand there for different tools. The studs are a tripping hazzard but its the price you pay for this kind of deal. You can cover them when not in use with a piece of wood with beveled sides so its not so bad and not gonna kill you if you fall on it. I know its not what you want to hear. I do not see the device you made above holding a bender solid enough myself without it being hydraulic and all the forces being contained in it. Its your game though.
I agree with the rigidity also but there are several that have used benders mounted like he's suggesting. I've even seen some that were literally using the receiver hitch on the truck! Would I like/do it? NO,but it does work. I like the pedestal mounted to the floor but he hasn't the room
Oh and nice cart. With some practice you'll be as good as most of us. Most of us can only wish we had the skills of a few here. I wish I had the /hands some do !
Thanks for the feedback. The only difference I see in this idea and the optional pedestal that can be ordered with the bender is the interchangeablity. I wouldn't mount studs in the floor. Instead I would put heavy duty concrete anchor inserts and use 1/2 in lag screws and washers to mount the pedestal. That would eliminate the trip hazard when they aren't in use. I can't imagine the 2"x3" square tubing flexing much under load, especially if it is reinforced with 1.75" square tubing rosette welded down the base.
I know he is hurting for room Fabr. I am just pointing out a few things that might affect his bends. Nothing worse than your first few bends being all screwy and you are not aware of why. Might be worse yet if someone could saved yah the headache and did not! One would like to think that someone at least showed you how to work around it to get the desired results.