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"AP" Member Project Logs / Re: got the red rail home.
« Last post by dsrace on Today at 09:51:57 AM »
Didn't want to work on Scott's anymore but, since I'll be running the red rail for this next trip, it needs a bit more work. First on the list is re seal the left trans cv cup. It was leaking gear lube into the cv on the last trip. Brakes, they kept fading on the last trip and the rears suck by design. Thought I had a bad master cyl on The front but after some checking, it looks like the front wheel bearings are too loose. I repacked the old bearings and thought I had them re assembled correctly. I was rocking the wheel and there is more move.ent then should be. I will have to shim if I cannot move one cotter pin hole.

Rear end, ordered new springs as it is bad. Many saw how bad it pogo sticker on the dunes. It was set up for a lot more weight then I'm putting to it so thats one factor.  Comp rate is 60 and rebound is 90. Going to slow rebound to 2-1 , if I have the shims and I ordered 225/325lbs springs. It is coil assist air shock so I would rather go light and add psi. It currently has 325/400 lb springs. Setting ride height with only .5" of pre load now. I know I can go as much as 2" of pre load. The cross over collar is set just about as high as it can go to avoid coil bind now.  That is a massive drop in spring rate and coils aren't cheap.  Ill bring the old 325 upper with me and if nessacary ill swap the 225 out. Don't have room or time to calculate it out the right way at this time. The pogo sticking is dangerous imo as it makes it very un predictable.

Would also like to install the other seats but thats low on the do to list.
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Motor and Drivetrain / Re: I want it i need it.....its time
« Last post by dsrace on Today at 09:37:29 AM »
Did not know any of that ! Great info.

I am not sure on glue or gasket. I know both well but ease of replacement is a factor and we both know which one is easier.
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Motor and Drivetrain / Re: I want it i need it.....its time
« Last post by fabr on April 18, 2024, 08:04:07 PM »
Ground tooth jig saw blades will not be painted and teeth have very sharp points like circular saw blades are. The blade will usually be hollow ground as well making tight radius cuts easier. 10 points per inch is a good choice. The teeth will also be alternate set left/right just like a good saw blade is as opposed to regular wavy set junk.
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Motor and Drivetrain / Re: I want it i need it.....its time
« Last post by dsrace on April 18, 2024, 07:01:01 AM »


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Motor and Drivetrain / Re: I want it i need it.....its time
« Last post by dsrace on April 18, 2024, 06:35:20 AM »
pulled one of the rear shocks off of scotts rail last night. the coils are 14" 325 top and 16" 400 bottom with only 1/2" of pre load! bottom needs to be 16" tall but the top should be 12" rather then 14" tall. you can barely get the coil rings on.  clearly over sprung for my application and my son in law,  so , going to stop at speedway tonight and hope to get 300 lower and 250 upper. that should take the pog stick out.
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Motor and Drivetrain / Re: I want it i need it.....its time
« Last post by dsrace on April 18, 2024, 06:30:13 AM »
No need to wet sand the edges. Dry is fine. I suggest at least 2 thickness masking tape on saw foot and 2 on the windshield just to be safe against scratches. HINT:Use ONLY sharp,ground teeth jig saw blades. Do not use fine tooth types either.Are you doing a glue in?  I figured you would do a rubber mount. I pretty much had no choice but I think I would do the rubber mount again. I have some scrap material and will do a couple bends to see if the coating scratches/fractures.

i guess i had never heard of ground tooth jig saw blades but ill look into it.  i did tell him i wanted 1/4" thick and the cat gasket is good for 3/16" to 1/4". the jk wrangler windshield doens't have much curve to it but it does have a curve where the older wrangler windshields are flat.

on the fence as to glue in or gasket. i know which style gasket you used and if i use gasket it will be what i call the self locking cat style.  here is a link to graingers site that sells what i call self locking cat gasket.   

https://www.grainger.com/product/10G557?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:MS:CSM-2295:TVRYAD:20501231&gclid=f5e4a3db1f7e1cd15cd4c5fa0f971a91&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=f5e4a3db1f7e1cd15cd4c5fa0f971a91&gclid=f5e4a3db1f7e1cd15cd4c5fa0f971a91&gclsrc=3p.ds
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Motor and Drivetrain / Re: I want it i need it.....its time
« Last post by fabr on April 17, 2024, 11:55:03 AM »
No need to wet sand the edges. Dry is fine. I suggest at least 2 thickness masking tape on saw foot and 2 on the windshield just to be safe against scratches. HINT:Use ONLY sharp,ground teeth jig saw blades. Do not use fine tooth types either.Are you doing a glue in?  I figured you would do a rubber mount. I pretty much had no choice but I think I would do the rubber mount again. I have some scrap material and will do a couple bends to see if the coating scratches/fractures.
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Motor and Drivetrain / Re: I want it i need it.....its time
« Last post by dsrace on April 17, 2024, 11:23:54 AM »
I called and spoke with the guy at optic armor. Hell of a nice guy and has a lot of experience in the auto glass field as well as knowledgeable into the adhesives, adhesion promotors and primers we use.  I have tried many variations of many brands of urethane adhesives over the last 32 years in this field.

Optic armor is located by the lake of the Ozarks. They ride at ls dunes and have visited silverlake. 6 hr drive to ls ok though.

The reasons I mention the urethane adhesives is because their drop ins are produced with a frit to be glued in. The reason there coating works so well is its silicone based. So 220 grit sand paper to knock the coating off and the apply the black frit primer we use to glue a non glass frit model in. That model is called oversized as the square cut the cut to shape. Going that route is about $100 cheaper then a drop in. Found it very interesting that the windshields can be shaped in a sweet metal break and that they'll hold shape. He said you have to over bend it more then one would think but it works well.

Measured my opening last night and my max opening is 22x41".   They offer a line of drop in jeep windshields as well. Where I would prefer some curve just for asthetics,  flat is fine to. So surprisingly they make a windshield for a jk wrangler, they have a curve about that of the s 10 windshield. The over sized version block size is 18.7 x 56". That may not need be cut down in height, just width and radius the corners. He said jig saw and I have a 2000 grid wet sander at work I can use to sand fine tune it. Over sized  jk .25"x18.7x56" is $380 plus $50 shipping. 4 weeks out and it ordered one.

They use a 3m frit primer and Bostwick urethane #70-08a.


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Motor and Drivetrain / Re: I want it i need it.....its time
« Last post by dsrace on April 17, 2024, 06:37:58 AM »








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Motor and Drivetrain / Re: I want it i need it.....its time
« Last post by fabr on April 17, 2024, 06:34:17 AM »
Maybe I'm wrong but the only advantage to rear engine configuration is if a person wants to wheelie at will. I prefer the front stay down.
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