Drilling wheels

[Punkur67]

I don't want to use the alum washers on my wheels for the flat wheel to acorn lug nut. Can I buy a counterbore bit made for the acorn nut? All my wheel flanges are 5/8 billet so there is plenty of meat to drill.

[Boostinjdm]

do you have to run the acorn nuts?  I think I know what you want, but pics would be helpful.

[Rick S.]

Are you saying that you want to c'sink the alum. wheel for the nut's taper?
I remember reading somewhere not to do this with alum. wheels.
Most are designed with the holes sized tight to the studs for location. If you c'sink the wheel it can egg out the hole over time. I could be wrong, but this is what I've heard.
   

[Punkur67]

Here are the nuts i want to run. http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PC&Product_Code=WHL014&Category_Code=I want to drill a countersink or bore (not shure of the correct term here) so the nuts have the proper mating surface and not need to run these stupid washers.

[Punkur67]

And I will expose more threads by doing this also.

[Yummi]

I use the washers - they are not too bad.   never thought about drilling the wheels.....

 

[Punkur67]

Are you saying that you want to c'sink the alum. wheel for the nut's taper?
I remember reading somewhere not to do this with alum. wheels.
Most are designed with the holes sized tight to the studs for location. If you c'sink the wheel it can egg out the hole over time. I could be wrong, but this is what I've heard.
   

Yes, this is what I want to do. They are so thick I figured it would not affect them. I just want to go in about 5/16. That is half way. There are other wheels that are thinner than 5/16 at the mounting surface, like my old douglas wheels.

[fastcorvairs]

Here are the nuts i want to run. http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PC&Product_Code=WHL014&Category_Code=I want to drill a countersink or bore (not shure of the correct term here) so the nuts have the proper mating surface and not need to run these stupid washers.

Pictures of the your rim's.

Show us some pic's of you rim's.  Are you saying that you have a 5/8 thix rim that does not have a lug nut champher in them? I though that the .190 non bead locks were the only ones that required the big washers.

[Punkur67]

I use the washers - they are not too bad.   never thought about drilling the wheels.....

 

I have in the past. Just hate them cause its just one more thing to loose in the sand

[Rick S.]

If it were me I would open up the wheel holes to accept stainless slugs with the taper.
The tapered slugs would have a wide flanged head and be pressed into the wheel. 

[Punkur67]

Pictures of the your rim's.

Show us some pic's of you rim's.  Are you saying that you have a 5/8 thix rim that does not have a lug nut champher in them? I though that the .190 non bead locks were the only ones that required the big washers.

Yes the rim is 5/8 at the wheel mounting surface.

[Punkur67]

There are pics of the wheels on my build page. Sorry having trouble getting the pics of the car off my computer
 
http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=561.30

[SPEC]

I'm with Rick on this one
Punch them and put in the inserts...I was just out looking at the wheels I use that have tapered lugs and they all have the insert...Bonus is no washers to loose as you stated...Bad is I don't have a clue where to get them :-[

[Punkur67]

I found these...
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1DBX9
 
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1DBY5
 
Thought they might do the job.
Anybody have an idea where to get the stainless inserts?

[Doug Heim]

be sure you get the correct angle. I did this once and believe the angle was 82*, Not 60*.