H-arm vs Trailing arm

[fabr]

And nearly no extra weight.Deduct the heim weight and I think it's a winning combination.

[dsrace]

I'd rather have a solid connection like a 4wd front snout. It's piloted in the hub plate and once set it'll take a shitload of abuse without failure.6 3/8ths bolts and it might as well be welded in place.

can you pm me a link to a pic of something like you are referring to?

[dsrace]

And nearly no extra weight.Deduct the heim weight and I think it's a winning combination.

 no extra, weight, chatter, lubrication or expense.

[fabr]

I don't have a thing but what's in my head. I've had chevy 70-80's 1/2  and 3/4 ton 4WD fronts apart a million times. The snouts(spindles)  for the wheel bearings to ride on are bolted to the front end housing.Like 2" hollow snouts  that trophy trucks use.

[fabr]

no extra, weight, chatter, lubrication or expense.

You got that right!

[dsrace]

I don't have a thing but what's in my head. I've had chevy 70-80's 1/2  and 3/4 ton 4WD fronts apart a million times. The snouts(spindles)  for the wheel bearings to ride on are bolted to the front end housing.Like 2" hollow snouts  that trophy trucks use.

I follow you but am still going to have to see a pic to know for sure. I am not real familiar with those front ends.

[fabr]

I should have said the snouts bolt to the knuckle.

[dsrace]

I should have said the snouts bolt to the knuckle.

I can picture that, but I think it might still be easier to use 4 heims at the wheel side. either way will work but if you go the other route I would like to see some pics.

[fabr]

BBQ buggy had rear knuckles with mounts similar to your lower  h-arms. Hated it. Gonna try it this way I think this time. 

[Engineer]

gotta and that is what I was reffering to. I do like the idea on the bottom and I think two pivot points on the top would be fine but still have to have the gusseted tabs on the top.

what do you think of a lower h-arm with a third member welded to it half way up the arm or so rather than at the wheel to clear the frame?

yes I too like paint, it is quicker than opening my solid works program.
something like this looks good to me, what do you think?

Good ideas!  I like the frame end of the arms being as wide as possible.  It will reduce the hit on the mounts.  3 mounts really won't help.  It will only provide potential bind.  The two end mounts will still take all the stress.

On the outer end why use 4 mount points?  Another point for potential bind.   I would select the top or bottom arm to be the dominant arm, then beef it up, and use two mounting points on it and 1 on the other arm.

Bushings are great on the frame side mounts.  If you want to use them at the outer mount, you could have a shaft that runs front to rear, and holds both bushings in the carrier.  bolt the shaft to the end of the A-arm at each end.  This would be your shim point for toe change.  If you used a single heim on top, you could use it for camber adjustment.  Just a thought.

[fabr]

Good ideas!  I like the frame end of the arms being as wide as possible.  It will reduce the hit on the mounts.  3 mounts really won't help.  It will only provide potential bind.  The two end mounts will still take all the stress.

On the outer end why use 4 mount points?  Another point for potential bind.   I would select the top or bottom arm to be the dominant arm, then beef it up, and use two mounting points on it and 1 on the other arm.

Bushings are great on the frame side mounts.  If you want to use them at the outer mount, you could have a shaft that runs front to rear, and holds both bushings in the carrier.  bolt the shaft to the end of the A-arm at each end.  This would be your shim point for toe change.  If you used a single heim on top, you could use it for camber adjustment.  Just a thought.

Except for side hits.I still like the third link for that reason regardless of the small potential for bind.
I understand your thinking but again as before I like the rigidity of the 4 mounts locations .
I think you'll run into clearance issues like that.