TIPS:
Chassis:
If your not always being razzed by your mates about being short, add at least 100mm to the driver compartment,
100-150mm for the engine bay if you use a V-twin.
It is wise to add an X brace in the rear roll hoop.
Add extra width at the rear roll hoop at the hip rail. saves your elbows from the hip rail.
Single Front suspension arms:
You will NEED a triangulation brace from the lower rail to the upper rail where the shock mounts. Arms will crack and break.
Front uprights:
You will NEED the backing plate that the brake caliper mount to, even if you don't fit the brakes. The stub axle will tear out.
The std single shear steering arms need uprating to about 8mm flatbar. they bend badly at 6mm
Rear Drive:
Shims for spacing the sprocket away from the stuff it can possibly scrape on.
If you go for big HP check out Mick's (on the edge forum) modifications to the rear carrier, he has added stiffening plates and rods.
All pivots:
weld a keeper around the pivot bolt head to prevent it turning. will flog out the holes in the mounts.
Front shock setup:
DON NOT EVER allow you front wheels go into positive camber. very unstable, esp. over jumps and through corners
shift connection:
Push pull cables are easy to route but feel sloppy when shifting in comparison to a linkage system.
dual pedal brakes:
Stick with them if your regulations will allow it. once you re-learn braking with them you'll appreciate the complete control for racing.
