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UTV General Discussion / Re: Chassis table.
« Last post by dsrace on Today at 03:21:40 PM »
just use some really cheap square tube, light and cheap. otherwise you can build one out of wood. make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy and don't leave it inside after you've welded or used a grinder on it.  ;)

prob even use gas pipe if you have a source on the cheap.
UTV General Discussion / Re: Chassis table.
« Last post by big dave on Today at 02:36:44 PM »
This is how I got it done in the 90s  LMAO

UTV General Discussion / Chassis table.
« Last post by big dave on Today at 02:31:13 PM »
I have been dreaming for a few years about building a tube Chassis Baja. what is everyone doing for a chassis table????????  I would like to keep it simple. oversize 2 care shop. I  will  only use it one time.  found this sand rail for parts. then the body off my old 65 baja that I built around 1995 . Sale the sand rail frame and build new Chassis with a D@Sracing front end. keeping it 091 bus and my old 2275 turbo injected motor

The Pit Stop / Re: Solitude
« Last post by big dave on Today at 02:07:53 PM »
little bit of haven right there.
UTV Member Project Logs / Re: AR-51 build
« Last post by dsrace on Today at 01:11:50 PM »
what is this angle?
Welding/Cutting/Bending/Forming / Re: Got this weird Welder
« Last post by dsrace on Today at 10:45:05 AM »
make sure you have a 12g extension cord and a real 20 amp outlet thats on a real 20 amp breaker cause you'll prob be welding in the 160 amp setting. as old as it is i doubt it will produce like it once did.
UTV Member Project Logs / Re: AR-51 build
« Last post by dsrace on Today at 10:30:30 AM »
i understand your thought process of gaining 3* here and move it there. the way the chain adjusts you will always have some misalignent there. if the a arms truly stroke straight up and down and no rake at the cradle then that 3* offset is due to  wheel base with out changing the chassis imo. big question is how much axle plunge do you currently have? 2nd... how much angle are your running now? how long are your axles? what is the track width with paddles on?  i ask these questions as i run non plunge 930 cv's. with the turbo busa i had , i had them limited at 35* withy straps. now on my current i have them limited at 30* and am using the same cvs from before which are going on 5 years old.

bypass shocks would/are fantastic.  if the lower arms were wider at the frame you wouldnt need that link bar. it def seems to work.

i want to say that when designing an a arm rear end that everything does need to pivot at the same points. so that 3* offeset really shouldnt be there. must be a reason for it. however, straightening those lines wont gain you a lot of wheel travel imo. longer axles and higher angle cvs would.
The Pit Stop / Re: Solitude
« Last post by dsrace on Today at 10:20:21 AM »
you got that right! those are the best trips as long as you dontrun out of fuel.
The Pit Stop / Solitude
« Last post by fabr on Today at 10:16:20 AM »
First time ever.  I was the only person in the dunes. Totally empty. Priceless.
UTV Member Project Logs / Re: AR-51 build
« Last post by deranged on Today at 05:27:32 AM »
All right,
After looking at the rear of my car, I think there can be some improvements.  I really like the way the car handles with the a arms.  However looking at the car from a plan view (above) the center spool center-line and the micro-stub center line are on 2 different planes.  Roughly 2".  Correct me if i'm wrong, but I believe I can get more travel if those 2 center lines (spool and stub) were in line?  Say its 3* forward and i center things up, would you agree that may be more down travel as far as the CV angles go?
Below is the plan view.

By thought is to build new arms and a trailing link if you will to center things up.  ALSO, add 2" to each side.  My other idea is to keep the shock in it's position and add a bypass.  I think I can squeeze another 3" out if it, possibly 1" more if I step up to a 30" tire and the track width would be around 80"

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