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Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => "AP" Member Project Logs => Topic started by: dsrace on December 08, 2016, 07:10:01 AM
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The local guy that did the porting on my heads for my Fairlane said he preferred to keep the ports smaller to increase velocity rather than making them as big as possible.
and i wasn't trying to make the ports bigger just smooth all the sharp leadges in them and there were a lot of those! i wish i could get a clear pic of the stock ports it would amaze everyone it looks like a set of steps in there litterally.
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You never asked.
i know and i should've ;) and this is why i have a back up head and two cracked ones to practice on! ;D ;D
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please explain
You don't really want to know. ...........
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Smart man.
the local head machine shop here that does heads also told me this and said to stay with stock size valves and not to put a much higher lift cam in to maintain velocity. i didn't hog the shit out of the ports just tried to transition the ledges.
i did not realize i needed to start 1" down from the valve seat. there was slag up higher but still that i didn't know and wish i did but again spare head. ;)
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You don't really want to know. ...........
actually i do .... i find this topic very interesting
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and i wasn't trying to make the ports bigger just smooth all the sharp leadges in them and there were a lot of those! i wish i could get a clear pic of the stock ports it would amaze everyone it looks like a set of steps in there litterally.
Without knowing exactly what you are describing,those may have been a design feature to actually enhance flow or to influence swirl and tumble.
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swirl and tumble. Watch this just to get you started. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIUmQJwVfuw
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swirl/tumble is why so many of the new engine designs run so well. this stuff was cutting edge when I attended the Superflow conferences. Almost no one there had ever even heard of it.
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very interesting video and would take a whole lot of reading up to fully understand it. but i think i get the main point. it really does show ya some amazing actions going on inside!
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The point is,in all reality,for most all uses,starting with a decent head and doing a port match and lightly massaging the first inch under the valve along with a good 5 angle grind will give the best results.
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Without knowing exactly what you are describing,those may have been a design feature to actually enhance flow or to influence swirl and tumble.
enemy bought a stage III bo port head. not cheap but they start with a stock n/a head and take it from 150 cfm to 210 i believe but like you said it's not all about cfm and he goes with the larger valves but does some very interesting port work. now i studied it a while and took a few pics for mental notes lol and those steps i was smoothing out are not in that bo port head, in fact they are not as drastic nor are there as many in the stock turbo head which is D port as well. you really see them in the n/a heads if i get some time i will clean one port to try and show you. it appears like it was the machining process they used at diff angles. bo port btw is one of the leading 2.3 head shops with cnc equipment to do most of it. now i didn't know about that angle cut under the seat and now i do lol good info that bo port head has made a very impressive diff in performance in enemys turbo 2.3 ranger. that is one wild ride!
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The point is,in all reality,for most all uses,starting with a decent head and doing a port match and lightly massaging the first inch under the valve along with a good 5 angle grind will give the best results.
absolutely and that is what i was trying to do however like i said.....i'm learning ;D and need all that good info from those with experience. where it is messy i kind of enjoy it ! i can see now that a certain part of it really doesn't apply on a turbo engine and can see what your talking about. but....it all ads up when done right for certain apps.
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there are a lot of posts on the turbo ford forums where transitioning and polishing a bit plus cleaning up the comb chambers has taken the 150 cfm head to 180 with no more than i did really so i take that as doesn't take much to improve but a small mistake and well you know ;D ;D and i have another to play with now
fast when you swapped motors before you sold that green rail you were talking that spare motor had actual turbo heads on it and that they made a noticeable diff........ did you ever look into the differences between n/a and turbo head specs?
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this is along the lines of what i'm shooting for.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi202.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faa298%2Fonesillynotch%2Fturbo%2520notch%2FMattS-Best_zpszkan2hex.png&hash=31a6032d4c9d624c2e0ef2f773d5ea565b704f88) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/onesillynotch/media/turbo%20notch/MattS-Best_zpszkan2hex.png.html)
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here is a post with some good pics of the ledges i was talking about
http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=058466;p=0 (http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=058466;p=0)