Author Topic: Boxed trailing arms  (Read 7123 times)

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Offline Yoshi

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Re: Boxed trailing arms
« Reply #15 on: July 14, 2009, 07:13:58 AM »
I've been thinking about switching to the boxed arms for a while now, but was under the impression it would take a lot longer to weld them up than to just building them out of tube.  I've seen them done different ways, with some that have quite a bit of internal cross plates, and some that have none at all, I wasn't sure the best way to go about constructing them, but I may go ahead and gets some drawings over to the plasma cutter so I can at least get a set built and see what I think.......

What's the most common thickness to go with?
« Last Edit: July 14, 2009, 07:19:03 AM by Yoshi »

Offline BDKW1

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Re: Boxed trailing arms
« Reply #16 on: July 14, 2009, 11:12:40 AM »
Some well place bends cut down on welding time significantly.
 
bottom plate .156-.187
side and top plates .090-.125
internal ribs .060-.090
 
MC powered buggy's are going to be on the lighter side.
 
 

01SANDRAIL

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Re: Boxed trailing arms
« Reply #17 on: July 16, 2009, 03:03:28 PM »
The ones that I am building right now are made almost entirely out of 11ga. mild steel plate.
There are some other braces or (Ribs) inside as well. I am hoping to get them put together real soon. I am in the process of moving into the new bigger shop so as soon as that happens I am going to get some hood time and try them out. I know how long it takes to make a good set of tubular arms and I think these will be much faster. I will let you know once I have completed both sets that I am making.

standfast

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Re: Boxed trailing arms
« Reply #18 on: July 17, 2009, 02:46:35 PM »
If I were you I would make those top and bottom plates extend past the side plates and make them key together.  This
will give you a stronger inside corner weld as opposed to the more prone to cracking outside corner weld. BDKW1
suggested that to me after mine were already done and wished I could have gone back and used his advice.  Mine
have not cracked and I don't think they will but the idea made sense.  Then doing like that would make keying the parts
together easy and make assembly a cakewalk.  Boxed arms go together MUCH faster than tube arms.

Offline Doug Heim

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Re: Boxed trailing arms
« Reply #19 on: July 17, 2009, 04:02:55 PM »
I believe I posted this up before but I will do so again as it may be a great refrence for someone to use if they wish. This is a set that I drew up in CAD to have cut for a race truck. These are the front lower control arms for a double A-arm 4X4 suspention...









Offline fabr

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Re: Boxed trailing arms
« Reply #20 on: July 17, 2009, 06:57:02 PM »
Anyone want to show some pics  of the bung attachment/anchor  method they use in the sheetmetal.Seems to me like this is rarely addressed, and I'm curious as to how some of you have done it. . 
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Offline Doug Heim

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Re: Boxed trailing arms
« Reply #21 on: July 17, 2009, 09:05:30 PM »
the above arms are used with mono balls.

Offline BDKW1

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Re: Boxed trailing arms
« Reply #22 on: July 18, 2009, 12:21:24 AM »
Anyone want to show some pics  of the bung attachment/anchor  method they use in the sheetmetal.Seems to me like this is rarely addressed, and I'm curious as to how some of you have done it. .

On A-arms, I do the side plate first and weld the insides with the mig and tig the outside edges.
 
On a trailing arm in the rear, I have 4 pieces the hit it. The inner to get tiged to the end and then the outer pieces  hit about half way down the bung and get tiged on.

 

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