DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Member Project Logs => Topic started by: boltz2012 on October 16, 2008, 01:01:11 AM
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I started a new build log because i wanted just the info on the build in one thread. The others got clogged with allot of other info. Good info but way off from the build log.
The PLAN:
1. I want to build a two seat buggy powered buy a 600 that will be lite and affordable. I want to build it with as many off the shelf parts as possible. So if i break something i can run to the parts house and replace it. I'm going to explore the option of using a Honda trans on the buggy. Ill document everything about it so everyone will know what is going on. I think it is a good idea and would work great on a buggy with a chain. IMO
The PARTS
2. GSXR 600 motor with 1400 miles on it.
Honda 300 quad for the front end
Honda civic hubs and axles for the rear end
Honda d16a1 Trans for the gear box with reverse
2 bucket seats
all the brakes (front and rear)
2 sets of yamaha quad rims and tires
A new 520 double oring chain rated at 200 horse
new 51 tooth 520 sprocket for a dirt bike
All the lights, gauges, and switches
5 gallon fuel cell
The TOOLS
(tools i currently own)
3. A decent MIG welder
Grinder and saws all
Drill press
Air compressor with allot of air tools
All the sockets a fella could ever need
Torch set up
Notcher
Bender
Dewalt band saw
Angle finders
Squares
Levels
Chop saw
Bench grinder
4. I want to put the Honda trans on the car and power it via a chain. I think this would be a good alternative to spending thousands on a gear box or a decent spool. Its tough and will take the abuse. I'm thinking of mounting the sprocket and brake rotor on the input shat with a splined hub. Putting a sealed bearing an the end of the shaft in place of the pilot bearing. Yet making the bearing housing and tranny mounts adjustable so you could tighten the chain. Or, make a dependable chain tensioner system. Either way i want the pilot bearing housing to be removable so if i need to work on the tranny it will be a snap to get it out.
I'm open to all input. Just please understand that this is the stuff i have to work with. I want to do this build for 2 to 3 grand. And thats everthing included. I think i have enough stuff to accomplish my end goal of ravishing the countryside on my mean a$$ looking buggy. Thanks in advance for anybodies input on this.
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Day 1
OK keeping in mind that the plans you use are just a guideline for you to follow ive decided to change a few things about my buggy so it didnt look so ...well...dune buggy'ish. I just think that flying around the woods in a buggy built for dunes could have potenttial hazards as the dune buggy is not designed to be slammed into trees and other woodland objects.
So i bought tubing and decided..(Actually like more of a forced decision)..to go with 1.375x119. So far its been pretty easy to work with. I picked up 96 feet of it for about 105.00 bux. Not to bad i guess. Got home with it and was so ready to get started that i jumped right in. Right off the bat scrapping one 10' stick. Which i later cut the bends out of and used it for bracing pieces. So not all was lost. Here are pics of day number one after i bent the tubing and started putting it back together.
P.S. Whatever you do DO NOT skimp on a good bender. This is a must. I effed up with this and figured out the hard way that packing the tubing in 10' sticks is way to much work and doesnt really produce rock solid results.
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Day 2
OK been sick for 2 days and was feeling better today so i got back out and decided to give it a go. Here is where i went south on the plans and pretty much threw them away. Didn't want my buggy to end up looking like the one in the picture anyways. Almost done with the frame. I think I'm to a point to start installing some of the components i will need. This way i dint put a bracing in one spot when i need it moved to be used for something else also, like the steering or pedal boxes. Ill continue to brace as i go, just making sure its where i can sue it for other stuff. Anyways here is where I'm at now. The seats aren't mounted just set inside for a reference point as to how i wanted to shape the cage. I think it looks kinda mean if you ask me. Also after looking at it Ive decided i wont need nerf bars. t think my wheels will come right to the edge of the frame in the rear. If not it will be real close. If i do need them they will be really short.
Keep in mind that it looks fat right now because the seats are setting lower than they actually will be when done. I wanted the cage shaped this way so in the event of a roll over everthing will be protected as i plan on acting like a complete idiot on this thing. ;D
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Takin' shape,, looks good , did you use Bend Tech to design your frame or a set of plans..?
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I used the SS2 plans from pro sand rails to begin with. Then just winged it from there.
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cool, I'm interested to see how yer driveline falls into place.
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It should be interesting. Ill keep it all detailed so others can know how it was done. I am gonna start on the front suspension this weekend and get the tranny and axles ready to mount. Build the a-arms for the rear and get the hubs ready. Got a question? On a GSXR 600 there is a sensor in the radiator, but on my aftermarket rad there isnt a spot for it. Can i omit it? Or does it control the fan? Thanx.
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It controls the fan. On my 750 it didn't go to the ecu. There is another on the motor for that. You can either use a seperate bulb type sensor or have a shop put a bung in if you want to use a solid state sensor.
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Looks like your really going to town
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Would something like this work for the rear suspension only with hiems instead of bushings? Im not going to buy them but ill build something similar if they would work.
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Should work fine.Maybe.
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I dont like it when your sentence ends with MAYBE. Please explain the maybe?
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Arm lengths will determine camber curve same as with front.
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Arm lengths will determine camber curve same as with front.
Oh i have to disagree here, camber curve can be altered with the mounting location as well, not just by arm length... :police:
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You don't disagree you just added to it.I agree with your addition.He was asking about THOSE arms and I was commenting on ARMS. dd:
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Ok im lost now. I was asking if that basic idea would work. Here is the plan. Im going to put it at the ride highth i want. Then build the arms so that the hubs are straight up and down when they are at about 10 degrees droop. Do i make the top one shorter or longer? Im actually thinking of just saying screw a- arms and building trailing arms. Depends on which is harder to build.
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For that specific chassis design, IMO trailing arms would be far easier to build.... ;D 4 heim joints and the ass end is done...
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Okie Dokie...Here is a better pic of that tranny.
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Okie Dokie...Here is a better pic of that tranny.
the other end, lol....
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Let me find one real fast.
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Let me find one real fast.
Of the avatar...What are you thinking.... dd:
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There you go again. Gonna have to chain you down to something. Here are some more pics.
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see how he did that shifter, a vw shifter comes straight out of the box to the trans, now you have to go in behind the trans, you dont need no mid engine cable shifter, the shaft will have enuff play to do it just like that last picture...
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Im am a bit curious here, for what you are doing, why not just use the honda engine and tranny?
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Cuz ive only got one honda motor running right now or i would. That and this thing would have to be really wide to make it work as the motor and tranny would both sit sideways. It would be real easy if i made it really wide. Ive thought about it and i think youd have to run different suspension for sure. On the car they use a half shaft that works but not for much travel.
So i need just a regular VW shifter?
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you would have to modify the shifter but yes a standard vw shifter box, how long is the driver and passengers axles? You could still mod the axles and use the 930 etc, just like you were going to do with a bike motor, no reason that you can have one axle longer than the other, as long as the short side gives enuff travel, I am 99% confident a stock honda motor would outperform the 600 engine torque wise, then you dont have no chain or anything...
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I think i got the shifter issue figured out. On that note...id use a honda engine if i had one laying around. Ill try this set up first and if it dont work it wont be nothing to tear the back end down and drop a honda motor in. I just dont think its wide enough. I would be stuffing alot into that lil frame. I will ponder the idea. see if i can think of something. But for right now im gonna use the 600. Then maybe this winter upgrade to a 1.6L.
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I would be stuffing alot into that lil frame.
Some motivation for you - Carroll Shelby tried that concept and it seems to have worked OK for him.
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Will this work? My a-arms are the same length on both sides and the frame angles to the front. Making it so that when mounted the a-arms pitch forwards. I know i will lose some of the streering radius and that fine becouse it has alot of radius now. Just wanting to know if suspension wise this would work? Seems it would as they are like this on the cuda's...i think?
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to weak that way, make the front of the arm longer, just make one jig and flip it over for the other side of the car, add the shock mounts later.. ;D
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NO NO NO
iF ANYTHING YOU WANT THEM TO COME TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE BUGGY THAT'S WHAT WE ARE TALKING ABOUT WHEN WE SAY RAKE... Sorry effen caps lock...There are a couple of ways to to do this, one is to set up the control arm mount tubes at a light rear downward angle andd the other is to twist the mounts on the tubes...I have my tabs CNC'ed so I twist the tabs on the tubes...If you need some pix I can find them in the morning for you...But daylight is burning...
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Yeah, Pics would be great. Im confused now. I think i will just mount them like they were on the quad. Look at these and tell me what you think> The first one is where i square up the frame with the red pieces so the arms mount in the original position. The second is the other hurdle i wonder about.
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Just make the arms line up with the frame rails, the top as the frame rail goes down to the front, you just need to add an upright for the upper a arm rear tab, so that is square with the lower arm...
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Maybe i am missing something here, you are using quad a arms? and they are straight at the bushings right?
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Yep. The arms are equal lengths on both sides. Will it hurt for the top arm to be tilted forwards a little. Cuz it i fallow the frame thats what will happen.
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yes it will hurt it alot... it has to be square with the lower..
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Yeah, you don't want it tilted forward. You can have it tilted back, but not forward. If it is forward, it will cause the front to dive hard when braking.
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10-4. And they either need to be staight across from each other or raking back some...but not raking forwards...right?
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yes. You probably don't want any anti dive either, so I'd make the two mounting axises parallel to each other
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Disregard all that's been said till now and start with a clean sheet of paper so to speak.LOL!
You have the quad the arms came off of right?
1. Level the old frame as it would have set at ride height.
2. Plot the X Y and Z positions from a central axis of the 8 mounting points on the quad frame.
3. Replicate that on your frame while allowing for the difference in width of the quad frame compared to your frame.
4. Questions? :)
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Disregard all that's been said till now and start with a clean sheet of paper so to speak.LOL!
You have the quad the arms came off of right?
1. Level the old frame as it would have set at ride height.
2. Plot the X Y and Z positions from a central axis of the 8 mounting points on the quad frame.
3. Replicate that on your frame while allowing for the difference in width of the quad frame compared to your frame.
4. Questions? :)
60k???? 8:
sorry had to...
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?????????
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Bolt,
What yamaha arms are you planning to use? I hope not Banshee or Warrior ''J arms''. They work fine on the quads but they have some seriously funky geometry to use on a buggy... I got a boatload of them for real cheap a few years ago and ended up reselling them on ebay cuz they just never seemed to work the way buggies need them to, you might want to look into honda 250R spindles, and build your own arms...Heres some pix of the yamaha spindles
1st pic right side up
2nd upside down
3rd swapped side to side wit sterring arms lopped off and rewelded
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Heres what I ended uo doing...
I used 250R spindles modded to be front steer,and have some ackerman You can see in the pix that there is rake on the arms and how I do the control arm mounting bars...and get the rake I want...I hope this is what you were asking for..
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Here's another approach to your A-arm dilemma.
This is the front end on the last buggy I built for the woods...These pix are early in the build so bear with me...
1st shows how to get rake by twisting the mounts on the tube and keeping the rack in line with the steering arm on the spindle...Altho I built these spindles the theory is pertinent to your build
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Thank's for all the help fellas. I got to put this thing on hold for a day or two and see if i can find tabs somewhere. I also got to get yet another welding machine. This time i aint efin around with it...im gonna go out and get a real good one. Tired of these things working for a day then they start acting all stupid and jumping around on the heat. I tried to make some tabs but they look like ass so i ripped it all back off. And Spec im using the arms off a 2001 warrior. Dont know what J arms are but i dont think i have them cuz mine look like everyone else's here. I think im just gonna suck it up and go buy the stuff to build my own damn arms. And to build my own trailing arms to. I just got to find somewhere to get tabs from. I need to buy them by the # cuz i seem to go through alot of them. I need a plasma cutter if im gonna make my own tabs. But I still think they would look like ass. Finally got some rims that will fit the honda hubs and got the tranny dropped.
I also think i figured this shifter delima out. Ill have to test it out when i get that far. But i think i got it. Also Bug...I need to see if you can make me one of those blocks like you have on your clutch cable so you can run a morse able for the clutch. Let me know what you want for one and ill get it. Pedals came in today. To tell you the truth if i was to do another buggy i would do it different. Like get stuff laser cut with the files i got with the plans so its like putting together a puzzle. i guess thats about it for today. I did alot of stuff today...only to acomplish nothing. :] But hey...i know how not to do it now.
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Question for the suspension guru's. The arms i have will work. Only the front side...(nose of the buggy) are exactly 3" to short. So this is my question. If i made one arm on the top and bottom 3" longer will that change anything? Just extend them to meet the frame cuz i dont like the idea of having tabs hnging way off the buggy. Below are some examples of what im talking about.
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i made all my own tabs. just buy some length of 1/4 or 3/16 x 1 inch flat stock. then the easiest way i have found is to measure all your tabs out on one peice, including blade thickness of your bandsaw. then mark your holes. drill the holes first for each tab. then go back and cut all the tabs where you measured them. make sense? if not ill draw you a picture.
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I think I may have messed you up boltz, it is fine for the A-arms to angle towards the front on the flat plane as lond as the suspension doesn't angle towards the front during compression...If you go back and take a look at the last pix I posted, you will see that when the suspension is cycled the spindle moves rearward...What size tabs you need? I have some extra CNC'ed ones, they are slick as hell...Plus I can cut them to whay ever thickness I like...and put the holes where I like as well
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Thank's for all the help fellas. I got to put this thing on hold for a day or two and see if i can find tabs somewhere. I also got to get yet another welding machine. This time i aint efin around with it...im gonna go out and get a real good one. Tired of these things working for a day then they start acting all stupid and jumping around on the heat. I tried to make some tabs but they look like ass so i ripped it all back off. And Spec im using the arms off a 2001 warrior. Dont know what J arms are but i dont think i have them cuz mine look like everyone else's here. I think im just gonna suck it up and go buy the stuff to build my own damn arms. And to build my own trailing arms to. I just got to find somewhere to get tabs from. I need to buy them by the # cuz i seem to go through alot of them. I need a plasma cutter if im gonna make my own tabs. But I still think they would look like ass. Finally got some rims that will fit the honda hubs and got the tranny dropped.
I also think i figured this shifter delima out. Ill have to test it out when i get that far. But i think i got it. Also Bug...I need to see if you can make me one of those blocks like you have on your clutch cable so you can run a morse able for the clutch. Let me know what you want for one and ill get it. Pedals came in today. To tell you the truth if i was to do another buggy i would do it different. Like get stuff laser cut with the files i got with the plans so its like putting together a puzzle. i guess thats about it for today. I did alot of stuff today...only to acomplish nothing. :] But hey...i know how not to do it now.
LOL!! That's a great post! I'm not laughing at you ,I'm laughing WITH you.BTDT,lesson learned!
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i made all my own tabs. just buy some length of 1/4 or 3/16 x 1 inch flat stock. then the easiest way i have found is to measure all your tabs out on one peice, including blade thickness of your bandsaw. then mark your holes. drill the holes first for each tab. then go back and cut all the tabs where you measured them. make sense? if not ill draw you a picture.
I'
I've done boatloads like that. They come out pretty decent.If you have a disc sander you can make very nice radiused corners.I stack the cut to length tabs in a drill press vice and use the holesaw to cut the radiused ends.Pretty quick and cheap.
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Ha Ha funnny funny...Yokes on me...J/K. I need the tabs whatever size they are in the pictuer will work fine. 1/4 " I guess. Let me know what you want for them. Also i need some that are longer. Like 3" would be perfect. let me know.
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Boltz,
They cost me a bout $1.75 apeice...How many you need and what size holes or do you want to drill your own...It might be easier for you to drill your own if you have a drill press..
The reason being, your quad shocks are metric bolts, you'll prolly want 3/8 holes for some tabs and 7/16'' or 1/2'' for others, And you'll know the placement of the holes better than me guessing your clearance here
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Bolt, rob a team moto has some pre fabbed trailing arms as well, I was browsing his site the other night and noticed them, and since have seen some feedback on them, may be a good alternative to making some...
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OK been real busy of late and im waiting to get some tabs in that i had cut. Checked out the arms bug and they will work fine. BUT...has anyone ever looked at the suspension on an RC10? Its a nitro methane powered Rc car and the suspension works pretty well on it. Take a look and let me know what you think. I will try to post some picks of it on the next few days. Hopefully in the next week ill have a roller. ;D
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Will suspension set up like this work? This is how mine will be set up if i dont change anything and just mount it to my frame. Oh and sorry dentech but i hijacked your pic.
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Should work fine, the geometry may suffer a little here or there, but i guess it will work with the atv arms like that...
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So this will work even though they are pitched forwards?...sweet cuz that what im gonna do. How does the geometry suffer? they will be mounted in the same spots as the quad.
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I know you are hip deep in suspension but I will say a tranny tidbit. If you support just the outer part of the input with a bearing the tranny input will likely fail. You need a bearing on each side of the sprocket. The shaft cannot have any side loads being imparted into the tranny itself. Only rotational loads if you want it to last.
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Will suspension set up like this work? This is how mine will be set up if i dont change anything and just mount it to my frame. Oh and sorry dentech but i hijacked your pic.
Will suspension set up like this work? This is how mine will be set up if i dont change anything and just mount it to my frame. Oh and sorry dentech but i hijacked your pic.
Weren't the mounts parallel on the quad? If so yes but I don't think that's how the quad was.
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Yep they were parallel on the quad. So i should be good to go there. Still having trouble with these dang tabs. They all look like crap and my notcher wont notch then and grinding them will take forever. Gonna have to figure out something else. May me getting some from ole Spec after all.
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For tabs I was actually looking at finding square tube (rectangle actually) of the right width to clear the A-arms pivots and laying it across the chassis. Mark where the frame tubes are and notch it to fit right over the frames main tubes. Then weld it to the tubs nearly all the way around the notch. Then just drill holes for the arms to mount to. The tube going across will help support the frame to. (Yah it adds a lil weight) It could be slotted or drilled for looks and lightening.
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oLE spec was just looking for a bucket of those tabs the other day and dropped the tab stock bar on his foot :'(
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When I used to make tabs from scratch before I had a plasma cutter I used to use 1 1/2'' X 3/16'' or 1/4'' flat stock measure out the hole spacing...Chuck it up in the drill press cut my 1 1/4'' holes or what ever size the tubing I was working with...Change to the drill size for my mounting holes, drill them ... Then cut 5 or 6 of the strips in the band saw. I would then set the saw at 45* and lop off the corners on the mount end, put them in a vice and soft stone to a nice rounded finish...
;D ::) :o ;D 8) ::) :-* :) ;) :D
God am I glad I came up with the bars of tabstock 5:
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yeah making them from scratch sucks. Big time!
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When I first bought my buggy I was making my own tabs also. Time consuming!!!! Finally found a place 5 miles from me that stocks about 50 different styles of them. What do you think about those heavy ass green quad tires SPEC? My brother put the same ones on his kfx 400 and hates em'.
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When I first bought my buggy I was making my own tabs also. Time consuming!!!! Finally found a place 5 miles from me that stocks about 50 different styles of them. What do you think about those heavy ass green quad tires SPEC? My brother put the same ones on his kfx 400 and hates em'.
I dunno...They have never seen the light of day...i was gonna slap em' on Specinator's buggy but she didn't like the idea :'( Wich equates to you put those horrid effen things on my buggy I'll kick yer ass
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I dunno...They have never seen the light of day...i was gonna slap em' on Specinator's buggy but she didn't like the idea :'( Wich equates to you put those horrid effen things on my buggy I'll kick yer ass
:m Their heavy as hell, super stiff, and ride like shit. They do look cool though.
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We're off topic... sorry..
I had some red ones on my 460 a while back they seemed to hook up well,
But that was oval dirt track racing...They have a fairly short lifespan...and do look cool especially when you do do-nuts in the parking lot and leave red burnouts ::)
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LOL!!! Red donuts!
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My brother was thinking about sending his green ones to skat trac and having them put just the paddle blades on them. Then they would be cool. ;D
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Hey Boltz did mean to get so far off topic on your thread. I'm sorry but SPEC is the only other person I know that has those crappy things. LOL. Sorry SPEC.
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Its all good Dent. I thought they were kinda crazy looking but didnt want to ask cuz i thought maybe he got crazy with some paint while painting his rims. Didnt know the rubber was that color.
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Ya right down to the cords ;D
Actually I liked the red ones on the flat track... They are heavier than alot of tires cuz they are 4 or 6 ply tires, So they are stiff too...Harder than hell to mount, they have a really heavy bead guard...I'll get some better pix and start the wackey green tire thread ;D
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sweet!!!
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Hey boltz, You still needing some tabs? I've got a CNC plasma that could cut out whatever you need. Let me know
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Yeah ive tried yet again to make them and they look like ass. I dont want to put them on my buggy and tell people i made them. Plus shipping from your place to mine wouldnt be bad at all. I need some motor mounts cut to. I can send you a drawing of them with all the measurments on it. Just let me know what youd charge. Well i guess you need a drawing first. Ill see what i can come up with. Thanx
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Yea no problem. You have AutoCad? or take a picture of some you like off the internet or draw out on paintshop or something with the measurements you need.
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That's a cool offer.You interested in doing this as a for fee service to members here in general?
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I'll try to help out anybody I can. Some things take longer and are more intricate when it comes to programing in the computer, but yea if someone needs help I'll see what I can do. The tabs I already have saved in my cut list on the plasma machine. It doesnt take long at all to change the dimensions to what you need on those. But the Texas guys come first, HA, HA!!!
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Texas guys always come first and quick - that's why women prefer men from the other 49 states.
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lmao....that was good yummi
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Oh that was harsh yummi. But thats OK cause we got em first!
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and fast enough to get A LOT of them!
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Thanks for the offer Phelps. I will get you a drawing of them as soon as i can. Ive been real busy trying to get this trucking company off the ground. Should have them drawn out in the next day or two and you can let me know what they will run and ill send it your way. Thanx again.
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Thanks for the offer Phelps. I will get you a drawing of them as soon as i can. Ive been real busy trying to get this trucking company off the ground. Should have them drawn out in the next day or two and you can let me know what they will run and ill send it your way. Thanx again.
Hey Boltz my brother owns a small trucking company. We should talk and I'll hook You up with him. He leases his trucks on with CRST right now running flatbed. Send me a PM and I'll get you his info if you are both interested. (that sounded gay) over. ;D
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ok...got some work done..i got seriously ass raped by some people who did some laser cutting for me...you guys wont efin believe this shit...they tell me 1.10 per tab...so i tell them to whip me up 20 of them for my fronts. Even give them the steel to do it. Only to show up two days later to pick them up and find out they didnt use the steel i provided. No biggy i can use it on the motor mounts. But they made the tabs 1/4 inch thick. And on top of that they charged me 3.95 each for them. 70 F**king dollars for 20 tabs. but i paid and walked out the door cussing. Im using them bad boys. I will just have really beefy suspension. Heres a couple of pics of the first side tacked up. Im gonna do the other side tonight. The snake i found curled up in the drive way watching me so i went out and beat him to death with a hammer. Needed some stress relief anyways and i figure the only good snake is a dead one. He musta been sick cuz its a bit to cool for him to be out. The AR15 is a new addition to my pre ban weapons buy up. And i just bought an Israeli Uzi tonight...along with a Ruger Blackhawk 357 and a Taurus .22
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What is that... a copperhead? Yea its pretty cold for snakes to be out. What company did you use for your tabs? They probably just wanted to get more money out of you and went to a thicker metal. Oh well you wont have to worry about bending those!!
Bad ass M-4, is it 5.56 caliber?
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shoulda whacked the snake with the UZI :o
Ya you got bent over on the tabs...
Better tell us the company...so we don't get hosed too ::)
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You shoulda stuck those tabs where the sun doesn't shine.
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Or used one of the "new toys" to persuade a discount. 4:
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The tabs are deffinatly thicker than what i wanted...so from now on ill deal with Phelps only on those since he is kinda local. I know i got screwed on them...but..im trying to keep my cool about it and i can use them ...they will just be beefy. The gun in the pic is my AR15 with a 400yd scope on it. I dont mess with it much any more. As i have a new toy..the UZI. That thing rocks. Its a carbine and can fling a standard 9 mill chunck of hot lead 200 yards accurately. I am very impressed with it. Ill post pics of it sometime. Yeah i think that copperhead was kinda sick. I most deffinatley wasnt expecting to see him in the driveway this time of year. Although i did kill alot of snakes on my land this year. 5 rattlers and 3 copperheads. I have been super swamped trying to get everything set up for this company and juggle my job all at the same time. So i quit my job yesterday cuz the buggy needed some attention. I know what you are thinking that it is kinda drastic to quit a job over the buggy not getting done but i was gonna leave work today anyways cuz im hauling a load saturday. Ill only be running local with alot better hours and that will give me more family time and buggy time. :) Ill be on here more often as soon as i can get this thing strolling good on its own. Well...thats about all the new news i have for m\now..see ya in a day or two.
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Oh and the company i used was local so no chance of anyone else ever using them but they are called "Mexia Industrial".
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Mexica Screwica?
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OK..made some progress and didnt see then need in starting another build log when i already got one...so ill continue in this one. Here are some pics of it so far. I got the motor in tonight and am trying to figure out a way to mount up the pillow block bearings. If anyone has any ideas please share them with me. Here in a minute im gonna go out and mount the rad and finish mounting the tank. Oh...and i think i have plenty of chain on that sucker. Have to move the seats forwards 5 inch's to get the motor in to use alot of chain. I got 75 links on that sucka. That should deffinatly work huh? Tomarrow im mounting up pedal box's and gonna go get the metal for the floor and some more tubing that i need.
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awesome!!! from the pics, it looks like your axles wont be long enough?? also, is that tilt steering?
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To mount the Pill-o-blocks you could get square or flat tube and notch the ends with a hole saw on a drill press to fit around round tubes you run for the cross braces.
Just run round tubes across and for bracing around the bearings. Then make the square tube fit inbetween the round with holesaw notched ends.
I see people all the time mount Pillowblocks so that they are flat (to the ground) and the load is pulling on them sideways. I have not seen any break the bearings outside case like this (but I am sure its happened) But myself I would try to mount them so that the the bottom of the bearing mount is facing directly towards the load (motor). This way the load is being compressed into metal with no side pull. The bearing itself would have to fail as the housing in this mounting style literally could not.
Plus done this way you could simply shim it to take up chain slack IF the tranny was also on moveable mounts. And easy shimming for alignment to the tranny that would not loosen easily.
Just how I think it should be done. Flat works for a lot of people though.
It does look good.
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Very valid points Nuts, I can say i agree myself with that, most pillow blocks are cheap POS to start, no sense in pulling the load on the casting it self...
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The axles are gonna have to be lengthened to fit. And no tilt steering. I am gonna have to get a quick connect for the steering wheel to make it easier to get in and out. I lost a little cabin room by moving the motor up so id run a longer chain.
Also i am gonna do like you said Nutz and mount them so the bearing points to the back. It will also make for less mounting bracing i have to use and will keep it away from the axle. I want to run a longer chain to help with the heating issue. I got a ways to go before she will move on her own but i can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Now all i got to do is redo the front end and hook up the steering and then im down to mounting the little stuff. Like the shifter...lights...rad...and guages. im going to get the floor metal today so i can get that put in and then ill be able to mount up the pedal box's. Thanx for the input...
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Just an update. Got the back loops done tonight and the rad mounts tacked in place. here is some pics...