DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Member Project Logs => Topic started by: 01SANDRAIL on July 13, 2009, 01:59:51 PM
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Got the parts back from the laser the other day and cant wait to weld these babies up. I will post up some pics when I get started.
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Should be quite stout.Post those pics up! ;D
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They weigh in at just under 27lbs. each. I am thinking they should be much easier to build than my old tubular rear arms.
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Yeah tubular is a bitch at times.thinking my next ones will be box design also.
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After having a good look at Dezert Racers site im intrigued about boxed arms (F and R) a mate of mine has been producing this beasty and this is the second chassis and his first foray into boxed arms.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi293.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fmm54%2Fartieonedge%2Frii_piggie_260.jpg&hash=4d731787a9fbefd40110315c8757cf3b3592bf18)
Sorry about the green tint. The whole engine cradle is removable so the engine trans final drive module just drops down.
His first chassis used an Edge set up (like Doug builds and he wasnt at all happy with it after a couple of failures).
This is the guy I have to beat in our competition... hes looking harder and harder each day. At least his reflexes are as bad as mine (similar vintage).
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My GOD! Those are massive!
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Won't be hurting them anytime soon :o
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Im hoping they'll act as ballast and slow him down... 8)
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I don't want to sound like an ass or anything but aren't those attached to 25mmx50mm tube? Seem a bit mighty for such a small anchor point. Wanna try to get him on here?
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Who built the chassis? Yoshi? :t :m dd: :m
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I believe he may have been unhappy with the original Edge design as he did not use the 3rd link like I do. I still swear by it in double A-arm rearends and dont see how others try to live without it especially in racing situations. Im not completly sold on trailing arms either. I do like the 5 and 6 links though.
The boxing of the suspention components is a great idea and look great. I agree there easier to build especially if you have access to laser / water jet, and press brake. Great work!
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What 3rd link would that be? ;D ;D
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The first pic of the green machine is a desert karts with the rear arms done like the plans. They twist if you run em hard.
The red one has rectangular tubes. The guy never bent one he claimed.
Would the red ones arms be considered boxed? lol.
I also think they might benefit from the right thickness of plate across them and welded to the rectangle tubes. Then they might really be considerd boxed? With a brace across the front of course. Maybe semi-boxed? :P
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I believe he may have been unhappy with the original Edge design as he did not use the 3rd link like I do. I still swear by it in double A-arm rearends and dont see how others try to live without it especially in racing situations. Im not completly sold on trailing arms either. I do like the 5 and 6 links though.
The boxing of the suspention components is a great idea and look great. I agree there easier to build especially if you have access to laser / water jet, and press brake. Great work!
His problems were nothing to do with arm location. Component failure when used HARD... Ive had a look at teh results... (Busa powered and driven hard whenever it was turned on!)
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Who built the chassis? Yoshi? :t :m dd: :m
Yoshi inspired, he freely admints that and he did speak to yoshi and asked if he could reproduce design elements of the Sinister... good pick up Fabr.... this is a small car and teh arms look bigger than they are because of it... he also drives well.... (damn)
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I've been thinking about switching to the boxed arms for a while now, but was under the impression it would take a lot longer to weld them up than to just building them out of tube. I've seen them done different ways, with some that have quite a bit of internal cross plates, and some that have none at all, I wasn't sure the best way to go about constructing them, but I may go ahead and gets some drawings over to the plasma cutter so I can at least get a set built and see what I think.......
What's the most common thickness to go with?
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Some well place bends cut down on welding time significantly.
bottom plate .156-.187
side and top plates .090-.125
internal ribs .060-.090
MC powered buggy's are going to be on the lighter side.
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The ones that I am building right now are made almost entirely out of 11ga. mild steel plate.
There are some other braces or (Ribs) inside as well. I am hoping to get them put together real soon. I am in the process of moving into the new bigger shop so as soon as that happens I am going to get some hood time and try them out. I know how long it takes to make a good set of tubular arms and I think these will be much faster. I will let you know once I have completed both sets that I am making.
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If I were you I would make those top and bottom plates extend past the side plates and make them key together. This
will give you a stronger inside corner weld as opposed to the more prone to cracking outside corner weld. BDKW1
suggested that to me after mine were already done and wished I could have gone back and used his advice. Mine
have not cracked and I don't think they will but the idea made sense. Then doing like that would make keying the parts
together easy and make assembly a cakewalk. Boxed arms go together MUCH faster than tube arms.
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I believe I posted this up before but I will do so again as it may be a great refrence for someone to use if they wish. This is a set that I drew up in CAD to have cut for a race truck. These are the front lower control arms for a double A-arm 4X4 suspention...
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi39.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe162%2FWH1TETIGER%2FWEB%2520POSTS%2FArm1.jpg&hash=c80a2b6770552ef1331a37a7c266dd21f209aa88)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi39.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe162%2FWH1TETIGER%2FWEB%2520POSTS%2FArm4.jpg&hash=b708377d3e3ad1ff381be7c44cb42fdd2b24cc7a)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi39.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe162%2FWH1TETIGER%2FWEB%2520POSTS%2FArm3.jpg&hash=381e48aed21ff4b4a2772050252545407b7192d6)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi39.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe162%2FWH1TETIGER%2FWEB%2520POSTS%2FArm2.jpg&hash=070339c1e0c49472ae2e8cee94a48c433eade7ae)
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Anyone want to show some pics of the bung attachment/anchor method they use in the sheetmetal.Seems to me like this is rarely addressed, and I'm curious as to how some of you have done it. .
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the above arms are used with mono balls.
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Anyone want to show some pics of the bung attachment/anchor method they use in the sheetmetal.Seems to me like this is rarely addressed, and I'm curious as to how some of you have done it. .
On A-arms, I do the side plate first and weld the insides with the mig and tig the outside edges.
On a trailing arm in the rear, I have 4 pieces the hit it. The inner to get tiged to the end and then the outer pieces hit about half way down the bung and get tiged on.