0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
I'd rather have a solid connection like a 4wd front snout. It's piloted in the hub plate and once set it'll take a shitload of abuse without failure.6 3/8ths bolts and it might as well be welded in place.
And nearly no extra weight.Deduct the heim weight and I think it's a winning combination.
no extra, weight, chatter, lubrication or expense.
I don't have a thing but what's in my head. I've had chevy 70-80's 1/2 and 3/4 ton 4WD fronts apart a million times. The snouts(spindles) for the wheel bearings to ride on are bolted to the front end housing.Like 2" hollow snouts that trophy trucks use.
I should have said the snouts bolt to the knuckle.
gotta and that is what I was reffering to. I do like the idea on the bottom and I think two pivot points on the top would be fine but still have to have the gusseted tabs on the top.what do you think of a lower h-arm with a third member welded to it half way up the arm or so rather than at the wheel to clear the frame?yes I too like paint, it is quicker than opening my solid works program.something like this looks good to me, what do you think?
Good ideas! I like the frame end of the arms being as wide as possible. It will reduce the hit on the mounts. 3 mounts really won't help. It will only provide potential bind. The two end mounts will still take all the stress.On the outer end why use 4 mount points? Another point for potential bind. I would select the top or bottom arm to be the dominant arm, then beef it up, and use two mounting points on it and 1 on the other arm.Bushings are great on the frame side mounts. If you want to use them at the outer mount, you could have a shaft that runs front to rear, and holds both bushings in the carrier. bolt the shaft to the end of the A-arm at each end. This would be your shim point for toe change. If you used a single heim on top, you could use it for camber adjustment. Just a thought.