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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by fabr on August 12, 2018, 09:19:21 AM »
I would have it annealed since I saw posted some of it is from 4140 also. If it were all from 4130 and the welds were allowed to air cool slowly in still air  I would just run them but if it does have some 4140 I would recommend annealing the whole thing. 4140 will through harden whereas 4130 will not if welded with argon shielding as should be.

As far as the single bottom link as opposed to double, I would not have done that. Maybe it will be OK but we know for sure double bottom links are best. Your work looks good though. Carry on.

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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by dsrace on August 12, 2018, 09:02:52 AM »
here's why forward links need to be steel not aluminum lol    ;D ;D ;) ;) back in 2008 first and only time i thought i would try them on a heavy rail. works great on light weight bike powered but no so good on heavy rails  ;D















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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by dsrace on August 12, 2018, 08:49:43 AM »
looks good!  i personally would lay some 1" to 2" stitch welds on the inside from tube to plate but that's just me.  the bottom of the tires ( front and rear) always see more load than the uppers. your 2 forward link need to be strong as these keep the carrier from rotating not only from driving force but from the load of the shock on the carrier. shock placement over the center of the axle stub is always best but not always obtainable.  what you have built may be strong enough, but, i would probably use 3/4" chromolly heims on that lower link to be safe. i used 5/8" chromolly heims on my 6 link and 5 link builds ( heavy v6 rail especially) but at one point in time i used the standard standard steel on steel heims and they didn't last long. so i strongly suggest lined chromolly heims. do not  and i repeat do not, use aluminum rods on the forward links!!!!!! i have personal experience why we don't!  ;D ;D so save yourself the trouble and take my advice on this one!  the tube and plate idea does look better than a flat square plate btw, but the square plate is, imo , stronger and simpler. now i am not saying that to discourage your idea and build, just saying is all and if you stitch weld the inside i bet yours holds up just fine. if that's all chromolly then my concern would be brittle fractures around the welds unless you anneal it as a whole then heat treat it to an appropriate rockwell rating. honestly i am not even sure you would need to harden it and that would be a question best answered by fabr or fastcorvairs.
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by BrianN on August 11, 2018, 07:20:36 PM »
Not a perfect triangle. If I would have known the L shape with two links on bottom was stronger, I would have done that. Would have been easier, but I assumed a triangle would be better. With that said, the single link in front of the axle is closer to the bottom. I considered the same idea with the box that you mentioned, but I am going for a different look and idea. Hey, it may fail. Pics are what I did today. Forward links, shock mount, plates, and more gussets yet to come.



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A bit labor intensive but in a pinch it something to remember.
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Something to talk about / Re: 2019 Range Rovers Will Be Easier to Drive in Water
« Last post by Yummi on August 11, 2018, 12:27:51 PM »
They have always been easy to drive into water. 

The bitch of the deal comes in getting the heavy P.O.S.  OUT of the water.  Bring a rope...... A few buddies, and a check book.

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Something to talk about / Watch How You Can Tow Your Car Out of a Jam With Only Two Poles and a Rope
« Last post by FeedBot on August 11, 2018, 11:33:42 AM »
Watch How You Can Tow Your Car Out of a Jam With Only Two Poles and a Rope

I’m an avid off-roader, and yet somehow I didn’t know about this brilliant method of winching out a stuck vehicle with nothing more than rope and some logs. Here’s how it works.

Read more...


Source: Watch How You Can Tow Your Car Out of a Jam With Only Two Poles and a Rope

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This is from the fine folks at https://jalopnik.com/. RSS Feed via Jalopnik, some good, some bad, but always something to talk about.....

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18
Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by dsrace on August 10, 2018, 07:43:26 AM »
you wouldn't have to box them in completely like the 3x3's in the pic and would need one longer than the other to get your double shear but i believe you know what i'm talking about.
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Something to talk about / Re: 2019 Range Rovers Will Be Easier to Drive in Water
« Last post by dsrace on August 10, 2018, 07:16:31 AM »
what part of the world are they targeting by advertising driving through water?? lol
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Chassis and Suspension / Re: 5 link rear sandcar suspension
« Last post by dsrace on August 10, 2018, 07:07:56 AM »
brianN so i know you have studied a number of pics of diff 5 link set ups. 6 link is better imo but does get tricky to find the room lol   i know you said your building them in a triangle shape so not an L shape mount. so that must mean two on the back and one centered in the front?  if this is the case i do need to caution you on that as imo i believe the greatest load is at the bottom of the wheel so truly needs to be two links on the bottom supporting that load.  this is why most mount the upper centered over the wheel. i don't think you absolutely need to do that , which is why i asked if it would be an L shaped mount. 

on the carriers, just food for thought, here is a link https://www.appletreeauto.com/D.O.M-TRAILING-ARMS-STK-X-STK-TASTKxSTK/   for reference only. the way they take two pieces of 3/16" plate and box them in on the t1 hub. what if you did the same but put the plates in a break and bent the ends 90* then staggered to achieve your double shear? you could open that box all the way back to the round bolt flange for extra strength and weld nuts on the inners in those locations covered.
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