Slow Build by Engineer

[Engineer]

Hey Eng looks good Mate how much do ya reckon it'll weigh when it's finished?

Thanks Reidy!

I don't even want to guess at this point.  When I started I imagined less than 1500.  It is a full size car.  It will just barely go in an enclosed trailer without having to change tires.

While the parts look bulky, some really aren't that heavy.  They are full of air after all.  The upper A-arm with no rod ends is 8.5 pounds.  The lower isn't quite finished but it looks to be around 30 pounds.  Anyone want to throw me a bone and tell me what their tubing arms weigh?

[fabr]

Approx 6 feet of 1.25x.095 wall 4130 + approx 5 pounds .125 plate gives me approx 14 pounds for my lowers and approx 9 pounds upper. My arms are longer yet than yours are. Even adding some plating in mine will still be lighter. Considerably ,it appears.

[Engineer]

Don't forget the bungs.  They are heavy but square bungs are heavier than round.


So based on these predictions it will weigh 2500 finished? 

[fabr]

1 bung each ,so add another pound.

[Engineer]

It's going to be a BBW BBB.  

So the front is ready for tubing to start hanging parts on so I needed to get the rear ready as well.  Here is the rear Bearing Carrier/5-link mount.  I tacked on one tube top front, but you can see that there are three tube saddles where the chassis will attach.


View from the driver side rear.



View from driver side front.



View from passenger side rear.  Small hole in rear plate is for chain tensioner screw.  Big hole is for sprocket.



Passenger side.  Still some small gussets to add.  This is the part that has the impossible job of holding the sprocket from one side.  The boxing on the 5-link brackes serves a dual purpose of stiffening the 5-link mounts and the mounting points for the bearing carrier.

[Engineer]

Bearing carrier, Bearing, sprocket, CV, Brake rotor.  You can see the chain adjustment slots it moves on.

The bearing / Sprocket pilots are such that the bearing has to be pulled out toward you in order to remove the sprocket.  By removing the bolts and lifting straight up the bearing carrier comes out.  It will get some stiffeners now that I see that it CAN be assembled. 



Added brake caliper.



Rear view.



Driver side.  (Reidy, Chris, Baloo....   I know that DS doesn't make a lick of sense.  )

[Engineer]

I added a wheel. 

[chrishallett83]

Mate I know (and mentally adjust for the fact that) you guys drive on the wrong side of the road!

It mostly (99%) looks great to me mate. One thing sort of pokes me in the 'hmm, I wonder' spot - keeping those bearing carrier/adjusting bolts tight and secure, and the chain tight with it! You're gonna be putting an awful lot of force through those four mounting points, they're gonna want to come loose like crazy...

[fabr]

I'm of the same thinking. Time will tell tho. Looking good so far .

[tenaja]

...especially with it only mounted on one side! (Unless I just couldn't see the sprocket side mounts...)

[Engineer]

Have you had much trouble with the wheel bearing coming loose on your vehicle?  It is mounted the same way.  Of course my four mounting bolts are spread out much wider than the bearing mount for maximum leverage.  Also made them fine 7/16" fine thread for more clamping force. 

We will see.

[chrishallett83]

Have you had much trouble with the wheel bearing coming loose on your vehicle?  It is mounted the same way.  Of course my four mounting bolts are spread out much wider than the bearing mount for maximum leverage.  Also made them fine 7/16" fine thread for more clamping force. 

We will see.

The hubs in my car are definitely mounted differently to that. Modified MacPherson strut in the front and multi-link in the rear.

Whilst I do not doubt you will be able to torque the hell out of the mount bolts and generate a bucket load of clamping force, my worry is that the said clamping force is only being applied to a small area of the mount plate. Which, unless you hardened it, will likely deform under heavy vibration and shock loadings, causing bolt torques to become unstable and 'wind off' and also causing the slots in the mount plate to get thrashed out.

Personally I hope you're right and it works trouble-free for decades to come.

[Engineer]

[Reidy02]

Wow Eng I like the jig mate oh and the build looks good too! 

[Grimm Reaper Racing]

Have you had much trouble with the wheel bearing coming loose on your vehicle?  It is mounted the same way.  Of course my four mounting bolts are spread out much wider than the bearing mount for maximum leverage.  Also made them fine 7/16" fine thread for more clamping force. 

We will see.

I'd be willing to bet that as long as those 4 bolts STAY tight, the coefficient of friction between the plates is pretty high.  If your worried, I'd cut some key stock to fill the void on a couple of the slots when you get the chain tight.  As the chain stretches, just grind a little more the the key stock.  It's not the best solution, but it might be the cheapest and easiest.  Just my two cents.

By the way... It's looking very nice Eng!