DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Machinery, Trailers, Toyhaulers and Motorhomes => Trailers, Toyhaulers and Motorhomes => Topic started by: Boostinjdm on March 25, 2009, 12:36:45 AM
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I have been building trailers for myself for about 6 years now and about the time I get one done, I get the urge to build another. Once in a while I will build matching ones, but for the most part they are all different. I learned some very important lessons on sizing when I built my first ones, so all of my trailers are 2" longer and 2" wider than they need to be. A sheet of plywood is kinda snug in a trailer that is exactly 4'x8'. :-[ Also, an over built trailer needs heavier axles to have a useable payload rating. See 15 footer below. :-[ A few years back I got enough 2"x3"x1/8" tubing and 1/8" steel deck plate to build 8-10 16 foot car trailers for scrap price, so if you are wondering, that's where the material comes from ;D. it was rejected by a local manufacturer because of a slight dusting of rust. When I say slight, I mean if give it a very quick going over with a wire wheel, it looks just like brand new. I don't mind a little bit of prep time compared to the thousands of dollars I saved in material. ;)
My current homebuilts are.
50"x98" single 2000 lb torsion axle tilt bed with custom stainless bolt action latch and steel bedlined deck. Approx 1500 lb payload capacity, although I have "tested" it to 1800 lbs without problems.
80"x15' 2" Tandem 3500 lb torsion axle flat bed with steel deck and approx. 5000 lb payload, although I have "tested" it to about 6000 lbs with no problems and the trailer didn't squat more than about 1 1/4" from empty to fully loaded so I suspect the second hand axles are rated for more than 3500 lbs. (Recently sold to buy running gear for 16 footer below.)
80"x16' 2" Tandem 5200 lb torsion axle flat bed with bedlined steel deck and approx 8000 lb payload. This one is an updated version of the 15 footer, and is sitting on the floor waiting for running gear. I built two of these side by side and sold off the other one to cover costs.
62"x10' 2" Tandem 3500 lb torsion axle dump trailer with approx 5000 lb payload cap. This one is a work in progress and i suspect will be the most used trailer of the bunch once completed. I will have to take pics of the others tommarrow in the daylight, but for now here are some of the dump trailer. It is extremely over built, and depending on how well the scissor lift functions, it may get heavier axles in the future. I designed it so that the fenders and lights are all contained in the lower frame, so that if something happens to the box it can be removed and scrapped and I will still have a perfectly useable 5x10 tandem trailer that just needs a deck installed. I plan on sitting the battery and pump down into the tongue and putting a nice cover plate over it. I have to double up the tubing under the tongue, but when I do it will give my a 6" deep box to work with.
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Nice work.
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16 footer.
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8 footer
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There's one MAJOR flaw in all of them. I can't believe you built those and never had a problem. Everyone I know of has had nothing but trouble from those designs. It's pretty common knowledge that you MUST follow the rules when building something. Sooooo just where the hell IS the steering wheel and seat anyway? Why such short travel? NO shocks??????????? I mean come on now you'll never get across the whoops at any decent speed like 80 or 90 without some serious rework! ;D ;D ;D ;D Nice work!!!! Good job.
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There's one MAJOR flaw in all of them. I can't believe you built those and never had a problem. Everyone I know of has had nothing but trouble from those designs. It's pretty common knowledge that you MUST follow the rules when building something. Sooooo just where the hell IS the steering wheel and seat anyway? Why such short travel? NO shocks??????????? I mean come on now you'll never get across the whoops at any decent speed like 80 or 90 without some serious rework! ;D ;D ;D ;D Nice work!!!! Good job.
It's easier to convince the girlfriend that I need a trailer than a buggy. ;D I did have a moped that would do over 100mph once. ;D It was strapped to a trailer, which was hooked to my car, and some redneck in his loud ass pick up with long whip antennaes thought it would be fun to race me. I wonder how he felt after getting whooped by a little Honda hatchback pulling a loaded trailer. ;D I bet he never heard the end of it from his buddy in the passenger seat. 8)
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That's priceless.
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So on this dump trailer, I am having trouble making up my mind. The fenders and lights and wiring will all be in or on the lower frame. So the only thing the sides will be good for is keeping shit in. Should I weld on steel sides, or should I just do stake pockets for wood sides? If I do steel sides, it will be heavier and harder to pull down the highway, but would contain loose shit better. If I do stake pockets with wood sides or removable steel sides then I can use it as a flatbed most of the time and it will pull easier, but in the event that I need to haul gravel or dirt or something the removable sides are bound to have gaps that let shit fall out going down the road.
This is my first mid-size trailer and I suspect I will use it more than any of the other trailers. Mostly for getting building materials and hauling toys and equipment. I have a few things that are too big or too heavy for my 4x8, and too small to really justify pulling the 15 or 16 footers. A couple of examples would be skid loader, half finished buggy, yet to be started on Pilot and tubing bender. I noticed a penalty of about 4mpg when I added the wood sides to my 15 footer, and I really hate to pull it unless I have too.
Another trailer I have been considering is a real long lightweight one just for getting long lumber or steel tubing. I have a torsion axle that could only fit a 42" bed between the tires so it wouldn't be good for much (this is the one from my other thread on nurse tanks). I was thinking about an 18 foot skeleton frame, kinda like a boat trailer. Maybe even make the tongue expandable. It would be nice and lightweight and would handle the long lengths well. Right now I have to drive 25 miles one way to get material, and once I move, I will prolly have to drive at least that. So saving on fuel is important expecially if I am going after just a few lengths of tube or something.
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Been busy. Tongue doubled up, scissor mounts located, coupler welded on. And 2nd axle has been narrowed to fit and bolted on as well. I did say this thing was going to be over built didn't I?
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When did you buy a tank that needs transported?
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I don't want to have to worry about this thing holding up. ;D And the material cost me next to nothing.
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Do you have the hydraulics already? Is it a commercial scissor, or are you building it from scratch?
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I already have the cylinder. Still trying to get ahold of a pump. The scissor is being built from scratch to fit my specific specs.
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Are you looking for an electic or hand pump? Surplus center or northern hydraulics might have something.
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Electric. Northern is a little high. I got a brand new freebee coming if the guy can get ahold of it. He had some stuff stored at a relatives or something and it sounds like they locked him out. Don't know the full story, but they don't want to give him his stuff back. Otherwise I been scouting ebay for a long time and it looks like anywhere from $250-$350 will get me one. I want to do a wireless remote also. ;D
And yes, I have high standards. Sometimes too high for my wallet, but eventually I get what I want. Just takes some patience.
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Ok. I double checked since you brought it up.
Northern wants $329.99 for single acting with solenoid. 2500psi
Northern wants $499.99 for double acting with solenoid. 2500psi
I would prefer double acting so I can use the cylinder to pull the scissor down tight.
I would also prefer a little higher pressure, which I do find from time to time on ebay.
single acting would be fine if i didn't use the scissor, but then I couldn't get enough angle without going to a multistage cylinder. Aiming for 40 degree dump angle.
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Found out i have split personalities today.
One likes to measure.
One likes to build shit.
Neither one likes to talk to the other....
I have suspected this was the case for a while now.
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I always thought a power pack like what runs an outdrive up and down on a boat would work great. No valve required, it just reverses directions.
Anyway I can't locate those now. I thought they were around $250.
Here is one on surplus center for $219. Depending on cylinder size it may be slow. But I like the manual over-ride ability.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009052518360377&item=9-7550&catname=hydraulic (https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009052518360377&item=9-7550&catname=hydraulic)
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That had crossed my mind, but I am lookin for more like 3000-3500psi. The duty cycle kinda has me worried. slow doesn't bother me. but with my 4"x24" cylinder I might be pushin the duty cycle on one of those pumps. It's going to be totally enclosed so heat may become an issue.
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Hi Boostin
you might be pushing the volume depending on the tank size but not likely the duty cycle i have been using this type of pump for years. heat also shouldnt be a problem, there is a pressure adjustment on most of them just be sure to use a guage to ck when adjusting it. Try running it befor you adj the pump , I doubt you will need more pressure than 2500. good luck
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Hi Boostin
you might be pushing the volume depending on the tank size but not likely the duty cycle i have been using this type of pump for years. heat also shouldnt be a problem, there is a pressure adjustment on most of them just be sure to use a guage to ck when adjusting it. Try running it befor you adj the pump , I doubt you will need more pressure than 2500. good luck
I'm gonna hafta dissagree with just about everything you said. Refering to the pump in the link....It says 1 GPM @1500psi. Without doing the math, I would guess that a 4"x24" cylinder will require a gallon or more to fully extend. So it would take 1 min+ to extend the cylinder. It says 1 min on/ 5min off for duty cycle. So just raising an empty trailer would exceed the duty cycle. What happens when it is loaded and the pump really has to work?
Heat will be a problem, I guarantee it. the pump, along with the battery, and possibly the reservoir (if I can swing it) will be stuffed into the toungue with little to no airspace available for cooling. It will have a lid on it and the trailer will be black.
On the pressure....My cylinder is good for 3000psi, and using a scissor set up I might need it. So if I have to buy a pump then I am going to buy one capable of at least 3000psi whether I need it or not. The price difference is not that great from what I have seen. Just as well do it right the first time....
If this type pump works for you then keep using it, but if my buddy falls through with his new freebie offer and I have to buy one. Then I am going to buy one I am sure is up to the job.
I can't afford to spend the money and then be dissapointed.
Keep in mind that most of these 12v power units "look" the same, but are of varying quallity.
Just because they appear to be the same, does not mean they are.
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Looks like I haven't updated this thread in a while. Here's some pics...
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Hey Boost looks good Mate I like ya hydraulic tank, but what are ya carrying on it semis/ tractors?
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Hey Boost looks good Mate I like ya hydraulic tank, but what are ya carrying on it semis/ tractors?
Whatever will fit. ;D If I find something to heavy, I can always upgrade the axles and reuse these for two new trailers. Lot's of tubing left...
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Finally! I think I got all the little details addressed and the main part of the frame can be painted and removed from the garage. I'm getting tired of sweeping under it and walking around it. My new paint gun sucks ass, hopefully I can get it figured out for the color. If not, then I'll just have to resort to using the touch up gun, or rattle cans. I'm good with rattle cans (and actually have enough on hand) ;D.
Here's a primer pic....
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And.......it's black. Gun worked OK. Couldn't adjust the pattern for shit and had to thin the Rustoleum 50/50 with acetone, but it's done. Now I just need to skip town for a few days and when I get back bolt the axles on. At least I'll be able to move it. ;D
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Sittin on it's own two wheels. ;D I still have to order a new set of four, these are my bad set. I just can't make up my mind on what size to get for the new ones.
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I forgot to add, finished deck height will be 20", which is LOW. ;D Fenders are currently 30 inched from the ground and the steel sides will be bout 2-3" above that. So I shouldn't have any trouble dumping shit over the sides to fill it. ;D With the low deck height, loading the skidloader or any toys shouldn't be a problem either.
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I've been putting it off, but now I have to decide what to do with the bed. Three choices. Flat bed, steel sides, or side rail. I already have the sheet for the floor. If I go flat bed then all I have to do is weld the floor down and add stake pockets. If I go steel sides then I have to purchase material and get it bent for the sides, as well as make some sort of tail gate. If I go with a side rail then I have to purchase material for those.
I'm kinda leaning towards steel sides. Towing will suffer, but I will be able to haul loose stuff without it falling out and I could make a vinyl cover. Flat bed would be easier to strap stuff down using the stake pockets, but won't hold loose stuff well. The bed also wouldn't be as stiff, but I'm not sure I'll have any problems there. ;D I could always add wood sides to the flatbed, but then my buggy won't fit. The trailer will mainly be used to haul things that can be strapped down like tools, toys, and material. Secondary use will be for scrap, debri, and dirt.
What do you guys think?
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Flat bed with stake pockets for stakes and removable side boards of perhaps several heights to make it a truly universal trailer.
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Looks really nice BTW!
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Removable fold down steel sides?
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I'm kinda thinkin 12-14" steel sides with channel shaped uprights on the rear so I can just drop in a board or piece of alum ;D for a tailgate. That could all change at any moment though....
I kinda liked the 2x wood sides I put on my 15ft trailer to haul scrap because they were cheap and disposable. They didn't sit on the bed very tight though and nails and other small items could sneak under them. It would also bring my width down to just shy of 5' (bed is currently 5' 2") and I know that would cause me trouble from time to time.
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Looks good Boost! Man they look heavy duty!!! I know they are suppose to be.. ;)
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From my experience at work loading small gravel and sand I had an idea ::). Build the side out of 2 X 6 tounge and groove. Make a groove in the trailer floor then the side rails tounge down slide into some stake pockets and into floor groove. No loose gravel or nails slip thru, no broken windows. Also using a snap type clamp?? w/ hook on to attach the sides to front/back. Quite sturdy, easy to undo to remove the gate or sides.
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A little progress today. Had to take a break and earn some money though. I've still got to mount my circuit breaker, wireless brain box, and winch relays. to this plate.
Anybody here tried a wireless winch control? I can't make up my mind on which brand to get. I like the super winch ones because of the remote mounted antenae, but part of me just wants to buy a cheapy. I'll be within 25ft when using it, so range isn't real important. If it has an integral antenae, it will have to transmit through 1/8" steel though.
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I HATE the wireless ones I have had by Ramsey . I've had 2 and they are POS. If there is a good one I need to know also.
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Personally I doubt ANY will transmit through plate.
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Well, I made out like a bandit a couple days in a row, so I was able to order parts. Got my toggle's in and superwinch wireless control on order, backorder ::). Also got my floor tigged on. Some may say that's a waste of time, but I welded it every 6" underneath to the cross members and all the way around the outside top with zero warpage. Deck is as perfectly flat as I can tell. I was also able to get the sides bent up and welded on the outside. Ended up being 18" tall cuz I had to buy full sheets so I didn't want to waste any material. I'm tempted to mig the inside, but don't want to develop a warp this late in the game. Any suggestions? Anyways, here's some pics. The end is near, I hope...
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Looks great Boost
I think you'll be fine mig'n it now....the amount of brakes in the sheet and the fact that it's attached now should hold it where it is
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Personally I think you will later regret having those sides attached permanently. Trailer is looking great tho.
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Personally I think you will later regret having those sides attached permanently. Trailer is looking great tho.
I don't know, time will tell. This is my first trailer with permanent solid sides. My trailers in the past have been flatbeds, or had side rails. My 15' trailer did have semi-permanent sides though. I put them on to haul scrap and a year later when I sold the trailer, they were still on. I'm doing a drop in tailgate on this dump trailer and I think I'm going to like it. No worrying about shit slipping out. Tieing stuff down will be kinda of a pain, but with solid sides and the tailgate pinned in, I won't have to tie everything down...
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By the way, this is the winch control I ordered. #06212. http://www.superwinch.com/Freedom_Winch.html
I ordered it from etrailer cuz they were the cheapest, and I made a large enough order to get free shipping. But....they didn't have any in stock so I have to wait for it. Got a cushioned ball mount coming too. ;D I'll have a review on both items in the future if anybody wants to know about them. I think I'll start with the wireless antennae on the underside of the lid for my control box. I've got to open the lid to "arm" everything anyway.
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Each way has it's pros and cons alright.
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This the one I had last.
http://www.ramsey.com/automotive/wirelessremote.html (http://www.ramsey.com/automotive/wirelessremote.html)
It wouldn't run the winch continously while loading/unloading. It would only run about 2 feet at a time. Let us know how yours works. I'm fooking tired of the RAMSEY POS units.
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Does Superwinch make a universal wireless controlunit?
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If it's not....It will be. ;D I included a link, check it out.
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This one looks like it works with my Dayton winches. Looks like the same antennae/transmitters as you're getting. I'm really interested in how yours works.
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Hell check this out.
Amazon
3/5 stars
6 Seller Reviews
In Stock
Free Shipping
$131.98
Go to Store
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No linky....
here is etrailer's listing.
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-ATVWNCH~SW06212.htm (http://www.etrailer.com/pc-ATVWNCH~SW06212.htm)
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got a little more done. Also sent etrailer an email stating my regret about ordering from them. 2 1/2 hrs later my parts were shipped and nobody replies to my email. Interesting..... Anyways here's some pics. I added channels for the tailgate and fully welded the inside with mig. The sides moved in about 3/8" in the middle, but I can live with that. Better in than out. I built the trailer 2" wider than 5' anyways. Still got to figure out D-ring placement and winch mount. Hopefully some paint this weekend.
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Siderails? moved out? Yup better in than out. They'll get pushed out soon enough.
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My floor has a little rust, but it has been sitting in my building for 3 years... On the paint note, I was planning on my usual rustoleum primer and gloss black, but I'm also considering forgetting the black on the inside and going with slip plate instead. Anybody used it? how does it hold up to steel and shit being dragged across it? At least I can touch up the gloss black with a rattle can.
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You can get rid of that rust with a bit of muriatic acid. Be very careful not to breath ANY of the fumes. Use rubber gloves! and eye protection! Brush it on ,rinse with plenty of water,let dry thoroughly and paint immediately.
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I think my wire brush and ear plugs will handle it fine. I have considered the acid for cleaning other things lately, just not comfortable with the clean up afterward.
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WHat cleanup? Water neutralizes it completely. Same stuff as is used to maintain Ph levels in swimming pools. . I used it for years . I'd run cast iron blocks and heads through the pressure washer to remove all oils and paint. Then a quick spray of muriatic. Rinse. VIOLA! -a brand new looking block or head. One thing though,IF you decide to use it wet down any concrete first. Muriatic loves to eat concrete.
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I was going to say that...
Back in my landscaping days we used to do a weak muriatic acid wash before treating exposed aggregate side walks and patio's to enhance the stones appearance against the cement
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WHat cleanup? Water neutralizes it completely.
I'm more worried about the water than anything. Water and my garage don't mix.
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As of 9pm, it is primered. It may be black by midnite if I get off my ass. That's the winch mount on the front.
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Gee's Boost I'll bet ya burnt up the wire on that one mate!! ;D Looks good nice and strong.. ;)
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Not too much ;D. I like to weld everything inside and out if I can. Keeps the rust away. Didn't get 'er done by midnite, but I did get 'er done. Here's a few bad pics of a fairly decent paint job. Remember me bitchin about my new gun? It's in the trash now, I borrowed a binks from a friend.
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Looks good mate, trouble is now you wont wanna get it dirty!! ;D
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Ya wanta sell the trailer? just kidding. Looks great. What you plan on hauling that you need dump trailer?
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Not done yet, but closer.
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Very nice Boost, wont that colour show up the dirt?
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maybe, but black goes with everything. Just ask a woman...
And show me a color that won't show dirt, other than rust.
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Yeah true, and ya right black does go with everything! What are you using it for? I mean I could go back and read through it to find out but I'm just too lazy... :)
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It's easier to say what I won't use it for. This will be my "go to" trailer. The size is right, and the weight rating is right. I won't haul my bike on it. I won't haul any cars on it. Everything else is fair game. Scrap, lawn mower, construction debris, rock, building materials, bender, press, skid loader, etc. Maybe even a buggy if I ever get back to it. Or an RZR possibly.
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Hahaha Go Boost, so ya don't mind making a quid then! Man have ya got time to do the buggy? Shit after all that I wouldn't think you'd have time to scratch ya self..
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Progress for the day, er, two days...
I positioned it as it will be mounted to check and make sure all my measurements are good. Still have to get the bushings made and welded in, but it's coming along.
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lookin' good!
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Got my cylinder shortened and the scissor finished and mounted in the trailer. Sorry no completed pics of that, but I should have some pics of it up in the air in the next couple days. Here's a pic of today's progress so far. It's a mess, but damn close to done. ;D
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Than one nice ass trailer boost
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well foook! 5: I knew things were going too good... So I get my wiring near complete, just have the toggle switches to hook up, but if I twist a couple wires together the wireless controll works. So I try and run the winch and I hear the relays in the wireless box click, but not the winch relays. ::) So after a few minutes of messing around I find the problem. The fooken wireless box throws out a 12v signal, which is to be expected. What I didn't expect is that the winch relays need a ground signal, not power. Not too big of a deal, but I mounted the fooken relays to the bottom of the aluminum plate. So it will take about an hour of work just to get to them. thumb down I also found out that I put the fooken plug and Jic fittings in the wrong god damned ports in the pump, so now I got to switch them except I need a 12pt socket to fit the plug and I don't even own one. All mine are six point. :'(
Ok, so now a question, should I pull all my shit apart to switch the trigger on the relays, or should I just wire up a couple more to switch the sicnal and mount them in my toggle switch box?
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Got my pump straightened out. ;D Now I just got to tackle that damn winch problem.
So from memory, #85 and #86 are the coil terminals on the relay. Right now I know that one is piggybacked off the power wire and my wire is hooked to the other. To change from negative to positive trigger, I just need to cut out the jumper and replace it with a ground....Correct?
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Speaking of winches....Here is a decent pic of the winch mount and fairlead.
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Got 'er all straightened out. ;D Dumps to 38 degrees in 28 seconds. Drops back down in 35 seconds. Now all that's left is the cover for the tongue. It's already cut out, I just have to make a box for the toggle switches. Love this wireless thing too. ;D It cost more than my winch, but I love it. Did I say I love it? Here's some pics of testing....
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How much money do you fiqure you have in this trailer?
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Best guess? 4k or so in parts and materials. No labor. I have been trying to keep track on a spreadsheet, but it only has the major items. I don't know how many hundreds of dollars I've spent one handful of bolts or a couple grinding disks at a time. It's definately cheaper to buy one that's this size and capacity, but it's not built anything like mine.
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Wow Boost that's cool good job!! :o Very Nice..
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If you were to guess how many ton the trailer is, what would you think? Found some locally by us.That's not bad for what you think you have in it.
http://www.johnsontrailerco.com/3-half-ton-dump.php (http://www.johnsontrailerco.com/3-half-ton-dump.php)
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If you were to guess how many ton the trailer is, what would you think? Found some locally by us.That's not bad for what you think you have in it.
http://www.johnsontrailerco.com/3-half-ton-dump.php (http://www.johnsontrailerco.com/3-half-ton-dump.php)
Well I have two 3500# axles, so that's 7000# just like your link. Estimated dry weight is 2000#, so size and payload capacity is very similar to your link.
However, mine has a lot of bells and whistles that trailer only dreams of.
Torsion axles instead of leaf springs.
20" deck height instead of 30".
Winch vs. no winch.
Wireless all weather remote + trailer mounted controls instead of their "all weather" wired remote.
My fender, flush mounted led lights vs. their cheesy sealed lights.
My 4" cylinder and scissor vs their 3" cylinder.
My rear hitch complete with wiring vs none.
My in frame protected and hidden wiring vs their plastic wire loom.
My well thought out pump and battery placement vs their jumbled mess.
My overbuilt ridgid frame vs their barely strong enough frame.
I am sure there is more that I'm missing, but I think you get the idea.
I will admit that they have me beat on brakes. I only have them on one axle, but I did include provisions for brakes on the other axle if I need to add them in the future. Oh yeah, mine also has a lifetime warranty. :P
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I forgot to add that my trailer is designed to be dragged without damage. It won't hang up on stuff, and there is nothing underneath to be damaged by stuff if you go off road with it.
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This wireless control is officially "The Shiznit" ;D I said I'd do a review, and here it is.
I finally got my cover and controll box made and got to test everything out. My antennae is mounted to the underside of the controll box lid so it's protected. Anyways, everything worked as planned. So I thought, hey I'll try it with the lid closed (it's 1/8" thick steel). No problem, worked great. So I raised the bed and stood behind it with the lid still closed. Still worked. So I'm thinkin to my self, "this things worth every penny. Damnit! Now I got to piss." So I went inside and that's when it hit me....How bout I try it from inside the house. So (I know, lot's of "so's") here I am standing in the kitchen 35 ft from the garage looking out the window and into the window of the garage where I can see the corner of the bed. With the controll box lid still shut and the remote in my pocket, I hit the button. Yep, still works. I think it's up to snuff. Here's some pics...
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COOL!!! They must have really improved them. I got mine when they used a "T" copper stick on antennae. REALLY good to hear it works WELL.
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If I had to choice between yours and the link above. I would defently choice yours Hands down.Have you ever built a gooseneck dump trailer?
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nope, but I did give it a lot of thought before I started this one. If I build another, don't plan on it unless somebody wants to part with a lot of money, it will be a gooseneck.
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Tried to get a plate today, they wanted to inspect it. So now I'm waiting on the DOT. eyes thumb down
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Got a call from the DOT man today. Found out some interesting news.
Apparently they are more concerned with empty weight than loaded weight. eyes If empty weight is over 2000 lbs. it is required by federal law to have brakes on all axles regardless of GVWR. It also has to be inspected and a title made out. I wonder how many trailers out there don't meet that requirement. :police: So anyways, I have to make a trip to the scale and see where I'm at. If I'm over then I've got to spend another couple hundred bux and do a little more wiring cuz I've only got brakes on one axle. I told him it's hard to find good solid info on brakes and lighting, he just chuckled. eyes
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1700 lbs. Woohooo! Going to get my plate. ;D
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Got a call from the DOT man today. Found out some interesting news.
Apparently they are more concerned with empty weight than loaded weight. eyes If empty weight is over 2000 lbs. it is required by federal law to have brakes on all axles regardless of GVWR. It also has to be inspected and a title made out. I wonder how many trailers out there don't meet that requirement. :police: So anyways, I have to make a trip to the scale and see where I'm at. If I'm over then I've got to spend another couple hundred bux and do a little more wiring cuz I've only got brakes on one axle. I told him it's hard to find good solid info on brakes and lighting, he just chuckled. eyes
It's that way in every state. It's like they get a thrill out of being less than helpful.
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Got to use the trailer for the first time today. Glad I got it done when I did. I had to go pickup a skid loader to clear the driveway.
Found out that the paint is super slick with snow (already expected this) and the winch with wireless control is priceless. Because of the slick paint, I had to use the winch to pull the skid loader on while I was driving it. That's where the wireless came in handy. Also checked out the range, 150ft advertised, 160ft tested. That was with the lid closed.
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That is too freekin cool.
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That is too freekin cool.
You're tellin me...
So now onto modifying.....Gonna add a volt gage and charger port to the control box so I can monitor batt status and charging. I wanted to add it before, but needed to make sure I had the funds first.
ON a side note, found out what was wrong with my skid loader tonite. It just sheared the splines out of the fancy ass coupler I built. If I would have known that, I would have fixed it this summer. It's like a $10 weld hub. eyes Kinda wonderin why all the splines went at once in a new hub though ??? Maybe cuz it's just a $10 weld hub? Fookin snow anyways...
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Shot some vid today. Camera guy sounds like he needs an afro and a pet squirrel, but other than that I think it came out OK.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGScGUzoEM8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGScGUzoEM8)
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Looks great! Looks like a fun project. I'll be building a trailer for my cuda when it is done. Maybe I'll hit you up with some ideas.
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Nicely done Boost! A good all round trailer mate.. That tipping action's gonna save you a lot of shoveling.. ;) ;D Ya gotta be happy with that!!!
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The trailer is cool, you use it to haul off some snow.
Speaking of afro, squirrel, paint brush...
I went to school with these guys, they win any local comedy standup, trying to make it big. Enjoy!!
"http://www.youtube.com/v/t6hIAZbwO3k&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&hl=en_US&feature=player_embedded&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
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Lesson for the day.....don't buy cheap breakers. I give everybody shit for not buying quality parts and here is a perfect example of why.
So either my winch or my pump is supposed to draw 185 amps max (prolly the pump). I figure a 200 amp breaker would be more than enough. Then I priced them out. No name breaker ~$15, name brand ~$60. Didn't figure they could fxxk up something as simple as a breaker so I went with the cheapy. Today it tripped for the 4th and last time. It still works, but I just can't depend on it. Had ~4000 lbs of dirt half way up when it tripped. Not high enough to slide out, but too high to drive away. Just my luck. So I walked home and got my allen wrench to remove the cover and reset the breaker (really should have had one with me). Good thing I was only a couple blocks from home.... So tonight I will be ordering not only a better breaker, but a bigger one if I can find it just to be safe.
In case you missed the point, buy quality shit the first time!