DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => "AP" Member Project Logs => Topic started by: BrianN on January 31, 2021, 11:11:00 AM
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This stuff showed up at my door. I am not sure what to do with them? Google search just shows "boost", then leads to "closed deck".
(https://i.postimg.cc/xNPBB5Hf/20210131-115836.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xNPBB5Hf)
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very nice indeed!!
so is the new frame for the 2d next winter?? ;) ;D ;D :nw
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ohhh, Very nice. My next project for the buggy, if I ever get done with the dang basement project
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Kewl!!!!!!
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Getting close to the closed deck. Cases should be going to get bored, honed, and decked soon. Valvetrain and new turbo on their way.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zL7tdBXM/20210219-184317.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zL7tdBXM)
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That'll damn sure stabilize those bores. Did you make the filler plates?
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Yes. I machined the profile into the cases, then made matching inserts which are pressed in. They are .39 thick.
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This is prior to inserts.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gXfjX36b/20210128-164901.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gXfjX36b)
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very nice work indeed.
so what are you getting for the new turbo?
is the old one shot?
i know it was an ebay china turbo and was so as they are a cheap way to figure out what will work best for your application. i know they dont have the life expectancy but they do serve a purpose.
did you get the fuel system flushed ?
MORE BOOST ;D ya know......for 3rd gear wheelies :m
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This is prior to inserts.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gXfjX36b/20210128-164901.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gXfjX36b)
Well done.
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This current turbo is probably still fine, but I am upgrading since everything else is new. I have been working with Ecotech Imports from Ks City, MO on the turbo and other parts. They have experience with building and racing these motors, and seem to understand this thing we call "sand duning"! We had decided on a IHI VF48, but I got a text last night saying he was sending a VF30 V7. He was already gone for the day, so I will get an explanation later. I still need to get more E85 and run through my current system, since I have modified the fuel tank.
3rd gear wheelies? Why not shoot for 5th gear wheelies?!
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This current turbo is probably still fine, but I am upgrading since everything else is new. I have been working with Ecotech Imports from Ks City, MO on the turbo and other parts. They have experience with building and racing these motors, and seem to understand this thing we call "sand duning"! We had decided on a IHI VF48, but I got a text last night saying he was sending a VF30 V7. He was already gone for the day, so I will get an explanation later. I still need to get more E85 and run through my current system, since I have modified the fuel tank.
3rd gear wheelies? Why not shoot for 5th gear wheelies?!
now that's what i'm talking about ;D
the ihi series turbo's are smaller like the stock ihi i was going to give you off the stock 87-88 ford thunderbird. would be interesting to know the comp and turbine wheel sizes. did they say if these turbo's will breathe on the top end or are low end spooling turbo's and just make heat over say 5500 rpm?
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the reason i ask about comp/turbine sizes is based on my experimentation on my motor. i know there different but very close in displacement. my head is a large dia 2 valve which may not flow as well as a quad valve. the turbonetics to4e stage 3 ex was 53.89x76.2 COMP and 56.56x64.89 .63 a/r and that was pretty much a upper midrange to high end spooling turbo. the stock garret turbo off the 84 to 86 mustang is the sizes i called out for that ebay turbo you went with. i do not have that info infront of me right now but the comp was like 52x60 with a .48 or .63 a/r exh option. .63 was the choice for over 5500 rpm but .48 spooled slightly lower. the larger dia wheels have slower spool rates ( higher rpm). as enemy says it's turbo voodoo lol but # of blades as well as a slight tweak in pich as well as extended tip all play a role. those turbo's don't spool as low in the rpm as the 87/88 turbo coupe ihi series but breath better at higher rpms. i'm sure those guys know the suby turbo's very well. just make sure there not putting a turbo on that works well on the street as it will not spool low in the rpms for sand. the hybrid holset turbo i went with first was awesome for the street guys but a light switch in the sand. it was all mid to top end boost and came in hard and fast but no bottom end boost. the turbonetics was a more linear charge but again more mid and top end which doesn't work for myself in the sand. the efr 6758 dual bb turbo was very expensive but covers all 3 ranges very very well! if i would've bought it in the first place i would've saved money ;D we don't even want to get into the 3 different exhaust systems i built for all 3! i listened to the ford guys and turbo builder just to find out there idea of an amazing turbo is on the 2 step on the drag strip! the holset, turbonetics were journal bearing where the efr is dual ball bearing. the dual bb spool much lower in the rpm bank compared to the journal bearing style. the efr is a whole different level unto itself though.
before you choose ask them at what rpm the turbo's light. if they say comes in great around 2k rpm then that's a mid and high range turbo.
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i do understand flow plays a large roll in driving the turbo. that's why i said my dual valve head doesn't flow as well as a quad valve but my head does or did flow 210 cfm bo ports flow bench. that's what he rates the stage 3 heads at which is a huge improvement over the stock 150 cfm for sure. a sealed exh manifold really helps too rofl rofl i do need to address that before the trip!
https://www.i-club.com/forums/norcal-classifieds-96/fs-jdm-v7-sti-vf30-turbo-blown-266221/
IHI VF30
(460cfm at 18psi, 250-325whp, Bolt-On)
This is the standard equipment turbocharger used on the JDM V7 Subaru Impreza WRX STi (2002-2003 - bug-eye). The VF30 is a thrust-bearing turbo that utilizes the P18 exhaust housing of a VF24 and the compressor housing sized between a VF23 and a VF22. Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 3000-3500rpms.
for comparison the one you have been running is close to the 83 to 86 but i believe you have the .48 exh so full boost should be closer to 2200 rpm.
https://www.stinger-performance.com/faq.html
-Stock (87-88 Turbo Coupe) Ishi-Warner IHI: Less than 250 rwhp, super quick spooling (full boost at 1800-2300 rpm with a few airflow mods) but runs out of steam at higher engine speeds. Great for heavy cars or daily drivers. Good to 18psi or so.
-Stock (83-86 Mustang/Turbo Coupe, 84-89 Merkur) Garrett/AiResearch T3: Up to about 275 rwhp. Full boost at 2500-3000 rpm or so with a few airflow mods, pulls pretty well up top. Has a very hard "kick" when boost kicks in. Great for a daily driver/street terror with minor mods. Good to 23 psi or so if you've got enough fuel, octane, intercooling, etc. to safely run that much.
-T3/T4 Hybrid T04E 46 trim compressor/Stage III exhaust side with .48 a/r for street cars, .63 a/r for street/strip. Great for engines in the 250-350rwhp range. Full boost at 3000-3300 rpm or so with a header and supporting mods. Nice linear power throughout rpm range. Great for street/strip cars in the 12-13 second 1/4 mile range. Good to 25psi or so.
-T3/T4 Hybrid T04E 50 trim compressor/Stage III exhaust side with .48 a/r for street cars, .63 a/r for street/strip: Great for engines in the 300-410 rwhp range. Full boost at 3300-3500 rpm or so with supporting mods. Nice linear power throughout rpm range. Great for street/strip cars in the 11-12 second 1/4 mile range. Good to 35psi or so (if your tune and engine can handle it).
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I need to contact him and get my information organized before I speak more. You know I get confused real easy!!!! The numbers, ooooohhh the numbers!
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Getting close to the closed deck. Cases should be going to get bored, honed, and decked soon. Valvetrain and new turbo on their way.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zL7tdBXM/20210219-184317.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zL7tdBXM)
That is so cool. I would not trust myself to do that. How did you do it? If I had a guess, you had cnc program that milled the block, then used that same program with an offset to make the filler pieces? Please explain, thanks!!!!!!!!!!
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I need to contact him and get my information organized before I speak more. You know I get confused real easy!!!! The numbers, ooooohhh the numbers!
;D those look like stock turbo's with maybe a upgraded compressor wheel. don't need to get your info organized before speaking , just something to consider before deciding is all.
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Getting close to the closed deck. Cases should be going to get bored, honed, and decked soon. Valvetrain and new turbo on their way.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zL7tdBXM/20210219-184317.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zL7tdBXM)
That is so cool. I would not trust myself to do that. How did you do it? If I had a guess, you had cnc program that milled the block, then used that same program with an offset to make the filler pieces? Please explain, thanks!!!!!!!!!!
/\ /\ what he said :D
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That's how I would do it. Then would bore/hone to final bore size.
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Very nice Work. looks like a great upgrade.
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Arashi Dynamics GTX 2860 Gen ll. It sure looks cool!
(https://i.postimg.cc/jDcBYV5Q/20210315-105902.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDcBYV5Q)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CZ6tdjbR/20210315-105847.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZ6tdjbR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VrxVWmG1/20210315-105830.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VrxVWmG1)
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2:
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What boost and HP are you shooting for? Are you running E85?
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What boost and HP are you shooting for? Are you running E85?
300 crank hp, and 15psi boost max. Won't need that much in the high rpm, but maybe in the middle. Now, when the Weddle shows up... oh wait, I wasn't going to go that far!! My brother and I might dune this weekend if you want to play. Yes, E85.
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What boost and HP are you shooting for? Are you running E85?
300 crank hp, and 15psi boost max. Won't need that much in the high rpm, but maybe in the middle. Now, when the Weddle shows up... oh wait, I wasn't going to go that far!! My brother and I might dune this weekend if you want to play. Yes, E85.
personally...... i would see how much that stock trans will hold at LS before the new frame and 2d trans :D i say new frame as you said you will not mod that frame for a diff trans...... so that means new frame :nw LMAO
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what are the specs on the turbo???? come on, you knew i would ask! ;) ;D :m
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what are the specs on the turbo???? come on, you knew i would ask! ;) ;D :m
I am going to send you a link tonight. Just been pre occupied lately. Chose this one for several reasons, one of which is a collection of your advice and information. I am learning the basics! Still waiting for my cases to get bored so I can start assembly. Not only does big(ger) hp mean tranny, but also suspension, heims, bolts, steering, and so on. I think I will stop before that point! I can quit anytime I want...
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what are the specs on the turbo???? come on, you knew i would ask! ;) ;D :m
I am going to send you a link tonight. Just been pre occupied lately. Chose this one for several reasons, one of which is a collection of your advice and information. I am learning the basics! Still waiting for my cases to get bored so I can start assembly. Not only does big(ger) hp mean tranny, but also suspension, heims, bolts, steering, and so on. I think I will stop before that point! I can quit anytime I want...
the first step in the 12 step program is to admit the problem LMAO LMAO LMAO thats not admitting you have a problem :m :nw rofl rofl rofl
i blame budlight for you addiction.... he's a bad influence ;)
i would like to blame him for my addiction but that's enemy's fault! :m :m
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I seem to recall a phone call I made to some guy in Nebraska a few years ago. I was whining about not enough power to pull 3rd gear. He made the comment "Why don't you turbocharge it"? Hmmmm, who was that!!? I haven't slept well since and have no money.
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:m :m :m
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here is the turbo you bought brian..... https://arashidynamics.com/products/2860-t25-5-bolts-0-57-a-r-1
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based on the specs and the fact that it's dual bb!! this will spool insanely fast! low in the rpm boost for sure
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I seem to recall a phone call I made to some guy in Nebraska a few years ago. I was whining about not enough power to pull 3rd gear. He made the comment "Why don't you turbocharge it"? Hmmmm, who was that!!? I haven't slept well since and have no money.
true but i still blame budlight ;D it just sounds right on a couple of diff fronts :m :m
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Well I tell you what, BrianN is going head first down the old rabbit hole. There is no looking back now, just enjoy it, have fun, stay young and tell the Mad Hatter hi when you see him.
No worries, I can take it. This has got me just itching to get a closed deck block and other internals. Now that all my other BS projects are finally done (basement, bath tub to shower, raised the concrete shop floor) hmmm.
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nice work budlight
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Ditto!
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budlight is that a basement kitchen?
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Just a bar with sink, fridge and microwave.
BrianN, sorry, I didn't mean to derail your engine thread. Are you going to cc the heads? Check for piston deck height, calculate compression and valve clearance?
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Just a bar with sink, fridge and microwave.
BrianN, sorry, I didn't mean to derail your engine thread. Are you going to cc the heads? Check for piston deck height, calculate compression and valve clearance?
SOHC heads only have 2 cc's(not much difference in them, not sure which mine are), deck height should be from .005-.015(I think that is what John said, I will measure when new parts get here-wrong wrist pins were sent), I am not smart enough to figure compression, but it is supposed to be from 8.1:1 to 8.5:1. I have no idea about valve clearance, but I don't care about that as long as they don't hit anything!!
Just for a reference, what are these specs in your motor?
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My original engine was a JDM EJ25 that had about 10:1 compression ratio. I wanted to run pump gas so I got an STI short block that lowered it down to about 8.2:1. I can't find my sheet that had those calculations on it. My heads were about 58cc if I remember right. I am hoping that I can up the compression ratio when I build my next motor since I run race fuel now. I think it would give me better bottom end power until the turbo kicks in. Here are a few videos on how to measure and calculate your compression ratio. I don't have a fancy chemist's burette but just borrowed a friends large syringe.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqAr4DUqEt4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Q83erQRAcU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9io_DknQ3U
Keep the build pics updated!
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The correct wrist pins showed up today, thanks to Michael P.from Manley. Got some work done on my press mold for copper exhaust gaskets, and 1 piston connected to a rod! They make these pistons soooooo pretty, it's a shame to hide them in a block.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fkKrdvHy/20210325-202430.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fkKrdvHy)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/zb5tx2B6/20210326-141325.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zb5tx2B6)
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Nice work, I need a set of those!
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Nice work!
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Nice work, I need a set of those!
Thanks ya'all. I am lucky to be at a place where I have the ability to do (experiment)stuff like this. And Budlight, consider a set yours.
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Got a shortblock. And dsrace was right-budlight is a bad influence. He has me doing things like measuring the volume of the dish in my pistons and the deck height! 22 mL and .005-.006 by the way.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gXfD2ZNy/20210327-181341.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gXfD2ZNy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VdwqZ1TN/20210327-140001.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VdwqZ1TN)
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Well, now a delay in the long block. I guess they sent the wrong arp head studs. When bottomed out in the block, they are below the top of the head surface. But hey, I know the volume of the combustion chambers now! 51 mL. I will do some conversions and figure the compression ratio.
(https://i.postimg.cc/T5g5VRDg/20210327-191257.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/T5g5VRDg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/d7g04bvB/20210327-194941.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/d7g04bvB)
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OK, according to my calculations, I have 9.0:1 compression. What do ya'll think about that? Too much? OK for methanol and lower boost? They sold me stock sti head gaskets that measure .021" thick. Should I check on thicker gaskets? Or run it?
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Got a shortblock. And dsrace was right-budlight is a bad influence. He has me doing things like measuring the volume of the dish in my pistons and the deck height! 22 mL and .005-.006 by the way.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gXfD2ZNy/20210327-181341.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gXfD2ZNy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VdwqZ1TN/20210327-140001.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VdwqZ1TN)
LMAO LMAO rofl rofl :m :m yes he is.
damn fine work
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OK, according to my calculations, I have 9.0:1 compression. What do ya'll think about that? Too much? OK for methanol and lower boost? They sold me stock sti head gaskets that measure .021" thick. Should I check on thicker gaskets? Or run it?
i run 30 psi or did run 30 psi on a 9:1 cr. so i would say on e85 your more than safe at 20 psi with a good tune especially with forged rods and pistons. time for a 2d ;D ;) :m
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what is factory cr on a wrx or sti motor?
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i was running 10-1 one on my old Vw motor on vp110. 10 lb boost worked great. on e85 you should be fine at 9-1
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i was running 10-1 one on my old Vw motor on vp110. 10 lb boost worked great. on e85 you should be fine at 9-1
i couldn't remember how much boost you ran. so is that turbo on the trike motor now?
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Yes. its the one in the trike. But i have dropped it back to 8-1 and rebuilt it as a 2275. So i can put it on pump gas.
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OK, according to my calculations, I have 9.0:1 compression. What do ya'll think about that? Too much? OK for methanol and lower boost? They sold me stock sti head gaskets that measure .021" thick. Should I check on thicker gaskets? Or run it?
Just to verify,did youadd in the head gasket volume in your calcs?
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fabr, I am glad you asked that. I figured this in the middle of the night, in the house. I didn't have the actual gasket bore diameter, so I added .030" to the cylinder bore and used that as my calculations for the head gasket volume. (I hope that makes sense in writing)I will check my figures again. Waiting on new head studs for final assembly, now.
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And I wrote methanol in an earlier post. I meant ethanol. (E70)
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And I wrote methanol in an earlier post. I meant ethanol. (E70)
that's ok, we all know you've been using 70% meth and 30% boost, that's why i keep telling to show up for the thurs night meetings :m rofl ;)
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Had a few delays in my progress, but still working on it. Should have the headers finished, valves adjusted, and turbo oil/coolant lines figured out this week. Missed my dyno timeframe, so I won't be rushed to have it finished by the 27th.
(https://i.postimg.cc/87LCRyWY/20210413-180854.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/87LCRyWY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ppwTnN98/20210413-185622.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ppwTnN98)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VSRLTdKB/20210413-202447.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VSRLTdKB)
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starting to look like a runner. should be a land rock when installed.
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starting to look like a runner. should be a land rock rocket when installed.
Fixed it for ya! ;)
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thanks FAB. That is what i meant of course. :m :m :m :m :m . No one has ever entered me in a grammar or sleeping bee that's for sure!!!!!!! LMAO
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I wondered what a land rock was rofl Good thing you have another motor running! It is still in the buggy isn't it?
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Dave, what is a sleeping bee!? I thought maybe land rock was another name for boat anchor! Damn, we are all funny. HaaaHaaa. (That is me laughing out loud). Yes, the motor is still in the car. Yaaaay.
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i know despite all the set back and let downs from crap companies, this has been a steep learning curve. i am still surprised at how little aftermarket support there is for the suby motors. i say little support as there seem to be soooo many variations of that 2.5 engine. none the less you will have a rock solid engine when your done and you will know exactly whats inside the block! nice work
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^^^^^^^Ditto!!!!
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Or ACTUALLY a boat anchor!
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Or ACTUALLY a boat anchor!
i have more faith than that ;) it is a possibility but a very slim one.
you need to repeats some of your interactions with the "performance" suby companies around the camp fire in a couple weeks. i will say that you def were a lot nicer then i would've been!!!! especially that last crap hole company!
of course out front motorsports didn't make it any easier. i am glad that the majority have had a good interaction with them. plenty of posts on line of those that haven't and that really is sad.
you def need to tell a few camp fire "performance suby company" stories ;D rofl
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Or ACTUALLY a boat anchor!
i have more faith than that ;) it is a possibility but a very slim one.
you need to repeats some of your interactions with the "performance" suby companies around the camp fire in a couple weeks. i will say that you def were a lot nicer then i would've been!!!! especially that last crap hole company!
of course out front motorsports didn't make it any easier. i am glad that the majority have had a good interaction with them. plenty of posts on line of those that haven't and that really is sad.
you def need to tell a few camp fire "performance suby company" stories ;D rofl
I want to hear his. I have a couple myself.
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Another set of headers done. The last time. I really mean it THIS time!
(https://i.postimg.cc/R3d9byMs/20210415-200051.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R3d9byMs)
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Another set of headers done. The last time. I really mean it THIS time!
(https://i.postimg.cc/R3d9byMs/20210415-200051.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R3d9byMs)
looks really good. by the end of this build, once tuned and bolted to a 2d ;) you'll be like
(https://i.postimg.cc/Lgn48tZ8/731f91e6-d437-494f-8fe6-bae738fb0dc3-7954f5e9d181aa4078eb4a2554311303acce101d.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Lgn48tZ8)
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Now that is some funny stuff! I am still laughing at that picture. And, oh yeah, the 2d: remember, I said I would never go that far. I have been attending meetings.
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LMAO
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Or ACTUALLY a boat anchor!
i have more faith than that ;) it is a possibility but a very slim one.
you need to repeats some of your interactions with the "performance" suby companies around the camp fire in a couple weeks. i will say that you def were a lot nicer then i would've been!!!! especially that last crap hole company!
of course out front motorsports didn't make it any easier. i am glad that the majority have had a good interaction with them. plenty of posts on line of those that haven't and that really is sad.
you def need to tell a few camp fire "performance suby company" stories ;D rofl
I want to hear his. I have a couple myself.
we all do ;D
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Are any of you with BB turbos using a filter on the oil supply line? Only during engine break-in? Always? If so, what micron?
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Are any of you with BB turbos using a filter on the oil supply line? Only during engine break-in? Always? If so, what micron?
couldn't hurt. my engine was broke in long before so i never even thought about it.
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no,I don't see any reason to do so. The engine oil is already filtered. Maybe I'm wrong ?
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Almost all debris from break in is from the cylinder walls that are honed and cleaned using old school methods. With todays machining and honing procedures and attention to proper cleaning coupled with the much better quality of castings of engines the last 20 or more years there is very little trash generated during break in. Almost all debris will still be from the cylinder walls during break in but the procedures used to hone today avoids the vast majority.
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Thanks ya'all. I have read pros and cons of both situations. My oil supply is shortly after the engine oil filter, it appears. I also plan to, and welded fittings, to return the turbo coolant line into the return to radiator, after my coolant temp sensors. I didn't know if the engine coolant would actually be hotter after going through the turbo, and didn't want to get false temp readings. Does that make sense?
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makes sense to me .
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Something to consider is that most oil filters are bypass style and the actual amount of oil filtered may be as low as 10% as most of the oil is bypassed the filter media. Oil ,like electricity ,follows the path of least resistance. The least resistance is through the bypass valve as it opens around 20 psi or so on most filters.
So,the question always arises is why have the bypass valve? Mostly for cold oil reasons. cold oil doesn't like flowing through the filter media and there is the possibility of oil starvation in the engine with a full flow/non bypass filter. Would a non bypass filter be better? Probably but only if there is almost no pressure drop at any rpm. I run big ass bypass filters.
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That is good info to know, which I hadn't considered. I do know my Suby oil pump has a bypass/recirculation valve in it, but that is a different situation. I may still use a pre-turbo oil filter, but it will have to be easy to check, often. But also, we as duners, don't use the 3000 mile rule between oil changes. If so, I could go many years between changes!! Thanks.
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[FWIW,I would not use a separate filter for the turbo.
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The bypass in the pump is to limit engine oil pressure only. The filter bypass is to allow oil to flow in the engine when oil is flow limited by the filter in cold weather or with thick oils in general to prevent oil starvation and ultimately engine destruction.
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Makes a lot of sense now. I think you guys got the answer.
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Really quite sad i missed this thread a month ago.. Hi guys!! I'm jealous beyond description, of your ability to close your own decks!! do you have a cnc?
Tell me you didn't do that manually!! My understanding of subarus "Dual cams" is that you don't need a closed deck until you reach 500 wheel, This engine you built is probably capable of that easily. She will live a long time with this little turbo..
I threw a crapload of money in the SUBI direction in 2016, and I still haven't heard it Fire yet... 5:
(https://i.postimg.cc/SXqW2qyT/DSC-0165.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SXqW2qyT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZvFmqrjD/20171005-203716.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZvFmqrjD)
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Yes, I am very lucky to have full access to our machine shop. The hard part of machining the cases and inserts was the programming. We do not have cam software yet. I have had a few delays in the whole build process. I am a rookie at this! I have received a LOT of help and advice. They know who they are!! What is your engine going in?
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I just ordered a link g4x engine controller, next is the 6 speed then she's going in
But getting all that done while maintaining the buggy is a challenge.
(https://i.postimg.cc/xJd7z7QH/IMG-20201210-101431-348.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJd7z7QH)
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I watched a few videos from your YouTube link. Looks like you have some nice stuff. And skills!
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hell i thought you were driving that suby jersduz! brianN does do some nice work.
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How are you doing your engine management?...
Oh and have you seen the cyl 4 cooling mod ?
If you haven't lookn that up in you tube.. it's good for keeping cyl 4 from running hotter than the others and is super simple.
https://youtu.be/acO5TCyn0mk
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How are you doing your engine management?...
Oh and have you seen the cyl 4 cooling mod ?
If you haven't lookn that up in you tube.. it's good for keeping cyl 4 from running hotter than the others and is super simple.
https://youtu.be/acO5TCyn0mk
I have never seen a cooling kit like this. I will have to check the temp of #4 cylinder after a hard run. Thanks
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really good info there!!
had no idea cyl 4 was a hot spot. so since sand rails dont have heater cores ( most dont) one could tap the thermostat housing. i didn't catch which side of the heater core they were tapping. as in feed or return.
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How are you doing your engine management?...
Oh and have you seen the cyl 4 cooling mod ?
If you haven't lookn that up in you tube.. it's good for keeping cyl 4 from running hotter than the others and is super simple.
https://youtu.be/acO5TCyn0mk
Must have missed this. I am using Haltech Elite 1000. I don't give a sh*t what John from Outfront Motorsports says, the Haltech does work on a sandcar. I will watch your video on the #4 cylinder. Thanks.
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That darn budlight69, he is such a bad influence!!
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0FDdYSD/20210508-165357.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0FDdYSD)
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really good info there!!
had no idea cyl 4 was a hot spot. so since sand rails dont have heater cores ( most dont) one could tap the thermostat housing. i didn't catch which side of the heater core they were tapping. as in feed or return.
:) :) :) Some do. :m
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That darn budlight69, he is such a bad influence!!
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0FDdYSD/20210508-165357.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0FDdYSD)
Heart transplant time. You are gonna have some fun!!!!
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How are you doing your engine management?...
Oh and have you seen the cyl 4 cooling mod ?
If you haven't lookn that up in you tube.. it's good for keeping cyl 4 from running hotter than the others and is super simple.
https://youtu.be/acO5TCyn0mk
Must have missed this. I am using Haltech Elite 1000. I don't give a sh*t what John from Outfront Motorsports says, the Haltech does work on a sandcar. I will watch your video on the #4 cylinder. Thanks.
ANY engine management will work IF the tuner knows his stuff. Some just better than others. FWIW,I have a few doubts about John. I've ridden 2 cars tuned by him and I wasn't impressed with their drivability smoothness. Almost like WOT was all that really mattered. nHell,I guess that applies to a LOT of tuners.
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pic of the new motor? and hand sketch's of the new frame for the 2d? rofl ;D ;) ;)
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really good info there!!
had no idea cyl 4 was a hot spot. so since sand rails dont have heater cores ( most dont) one could tap the thermostat housing. i didn't catch which side of the heater core they were tapping. as in feed or return.
:) :) :) Some do. :m
and that's why i edited the statement to most don't LMAO
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pic of the new motor? and hand sketch's of the new frame for the 2d? rofl ;D ;) ;)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wthCdyfq/20210413-185622.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wthCdyfq)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2L5MvHzy/20210509-195447.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2L5MvHzy)
What is a 2d? I will google it!
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LMAO
engine looks very nice. now to get it installed and over to chris.
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Will YOU be able to look at the tuning maps after Chris does your tune? Will YOU be able to log some runs and make the tweaks needed for best performance/drivability? That is something that won't be addressed on the dyno.When I got my car back from Chris I had a big hole right in the middle of the map where one cell had a very low value in it. The map looked like a grid of space with a black hole in it. If I had not been able to view it I would have had no way to fix it. I'm NOT knocking Chris but that should not have happened . Period.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/HcHcBrNQ/239644085-10220138101986937-5898520990147120324-n.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HcHcBrNQ)