Best place to get U-joint Axles

[LiveWire]

If you can't find an off the shelf stub that will fit into the micro stub bearings, I can cut male splines. I have micro stubs and bearings on hand to verify fit. I can cut down 2 yokes and re-spline them to fit the bearings. The pivot point will likely be closer to the bearing than with the F-150 CV posted above. So you would have less U-joint angle than the CV for the same width. That might be limited on the inside though by the time you add two different plates, etc. I just looked at the Jeffco site to see what the output flanges look like. They appear to be standard off the shelf 930 flanges, probably conversion flanges. If they are say standard Type 2 or 091 to 930 conversion flanges, then I would look into using a pair of those flanges make a part of the axle. I would cut off the flange itself (unless needed to mount the brake disk) and weld the U-joint yoke to the remaining female spline. That way you can get the pivot point as close to the trans as possible. The tricky part is getting the snap ring in there if that is how the flanges are mounted. You'll need to leave enough room to get snap ring pliers in behind the U-joint to get the ring on.

[dsrace]

there is no snap ring and they are not standard 002 or 091 or t1 conversion flanges since they fit the stock focus r&p inside. the stand off for the adaptor u-joint flange is roughly 2.25" and would ONLY be needed on the box side since at the wheel a stock wheel bearing and stock stub with a conversion u-joint will connect directly to a 1310 series shaft which will be fine for a na app as long as the rail doesn't way 1600 lbs + nor have 33" + tall tires!!  1300's or 11's or blaster 26's on a 12" rim will be good and the wheel bearing has a 5 on 4.5" bp so douglas offers a 12" for it as well as several 15" out there on the market. I have run these parts on v-6 and bike so I know they work but on the v-6 I wound up going with 1350's cause I had to make new ones any way thaks to that pos felix at the drive shaft super store and his pos product!! enemy was doing fine with his 1310's and they are still running on a r1 rail to this day but when he started turning the turbo up i suggested 1350's especially since I was having a set built anyway.

the wheel bearing is stock over the counter and so is the spicer stub axle. the conversion u-joint to go from internal snap ring to external snap ring can be purchased at most parts stores as well but imo only buy rockford joints!! several other brands but they won't make the day.  if you go 1310 series then get the fun in the mud rockford joints cause they come with the zerts in the cap instead of the star cross so they are stronger and easier to grease.

any drive shaft store that cares about there product can build the shafts the only thing you will have to buy is the adaptor plate or since your good with cad, draw one up and have them laser cut to fit 930 bp.  also imo I wouldn't use anything less than rockford quality parts and I only say this cause I have used them for years w/o issues aside from self inflicted once 

[dsrace]

oh ya the wheel bearing is  '97 jeep cherokee not grand cherokee and no abs, off the front axle to guys not the rear. also you want the stock stub axle off the front and not the updated one with the larger yoke you want the original dana 30 stub which spicer does still make so don't let them tell you otherwise just because they are lazy!! I don't have the p/n for the conversion joint anymore but I bet enemy still has a box or a p/n so you'll have to ask him. this joint lets you attach the dana 30 stub to a 1310 only drive shaft. the rest is up to you to the builder to figure out!   also when selecting the 1310 series yokes make sure you get the ones that are stock 30* off the shelf and the dana 30 stub will handle that and more so your good to go w/0 maching yokes for higher angles but set your shocks so the shock at full extension holds the axle at 29* and limit strap at 28* so once it's stretched your close. or you can rub 2* more clearence out of the yoke and set them at 30* with the shock at full extension. before each trip grease the joints good and the slip shaft to be on the safe side.

[LiveWire]

I am about to laser cut 5/16. I already have a CAD file for a disk to fit 930 patterns. I had some rings made the last batch of 5/16. I would just need a diameter for a center hole in the disk.

[Enemy]

I don't have the p/n for the conversion joint anymore but I bet enemy still has a box or a p/n so you'll have to ask him

P/N K5291P2
Lists on receipt as "1310WJ/1310"
Price as of 10/08 was $21.07?? Wow...Im bettin they probably went up in price a bit 

Rockford Driveline
1500 11th Avenue
Rockford, IL 61104
815-962-1411

http://rockforddriveline.com/

[89redranger]

Anybody thought about using 91+ Cherokee Stubs, U-Joints, and Unit Bearings? 27 spline stub with a 297X joint... Seems easy enough to fab up some old drive-lines with slip shafts for axles, and have some adapters made for the other end for your cassette or whatever setup you've got. Hell use the Jeep outer half with a u joint, turn down the shaft a little, weld it into your slip shaft, turn down a type 4 or 930 axle, weld it in the other end of your slip shaft, stick it in your type 4 or 930 CV, bolt it up? U joint outer with easy high angle outers, plunging, and it can still mate up to your transaxle.

[dsrace]

Anybody thought about using 91+ Cherokee Stubs, U-Joints, and Unit Bearings? 27 spline stub with a 297X joint... Seems easy enough to fab up some old drive-lines with slip shafts for axles, and have some adapters made for the other end for your cassette or whatever setup you've got. Hell use the Jeep outer half with a u joint, turn down the shaft a little, weld it into your slip shaft, turn down a type 4 or 930 axle, weld it in the other end of your slip shaft, stick it in your type 4 or 930 CV, bolt it up? U joint outer with easy high angle outers, plunging, and it can still mate up to your transaxle.

that is what we have been talking about with p/n#'s and have been using for several years now.

[89redranger]

that is what we have been talking about with p/n#'s and have been using for several years now.

Sorry man. Didn't even see your post. Guess I should've read it all and not just skimmed. Just got a little excited! There are PILES of Cherocar parts here in Central Oregon, and shafts are about $15 each at the yards here. Most have brand new bearings, brakes, and joints. Cash for clunkers effects years later... Myself, I'd get two long side shafts, cut and machine them down to slip into a slip shaft section. Just rosette weld the slip shaft onto the axle shaft. The chassis end of the shafts would need to be figured out by the end user based on their needs as you said. Just trying to help...

[fabr]

All help and ideas are appreciated here. Don't hesitate to voice an opinion either!

[dsrace]

Sorry man. Didn't even see your post. Guess I should've read it all and not just skimmed. Just got a little excited! There are PILES of Cherocar parts here in Central Oregon, and shafts are about $15 each at the yards here. Most have brand new bearings, brakes, and joints. Cash for clunkers effects years later... Myself, I'd get two long side shafts, cut and machine them down to slip into a slip shaft section. Just rosette weld the slip shaft onto the axle shaft. The chassis end of the shafts would need to be figured out by the end user based on their needs as you said. Just trying to help...

ya they work well and i figured you didn't get it all read and yes all opinions are welcome on this sight!     there is no need to weld a stub on though when you can buy a conversion joint.

[Hollywood]

Crazy Fast Fab, Im in the same boat looking to build a Ujoint axle setup. I have researched different ideas and ways of going about it but cant seem to pinpoint much Off The Shelf stuff. Its mostly custom built setups, which is fine with me if I can figure out what are the best parts to go about setting up.

Im running a 35 HP Briggs V to an RPM Transfer case so its not a ton of horsepower to be worrying about. But it would be nice to set it up to maybe throw in a 600+cc Motorcycle engine in the future.
I have 930 inner joints and I'd have to build new trailing arms with most likely Intrepid hubs and 930 Micros. I have yet to find an off the shelf 1310 yoke that has a 930 bolt up flange.

Driveshaft Superstore sells a 1310 and 1350 buggy axle setup with 7 inches of plunge for 550-650 for the pair along with Ujoints and 930 flanges.
They also sell weldable 1310 yokes for 2" and 3" which I thought I could have some flanges plasma cut out with 930 bolt pattern, then weld the 1310 yokes to it. Then I could get 2 early Toyota 4x4  Front Driveshafts and take them to my local Driveshaft shop and have them cut and welded to length. Ive read about someone using Toyota driveshafts but Im not sure what the plunge is yet on them.   

[Hollywood]

DSRace,
Im researching your 97 Cherokee setup and I think Im understanding it a bit better now. The hard part is that Rockford doesn't have a very user friendly clear website or search. But I Googled the Cherokee parts and Im getting a better idea of what your talking about. Instead of using a micro stub 930 joint on like an f150 hub, your using the Cherokee Hub with the dana 30 axle stub/yoke right?
If im correct, then using the axle yoke is actually much better then a Micro stub because you gain about an inch or more of axle length putting the Yoke closer to the outer hub.

Would you happen to have any pics of your setup?

Are these the parts your using on your setup? I just pulled them from google to get an idea of the parts.
 http://www.1aauto.com/1A/wheel-bearing-hub-front/Jeep/Cherokee/1ASHF00011/322167/1997?utm_campaign=gb_api_br&year=1997&utm_medium=comparisonshopping&utm_source=google_base&utm_content=SHF&gclid=CKysjPHcqbICFWjhQgodPmoAhA

Outer axle shaft:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52433_02.htm
   

[dsrace]

Crazy Fast Fab, Im in the same boat looking to build a Ujoint axle setup. I have researched different ideas and ways of going about it but cant seem to pinpoint much Off The Shelf stuff. Its mostly custom built setups, which is fine with me if I can figure out what are the best parts to go about setting up.

Im running a 35 HP Briggs V to an RPM Transfer case so its not a ton of horsepower to be worrying about. But it would be nice to set it up to maybe throw in a 600+cc Motorcycle engine in the future.
I have 930 inner joints and I'd have to build new trailing arms with most likely Intrepid hubs and 930 Micros. I have yet to find an off the shelf 1310 yoke that has a 930 bolt up flange.

Driveshaft Superstore sells a 1310 and 1350 buggy axle setup with 7 inches of plunge for 550-650 for the pair along with Ujoints and 930 flanges.
They also sell weldable 1310 yokes for 2" and 3" which I thought I could have some flanges plasma cut out with 930 bolt pattern, then weld the 1310 yokes to it. Then I could get 2 early Toyota 4x4  Front Driveshafts and take them to my local Driveshaft shop and have them cut and welded to length. Ive read about someone using Toyota driveshafts but Im not sure what the plunge is yet on them.   

DRIVE SHAFT SUPER STORE IS THE WORST PLACE YOU COULD EVER BUY AXLES FROM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

if you want to throw money away rather than giving it to them just send it to me or throw it in the fire!!   felix is a dumb ass and a flat out liar who will be beaten over the head some day with a pair of his broken drive shafts. do a search online and you see there are plenty of guys that have been scammed by that made in china place!!

read this  http://www.dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=31.15

[fabr]

What are you trying to say,ds? Tell us how you really feel without the sugar coating.

[Hollywood]

I did read some post on how people ended up spending twice the money because they had to buy 2 sets of drive shafts.

I guess I'll stick with Rockford if I have to get any parts.

DSRace, did you take a look at the links I posted? Are those the parts your talking about?

If so then The only part I'd have to fab myself is a flange to weld to the inner 930 CV joint and to weld a 1310 yoke to.
So far, I have only read about guys using late model Front 4x Toyota Driveshafts for axles and having them cut to size.
 
So Im thinking thats my best bet. From gear box outwards:
930 Inner joint with flange and welded 1310 Yoke
Toyota driveshaft cut to length
Dana 30 Axle stub from XJ/YJ
97 Cherokee XJ bearing hub

How does that sound?